RC Warbirds and Warplanes Discuss rc warbirds and warplanes in this forum.

CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD

Reply

Old 03-17-2018, 12:31 PM
  #2201  
WWIIP38
My Feedback: (41)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 146
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I've had one for several years. Has an OS 1.60FX for power and flys great!
WWIIP38 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2018, 08:52 AM
  #2202  
paladin
My Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vestal, NY
Posts: 2,832
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Well at the end of the flying season I was trying to get the toe-in correct on my me109 CMP, made an adjustment and did not realize it was badly toed in till I got to the field. This plane is one of those born under a dark star, it had a YS-150L for power for the first 5 flights but it never ran well and all 5 flights ended dead stick. So when I switched to electric I had to come up with something to go from mounting rails to motor and what I came up with was poor at best. Balancing the 6+ inch spinner delayed the first electric flight for 2 or 3 years while I upgraded my equipment to handle that size spinner.

So when I got out to the runway and it would not move like I had breaks on it. I realized it was the toe in, the thought crossed my mind I should really pack this back in the car and fix it but it’s a dark star plane and at some point the constant failing has to stop. I even remember adding up the number of times to the field with out flying, and the number of failed flights (30 trips, 9 flights, 5 dead stick landings). So I added full left rudder and it started to turn released it and correct for torque and she was running down the runway. I let it run extra long then rotated. As usual I unloaded the wing and it dropped like a rock. I’m only a foot of the runway so I added some of the E back for the full power landing. I don’t think it hit the runway, but my son and the other onlookers say it did. The retracts where an old set of rhom airs so it it hit they were toast as they were only good for 12# planes and this one is 20#. But it popped back into the air into a wingover to the left and I went into get the nose down and wings level mode. I managed to do so before it landed on the mains hard then skidded to a stop.

So I threw it into a corner and forgot about model planes for 5 months. This weekend I pulled it out and looked it over, the rhom-airs mounting brackets are bent all the war aft and the #2 screw that held them together are broken off at the heads in three places, but the mounts that I had installed and the oleo’s are solid and I did not bust out any of the wing bays with the LG. The motor mount was busted too.

As is usual right after completing the first engine mount I realized the better way to do it so I started that this weekend. Initially I had built a firewall on the engine rails, making the high stress area right where the firewall was attached to the rails and where it broke. This time I plane to mount ply to the back of the annular ring’s inch ply and mount the motor to that. so this weekend turned into finding out what I don’t have. I had to switch from the prop adapter mounted to the front of the can to the one that tightens on to the shaft. The spinner adapter I have for the mounts on the can is M8 x 1.0 and the one that tightens on the shaft is M8 x 1.25, so I ordered that. now I have to find some flat head screws for the annular ring to the ply motor mount.

Joe
paladin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2018, 08:41 AM
  #2203  
Katniss
 
Katniss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 224
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

What I did was simply mount the electric motor with the x-mount to the inside of the firewall nose. When putting the prop shaft adapter on, it made the correct space for the spinner backplate.

I did have to widen the hole where the prop shaft would stick through a little. But this was the easiest method. Of course, the built in wood glow motor mount rails needed to be dremeled wider to fit the drum of the electric motor.
Katniss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 07:52 AM
  #2204  
paladin
My Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vestal, NY
Posts: 2,832
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

yup, that's what im doing, but in order to mount the ys I had to replace the wood rail cause the stock ones were just better than light ply. for what ever reason I put a hole in the annular ring big enough to fit the motor 5065-320 through plus a lot more. so I made a interposer to span that and epoxied in place using the spinner to locate it. when dry I put screws through. walking it out to the garage I have to rest it on its nose and the epoxy broke free and it started to chuck around.

brought it back down to the work shop to find out that the ply in the annular ring stripped out once the epoxy gave out. no problem, so I got some flat head screws and went through from the front so the wood screws are anchored in the maple.

did you have any problems with the annular ring wood giving way and the screws loosening up?

joe
paladin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 08:46 AM
  #2205  
Katniss
 
Katniss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 224
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I didn't have any issues myself with that wood ring in the nose. I did add a bead of epoxy all the way around it internally along with a couple short pieces of square wood dowel rods epoxied to that ring and inside of fuse nose so the ring couldnt somehow vibrate loose from the fiberglass. Additionally, I used t-nuts and socket head cap screws through the 4 x-mount holes ....so sandwiched the very front of the nose fiberglass with the wood ring and x-mount.
Katniss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 12:18 PM
  #2206  
paladin
My Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vestal, NY
Posts: 2,832
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

my screws were short as not to come through the fiberglass, the screws in two spots were close enough to the edge of the ply that it broke apart between the screw and edge . I used wood screws into maple should hold well. if not I will go to blind nuts but that will b a lot of work. I'm tired of this high maintenance plane sucking up all my modeling time, I swear its a foamie in disguise?

Joe
paladin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 12:58 PM
  #2207  
Katniss
 
Katniss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 224
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Basically how I feel about my Top Flite giant spitfire. ..constantly having to work on it
Katniss is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 07:58 AM
  #2208  
paladin
My Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Vestal, NY
Posts: 2,832
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I filleted all the wood I added with epoxy and rerouted all the wires and buttoned up the nose. then removed the air tank and filler valve (good filler valves are getting hard to come by now that spring air is defunked.

Joe
paladin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 12:26 PM
  #2209  
Warbird AL
My Feedback: (10)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Utah
Posts: 123
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

uh oh Spring Air is gone too? I blinked and the world passed me by
Warbird AL is offline  
Reply With Quote

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy