Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Hinging ailerons and some glassing was the order of the day.
I tried a new method for positioning the hinges and did an experement as well.
1- find C/L of aileron and mark where hinges are to go. (4 off)
2- nice and sqare push a 'T' pin into each marking leaving a small hole
3- cut off 'T' part of four pins and insert into holes pointy end out
4- position/certer aileron where you want it and seat lightly pushing pins into wing
5- wing is now marked
6- I use my Dremel tool with the sharp point cutter to make perfect holes
7- next is Dremel rounded end cutter that happens to be just under size. Perfect

I am using the Robart hinge sleeves as they will give me the stand-off offset required for this set up and I will be able to remove the ailerons as well.
I dimpled under each grub screw to ensure they will not come out and not have to tighten the screw up so tight that I would strip the thread.

Now, the hinge horn actually going into the aileron will be just seated into foam. This does not seem like the perfect situation so something had to be done. Guys in this thread have extended the horn with brass tube and others have cut in and added balsa or hard wood to seat them in. Me being lazy decided to try an experement of Gorilla glue straight into some foam so I got some scrap and a hinge and stuck it in. I oiled the hinge so it would not bind and let it dry. Well let me tell you,,, I still have not pulled that hinge out of the foam. I actually pulled off a sleeve that was tight on the outer horn. (not dimpled) I am guessing ten or so kilograms of pull. Now times that by four and you have twenty kgs of pull to remove that aileron from the wing. I might just stick em' in.

Just before knock-off I glassed inside the wheel wells with 2oz cloth, glassed inside the fuselage to cover the holes where I removed the kit rudder pushrod exits and glued in the servo/tank tray mounts. All good.

Cheers,

Brad

DDayWarbird

My Feedback: (5)

Hello,

I am installing the landing gear.

?? QUESTION ?? Are the KNUCKLES on the landing gear aft or forwards ???

Regarding the landing gear mounts and mounting.

The other pilots flying the Spitfires are adding an extra mounting plate of plywood to the aft rail. This will cant the landing gear further forward when in the down position and decrease the tendency for nose overs.

?? QUESTION ?? # 2 Does any one have their tail wheel mounted. Can you post a bunch of pictures ... Thanks.

Thanks

Dr. Bill

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Scissors go forward on the Spit Bill.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, check out post # 319 on page 13 for my tail wheel mounting so far.
I have got it sorted but not fixed in yet.

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
My tail wheel is now in. Here are a couple of pictures for you.
When it is drying make sure it is nice and straight when retracted as well.
I am going to make a scale tail wheel fork as I think this is a must for this aircraft.

Cheers,

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Continuing with the wing, today I made new and longer rear spar plates and cut further into the center section of the wing. I glued the new spars in with Gorilla Glue and now I will be able to pick up both forward and rear spars when I laminate a piece of ply next to the existing U/C rib to give it added strength. The length of the kit supplied rear spar was just not enough to catch it.
Next is mount the flap servos and then I can join the wing sections. Hopefully this will happen tomorrow. Then I will be able to modify the flaps, adding the inboard sections and cut out for and build in the U/C doubler.

Cheers,

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Pretty much the last thing I want to do before joining the wing is to mount the flap servos and this was done today by gluing in a floor, side walls and front and back walls/servo rails into the kit cut-out location. I was toying with the idea of mounting the servo on its side but decided I was too lazy.[&o] I will hide the servo a bit by adding some mesh to the front of the radiator. (set back of course).

Cheers,

Brad

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Brad,

As you requested via a PM here are some details on what I did on flaps. I created two inboard flap sections that are scale. They are slaved to the main flap section by some plywood tabs I made on the lower edge. It has worked very good. You have to capture them this way because they spread apart as they are lowered. You will also see that I moved my wing mounting bolts and hid them under the inboard flaps.

Regarding gear angle, yes I did cant them forward. The axle is about 1/2 inch forward from the kit location. This significantly reduces nose overs. It is almost un-flyable with the gear in the kit location. Noses over all the time. This fixes it. Leo

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Thats cool Leo, I see youve used Robart hinges and the stock way making the flaps. I am going to do a bit of a mod on my flaps and (semi)scale them a bit.
The rearward facing control horn is a good idea. The inboard flap actuation is simular to what I had in mind although I was going to try have it internal.
Ok,,, 1/2 in inch on the U/C. sounds good. I fly off grass and some times it is a bit long and I dont want nose overs if at all possible.

Cheers Mate and I hope you dont mind the direct PM questioning approch.

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Truly a great day!!! Australia Day[sm=thumbs_up.gif] and the wings of the Spitfire are joined!!!!
After setting up and marking out on the work bench I did a dry run and confirmed all was ok.
I used Gorilla glue and took my time, trying not to make a mess or panic.[sm=bananahead.gif]
All good.

After filling the wing tips the other day all looked ok there too but looking at them today the foam had expanded even more and was really hard in places. Not like most of the foam. I noticed when I filled them (1/3-1/2 full) that there was some lack of mixed content and it looked a bit like oil. Well this is the stuff that took all this time to expand and went rock hard. It took me half an hour to remove all the foam and get the tips back into shape. Now I will make a couple of ribs and insert them before glueing the wing tips on.

Cheers,

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Here is a link to a Yellow Spitty with the Saito 36cc petrol. (One for Marty at Jetfx) Looks like it goes quite well although I think it may have been a little tail heavy.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=0K2Z1si9GAo

Only the rocker covers would stick out of the cowl. Now I would still like to see the Spitfire powered with a ZDZ 40. That would be a nice combination I reckon.

Cheers,

Brad

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Leo S. powered his Spit with the ZDZ 40 at first. I believe he flew it that way for several years until he upgraded to a 50cc engine. You might ask him how he liked it.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I'm planning on a DL50 in mine. From the sounds of it, he didnt have any problems with prop clearance. I have that issue on a GP Yak right now, aggrivating.
Edwin

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

I flew my silver YA MKXIV for 3 years on a ZDZ 40. It was an OK combination. Turned a MENZ 20 X 10. Something strange was going on with that engine related to the heavy spinner backplate. I don't think it could handle it. After 150 flights it wore out the crank passing through the front bearing. It didn't wear out the bearing, it actually wore out the crank. Same thing happened on my son's Spit powered by a ZDZ 40 at around 150 flights. So it was repeatable failure. We switched to DA-50's and got about a 10% power boost which was nice. Turned a MENZ 21 X 10. This was not without trouble though. I am running a 1.25" extension which voids your warranty and after 25 flights it will blow out the crankcase gasket. Did it to me twice. The fix is that you have to change the crankase bolts from the anodized aluminum they provide to steel when you get the engine. So far that seems to work. Leo

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Leo thanks! (pats myself on the back for having such a good memory!lol)

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
How did you go with your tail wheel install? I hope the pictures helped.

Brad

DDayWarbird

My Feedback: (5)

Here is the plane.

Getting pretty close to the finish.

Got the wing finished, tail finished, gear mounted and canted forward.

ALL servos installed and working, air working, engine mounted.

Just have to finish the spinner, and paint on the Luster Coat Clear Flat, and put the pilot in.

So maybe another 20 weekends. hee hee hee.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Brad, I built my YA Spit years ago using the standard supplied tail wheel set up. It works very well.

Bill in Tx.. what color is that on your Spit? Not the gray but the other color lol.

DDayWarbird

My Feedback: (5)

Krylon Primer Gray

Krylon Camouflage Brown

Under-body Krylon Ivory Satin

All are very fuel resistant.

The brown kind-of shows up as a red rust color on the site.

These colors are based on a Spitfire in a museum in Texas. And there are a few others around painted gray and brown.

I had considered Olive Green but there are so many out there with the green.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Like this one!![sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Brad

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Good to hear the tail wheel set up works well Bob. Sorry I was meant to reply to Bill about the pictures of the set up.
(I have edited the post to read 'Bill')

Cheers,

Brad

DDayWarbird

My Feedback: (5)

So I built this YA Spit without any instructions. I just looked at the pictures here and fitted things together.

But I now need the CG [ center of gravity ] on the wing.

Can someone post it for me.

Thanks

Dr. Bill

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
As quoted in the instructions,, 5 1/2 to 5 3/4" back at the root.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Cheers,

Brad

TommyWatson

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Marty,

I had a Yellow Spitfire a few years ago and I got a Keleo exhaust made. Wanye Dand also had one made. It had 12 exhausts that all connected to the exhaust.
I am sure keleo still has the jigs to make another.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

WOW Tom,
That looks great man!!! How did it go? Have you still got the model?
That looks like a 3W as well, just like mine.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Looks like I will have to email Keleo.

Cheers,

Brad