A6M5 Zero
#2
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RE: A6M5 Zero
Can't comment on the flying qualities of different kits, but I have a fiberglass fuse, cowl, canopy, wing rib set and plans for a Ziroli Zero that I will part with for a good price, should you decide to go that route. If you have any interest I can be reached direclty at [email protected] .
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RE: A6M5 Zero
I have the Platt Zero which is a bit short for IMAA. The wings could be changed for a type 21 and be legal. I would use Shindin or Sierra Preision for gear. It looks great and is light. IMHO much better than an ARF. The Yellow is much heavier but a nice model and legal. The Platt is a very adgile flyier at 18 pounds.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
The World Model Zero GS is definately the easiest to fly. With a retract and mount upgrade, this plane will last for years and is very docile on landings. The CMP Zero is also a good one too, but needs a lot of strenghtening around the formers as the fiberglass fuse is thin. Even though it weighs more (approx. 3 lbs) than the World Models, it seems to fly just as easy. Here is the CMP in back. The World Models in front. Both are ARFS but the weathering you have to do yourself. Paul
#8
RE: A6M5 Zero
They both look very nice Paul. I am thinking of putting a 160 twin in the model, any comments on that?
I am used to using YT/KMP kits (Stuka/Mustang etc) but having a brief look at the Zero last night it does look a very good kit, I may mod the elevator linkage though, if one of those grub screws came loose!!! Also fancy air retracts so will mod the bearers as per your suggestion.
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated,
Gary.
I am used to using YT/KMP kits (Stuka/Mustang etc) but having a brief look at the Zero last night it does look a very good kit, I may mod the elevator linkage though, if one of those grub screws came loose!!! Also fancy air retracts so will mod the bearers as per your suggestion.
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated,
Gary.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
If you are going to use the OS 160, use the supplied elevator setup. It works good with a strong reliable servo. Just use a good threadlocking compound on the screws. Keep as much weight in front of the cg as you can. Don't be surprised if you need to add as much a 3 lbs. additional nose weight. I'm running a 44cc gas engine and added 1 3/4 lbs to the nose to balance. Pictures of the retract modification. This is a must if you plan to fly this bird often! Paul
#10
RE: A6M5 Zero
http://www.nitroplanes.com/cmpzefi80arf.html
beautyfull flying plane couldnt ask for a better deal just a little bashing for the air gear and that about it..
beautyfull flying plane couldnt ask for a better deal just a little bashing for the air gear and that about it..
#11
RE: A6M5 Zero
Thanks a lot for the pics Paul, very helpful. If I need that much weight up front I may be able to achieve a long standing ambition, how does a 5 cylinder radial sound? I'll have to do some calcs on weight to see how it works out.
One of my Warbirds attached, YT/KMP, also Chippy with twin, it's an SC by the way, used yesterday to pass B exam.
Thanks again, Gary.
One of my Warbirds attached, YT/KMP, also Chippy with twin, it's an SC by the way, used yesterday to pass B exam.
Thanks again, Gary.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
Hi! Sorry but a O.S or Saito 5 cylinder doesent fit unless you make a larger cowl [sm=red_smile.gif].Remeber I tried to fit one in but it was a little bit to large..Otherwise it would have been perfect,the aircraft needs som weight up front [sm=biggrin.gif].
About the elevator,the linkage that TWM includes worked perfect for me,putting a servo in the rear is not a good idea,I agree with Paul.. I used air retracts and a little bit of epoxi in the wing doesent hurt,it`s a little bit weak there..
So i tried with a saito 170 instead and though the power might be too little for some I liked it!
http://www.junkshop.nu/flyg/bokis_20070910/zero_big.wmv
Its a video with my TWM Zero (30 meg).. I`ll hope You will enjoy it!
//Bokis
About the elevator,the linkage that TWM includes worked perfect for me,putting a servo in the rear is not a good idea,I agree with Paul.. I used air retracts and a little bit of epoxi in the wing doesent hurt,it`s a little bit weak there..
So i tried with a saito 170 instead and though the power might be too little for some I liked it!
http://www.junkshop.nu/flyg/bokis_20070910/zero_big.wmv
Its a video with my TWM Zero (30 meg).. I`ll hope You will enjoy it!
//Bokis
#13
RE: A6M5 Zero
Hello Bokis, thanks for your input. I was going to take my time with this one but seeing your vid has got me itching to fly it, also Paul's weathering is impressive.
The vid sounds like a multi, I take it the 170 is a 3 cyl yes? If so does the cowl go on ok?
Gary.
The vid sounds like a multi, I take it the 170 is a 3 cyl yes? If so does the cowl go on ok?
Gary.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
That correct! Sorry,forgot to say that it´s a saito radial.. Glow and reciever battery mounted on the "engine box" and a little bit of led..
As Paul said,it`s a very nice warbird to fly,no bad habits at all..
Good luck!
//Bokis
As Paul said,it`s a very nice warbird to fly,no bad habits at all..
Good luck!
//Bokis
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RE: A6M5 Zero
i see a World Models 80" Zero mentioned, i have just bought one of these at a silly low price, with a electronic ignition Zenoah 45, is there anything i should know about them? anything need beefing up? or is it ready to go as it is,
thanks for any views given
thanks for any views given
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RE: A6M5 Zero
Bokis, the Zero scoots real well with the Saito 170. I'm impressed! Alanc, the retract mounts are the weak link in this plane. They WILL rip out if you don't beef them up. The mechanical retracts work ok, but do not last long before they become loose and start binding up. The G45 is a perfect engine in either of these Zeros. There are some more pictures of my WM Zero in my gallery. Paul
#17
RE: A6M5 Zero
Hi Alan, Did you see the kit at the Swapmeet at the Nats, I picked it up for £200 brand new, couldn't resist it!
Dare not tell Wilson though! Gary, Scancom Radio Control, Corby.
Dare not tell Wilson though! Gary, Scancom Radio Control, Corby.
#19
RE: A6M5 Zero
Wow, that was a bargain, was it built?[>:] Need to talk to you sometime about a trade account, I have orders already for two Hurrie's.
I gave Wils a bus card at the Nats, Regards, Gary.
I gave Wils a bus card at the Nats, Regards, Gary.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
yes it was, and weathered, plus all servos, just have to change a few things, and its flying, PM me please for the other stuff, i dont want the thread to go off at a tangent
#21
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RE: A6M5 Zero
Anyone know anything about how Ultra RC 92" Zero flies? It is the same Zero that Troy Built is now importing. I have had one in the Rafters for 2 years and just started working on it. I changed some items to help with the cg and I am now ready to fly. It is 28 lbs with the old 3w 60. It took 3 lbs of lead to balance, plus the batteries are at the front of the cowl.
If someone spent some time detailing this plane it could look great. I didn't, I just want to fly.
If someone spent some time detailing this plane it could look great. I didn't, I just want to fly.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
ORIGINAL: Meschmidt
The World Model Zero GS is definately the easiest to fly. With a retract and mount upgrade, this plane will last for years and is very docile on landings. The CMP Zero is also a good one too, but needs a lot of strenghtening around the formers as the fiberglass fuse is thin. Even though it weighs more (approx. 3 lbs) than the World Models, it seems to fly just as easy. Here is the CMP in back. The World Models in front. Both are ARFS but the weathering you have to do yourself. Paul
The World Model Zero GS is definately the easiest to fly. With a retract and mount upgrade, this plane will last for years and is very docile on landings. The CMP Zero is also a good one too, but needs a lot of strenghtening around the formers as the fiberglass fuse is thin. Even though it weighs more (approx. 3 lbs) than the World Models, it seems to fly just as easy. Here is the CMP in back. The World Models in front. Both are ARFS but the weathering you have to do yourself. Paul
Paul,
What Motor are you using in the World Models Zero, I am looking at buying one and have seen a few You Tube, some of them the motor is sticking out the bottow cowling and looks cheap and nasty and some you can not see the motor.
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RE: A6M5 Zero
I'm running a BME 2.7 (44cc) gas. I don't have a picture of it with the cowling off at this time. A G45 should look about the same as mine as far as the cowling goes and should not need any extra weight added to the nose. Also cut the exhaust pipes as soon as it exits the cowl. The pipes sticking out looks tacky too. Nothing you can do about the spark plug wire. Paul
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RE: A6M5 Zero
Thanks for that information, I will have a look in to that motor, heard of a few Zero flying with 4 cyl Nitro .. and they sound pretty good
#25
RE: A6M5 Zero
Hi Bokis, your vid did it for me, I have a 170 on it's way from sunny USA. Any tips you can give me/us fitting this engine, any mods required?
After having looked closely at the evevator linkage I retract my previous comments, I didn't realise it had a "D" section on the main support rod, that aleviates any worries I had and I see why it's ok. Sorry about that!
Made one error, installed front servo mount before installing the tank, now can't get it in! Hey ho.
I am suprised that the 170 had the power but the way yours loops seems fine, thanks again for your advice, Regards, Gary.
p.s. The ally joining clamps for the main wing seem wrong in my kit. Two are ok and line up with the fixing holes but the remaining pair are completely different lengths, can you throw any light on that?
After having looked closely at the evevator linkage I retract my previous comments, I didn't realise it had a "D" section on the main support rod, that aleviates any worries I had and I see why it's ok. Sorry about that!
Made one error, installed front servo mount before installing the tank, now can't get it in! Hey ho.
I am suprised that the 170 had the power but the way yours loops seems fine, thanks again for your advice, Regards, Gary.
p.s. The ally joining clamps for the main wing seem wrong in my kit. Two are ok and line up with the fixing holes but the remaining pair are completely different lengths, can you throw any light on that?