CMP BF109F BUILDING THREAD
#2202
My Feedback: (9)
Well at the end of the flying season I was trying to get the toe-in correct on my me109 CMP, made an adjustment and did not realize it was badly toed in till I got to the field. This plane is one of those born under a dark star, it had a YS-150L for power for the first 5 flights but it never ran well and all 5 flights ended dead stick. So when I switched to electric I had to come up with something to go from mounting rails to motor and what I came up with was poor at best. Balancing the 6+ inch spinner delayed the first electric flight for 2 or 3 years while I upgraded my equipment to handle that size spinner.
So when I got out to the runway and it would not move like I had breaks on it. I realized it was the toe in, the thought crossed my mind I should really pack this back in the car and fix it but it’s a dark star plane and at some point the constant failing has to stop. I even remember adding up the number of times to the field with out flying, and the number of failed flights (30 trips, 9 flights, 5 dead stick landings). So I added full left rudder and it started to turn released it and correct for torque and she was running down the runway. I let it run extra long then rotated. As usual I unloaded the wing and it dropped like a rock. I’m only a foot of the runway so I added some of the E back for the full power landing. I don’t think it hit the runway, but my son and the other onlookers say it did. The retracts where an old set of rhom airs so it it hit they were toast as they were only good for 12# planes and this one is 20#. But it popped back into the air into a wingover to the left and I went into get the nose down and wings level mode. I managed to do so before it landed on the mains hard then skidded to a stop.
So I threw it into a corner and forgot about model planes for 5 months. This weekend I pulled it out and looked it over, the rhom-airs mounting brackets are bent all the war aft and the #2 screw that held them together are broken off at the heads in three places, but the mounts that I had installed and the oleo’s are solid and I did not bust out any of the wing bays with the LG. The motor mount was busted too.
As is usual right after completing the first engine mount I realized the better way to do it so I started that this weekend. Initially I had built a firewall on the engine rails, making the high stress area right where the firewall was attached to the rails and where it broke. This time I plane to mount ¼ ply to the back of the annular ring’s ¼ inch ply and mount the motor to that. so this weekend turned into finding out what I don’t have. I had to switch from the prop adapter mounted to the front of the can to the one that tightens on to the shaft. The spinner adapter I have for the mounts on the can is M8 x 1.0 and the one that tightens on the shaft is M8 x 1.25, so I ordered that. now I have to find some flat head screws for the annular ring to the ¼ ply motor mount.
Joe
So when I got out to the runway and it would not move like I had breaks on it. I realized it was the toe in, the thought crossed my mind I should really pack this back in the car and fix it but it’s a dark star plane and at some point the constant failing has to stop. I even remember adding up the number of times to the field with out flying, and the number of failed flights (30 trips, 9 flights, 5 dead stick landings). So I added full left rudder and it started to turn released it and correct for torque and she was running down the runway. I let it run extra long then rotated. As usual I unloaded the wing and it dropped like a rock. I’m only a foot of the runway so I added some of the E back for the full power landing. I don’t think it hit the runway, but my son and the other onlookers say it did. The retracts where an old set of rhom airs so it it hit they were toast as they were only good for 12# planes and this one is 20#. But it popped back into the air into a wingover to the left and I went into get the nose down and wings level mode. I managed to do so before it landed on the mains hard then skidded to a stop.
So I threw it into a corner and forgot about model planes for 5 months. This weekend I pulled it out and looked it over, the rhom-airs mounting brackets are bent all the war aft and the #2 screw that held them together are broken off at the heads in three places, but the mounts that I had installed and the oleo’s are solid and I did not bust out any of the wing bays with the LG. The motor mount was busted too.
As is usual right after completing the first engine mount I realized the better way to do it so I started that this weekend. Initially I had built a firewall on the engine rails, making the high stress area right where the firewall was attached to the rails and where it broke. This time I plane to mount ¼ ply to the back of the annular ring’s ¼ inch ply and mount the motor to that. so this weekend turned into finding out what I don’t have. I had to switch from the prop adapter mounted to the front of the can to the one that tightens on to the shaft. The spinner adapter I have for the mounts on the can is M8 x 1.0 and the one that tightens on the shaft is M8 x 1.25, so I ordered that. now I have to find some flat head screws for the annular ring to the ¼ ply motor mount.
Joe
#2203
What I did was simply mount the electric motor with the x-mount to the inside of the firewall nose. When putting the prop shaft adapter on, it made the correct space for the spinner backplate.
I did have to widen the hole where the prop shaft would stick through a little. But this was the easiest method. Of course, the built in wood glow motor mount rails needed to be dremeled wider to fit the drum of the electric motor.
I did have to widen the hole where the prop shaft would stick through a little. But this was the easiest method. Of course, the built in wood glow motor mount rails needed to be dremeled wider to fit the drum of the electric motor.
#2204
My Feedback: (9)
yup, that's what im doing, but in order to mount the ys I had to replace the wood rail cause the stock ones were just better than light ply. for what ever reason I put a hole in the annular ring big enough to fit the motor 5065-320 through plus a lot more. so I made a interposer to span that and epoxied in place using the spinner to locate it. when dry I put screws through. walking it out to the garage I have to rest it on its nose and the epoxy broke free and it started to chuck around.
brought it back down to the work shop to find out that the ply in the annular ring stripped out once the epoxy gave out. no problem, so I got some flat head screws and went through from the front so the wood screws are anchored in the maple.
did you have any problems with the annular ring wood giving way and the screws loosening up?
joe
brought it back down to the work shop to find out that the ply in the annular ring stripped out once the epoxy gave out. no problem, so I got some flat head screws and went through from the front so the wood screws are anchored in the maple.
did you have any problems with the annular ring wood giving way and the screws loosening up?
joe
#2205
I didn't have any issues myself with that wood ring in the nose. I did add a bead of epoxy all the way around it internally along with a couple short pieces of square wood dowel rods epoxied to that ring and inside of fuse nose so the ring couldnt somehow vibrate loose from the fiberglass. Additionally, I used t-nuts and socket head cap screws through the 4 x-mount holes ....so sandwiched the very front of the nose fiberglass with the wood ring and x-mount.
#2206
My Feedback: (9)
my screws were short as not to come through the fiberglass, the screws in two spots were close enough to the edge of the ply that it broke apart between the screw and edge . I used wood screws into maple should hold well. if not I will go to blind nuts but that will b a lot of work. I'm tired of this high maintenance plane sucking up all my modeling time, I swear its a foamie in disguise?
Joe
Joe
#2210
My Feedback: (9)
well IDK now I went back to the site after your post and there has been some work done.
Home | Spring Air Products
check it out. last year it was only the front page.
guess the only way to find out for sure is to order something?
Joe
Home | Spring Air Products
check it out. last year it was only the front page.
guess the only way to find out for sure is to order something?
Joe
#2211
My Feedback: (9)
well I got the fuse out side and ran it up and all looks good!
brought the wing in:
I GOT THE RHOM-AIRS removed from the CMP me109 wing. it turns out I replaced the front mount with maple and left the back, putting 2 part foam under it. well one side the foam was perfect the other it only touched the aft lg mount enough to fool me into thinking it was good, that mount broke (but the most astonishing thing is it was 3 .125 thick layers of what feels like hard balsa). I have to dig up some 1/4 x 1/2 pine to replace it. hopefully will get to work on it tonight.
Joe
brought the wing in:
I GOT THE RHOM-AIRS removed from the CMP me109 wing. it turns out I replaced the front mount with maple and left the back, putting 2 part foam under it. well one side the foam was perfect the other it only touched the aft lg mount enough to fool me into thinking it was good, that mount broke (but the most astonishing thing is it was 3 .125 thick layers of what feels like hard balsa). I have to dig up some 1/4 x 1/2 pine to replace it. hopefully will get to work on it tonight.
Joe
#2212
My Feedback: (1)
well I got the fuse out side and ran it up and all looks good!
brought the wing in:
I GOT THE RHOM-AIRS removed from the CMP me109 wing. it turns out I replaced the front mount with maple and left the back, putting 2 part foam under it. well one side the foam was perfect the other it only touched the aft lg mount enough to fool me into thinking it was good, that mount broke (but the most astonishing thing is it was 3 .125 thick layers of what feels like hard balsa). I have to dig up some 1/4 x 1/2 pine to replace it. hopefully will get to work on it tonight.
Joe
brought the wing in:
I GOT THE RHOM-AIRS removed from the CMP me109 wing. it turns out I replaced the front mount with maple and left the back, putting 2 part foam under it. well one side the foam was perfect the other it only touched the aft lg mount enough to fool me into thinking it was good, that mount broke (but the most astonishing thing is it was 3 .125 thick layers of what feels like hard balsa). I have to dig up some 1/4 x 1/2 pine to replace it. hopefully will get to work on it tonight.
Joe
#2213
Just for information.... Darrell at Sierra actually made gear for this CMP plane. I have a set. They are not the same as the Sierras for ESM. Slight difference in the rake angle of the struts when retracted.
#2215
Is any one still flying these or putting them together ?, I have only just found this thread--it's big
I found one recently NIB and started to work on it, I have read back in the thread and found some very good information and build tip's, I have an aftermarket tail wheel coming as well as some 4'' wheels which will help with my grass strip, the build will be electric using 8s 5000mah batteries (2x4s)
Mike
I found one recently NIB and started to work on it, I have read back in the thread and found some very good information and build tip's, I have an aftermarket tail wheel coming as well as some 4'' wheels which will help with my grass strip, the build will be electric using 8s 5000mah batteries (2x4s)
Mike
#2216
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
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Hey Mike,
I bought one of these NIB as well in Melbourne. Its been sitting at my parents house for the last 6 months waiting for me to go down and make a box that will last the flight up to Brissy. Should be down there in about 3 weeks time. I have a few projects on the go but hopefully Ill get going on this one soon. I have a set of Sierra's for it with william bros wheels for it, and I think I'll be making a carbon spinner for it from the CMP one.
Will be going gasser though..
I bought one of these NIB as well in Melbourne. Its been sitting at my parents house for the last 6 months waiting for me to go down and make a box that will last the flight up to Brissy. Should be down there in about 3 weeks time. I have a few projects on the go but hopefully Ill get going on this one soon. I have a set of Sierra's for it with william bros wheels for it, and I think I'll be making a carbon spinner for it from the CMP one.
Will be going gasser though..
#2217
Hi Ticketec
So another local build :-)
I had some luck with this kit as the supplied plastic spinner was missing but it came with ( I know now after reading the past posts) a Dave Platt spinner ?, I am going to take a FG mold from it just in case it get's damaged and I can make a replacement in FG
I enjoyed your cmp FW 190 build I found recently, just completed mine
Mike
So another local build :-)
I had some luck with this kit as the supplied plastic spinner was missing but it came with ( I know now after reading the past posts) a Dave Platt spinner ?, I am going to take a FG mold from it just in case it get's damaged and I can make a replacement in FG
I enjoyed your cmp FW 190 build I found recently, just completed mine
Mike
#2219
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
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4 Posts
I actually bought this kit when it first came to the market and was really impressed with it. I bought a Ty spinner for it, but then other projects got in from of it and i sold it when ESM released the Fw-190Dora.
Was sorry I did that ever since and kept my eye open for another one for a while till I bought the one i now have. Would love to get my hands on a Ty's spinner as they fit the kit the best but... rare as hens teeth now.
Thanks
dave
Was sorry I did that ever since and kept my eye open for another one for a while till I bought the one i now have. Would love to get my hands on a Ty's spinner as they fit the kit the best but... rare as hens teeth now.
Thanks
dave
#2220
My Feedback: (43)
I still fly mine from time to time and it flies great! Wish they still produced this plane. I use a Fliteskin spinner which is the perfect size, shape, and is still available; Fliteskin Products Home Page
#2221
Got to agree it's a nicely presented model with some good detail and finish though some scale detail is a bit out, like most war birds, I will have to get a new canopy for mine as the canopy is yellow ? I don't think age has caused it as it's yellow on the back side of the painted frame and the color is consistent--I could be wrong
Mike
Mike
#2222
There's a new version in the works. Prototypes have been made... As far as I know.... Refinements are supposedly being done, but from I've seen. . It's improved from the ones we're familiar with. LDM would have more info as he's the one who told me. No timeframe yet that I know of.
#2224
That is good news if they are going to put out a new model or two
Got the surfaces attached to the wing and servo's installed, not sure what to do with the inner flap, might try to connect it to the flap to operate it and save on 2 servo and a bit of weight
Mike
Got the surfaces attached to the wing and servo's installed, not sure what to do with the inner flap, might try to connect it to the flap to operate it and save on 2 servo and a bit of weight
Mike