curtusua-RCU

My Feedback: (91)

Hey Jim... Curt here... the guy you bought the model from. I see you got it home in good shape and it looks great.

Good luck on the maiden flight and let us know how it goes.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

PM

After about 85 missions with 100% reliability on my gear, my gear was sticking at IWC on Sunday morning.
At first, I attributed it to the cold morning, but it never got better.
At home, I removed the 'speed' screws in the air valve and all is better, again.
Interesting, like my F4U, the 'speed' screws tightened versus backing out, causing the gear to partially work.
After hitting the tips of my wooden props during transport, I started using some foam pipe insulation to protect them.

arfdog

My Feedback: (113)

Had the maiden flight last Saturday. I couldn't have asked for a more enjoyable experience. Great uneventful flight with cool flyby's . On landing, the sight of those huge flaps hanging down as the plane passed me at about 6 feet altitude and settling down on two wheels for rollout was like winning a contest!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

A few pictures taken by Randy at Lexington's flyin:

pic 1:
take off
Forgot to close the canopy until after the third lap!

pic 2:
landing

pic 3:
six of us, all flying P-47's.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

main gear:

After about 90 missions and 2-3 ground loops during that time, my right retract looked like an FW-190 main gear. After checking the wing mount, gear mount and strut, I took the retract apart and found out the problem to be the steel pin to be slightly bent on the trunion assembly that locks the gear in the UP/DOWN position through the cam assembly. I straightened it in a vise and all seems good but I'll order two new ones along with the cam assembly (shouldn't cost much).
I can see that pin bending when a 38 lb plane moving around 25 MPH moves against the side of the gear!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

PM for the flying season:

I removed the engine assembly and found a few problems.
The ignition/btry tray broke loose: the ply that I used was glued on using the 'wafer (multiple plys)' position and the plys separated (something that I didn't think about). I re-epoxied the tray but also used some #4 screws to secure the tray to the engine assembly.
The epoxy for one of the triangular engine fire wall supports broke loose from the fire wall (hair line crack and only on one side).
The clunk in the tank was stiff as a board. The tanks rubber stopper got mis-figured so I just replaced the entire tank. I used dubro's #814 brass barbs on the brass tubing to secure the flexible tubing. As I PM each tank, I'm now using high temp viton tubing on the clunk. It is suppose to remain flexible in gas. I got it from McMaster-carr (#5119k41): it's expensive so I only use it for the clunk as the tubing outside the tank is easy to replace. I'm partial to the '2-line' setup for the tank using a 'T'.
At the end of last season, I had a problem with the gear not functioning (fortunately on a ground test). One of the gear servos was 'gittering'. Initially, I attribute it to binding but the servo's 'pot' (or something) must be bad as it did the same thing with the control rod removed.
The servo was replaced but a gear test will be done, tomorrow (spent all day doing this PM!).
I use two gear servos since I'm using the EMS door sequencer.
The main tray's mounts were broken loose: During transport, the front of the fuse rests on PVC pipe and part of the fuse pushed in from all the bouncing. There is about a 2" area forward of the mount that I failed to glass. This area, plus the original area behind the tray mount, was re-glassed.
Two new receiver batteries installed going from 3400 ma to 5400 ma.
The spark plug was also replaced.

pic 1/2:
Ignition (at the bottom in the 1st picture)/btry tray broke loose plus one triangular support.

pic 3:
Area glassed and tray mount fixed.

pic 4:
New gear servo installed and main tray re-mounted.
Third servo is for canopy.
Contact switch on gear servo for landing lights.

pic 5:
Old tank/clunk.

pic 6:
New clunk with black viton tubing.

pic 7:
New tank installed.
Over flow tubing wrapped around back of tank before exiting to reduce fuel lost on loops.
Other long tubing is fill that goes to, under the cockpit.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

PM for the flying season (cont)

It took several more hours to finish checking out the rest of the plane.
The pull/pull wires on the tail wheel was really loose. Late last season, this may explain why I had two bad swerves on the ground (or else, dumb thumbs!)
One serious problem was the dubro heavy duty ball socket was loose on one elevator side.
I don't think that I've ever had one of these get loose as the servo arm was tapped plus a locking nut was used.
Removed all hatches and checked all servos: one only had two servo screws (dealing with 17 servos, I may have missed putting in two!). The throttle/choke servos screws were loose, probably from all the close engine vibration. The choke arm set screw on the carb was also loose: some locktite and a quarter turn fixed that.

pic 1:
A lot of slop in the tail wheel steering wires.

pic 2:
Inner door air cylinder mount loose.

pic 3:
One side of the elevator ball link loose.

pic 4/5:
All servos checked.
Throttle/choke servos screws needed some work.

pic 6/7:
Operational test:
idle: 1800 rpm's
full throttle: 6000

pic 9:
'One down' and ready for the 'field', and a lot more planes 'to go'!

hrrcflyer

Samparfitt,

I just finished reading through your thread and I am at a loss for words. Your P-47 has to be one of the nicest looking Jugs I've seen yet and your craftsmanship is outstanding....

I hope you have many more great years flying your AWESOME Jug......

David

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

David,
Thanks for the kind words but I have to rank myself as an average builder as they would not score very high in a contest but I enjoy building and flying them; and after a hundred flights, this P-47 is probably one of the easiest planes to take off and land.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Nomenclature.

After about a hundred flights and having the dry transfers for a year, I figure it's time to put them on!
They are from pro-mark and are made for the P-47.
I got the black since the plane is aluminum.
They also sell two generic nomenclature sheets: I got one white and black of each set for future use.

An FW-190 tracer hit one of my panels on the left side of the fuse so I put on a 'new panel' with rivets!

I use a heat gun to warm the surface and the dry transfer to help them adhere to each other.
I use a piece of masking tape on one side (edge) to insure the transfer sheet doesn't move and I can put it back exactly where it was, should I miss transferring all the ink to the surface. I just use an old credit card for transferring the ink (actually it is an epoxy).
Ideally, a clear coat should be added but I don't want that on my aluminum covering.
I'll just have to wait and see how it holds up.

The P-47 comes with a 'location' sheet and they are numbered so it's easy to transfer the nomenclature to the correct location.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Nomenclature (cont)

darren763

My Feedback: (117)

Looking better Sam I liked it @ Owatonna last year and it looks even better with the dry transfers on it.

I will see you soon,

Darren

f6hlct

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a photo of Sam posing with his awesome Robart P-47 in aluminum finish at the Rally of Giants this past weekend in Muncie Indiana. I had been reading this thread for some time now, as I am also building the same bird. It was a 15 hour drive for me, and by chance my tent happened to end up right beside Sam’s. We had never met before, so this was great coincidence. I am hoping to test fly mine in a week or two.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Pictures that Ted Brindle took at the Rally of the Giants at Muncie.

The plane kept climbing and I asked my buddy to give me some down elevator and he said it was maxed out. Not sure why this happened, after over 100 flights. I checked engine mount, wings and stab and all looked good. For some reason, max down trim and I still had up elevator.
At home, I still didn't find any problems but I decided to replace both elevator servos as they may be going bad. I reset the trim to neutral as well as the elevator.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Elevator adjustments.

Yesterday, I had the same problem with the plane climbing with the elevator at 'neutral'.
Seventeen clicks of down were needed.
Back at the shop, I moved the servo arms one groove on the servo shaft which came out to be 17 clicks and neutralized the trim lever.
The pictures shows how much down is needed with the left elevator re-adjusted.
I checked the engine thrust and it has a good 2 degrees down thrust.

curtusua-RCU

My Feedback: (91)

Sam, et. al...

Does anyone have any information about when this model might be available again? Other than the initial run of the model, they seem to be permanently unavailable on Robart's website.

Thanks...

Curt

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

At Toledo, I thought that they said this Fall.

f6hlct

My Feedback: (4)

I am looking for help with the retracts that come with this plane. With the wheels aligned straight, they tilt at an angle when retracted in the wheel well. Because of this, they do not travel the full 90 degrees in order for the up lock cam to seat when the wheels are up. Robart’s said that putting a strip of 1/8th shim on the inside of the mount will improve the angle, but the cam will still not lock. I have had to remove almost 1/8th “ of the plastice from the inside of the trunnion block where the cam is to seat in order for it to lock, but this does not seem right. What are other people doing to get the retracts to work properly.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

I don't remember having to do anything as the the retracts worked 'as is'.
It doesn't seem like you should be modifying the gear but, as robart suggested, put some ply at one end so they work properly. It seems like the wooden mounts may have been improperly installed at the factory. Putting the proper ply shim to make the retracts perpendicular to the ground should also allow the gear to fully retract and lock.

f6hlct

My Feedback: (4)

Can you post a photo of the wheel in the retracted positon as well as the retract in the mount.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

pictures at post # 19 on the gear install:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80..._1/key_/tm.htm

Springer 2

My Feedback: (11)

Does anyone have an update on the release of the Gen 2 P-47 from Robart?

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Hi all,

Just bought one of these without an engine, actaully if you look back at post 348, thats the plane! I need to know what the various engines everyone is using on these planes. I have a 3W 70 on the bench but am concerned that will be a little low on power to properly fly this plane. The cowl is cut for a twin (DA100) but I may want to close up the holes in the cowl needed for the twin and install a single. Is 70 enough or should I consider something more in the 80 cc range.

Thanks for responding.

Todd

more10cc

Hi Dave
Retracts is attached at a right angle when I put a wedge like a photograph.
In wing root side is 5mm to 9mm, the other side is 0mm to 4mm .
The strut is 90 degrees for the ground if you do it in this way.
Toshiaki

Springer 2

My Feedback: (11)

I have seen several Gen 1 and all I saw were using DA-85 using a 27/10 and it flew great, scale. Did you buy this used?