COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
08-03-2010, 06:39 PM
#876
RE: COMP ARF 110
Thanks, dudes.
The F4U assembly manual says not to exceed 125 MPH as it may put undo stress on the plane.
The plane was built around the '250' but it's way more power than needed.
The manual also says not to exceed 50% throttle on takeoff.
I only plan to fly her at scale speed which will probably be 50% throttle and less and only use full throttle on those 300' diameter loops.
I'm not sure when the maiden will be since our club has their big airshow for the general public at the local county airport on Saturday and Sunday, and then I'm heading out on Wednesday to go to 'northern alliance warbird' flyin in Minnesota and then, 'round robin' the following week, to 'warbirds over the midwest' in Wisconsin.
I'm taking the corsair with me so maybe I can get some flights in before the flyin's start.
The F4U assembly manual says not to exceed 125 MPH as it may put undo stress on the plane.
The plane was built around the '250' but it's way more power than needed.
The manual also says not to exceed 50% throttle on takeoff.
I only plan to fly her at scale speed which will probably be 50% throttle and less and only use full throttle on those 300' diameter loops.
I'm not sure when the maiden will be since our club has their big airshow for the general public at the local county airport on Saturday and Sunday, and then I'm heading out on Wednesday to go to 'northern alliance warbird' flyin in Minnesota and then, 'round robin' the following week, to 'warbirds over the midwest' in Wisconsin.
I'm taking the corsair with me so maybe I can get some flights in before the flyin's start.
08-05-2010, 09:57 AM
#877
RE: COMP ARF 110
Securing to trailer.
On the last short trip, the tail flopped around so it is now secured with bungees.
Foam under the back and front of the fuse, dampen any bouncing to the gear.
Bungees also secure the front main oleos to the floor.
For the weekend, another 15 mile test will be done to insure the F4U doesn't 'move around'.
The 20" left on one side of the plane is enough for transporting the P-47/P-61 and C-45 wings.
There's only a few inches between the P-61's nose and the F4U's stab but the stab is raised so no hanger rash should occur, plus lots of foam/moving blankets for added protection.
The plane is too bulky with the wings attached so a ramp is used for getting the plane into the trailer.
The pink foam on the wing tips with the wing covers for protection prevent the wings from 'flopping around'.
On the last short trip, the tail flopped around so it is now secured with bungees.
Foam under the back and front of the fuse, dampen any bouncing to the gear.
Bungees also secure the front main oleos to the floor.
For the weekend, another 15 mile test will be done to insure the F4U doesn't 'move around'.
The 20" left on one side of the plane is enough for transporting the P-47/P-61 and C-45 wings.
There's only a few inches between the P-61's nose and the F4U's stab but the stab is raised so no hanger rash should occur, plus lots of foam/moving blankets for added protection.
The plane is too bulky with the wings attached so a ramp is used for getting the plane into the trailer.
The pink foam on the wing tips with the wing covers for protection prevent the wings from 'flopping around'.
08-09-2010, 05:29 PM
#878
RE: COMP ARF 110
Cowl/prop
I painted the tips for safety and put on the 'hamilton' decals.
I was looking for a safe place to store the cowl and it seems like the fuse is 'it'!
I think this is the first time the cowl has been on since painting.
I was able to slip some thin card stock between the rocker arm adjustment screws and the inside of the cowl on TDC so that should be enough clearance!
I painted the tips for safety and put on the 'hamilton' decals.
I was looking for a safe place to store the cowl and it seems like the fuse is 'it'!
I think this is the first time the cowl has been on since painting.
I was able to slip some thin card stock between the rocker arm adjustment screws and the inside of the cowl on TDC so that should be enough clearance!
08-10-2010, 08:05 AM
#881
RE: COMP ARF 110
Folding wing (in transit) change.
The 15 mile test trips proved that a mod was needed to stabilize the wing tips so the wings don't shake while in 'transport'. The small bungee cords connected at the end of the wing bags proves ineffective as the wing bag partially lifted up allowing the solid pink foam to no longer stay firmly on the wing tips. I used some longer bungees and just hooked the ends of the foam and attached the other end to a hole in the metal wing folding mechanism. The foam is pretty dense so the hook ends of the bungees shouldn't rip out as the force needed to hold the foam on the wings is not very much. An old sock protects the edge of the wing from the bungee cord.
The 15 mile test trips proved that a mod was needed to stabilize the wing tips so the wings don't shake while in 'transport'. The small bungee cords connected at the end of the wing bags proves ineffective as the wing bag partially lifted up allowing the solid pink foam to no longer stay firmly on the wing tips. I used some longer bungees and just hooked the ends of the foam and attached the other end to a hole in the metal wing folding mechanism. The foam is pretty dense so the hook ends of the bungees shouldn't rip out as the force needed to hold the foam on the wings is not very much. An old sock protects the edge of the wing from the bungee cord.
08-10-2010, 08:22 AM
#882
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Sam:
Hopefully that does not put strain on the folding wing mechanics during transit.
Looking foward to seeing all these plane in person at MIDWEST and MUNCIE WARBIRDS again.
Hopefully that does not put strain on the folding wing mechanics during transit.
Looking foward to seeing all these plane in person at MIDWEST and MUNCIE WARBIRDS again.
08-10-2010, 09:38 AM
#883
RE: COMP ARF 110
Roger,
I think it will be OK as the foam keeps the wings from flopping around, which was my big concern to putting excess wear on the folding mechanism. With the foam in place, the wings are very rigid and don't move. The key item for removing movement in the wings are the two slots cut in the pink foam: it completes a triangular form that is rigid. The soft yellow foam under the center wing and the back of the fuse keeps the bulk of the pressure off the retracts so those should, also, be OK.
Of course, 725 miles is a lot longer than 15 miles. On my first break, I'll check to insure all planes are secure.
I think it will be OK as the foam keeps the wings from flopping around, which was my big concern to putting excess wear on the folding mechanism. With the foam in place, the wings are very rigid and don't move. The key item for removing movement in the wings are the two slots cut in the pink foam: it completes a triangular form that is rigid. The soft yellow foam under the center wing and the back of the fuse keeps the bulk of the pressure off the retracts so those should, also, be OK.
Of course, 725 miles is a lot longer than 15 miles. On my first break, I'll check to insure all planes are secure.
08-18-2010, 09:11 PM
#884
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RE: COMP ARF 110
I have a spare set of the small fiberglass covers that go on top of the wing for the folding wing version. If anyone wants/needs them, I will send them out.
08-18-2010, 09:31 PM
#885
My Feedback: (24)
RE: COMP ARF 110
samparfitt
Nice looking plane. I have one question about the Moki and the clearance. Does this Moki 250 fit OK or is the plane really too small for the motor? In your picture it looked really tight. I am trying to decide between this plane and a couple of others so any thoughts are welcomed.
Nice looking plane. I have one question about the Moki and the clearance. Does this Moki 250 fit OK or is the plane really too small for the motor? In your picture it looked really tight. I am trying to decide between this plane and a couple of others so any thoughts are welcomed.
08-20-2010, 07:18 AM
#886
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RE: COMP ARF 110
I would like to post a notice of "Job well done" to Darryl at Sierra precision. He responded to a problem within hours and has me fixed up for the weekend.
I had a problem the last two times out with the loss of the prime on the hydrolic system after 1 flight and was unabele to fold the wings. I misdiagnosed the problem the first time. I saw a small leak near the cylinder of the left wing and thought it was where the tubing went into the festo connector. I snipped the line and reseated it and all seemed OK. Actually, after the second days flight I realized that the leak was coming from arund the piston rod. Obviouly there was o-ring that was leaking.
I talked with Darryl and he was concerned enough that he sent me a brand new cylinder and has asked me to return the old one to evaluate and make sure this is just an isolated issue and not the beginning of a larger problem.
That is service the way it should be and I promised the next time I need retracts or any product that he offers I will surely buy from him.
Scott
I had a problem the last two times out with the loss of the prime on the hydrolic system after 1 flight and was unabele to fold the wings. I misdiagnosed the problem the first time. I saw a small leak near the cylinder of the left wing and thought it was where the tubing went into the festo connector. I snipped the line and reseated it and all seemed OK. Actually, after the second days flight I realized that the leak was coming from arund the piston rod. Obviouly there was o-ring that was leaking.
I talked with Darryl and he was concerned enough that he sent me a brand new cylinder and has asked me to return the old one to evaluate and make sure this is just an isolated issue and not the beginning of a larger problem.
That is service the way it should be and I promised the next time I need retracts or any product that he offers I will surely buy from him.
Scott
08-27-2010, 03:07 PM
#888
RE: COMP ARF 110
Dos007,
I never had another comparf plane but the surface dents more easily than my FG cloth/resin planes.
========
Maiden flight
Conditions weren't to my 'liking' at Northern alliance but were good on Wednesday at Fond du lac but an air leak occurred while in the pit area. It got too busy after the flyin starting so, hopefully, at warbirds over Indiana.
pic 1:
I thought that I'd test the folding wing mechanism under a static load (no engine running).
I propped the plane on the folding wing tips and, even with the pump off, the wing mechanism is good after an hour.
I never had another comparf plane but the surface dents more easily than my FG cloth/resin planes.
========
Maiden flight
Conditions weren't to my 'liking' at Northern alliance but were good on Wednesday at Fond du lac but an air leak occurred while in the pit area. It got too busy after the flyin starting so, hopefully, at warbirds over Indiana.
pic 1:
I thought that I'd test the folding wing mechanism under a static load (no engine running).
I propped the plane on the folding wing tips and, even with the pump off, the wing mechanism is good after an hour.
09-06-2010, 06:37 PM
#889
RE: COMP ARF 110
MORE PM
It was too windy to maiden my F4U at IWC so they wanted me to 'demo' the plane and engine to the 'crowd': unfortunately, I embarrassed myself when the engine would not start.
Mike Barbee was at IWC and has several MOKI's and a couple decades of experience with them and he graciously came over and helped me with my engine.
Since the ignition battery was dead, Mike deduced that I installed my voltage regulator to the battery and switch instead of ignition and switch. This was my first regulator so I didn't know that the regulator will drain the battery.
My buddy, Paul, noticed that one of the valves was hitting the cowl.
The retracts would go UP but took about a minute to go DOWN.
Without my F4U cradle, all this would have to be fixed when I got home.
Also, Paul suggested that I go see the JR guru's and get my folding wings to only operate when the gear is down as an added safety measure (that way, I can only 'screw up' during the short period when the gear is down!).
I'll try to analyze what Dave did to slave the wings to the gear and post it later (It took Dave awhile to figure it out so I don't feel too bad that I couldn't do it).
It's for JR but it seems like the procedure should be similar for other radios.
Darrell said that he's made about 120 gears so I'm sure there are a few other pilots that would like to install this safety device.
I'll probably also be adding a micro switch to light an LED when the wing is in the complete DOWN position.
Back home:
pic 1:
Mike was correct in that the regulator was on the wrong side.
In my defense, the instructions appear a little misleading as it says: 'the female connectors go to the switch supplying power from the battery to the regulator'. It seems it should just say: 'connect the female end to the on/off switch and the other to the ignition'.
pic 2:
I'll have to add a small shim to one side of the cowl mount to move it away from the valve.
Mike also suggested that I use lithium white grease that's water resistant that is found in the fishing section as it will not be shaken off from the vibration.
pic 3:
I'll have to add about a 1" extension to my exhaust as the bottom of the fuse and wing gets a lot of black oil buildup and I'm using a 50:1 ratio.
pic 4:
With the gear taking a long time to go into the DOWN position, initially, I thought that I must be binding the 'down' air line but found that the 'speed' adjustment screws on the valve had tightened. Usually, they come loose, if anything, so I removed them as they do not 'slam' down without the screws.
Something as simple as this can ruin a pilot's day when a belly landing occurs, ripping out the gear doors.
pic 5/6:
Someone pointed out that I could be loosing lift over the wing where the oil coolers are suppose to be, since I have not installed them.
There is a total of a good foot of wing that could not provide lift so I'll be installing them before my first flight.
I wanted to 'dress' them up before installing them in the Fall but that can wait.
It was too windy to maiden my F4U at IWC so they wanted me to 'demo' the plane and engine to the 'crowd': unfortunately, I embarrassed myself when the engine would not start.
Mike Barbee was at IWC and has several MOKI's and a couple decades of experience with them and he graciously came over and helped me with my engine.
Since the ignition battery was dead, Mike deduced that I installed my voltage regulator to the battery and switch instead of ignition and switch. This was my first regulator so I didn't know that the regulator will drain the battery.
My buddy, Paul, noticed that one of the valves was hitting the cowl.
The retracts would go UP but took about a minute to go DOWN.
Without my F4U cradle, all this would have to be fixed when I got home.
Also, Paul suggested that I go see the JR guru's and get my folding wings to only operate when the gear is down as an added safety measure (that way, I can only 'screw up' during the short period when the gear is down!).
I'll try to analyze what Dave did to slave the wings to the gear and post it later (It took Dave awhile to figure it out so I don't feel too bad that I couldn't do it).
It's for JR but it seems like the procedure should be similar for other radios.
Darrell said that he's made about 120 gears so I'm sure there are a few other pilots that would like to install this safety device.
I'll probably also be adding a micro switch to light an LED when the wing is in the complete DOWN position.
Back home:
pic 1:
Mike was correct in that the regulator was on the wrong side.
In my defense, the instructions appear a little misleading as it says: 'the female connectors go to the switch supplying power from the battery to the regulator'. It seems it should just say: 'connect the female end to the on/off switch and the other to the ignition'.
pic 2:
I'll have to add a small shim to one side of the cowl mount to move it away from the valve.
Mike also suggested that I use lithium white grease that's water resistant that is found in the fishing section as it will not be shaken off from the vibration.
pic 3:
I'll have to add about a 1" extension to my exhaust as the bottom of the fuse and wing gets a lot of black oil buildup and I'm using a 50:1 ratio.
pic 4:
With the gear taking a long time to go into the DOWN position, initially, I thought that I must be binding the 'down' air line but found that the 'speed' adjustment screws on the valve had tightened. Usually, they come loose, if anything, so I removed them as they do not 'slam' down without the screws.
Something as simple as this can ruin a pilot's day when a belly landing occurs, ripping out the gear doors.
pic 5/6:
Someone pointed out that I could be loosing lift over the wing where the oil coolers are suppose to be, since I have not installed them.
There is a total of a good foot of wing that could not provide lift so I'll be installing them before my first flight.
I wanted to 'dress' them up before installing them in the Fall but that can wait.
09-06-2010, 10:11 PM
#890
RE: COMP ARF 110
Setting wing fold to only operate while gear is down:
Dave from Horizon set this up and I'm interpreting what he did, hopefully, by checking the screens on the JR X9303 2.4 transmitter.
I'm have the top/front Aux 4 toggle switch to initiate the wing fold mechanism when the gear is in the down position.
Note: these pictures are the best that I could get with my camera.
pic 1 (Mix 3 screen):
Dave selected MIX 3 and set the Slave to itself: ie: AUX 4 -> AUX 4 (upper left in picture).
He has the OFFSET to +176 (will have to check with him on why this is set to this number which is the throttle stick position)(just under the AUX4->AUX4).
POS 1 is -100% and -100% (upper right hand corner).
GER is enabled (bottom of screen).
pic 2 (MONITOR screen):
AUX 4 (lower right on screen)
When gear toggle is down, the diamond shape will move to the left and right of center when the AUX 4 toggle is thrown.
When gear toggle is up, the diamond shape remains only to the right of center (which is the down position for the wings).
Note:
the travel adjustment screen for AUX 4 is the actual servo movement that I needed to move the wing servo (in my case it was +/-30)
Hopefully, this info will help those with other transmitters, as well as JR, to install this safety device on their plane.
Dave from Horizon set this up and I'm interpreting what he did, hopefully, by checking the screens on the JR X9303 2.4 transmitter.
I'm have the top/front Aux 4 toggle switch to initiate the wing fold mechanism when the gear is in the down position.
Note: these pictures are the best that I could get with my camera.
pic 1 (Mix 3 screen):
Dave selected MIX 3 and set the Slave to itself: ie: AUX 4 -> AUX 4 (upper left in picture).
He has the OFFSET to +176 (will have to check with him on why this is set to this number which is the throttle stick position)(just under the AUX4->AUX4).
POS 1 is -100% and -100% (upper right hand corner).
GER is enabled (bottom of screen).
pic 2 (MONITOR screen):
AUX 4 (lower right on screen)
When gear toggle is down, the diamond shape will move to the left and right of center when the AUX 4 toggle is thrown.
When gear toggle is up, the diamond shape remains only to the right of center (which is the down position for the wings).
Note:
the travel adjustment screen for AUX 4 is the actual servo movement that I needed to move the wing servo (in my case it was +/-30)
Hopefully, this info will help those with other transmitters, as well as JR, to install this safety device on their plane.
09-07-2010, 12:14 PM
#891
RE: COMP ARF 110
MORE PM.
pic 1/2:
The flap/aileron/nav light wires were being rubbed by the door linkage so I moved the wires to another hole in the rib.
pic 3:
A cable tie was used to secure the flap/aileron/nav light wires against the main spar as they were hanging down and the wheel could possibly snag them.
pic 4:
One hydraulic line was rubbing against the main hinge pin so it was tie wrapped to the other line.
pic 5:
The oil/air coolers were installed to insure no turbulence of air occurs over that part of the wing.
First, I put some foam rubber in the hole to help hold the coolers to the front of the wing and used thick AC to secure it. In the fall, I'll 'dress' them up.
pic 1/2:
The flap/aileron/nav light wires were being rubbed by the door linkage so I moved the wires to another hole in the rib.
pic 3:
A cable tie was used to secure the flap/aileron/nav light wires against the main spar as they were hanging down and the wheel could possibly snag them.
pic 4:
One hydraulic line was rubbing against the main hinge pin so it was tie wrapped to the other line.
pic 5:
The oil/air coolers were installed to insure no turbulence of air occurs over that part of the wing.
First, I put some foam rubber in the hole to help hold the coolers to the front of the wing and used thick AC to secure it. In the fall, I'll 'dress' them up.
09-07-2010, 05:58 PM
#892
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Wow Sam This is some kind of set up i cant imagine all these systems in one plane i am flying my areoworks extra 300 on 72 mhz i am still in the stone age keep up the good work and dont
by pass any ground checks dont let anyone talk you into anything your not absolutly prepaired for Good luck when the bird is ready to fly
by pass any ground checks dont let anyone talk you into anything your not absolutly prepaired for Good luck when the bird is ready to fly
09-07-2010, 09:16 PM
#893
RE: COMP ARF 110
Jeff,
thanks,
no problem in that department as it's been about three weeks that I've been attempting a 'maiden'.
Each time, I'm glad that I waited as I found another potential problem to fix.
This plane's like maintaining a full size one!
If you don't want to do PM, don't buy a radial.
=================
Engine PM
I used WD-40 and a toothbrush to clean all the rockers to insure no carbon build up and then put the chain saw oil on the rockers and push rods with the toothbrush. The exhaust nuts and engine mount to the fire wall turned a quarter turn, or so.
The clear tubing from the front crank to the carb is clear with no grease present. Cylinder head bolts all seem tight.
The screws holding the cowl mounts to the fire wall were loose: I forgot to epoxy the wood standoffs so that was done along with replacing the philip screws with hex head screws to get a more secure fit.
A ply shim was added to one cowl mount to shift the cowl away from contacting some of the rocker arms.
FYI:
At IWC, I got a very low 600 RPM's and a about 4600 RPM's on the 3-blade, 32" using a 12 pitch.
Both ends are improving which I attribute to the engine beginning to 'break in'.
thanks,
no problem in that department as it's been about three weeks that I've been attempting a 'maiden'.
Each time, I'm glad that I waited as I found another potential problem to fix.
This plane's like maintaining a full size one!
If you don't want to do PM, don't buy a radial.
=================
Engine PM
I used WD-40 and a toothbrush to clean all the rockers to insure no carbon build up and then put the chain saw oil on the rockers and push rods with the toothbrush. The exhaust nuts and engine mount to the fire wall turned a quarter turn, or so.
The clear tubing from the front crank to the carb is clear with no grease present. Cylinder head bolts all seem tight.
The screws holding the cowl mounts to the fire wall were loose: I forgot to epoxy the wood standoffs so that was done along with replacing the philip screws with hex head screws to get a more secure fit.
A ply shim was added to one cowl mount to shift the cowl away from contacting some of the rocker arms.
FYI:
At IWC, I got a very low 600 RPM's and a about 4600 RPM's on the 3-blade, 32" using a 12 pitch.
Both ends are improving which I attribute to the engine beginning to 'break in'.
09-27-2010, 06:19 AM
#896
RE: COMP ARF 110
Mark,
I heard that baffling is needed but I have personally seen at least four corsairs flying without baffling so my engine should stay cool, especially since I have functional cowl flaps.
=============
One more update:
pic 1:
The engine had very little throttle control at the low end of the throttle so I adjusted the throttle curve to (from top to bottom on the JR X9303 throttle curve screen):
0
2.5
11.0
29.0
48.5
76.5
100
I heard that baffling is needed but I have personally seen at least four corsairs flying without baffling so my engine should stay cool, especially since I have functional cowl flaps.
=============
One more update:
pic 1:
The engine had very little throttle control at the low end of the throttle so I adjusted the throttle curve to (from top to bottom on the JR X9303 throttle curve screen):
0
2.5
11.0
29.0
48.5
76.5
100
09-27-2010, 01:26 PM
#898
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RE: COMP ARF 110
I just maidened my Comp-ARF Corsair (Moki 250) with a 28 X 18 by 3 bladed prop. The flight was very successful, but I would prefer to use a larger prop with less pitch. I never got above half throttle. I am looking at the Solo prop that Comp-ARF sells, but I don't see any reviews on it. Is anyone out there currently using this set up - and does it work as advertised? What pitch are you using and what rpm's do you get from that setting? Is the propeller blade hub solid carbon fiber to resist compression?
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
09-27-2010, 02:39 PM
#899
RE: COMP ARF 110
Now they bring out a CF prop!
I've got two wood sets for my solo hub.
Three C notes for the prop set (six for the complete set with hub).
http://www.carf-models.com/public_ca...variantId=1002
I don't see the engine hardware kit in the picture so that will cost ya' an extra 75 bucks (or so).
I've got two wood sets for my solo hub.
Three C notes for the prop set (six for the complete set with hub).
http://www.carf-models.com/public_ca...variantId=1002
I don't see the engine hardware kit in the picture so that will cost ya' an extra 75 bucks (or so).
09-28-2010, 10:08 AM
#900
My Feedback: (43)
RE: COMP ARF 110
The carbon fiber props are much more likely to do engine damage in the event of a nose over at high engine speeds than the wood blades. Same thought process that the the Brits used on the Spitfire. Wooden blades are less likely to do damage to those precious Merlins when they needed them the most.
