COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
#1051
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Thanks for the info. I am excited about this plane. As a kid I watched Black Sheep Squadron and have been a Corsair fan ever since. These Sierra Giants retracts are the best retracts I have ever seen. I will keep the speed down. I don't fly at full throttle very often. Never had the need to. I'll listen for flutter when I fly it. Thanks for the heads up on that.
#1052
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Mike, yes you are correct about the manual and its deficiencies,,, to include material and or "factory" deficiencies as in my elevators,,, and I just got started on mine the other week! The term used in the manual "High End Kit" kinda went out the window as far as I am concerned. See Pics,,,
out of the 3 hinge slots that I began work on,,, The inner hinge post slot on the elev was a mystery as to its location,,, got lucky and found it on my first cut but still had to mill out the aluminum tube because it wasn't,,,
The middle hinge slot was ok,,, as you can see the brass tube
The outer hinge slot is another mystery still yet to be determined [:@]
You wouldn t believe the response I got from the tech guy when I emailed him these pics,,, anyways its time to put my scratch build hat on,,, forget about this kit being an ARF,,, move the manual next to the roll of TP,,, and just build
BV
out of the 3 hinge slots that I began work on,,, The inner hinge post slot on the elev was a mystery as to its location,,, got lucky and found it on my first cut but still had to mill out the aluminum tube because it wasn't,,,
The middle hinge slot was ok,,, as you can see the brass tube
The outer hinge slot is another mystery still yet to be determined [:@]
You wouldn t believe the response I got from the tech guy when I emailed him these pics,,, anyways its time to put my scratch build hat on,,, forget about this kit being an ARF,,, move the manual next to the roll of TP,,, and just build
BV
#1054
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RE: COMP ARF 110
FYI,
I thought I covered the elevator installment starting at Post # 278!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...12/key_/tm.htm
Including the exact location of hinge slots:
'The three pre-cut slots in the stab for the hinges are located (measured from the inside edge of the elevator counter weight):
outside hinge is 1 7/16".
center hinge is 8 1/16"
inside hinge is 14 11/16".'
If there's something not clear on my thread, then please update with your explanation.
I thought I covered the elevator installment starting at Post # 278!!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...12/key_/tm.htm
Including the exact location of hinge slots:
'The three pre-cut slots in the stab for the hinges are located (measured from the inside edge of the elevator counter weight):
outside hinge is 1 7/16".
center hinge is 8 1/16"
inside hinge is 14 11/16".'
If there's something not clear on my thread, then please update with your explanation.
#1056
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Bill,
My build threads are usually pretty detailed on what is being done, why and how.
(All my 'verbiage' can cure your insomnia but reading all of it should help!)
I think if you read through the entire thread and take notes in your manual and list the post numbers, you'll save yourself a lot of time.
And, then post your methods, especially, if they are different or more detail is needed.
My build threads are usually pretty detailed on what is being done, why and how.
(All my 'verbiage' can cure your insomnia but reading all of it should help!)
I think if you read through the entire thread and take notes in your manual and list the post numbers, you'll save yourself a lot of time.
And, then post your methods, especially, if they are different or more detail is needed.
#1057
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RE: COMP ARF 110
I got lucky when doing my elevators. I cut one slot wrong on the first evevator, but was able to repair the mistake. The second elevator went well. I had questions and e-mailed the factory and got no real help. The measurements for the flap hinges has an issue. The factory told me to disregardthe measurements and do what looks right. I did use the 22MM measurement from the wing trailing edge and made the flap side parallel to the wing side root. You can not measurethe 115 MM from the trailing edge of the flaps on all flaps because they get narrower as you move out the wing towards the wingtip.I measured from the wing trailing edge back on to the flap to get them all the same.
#1058
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Come on you guys, please read this complete thread. Every one of the items you two are complaining about have been covered in great detail and will save you much time and grief. I posted things that were different on my fixed wing version compared to Sam's folding wing version.
I don't get it................ the information is here and you don't take the time to read it. You would be much better off e-mailing Sam with questions rather than the factory (that is also posted here) I for one would like to thank you Sam for taking all the extra time to post in such great detail. Sure helped me.............
Didi
I don't get it................ the information is here and you don't take the time to read it. You would be much better off e-mailing Sam with questions rather than the factory (that is also posted here) I for one would like to thank you Sam for taking all the extra time to post in such great detail. Sure helped me.............
Didi
#1059
Senior Member
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Didi & Samparfitt, This one of those common issues/ instances when answers are needed for questions,,, the logical first place is to call upon the Tech Reps from the company that makes the product,,, and they failed miserably but to no fault of their own,,, well lets just say that manual really needs a complete overhaul and I'll leave that, at that. I'm sure I am not the only one thats been scratching their head,,, since this new container of planes arrived,,, saying,,, HUH?
I am only saying that from my view point here as this is my first Giant Warbird since my days of Byron Corsairs and Vally Aviation planes 15 or so years ago,,, then off to some Pylon Racing since then and now getting back into Warbirds Yes thats me, my avatar at the NATS with some NATS Trophy Wood,,, I am no stranger to competing and having the good stuff to do it with
Anyways,,, had I known the info was much more up to date, detailed and informative here,,, lets just say the company that makes this Corsair is TONS better served with using your info as its been provided here
BV
I am only saying that from my view point here as this is my first Giant Warbird since my days of Byron Corsairs and Vally Aviation planes 15 or so years ago,,, then off to some Pylon Racing since then and now getting back into Warbirds Yes thats me, my avatar at the NATS with some NATS Trophy Wood,,, I am no stranger to competing and having the good stuff to do it with
Anyways,,, had I known the info was much more up to date, detailed and informative here,,, lets just say the company that makes this Corsair is TONS better served with using your info as its been provided here
BV
#1060
Senior Member
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Here's my procedure for securing the Elev stabs to the fuse. I just couldn't bring myself to drilling thru the stab surface and into the tube hoping that the drill was nice and squared,,, as illustrated pg 33 of the "reference manual". IMOP, there's to big of an error margin and vibration from the slop that will develop using the books procedure.
I used some 10-32 x 1" machine screws and wing nuts, 1/4" ply for the stab and 1/8 ply for backing on the inside of the fuselage at the stab recess. This took all of about 5 mins to do both sides using some thick CA. The 10-32 screw is CA'd to the 1/4 ply.
These stabs are solid like they should be when bolted up,,, don t forget to apply some "Blue Loctite" to the threads before heading out to the field,,, or if your like me and want those stabs on forever, use the RED or Green Loctite
BV
I used some 10-32 x 1" machine screws and wing nuts, 1/4" ply for the stab and 1/8 ply for backing on the inside of the fuselage at the stab recess. This took all of about 5 mins to do both sides using some thick CA. The 10-32 screw is CA'd to the 1/4 ply.
These stabs are solid like they should be when bolted up,,, don t forget to apply some "Blue Loctite" to the threads before heading out to the field,,, or if your like me and want those stabs on forever, use the RED or Green Loctite
BV
#1062
Thread Starter
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RE: COMP ARF 110
guergana,
Is that the ARF version or did you install the gear doors and hinges?
The doors have a nice tight fit.
Make sure that elevator tray is secure enough as the edges don't look like they have a lot of glue, if this is the ARF version.
How's that front door secured as I don't even see a hinge line?
Is that the ARF version or did you install the gear doors and hinges?
The doors have a nice tight fit.
Make sure that elevator tray is secure enough as the edges don't look like they have a lot of glue, if this is the ARF version.
How's that front door secured as I don't even see a hinge line?
#1064
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RE: COMP ARF 110
This is not the ARF version. I did the doors and hinges. Front door not hinged yet. Just lyimg in place.The elevator tray wasn't glued whrn the pic was taken. It now has Hysol applied. i have built alot of kit planes over the years and have gotten pretty good at making things fit well.
Air system is Robart adjustable rate valves with Jet Tronic door and gear sequencer. I have 3 air tanks . Adding air cylinders for rear gear doors, operating canopy.
Just want plenty of air. I like doing lots of touch and go's and cycling gear each time. By the way I'm Mike. User name is girlfriends name. You can call me either one.
Air system is Robart adjustable rate valves with Jet Tronic door and gear sequencer. I have 3 air tanks . Adding air cylinders for rear gear doors, operating canopy.
Just want plenty of air. I like doing lots of touch and go's and cycling gear each time. By the way I'm Mike. User name is girlfriends name. You can call me either one.
#1066
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Mark,
I used all 1.5" size cylinders from UP.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to get proper door openings with the short 1" throws and it's easier to restrict the longer throws with a wheel collar or brass tubing.
I had to lay them on their sides:
Installation procedures are at post #331:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...14/key_/tm.htm
I used all 1.5" size cylinders from UP.
Sometimes, I find it difficult to get proper door openings with the short 1" throws and it's easier to restrict the longer throws with a wheel collar or brass tubing.
I had to lay them on their sides:
Installation procedures are at post #331:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...14/key_/tm.htm
#1067
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Finished the main gear doors today. Need to get longer 4-40 screws for the front doors. I made 11/4 inch wide wood support blocks to raise the front doors to match the the wings contour. I drilled the screw holes large enough to slide the screws through to the mounting screw holes. This was my worse fear. They came out looking good.
The front doors are nor screwed on in pics.Just laying in place.
The front doors are nor screwed on in pics.Just laying in place.
#1072
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RE: COMP ARF 110
Thanks for the complinent Tony on the gear doors. I have discovered a flaw in the front gear door. If you cut it along the panel line as the directions saythe gear can not be extended without damaging the front parmenant doors. These pics show the problem. You can cut them so they will work if you measure 15.5 mm from the panel line at the top of the front gear door and cut from that pointto the corner. It is marked out on one photo.
#1073
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RE: COMP ARF 110
FYI,
I used the entire panel to cover the door area.
After cutting out the area for the mains to fit, I found it easier to screw the panel over the area and use it to secure the doors.
Room was so tight that the extra thickness of the panel allowed the doors to close over the mains.
The panel also makes it easier for PM.
see post # 322 for details:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...13/key_/tm.htm
I finally see, I think, your problem:
If you hinge the front door to the cover, no binding will occur.
(you can also just cut that part off: not like anyone will see that gap when the plane is flying!).
Your front door appears fixed to the oleo whereas I have it attached to the oleo via a rotating ball link.
I used the entire panel to cover the door area.
After cutting out the area for the mains to fit, I found it easier to screw the panel over the area and use it to secure the doors.
Room was so tight that the extra thickness of the panel allowed the doors to close over the mains.
The panel also makes it easier for PM.
see post # 322 for details:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...13/key_/tm.htm
I finally see, I think, your problem:
If you hinge the front door to the cover, no binding will occur.
(you can also just cut that part off: not like anyone will see that gap when the plane is flying!).
Your front door appears fixed to the oleo whereas I have it attached to the oleo via a rotating ball link.
#1074
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RE: COMP ARF 110
You are correct that I could just cut the door and make it work with a gap. However I am somewhat a perfectionist. That gap would drive me nuts. I like for my planes to look exceptional. I plan to it as near perfect as I can. Don't get me wrong. Your idea is perfectly fine. I have seen the real thing up close and I am in aviation. The way I am installing it is the way the full scale is done. I still want to hear your input through out this build. I hope I haven't offended you in any way.
#1075
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RE: COMP ARF 110
If you don't want a gap, it seems like you'll need to use the method of hinging the top edge.
Looking at this picture, it appears that the front door is hinged at the top.
I believe they may also had rubber across that area.
a test video of my gear (shown sideways):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtTL2Mz2LWA
Looking at this picture, it appears that the front door is hinged at the top.
I believe they may also had rubber across that area.
a test video of my gear (shown sideways):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtTL2Mz2LWA