The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
02-08-2009, 09:29 AM
#426
RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
i agree with what you say ,but as far as the color issue , i'm talking main stream products. for the greenish glass work you should only have fiberglass resin AKA "polyester resin " used during construction and the lighter tan-whiteish glass work should use something like epoxy or hysol for construction. if a manufacture decides to use some other materials then they should offer solutions to bonding agents i think that should cover it all. thanks for the info. WB_1
02-08-2009, 09:35 AM
#427
RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: DaddySam
I would think, since we balance our planes with the tank empty, that if we then place the tank forward of the cg, fill it with 24 oz of fuel, that would increase the nose over tendency. Putting the tank on the CG would, when full, not change the CG. I think it's a good idea. However, I've yet to see any Spitfire kit that does not need the gear either moved or canted forward. I have not built the BT version, but I have heard that the MK9, built as per the plans, does not have the nose over problem.
Sam
I would think, since we balance our planes with the tank empty, that if we then place the tank forward of the cg, fill it with 24 oz of fuel, that would increase the nose over tendency. Putting the tank on the CG would, when full, not change the CG. I think it's a good idea. However, I've yet to see any Spitfire kit that does not need the gear either moved or canted forward. I have not built the BT version, but I have heard that the MK9, built as per the plans, does not have the nose over problem.
Sam
02-08-2009, 10:58 AM
#428
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Just use WEST Systems. It sticks to anything everything. I have been "gluing" to polyester resin using WEST Systems for years.
You just cannot get any better than this product. I have yet to have a bonding failure. As with ANY product you will need to remove the mold release agent with acetone or such solvent, and scratch the surface. On the inside of the fuse this is not a problem.
The day I have a failure with WEST Systems I will send all of you a personal email to announce this to everyone.
West Systems is expensive. About $100 US dollars for a gallon, and the hardener is about $30. But in all probably cheaper by volume than buying 10 sets of the six ounce sets.
The reason so many items are built with polyester is that it is so inexpensive.
I seek a NO failure policy. Thus if I am going to bond a one inch square piece of wood to the inner fuselage I will coat the fuselage with about 3 square inches of 6 ounce cloth and then bond to this. Thus regardless of what you use for a bonding agent, the surface area of adhesion is much greater than the 1 square inch of wood.
On my YA Spit I used WEST Systems to mount the servo tray for the elevator and rudder, the air tank, the throttle servo, the gear servo and valve, and bonded the horizontal stab to the fuse, the sevo mounts for the ailerons, and flap servos, glued the wing tips on with WEST, mated the wings together with WEST. Used WEST to coat the gear wells, and aileron and flap wells. Glued in the modification for the gear rails with Gorilla Glue. Glued the lead in the nose with WEST. Mounted my secondary forward firewall with WEST, etc... The list goes on. I did use polyester to put the glass on the wings. Then any fairing was with WEST and microlight balloons etc ...
But anyways, everyone has his favorite. Brad and I have mentioned ours.
You just cannot get any better than this product. I have yet to have a bonding failure. As with ANY product you will need to remove the mold release agent with acetone or such solvent, and scratch the surface. On the inside of the fuse this is not a problem.
The day I have a failure with WEST Systems I will send all of you a personal email to announce this to everyone.
West Systems is expensive. About $100 US dollars for a gallon, and the hardener is about $30. But in all probably cheaper by volume than buying 10 sets of the six ounce sets.
The reason so many items are built with polyester is that it is so inexpensive.
I seek a NO failure policy. Thus if I am going to bond a one inch square piece of wood to the inner fuselage I will coat the fuselage with about 3 square inches of 6 ounce cloth and then bond to this. Thus regardless of what you use for a bonding agent, the surface area of adhesion is much greater than the 1 square inch of wood.
On my YA Spit I used WEST Systems to mount the servo tray for the elevator and rudder, the air tank, the throttle servo, the gear servo and valve, and bonded the horizontal stab to the fuse, the sevo mounts for the ailerons, and flap servos, glued the wing tips on with WEST, mated the wings together with WEST. Used WEST to coat the gear wells, and aileron and flap wells. Glued in the modification for the gear rails with Gorilla Glue. Glued the lead in the nose with WEST. Mounted my secondary forward firewall with WEST, etc... The list goes on. I did use polyester to put the glass on the wings. Then any fairing was with WEST and microlight balloons etc ...
But anyways, everyone has his favorite. Brad and I have mentioned ours.
02-08-2009, 11:53 AM
#429
RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Hi Guys,
Just came across this thread...interesting stuff. Gotta get my yellow spit out of the box soon!
FYI hysol 9462 is an epoxy resin based adhesive. No matter what sort of adhesive you are using, you need to prep the surface with prepsol or similar wax remover and roughen it thoroughly. Polyester resin leaves a wax residue on its surface when it cures, so even the inner aspect which is a non-moulded surface will have this residue which needs to be removed.
Keep up the great work on this thread.
Craig.
Just came across this thread...interesting stuff. Gotta get my yellow spit out of the box soon!
FYI hysol 9462 is an epoxy resin based adhesive. No matter what sort of adhesive you are using, you need to prep the surface with prepsol or similar wax remover and roughen it thoroughly. Polyester resin leaves a wax residue on its surface when it cures, so even the inner aspect which is a non-moulded surface will have this residue which needs to be removed.
Keep up the great work on this thread.
Craig.
02-08-2009, 12:44 PM
#430
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Exactly you are very correct !!, that is why I say, - When you are binding / bonding to polyester, it is just any ole plastic [ or for that matter any cured and dried adhesive ]. It is NOT as though using a polyester resin for adhesion, some way mystically causes the [ polyester that you are bonding to ] to some how magically disovle just a tad little bit and then you obtain better polyester to polyester adhesion - this does NOT occur [ but so many people think that this is exactly what happens ... it does not ]. Some dried epoxies will disolve when you try to use polyester as a bonding agent so watch out. WEST systems will not disolve with any polyesters, nor other epoxies, nor methacrolate. Methacrolate might just be the best advesive of all but depending on what you can find and purchase, if you need some working time then do not use it.
Have fun building.
BTW - WEST will not melt your foam. Just slap it on.
Dr. Bill
Have fun building.
BTW - WEST will not melt your foam. Just slap it on.
Dr. Bill
02-08-2009, 04:39 PM
#431
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
I was happy with the testing I did with West Systems on the scrap part of my fusalage both prepped and unprepped. West Systems bonds well no question and I am using it for internal fit out. The reason I am using the polyester resin to glue the new deck on is because Leo highly suggests this in his instructions and I feel that he is the man who should know as he designed and manufactured the deck and has completed at least three that I know of, flying them for years with no structural ussues (concerning the deck) Basically, I do not know enough about resin technology to argue.
Hysol in Australia is $25 US plus postage. I would like to try some but the cost is too big.
Each to their own guys, I'll listen to, and try anyones 'formula' if there seems to be any merit to it.
Cheers,
Brad
Hysol in Australia is $25 US plus postage. I would like to try some but the cost is too big.
Each to their own guys, I'll listen to, and try anyones 'formula' if there seems to be any merit to it.
Cheers,
Brad
02-13-2009, 09:57 PM
#432
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
I want to start running my engine in and want to have the spinner on to see how it all goes and prove the servicability.
So time to fit the spinner. Here is a pictorial sequence to how I do mine. It has worked out well on both ali and CF spinners and this one looks good too.
Cheers,
Brad
So time to fit the spinner. Here is a pictorial sequence to how I do mine. It has worked out well on both ali and CF spinners and this one looks good too.
Cheers,
Brad
02-13-2009, 10:08 PM
#433
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Has anyone thought about reducing the weight of the spinner backplate?. I have not yet received my new kit but I can remember from the old one that the spinner backplate was very heavy. I thought about mounting the backplate in the lathe and reducing the thickness except around the edges and and of course in the middle where the prop goes.
I am not thinking so much about reducing the total weight of the model, just the rotating mass. My new Spitfire will be electric powered and I was thinking about the gyroscopic load on the bearings. What do you think?.
I am not thinking so much about reducing the total weight of the model, just the rotating mass. My new Spitfire will be electric powered and I was thinking about the gyroscopic load on the bearings. What do you think?.
02-13-2009, 11:06 PM
#434
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Tom, take it to a machine shop and get them to mill 5 or so decent sized holes around a pitch circle in an indexing head. It will be very accurate and still very strong.
Brad.
Brad.
02-13-2009, 11:20 PM
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Hi Brad,
I was thinking the same thing, Most of my big TruTurn spinners have holes in the backplate.
Regards
I was thinking the same thing, Most of my big TruTurn spinners have holes in the backplate.
Regards
02-14-2009, 08:47 AM
#436
RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: TommyWatson
Has anyone thought about reducing the weight of the spinner backplate?. I have not yet received my new kit but I can remember from the old one that the spinner backplate was very heavy. I thought about mounting the backplate in the lathe and reducing the thickness except around the edges and and of course in the middle where the prop goes.
I am not thinking so much about reducing the total weight of the model, just the rotating mass. My new Spitfire will be electric powered and I was thinking about the gyroscopic load on the bearings. What do you think?.
Has anyone thought about reducing the weight of the spinner backplate?. I have not yet received my new kit but I can remember from the old one that the spinner backplate was very heavy. I thought about mounting the backplate in the lathe and reducing the thickness except around the edges and and of course in the middle where the prop goes.
I am not thinking so much about reducing the total weight of the model, just the rotating mass. My new Spitfire will be electric powered and I was thinking about the gyroscopic load on the bearings. What do you think?.
02-14-2009, 11:07 PM
#441
RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
Guys, I tried a search for thsi information first, but had no luck. I need to know the recommended center of gravity and flight control surface throws for the Yellow Aircraft Spitfire that I am refurbishing. Thanks!
02-15-2009, 12:39 AM
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: F-15J_JSDF
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Brad
02-15-2009, 01:12 AM
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: Brad330l
I know of a 96". You could clip the wings!!!!
Brad
ORIGINAL: F-15J_JSDF
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Brad
No that sounds Good .. 96" I am fine .. Link Please if possible.
02-15-2009, 03:45 AM
#444
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: F-15J_JSDF
PMSL ... Funnny Man.
No that sounds Good .. 96" I am fine .. Link Please if possible.
ORIGINAL: Brad330l
I know of a 96". You could clip the wings!!!!
Brad
ORIGINAL: F-15J_JSDF
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Anyone making a 92" Spit ??
Brad
No that sounds Good .. 96" I am fine .. Link Please if possible.
http://www.modeldesign.com.au/detail...t=models&id=13
Cheers,
Brad
02-15-2009, 03:51 AM
#445
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: Mud Duck
Guys, I tried a search for thsi information first, but had no luck. I need to know the recommended center of gravity and flight control surface throws for the Yellow Aircraft Spitfire that I am refurbishing. Thanks!
Guys, I tried a search for thsi information first, but had no luck. I need to know the recommended center of gravity and flight control surface throws for the Yellow Aircraft Spitfire that I am refurbishing. Thanks!
The instruction booklet says,
CoG- 5 1/2 to 5 3/4" behind the leading edge at the root of the wing.
Ailerons- 7/8" up/down
Elevator- 1 1/8" up/down
Rudder- 2" left/right
Flaps- 85 degrees full throw.
Brad
02-15-2009, 05:10 AM
#447
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: F-15J_JSDF
The wing are they glasses or what?
I like it what is the Shipping to Nippon??
The wing are they glasses or what?
I like it what is the Shipping to Nippon??
http://www.modeldesign.com.au/contact.asp
The retractable gear is avaliable for it too.
The wing is balsa over foam that you can glasses yes.
Brad
02-16-2009, 10:42 AM
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: Bill Chambers
Just use WEST Systems. It sticks to anything everything. I have been "gluing" to polyester resin using WEST Systems for years.
You just cannot get any better than this product. I have yet to have a bonding failure. As with ANY product you will need to remove the mold release agent with acetone or such solvent, and scratch the surface. On the inside of the fuse this is not a problem.
The day I have a failure with WEST Systems I will send all of you a personal email to announce this to everyone.
West Systems is expensive. About $100 US dollars for a gallon, and the hardener is about $30. But in all probably cheaper by volume than buying 10 sets of the six ounce sets.
The reason so many items are built with polyester is that it is so inexpensive.
I seek a NO failure policy. Thus if I am going to bond a one inch square piece of wood to the inner fuselage I will coat the fuselage with about 3 square inches of 6 ounce cloth and then bond to this. Thus regardless of what you use for a bonding agent, the surface area of adhesion is much greater than the 1 square inch of wood.
On my YA Spit I used WEST Systems to mount the servo tray for the elevator and rudder, the air tank, the throttle servo, the gear servo and valve, and bonded the horizontal stab to the fuse, the sevo mounts for the ailerons, and flap servos, glued the wing tips on with WEST, mated the wings together with WEST. Used WEST to coat the gear wells, and aileron and flap wells. Glued in the modification for the gear rails with Gorilla Glue. Glued the lead in the nose with WEST. Mounted my secondary forward firewall with WEST, etc... The list goes on. I did use polyester to put the glass on the wings. Then any fairing was with WEST and microlight balloons etc ...
But anyways, everyone has his favorite. Brad and I have mentioned ours.
Just use WEST Systems. It sticks to anything everything. I have been "gluing" to polyester resin using WEST Systems for years.
You just cannot get any better than this product. I have yet to have a bonding failure. As with ANY product you will need to remove the mold release agent with acetone or such solvent, and scratch the surface. On the inside of the fuse this is not a problem.
The day I have a failure with WEST Systems I will send all of you a personal email to announce this to everyone.
West Systems is expensive. About $100 US dollars for a gallon, and the hardener is about $30. But in all probably cheaper by volume than buying 10 sets of the six ounce sets.
The reason so many items are built with polyester is that it is so inexpensive.
I seek a NO failure policy. Thus if I am going to bond a one inch square piece of wood to the inner fuselage I will coat the fuselage with about 3 square inches of 6 ounce cloth and then bond to this. Thus regardless of what you use for a bonding agent, the surface area of adhesion is much greater than the 1 square inch of wood.
On my YA Spit I used WEST Systems to mount the servo tray for the elevator and rudder, the air tank, the throttle servo, the gear servo and valve, and bonded the horizontal stab to the fuse, the sevo mounts for the ailerons, and flap servos, glued the wing tips on with WEST, mated the wings together with WEST. Used WEST to coat the gear wells, and aileron and flap wells. Glued in the modification for the gear rails with Gorilla Glue. Glued the lead in the nose with WEST. Mounted my secondary forward firewall with WEST, etc... The list goes on. I did use polyester to put the glass on the wings. Then any fairing was with WEST and microlight balloons etc ...
But anyways, everyone has his favorite. Brad and I have mentioned ours.
Bill
02-16-2009, 10:46 AM
#450
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RE: The complete YELLOW AIRCRAFT SPITFIRE thread.
ORIGINAL: Brad330l
I want to start running my engine in and want to have the spinner on to see how it all goes and prove the servicability.
So time to fit the spinner. Here is a pictorial sequence to how I do mine. It has worked out well on both ali and CF spinners and this one looks good too.
Cheers,
Brad
I want to start running my engine in and want to have the spinner on to see how it all goes and prove the servicability.
So time to fit the spinner. Here is a pictorial sequence to how I do mine. It has worked out well on both ali and CF spinners and this one looks good too.
Cheers,
Brad
Now that's thinkin'.
Bill