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CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD

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CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD

Old 06-24-2014, 06:43 AM
  #2051  
w1nd6urfa
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Here goes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7-H...ature=youtu.be

Between 02:00 and 03:00 its slow flying at high idle with flaps for the camera man to get some close shots
03:00 - 03:30 there are some vertical maneuvers at full throttle, after which the camera man loses it ...

I guess my plane is light at 13.5 lbs?
Old 06-24-2014, 06:48 AM
  #2052  
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And another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRRSmeflt64
Old 06-24-2014, 09:03 AM
  #2053  
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wind6urfa, thanks for posting the videos. It looks like the DLE 20 will be enough for me. I have a 72" WS KMP Hurricane that weights 13.2 lbs and it flys ok with a RCGF 20cc engine with a M/A three blade 16-8. I already cut the spinner for a three blade, so that is what it will be.
Old 06-24-2014, 09:54 AM
  #2054  
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Not bad. Keeping the plane light helped a lot I'm sure. I need to shed some weight!
Old 06-24-2014, 10:35 AM
  #2055  
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A member asked that I post photos of the firewall that I built to accommodate a gasser that's mounted with standoffs. I used 1/4" plywood and reinforced any 90 degree joints with triangle stock. Epoxy with chopped fiberglass was used to join the fiberglass to the wood. Wood to wood joints were glued with wood glue reinforced with chopped fiberglass.

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Old 06-24-2014, 08:07 PM
  #2056  
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Looks sturdy, thanks for posting these.

Looks like the prop hub is not protruding from the cowl front, are you using washers between the spinner and prop hub?
Old 06-25-2014, 04:10 AM
  #2057  
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Yeah, I realized I was a little short when I tightened everything down. A spare prop washer fixed that quickly.
Old 06-30-2014, 10:30 AM
  #2058  
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First flight yesterday with the used 109. Took off, flew around and trimmed. Did a clean stall. It rolled to the left but didn't snap. Found several problems after the flight. Tail wheel linkage with the rudder, clevis threads stripped. Elevators not even. Got that fixed and adjusted. Flew again this morning before it got windy. Take off was ok. Trimmed out. Did loops and rolls. Approach stall (gear and flaps down) about same. Flew slower than I thought it would and rolled left at the break. With gear down, slight nose heavy but flaps down cancelled that out. No mix needed. Landed ok with just a small bounce. With the gear moved forward and angled further forward, no tendency to nose over. you have to pay attention to directional control on take off, but not too bad. Dry weight is 14 lbs. I tried to keep it as light as possible. The DLE 20 is just enough. Turning a Graupner 16-8 three blade 7,450 rpm. Here are some pictures taken after the two flights. I'll see about some cosmetic work now that I know it will fly.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:02 PM
  #2059  
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Congrats RBean!

Your description is consistent with my experience of this plane, very stable in the air but needs rudder on take off and after touch down

Interesting paint scheme!
Old 06-30-2014, 08:10 PM
  #2060  
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Some cooling baffles will make the DLE-20 happier, they're easy to do on the detachable lower cowl
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:35 AM
  #2061  
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RBean, did you relocate the landing gear mounting rails? They looks different than the ones on my plane. Maybe it's just an odd perspective from the camera but it looks like your wheels are much more forward of the cg than mine are.
Old 07-01-2014, 11:28 AM
  #2062  
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irocbsa, yes, the landing gear mounts were moved as far forward as possible and gear angled forward. No problems with nose overs on our grass strip. w1n so far no obvious over heating problems, but the scoop on the lower cowl can't hurt. The paint job is a results of the previous owners many repairs. I got three more flights yesterday evening after the wind calmed down some. Total of six flights now and is handling ok. So I'm looking at paint schemes and colors. The entire bottom of wing need repainting and parts of top of wing and patched places in the fuselage. I'm going to do the spinner, 1/3 white and 2/3 black with the yellow lower cowl area. What color were the prop blades? Some color photos look black, but I'm not sure. I've found you can use clothing dye to change the color of nylon/composite props. Just need a pot big enough for the prop to fit.
Old 07-01-2014, 07:41 PM
  #2063  
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Props were RLM 70, a dark grey-green (not black!)

The easiest option is to buy a jar of modelling paint (e.g. Testors) that carry ready-mixed RLM 70

Old 07-02-2014, 08:13 AM
  #2064  
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I think I am going to have to cut out the stock rails and relocate them. It is very difficult not to nose over on our grass field. Thanks for the reply.

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Old 07-02-2014, 11:26 AM
  #2065  
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Thanks for the info on the prop colors. I like to dye my nylon/composite props instead of painting, that way the color stays on and penetrates into the prop material some. I'll see how close a color match I can get with the dye. The gear location mod is a real pain, but is more scale and works great. Also while you are at it, can beef up the structure, which is needed anyway. When you angle the gear forward it will lay flat in the wells. The wheel wells are as large as possible without going into the wing spar. 3.5" wheels are as large as will fit. I'm out of town working so will get back on the painting when I return. Here is another photo of the gear from different angle. I'm going to use the gray green camp scheme and incorporate with most of the markings already on the plane.
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:42 AM
  #2066  
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that's my cmpro bf 109 f and which had its stock paint scheme for a few years, lately i decided to paint a new one using for the first time an airbrush!

Many thanks to my friend w1nd6urfer whose valuable knowledge about model airbrush painting helped me to overcome my initial fears about using an airbrush!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLWJXhD73ew
Old 07-07-2014, 08:01 AM
  #2067  
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:28 PM
  #2068  
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The used, refabed 109 is out of the paint shop. Here are some pictures taken this morning. I have since added the crosses on the bottom wing. I flew it this morning. I think the paint and pilot moved the cg back slightly. Had to add one click down trim. First flight uneventful with good landing. On the second flight as the gear was retracting, I saw something fall off the plane. Brought it around and put the gear down, sure enough the right wheel was missing. Went ahead a flew the landed gear up on the grass runway. It was still wet so lucked out, no damage. Bought some Du-bro Vintage wheels a LHS. In doing repairs found the set screw couldn't be turned even with heat. Had to drill it out the re-tapped with 8-32. The other side was the same. I couldn't get the screw out but was able to pull the axle out anyway. New set screws from Ace Hardware. All fixed now. Total of eight flights now. Need to do some fine tuning. More neg. expose on elevators and more throw for the ailerons.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:46 PM
  #2069  
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It's looking good, I love the mottles!
Old 07-28-2014, 06:41 PM
  #2070  
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I completed my NGH 38GF powered CMP BF-109 last week and began breaking in the engine. Unfortunately, the engine had so much vibration that it broke the motor mount and the throttle linkage on the first tank full of fuel. I have ordered an NGH 35 CC rear exhaust two-stroke engine to replace the 38 CC four stroke. Hopefully, the new engine will not be as hard on the airframe.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:12 PM
  #2071  
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Heli,
Whatever engine you install, GET RID of the stock spinner!

This thing is known to explode spraying high-velocity plastic shards (grenade-style). I was lucky mine happened in the air, you don;t want to be close WHEN that happens (not IF it happens!)

Replacements spinners from Fliteskin.com and DavePlattModels.com
Old 07-29-2014, 03:54 AM
  #2072  
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Yes! For gosh sake's get rid of that thing. It WILL explode on you and is best used as wall decoration or a very uncomfortable brassiere. You can get a spinner from Dave Platt for about $60.
Old 07-29-2014, 05:20 PM
  #2073  
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OK guys, thanks for the input. I contacted Dave Platt today for a new spinner.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 08-02-2014, 11:06 AM
  #2074  
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Making a bit of progress now. I replaced the NGH 38GF engine with an NGH 35GX two stroke engine. I also reinforced the motor mount with 1/2" plywood on the bottom and 1/8" x 1/2" x 4" long alum strips on top. I am now waiting for the Dave Platt spinner to arrive so I can begin engine break-in. I also ordered a couple of Xoar 18x8 props for the new 35 CC engine.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 08-02-2014, 08:11 PM
  #2075  
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18x8 is on the small end for a 35cc, should be OK for break-in but on the 109 a 18x10 should be better

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