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Old 12-03-2017, 07:23 AM
  #1951  
BobH
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Any one have a lead on a canopy? Like Leo I'm going to buy my old one back. The problem is that the original canopy got damaged.
if I can't find one the maybe I can buy a conversion-from Leo and go to the bubble version.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:52 AM
  #1952  
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Originally Posted by BobH View Post
Any one have a lead on a canopy? Like Leo I'm going to buy my old one back. The problem is that the original canopy got damaged.
if I can't find one the maybe I can buy a conversion-from Leo and go to the bubble version.
Would a pica one fit "Hi
I re-manufacture the Pica canopy. Contact me at scaledynamics@yahoo.com..."

or this pica one at Pica Spitfire canopy [C-399] - $18.00 : Park Flyer Plastics, Official Website of ParkFlyer Plastics Hobby Accessories ? Texas, USA

or would a Brian Taylor one from Vic's rc VicRC.com - Spitfire Product

cheers - ken
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:25 AM
  #1953  
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Pica might fit? Brian Taylor spit is a tad smaller at 83 inches so that might not fit.
I don't have the plane back yet so I'll have to wait till I get it to determine the damage and the canopy size.
thank you.
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:44 AM
  #1954  
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Hi

Isn't the Fokke RC canopy a drop-in?
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:22 AM
  #1955  
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Shaun,
I thought about theirs but I don't know. Maybe I'll email him and ask.
Thank you.
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:07 PM
  #1956  
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I emailed Fokkerc.com. He said his canopy is the same size but that's all he knows.
It's $40 delivered. Not bad.
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:35 PM
  #1957  
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there is a guy selling yellow Spit canopies on the forum for sale. Hes from CA and I got one for $40 and it came two days later
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:22 PM
  #1958  
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kenair? Is that him?
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:16 AM
  #1959  
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not sure but hes also pulling canopies for the Pica Spit and some of the older kits
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:20 AM
  #1960  
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Probuilder from Acadia CA
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:33 AM
  #1961  
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Originally Posted by BobH View Post
Any one have a lead on a canopy? Like Leo I'm going to buy my old one back. The problem is that the original canopy got damaged.
if I can't find one the maybe I can buy a conversion-from Leo and go to the bubble version.
A fellow is selling Canopies on Ebay. Price is good.
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:28 AM
  #1962  
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I bought some plaster of paris years ago to see if it was useful to pull a plug off a kit canopy. Has anyone ever tried this? I have an original YA canopy to test it on. It will surely cast the surface, but I don't know what the porosity or surface quality will be and if the melted plastic of vac forming will stick to it or get cloudy from it. I have always used expensive casting epoxies for this purpose and I'm not motivated to spend the money in this case for a kit that no longer exists. I may give this plaster a go. I have everything else such as vac former and plastic. Leo
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Old 12-05-2017, 05:24 AM
  #1963  
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Is would get me some hydro cal plaster. The model rail road guys use it and it's inexpensive and dense. I would think that stuff would work well. Of course you have to wax it or use some release too.
An old trick is to put a thin piece of abs etc first and then pull the canopy and that over the mold. That way you have a very smooth part.
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:18 AM
  #1964  
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The plaster will work fine Leo and will not harm the original canopy at all. I think it will provide you with a smooth enough surface to get an acceptably clear pull over it. In all honesty though I don't recall if I ever attempted it over the raw plaster or not. I have always pulled a thin styrene layer over it first. Once you have the plaster mold I do not recommend that you attempt to sand it for any reason. It will have a thin outer skin that forms the smooth shell and once you break through it there is no getting it back. My .02 cents anyway.
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Old 12-15-2017, 02:26 AM
  #1965  
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Here is my old Spit getting ready for more hours in the air after crashing some 10 years ago :-( The thread before the link to the elevator broke because of vibrations I guess. So this timeI have the elevator servo in the tail . Even harder to get i balanced with the leight AGM 30cc :-) Last time it flew was with a Supertigre 3250 and tunedpipe so i dont expect much vertical with the AGM and cannister. Its a tight fit and cooling for the engine is allways a challenge with these ww II planes.
I work weeery slow but it wil fly this winter i guess :-)
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:17 AM
  #1966  
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Originally Posted by ela View Post
Here is my old Spit getting ready for more hours in the air after crashing some 10 years ago :-( The thread before the link to the elevator broke because of vibrations I guess. So this timeI have the elevator servo in the tail . Even harder to get i balanced with the leight AGM 30cc :-) Last time it flew was with a Supertigre 3250 and tunedpipe so i dont expect much vertical with the AGM and cannister. Its a tight fit and cooling for the engine is allways a challenge with these ww II planes.
I work weeery slow but it wil fly this winter i guess :-)
Nice looking Spitfire, let us know in the spring how the flights go.
cheers - ken
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:14 PM
  #1967  
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YA Spitfire flyers - need your help on this. This summer I noticed the wing skin "bubbling" or "pushing up" at the joint where the left wing panel meets the center section, the pics show it some. The bubbling starts 7" back from the LE and is 8" long and is about 1/8" to 3/16" wide.. I can feel a hint of flex ever so slightly when I hold down the center section and try lift the left wing panel up and down. The wing panel were glued to gether with 30 min. epoxy, finish is 3/4 oz glass goth with Zpoxy, painted with latex. I have not taked on the left "radiator" to see if they are any signs of flex movement on the wing skin on the bottom of the joint, before and aft of the radiator there is no sign of skin distortion. The right wing joint shows no issues.

I did use a strip of 2 oz glass cloth on the joints on the bottom - can't remember what I did tot he top of the joint.

I have also done the additional front plywood brace mod.

Your opinions please?

cheers - ken
Iam wondering is this flex is normal or am I headed to a left wing fold up sittuation. The model first flew in August 2012 si I estimate ~ 100 flight on it.

Has anyone else seen this skin distortion on a wing joint on their YA Sptifre wing?
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Old 02-03-2018, 05:45 PM
  #1968  
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I had a similar problem with my YA spit. I glassed etc the wing pretty much as you did. The sun would cause bubbling of the fiber glass. I tried to repair it but i fear it needs to be scrubbed and re-glassed.
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Old 02-06-2018, 10:27 AM
  #1969  
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Kenair, I think your dealing with a compression buckle of the upper skin. Several causes. First is that the dark olive drab in this location is likely getting hot in the sun which can soften epoxy glass to nearly half it's original strength (ballpark) Second the really small spar joiner in the aft portion of the wing which looks to be original YA stock design is giving way as they do. Look at how it stops near the front where the long spar was installed. I would wager that you have really pulled some high G's in warm weather or had a hard port wing tip strike that has contributed to the buckling.

I have seen YA wings constructed with the standard short spars completely fail after a few years use. It is a weak wing as designed. Yours has likely only survived because of your long spar installation at the front. It is just not enough over time to resist the fatigue of the balsa and foam.

An Idea, weigh the wing down on the top to pull the skin out at the joint, get an iron hot and try to flatten down the buckle, "Iron it out", the epoxy will soften when heated. Let it cool and then inject epoxy into the wing all along the location with needle and syringe.

Finally stop pulling so hard in those turns!!! I know it's fun, but it could be life or death for this Spitty.

Leo Spychalla

Last edited by Spychalla Aircraft; 02-06-2018 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Added thought
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:25 AM
  #1970  
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Hi. Anyone having doubts with using nylonbolts for securing the wing? Don't remember what it came with originally. Nylonbolts advantage si that they don't vibrate and comes out easily in my opinion.
Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2018, 04:27 AM
  #1971  
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Originally Posted by ela View Post
Hi. Anyone having doubts with using nylonbolts for securing the wing? Don't remember what it came with originally. Nylonbolts advantage si that they don't vibrate and comes out easily in my opinion.
Thanks.
I've been using nylon bolts since day 1 with no issues with many flights.
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:19 AM
  #1972  
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Originally Posted by kenair View Post
YA Spitfire flyers - need your help on this. This summer I noticed the wing skin "bubbling" or "pushing up" at the joint where the left wing panel meets the center section, the pics show it some. The bubbling starts 7" back from the LE and is 8" long and is about 1/8" to 3/16" wide.. I can feel a hint of flex ever so slightly when I hold down the center section and try lift the left wing panel up and down. The wing panel were glued to gether with 30 min. epoxy, finish is 3/4 oz glass goth with Zpoxy, painted with latex. I have not taked on the left "radiator" to see if they are any signs of flex movement on the wing skin on the bottom of the joint, before and aft of the radiator there is no sign of skin distortion. The right wing joint shows no issues.

I did use a strip of 2 oz glass cloth on the joints on the bottom - can't remember what I did tot he top of the joint.

I have also done the additional front plywood brace mod.

Your opinions please?

cheers - ken
Iam wondering is this flex is normal or am I headed to a left wing fold up sittuation. The model first flew in August 2012 si I estimate ~ 100 flight on it.

Has anyone else seen this skin distortion on a wing joint on their YA Sptifre wing?
Thank-you for your advice on the wing joint bubbles. I took off the rad scoops and glued in a 1/4" plywood dihederal brace (weighed 3 oz) , using polyurethane glue. I covered the brace with electrical tape, wax paper and flat weights for 36 hours, the polyu glue turned out good
. I'll fill it , sand it smooth and epoxy in a 2 or 4oz cloth strip over the brace and sand it smooth & paint.
cheers - ken

Last edited by kenair; 03-21-2018 at 07:23 AM.
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