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  1. #101

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    outer wing (cont)

    ailerons (cont)
    Paul was right about needing a servo hatch for the ailerons.
    Figuring out how to do this took me awhile.

    pic 1-3:
    I thought I could use my long socket screw driver but you would need one at least a foot long so I used a razor saw and cut a servo hatch out on the inside of the rib.
    The hatch is right on the edge where the 'cloth' meets the 'aluminum' surface.
    The distance from the TE of the surface of the wing along the 'edge' is 5 1/4" and 7 3/4" for the each end of the hatch.
    This is about 1/2" from the only rib in the wing.
    The hatch is 2"X2 1/2" and is equally spaced where the original hole for the servo in the rib is located.
    The kit provided threaded control rod and clevis is 3 mm so I'll probably be replacing them and putting ball links on both ends.

    pic 4/5:
    I used 1/8" ply to make servo trays that are supported with hard wood and will be epoxied to the top of the wing so they are independent of the servo access hatch.
    I used 'L' brackets to mount the servos to the servo trays.
    These 'L' brackets are left overs from doing my Robart P-47 but you can easily make plastic one using a blue electrical box used in your dry wall in your house.
    The back support block is 7/8" high and the front support block is 1" high.
    I made the front block higher to raise the front of the servo tray to give me room to insert the control rod with the servo onto the servo tray. I also made and elongated area on the servo tray to give room for the control rod when mounting the servo.

    pic 6:
    Here's the hole for the aileron servo control horn.
    The hole is closer to the top of the wing since the control horn is near the top of the wing.
    Without this hatch, it would be virtually impossible to access that servo for future maintenance.

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  2. #102

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Sam:
    I am kind of surprised how different my wing tube version is. Here is a picture of the aileron and you can clearly that it is even with the rib. The rib follows the panel line visible on the skin of the wing. That forced me to install the aileron servo on the outside of the rib. The only way to acheive that was to cut an access panel.
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    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  3. #103

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Wow, that is strange.
    That makes no sense why they would be different.
    Maybe a few others can comment on their versions.

    =========
    I just measured my aileron and it's 20 3/8" wide.
    I'm betting that yours is the same width.
    I'm guessing that they had to move the rib out some for the folding wing mechanism.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  4. #104

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Here is what I was talking about on the wing flap. The manual shows the actuating rod running between the end rib and the outer tube support plate. Clearly I have 0 room between these two so the rod had to be on the inside of the rib. This caused the location of the attachment to the flap be moved inward. This made using the phenolic arm not possible so I just used plywood and a "t" nut. I liked that arrangement so well, I did away with all the phenolics and went direct hookup with ball joints held in place with buried "t" nuts just like the manual shows on the most inner flap.
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    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  5. #105

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    For those working on the wing tube version, here is a couple of pictures of how I made up some false ribs for the front anti-rotation pins. Don't know why they are needed cause there are already two wing tubes but oh well. Also pictured is how I constructed a wing bolt system to hold the outer panel to the center section. Per Comp-Arf, parts to complete these two processes were not included with the planes.
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    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  6. #106

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Whoops, wrong pictures.............. Here they are........
    Paul
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    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  7. #107

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    It looks like your outer rib is located right on the end where as mine is recessed in 3/4".
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  8. #108

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    outer wing (cont)

    ailerons (cont)

    pic 1-4:
    I epoxied the servo tray to the top of the wing.
    I mis-judged how much space the control rod needed so, fortunately, I was able to use a razor saw in there and cut all the way through the tray where the control rod goes (see first picture).
    I damaged the edge of the wing around the hatch but that'll be easy to repair.

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  9. #109

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Sam:
    Very nice. Just one question. Why did you chose not to install your servo in the designed location in the rib?
    Paul
    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  10. #110

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Paul,
    thanks, see post # 101.

    ==================
    Folding wing mechanism.

    Attachment to inner wing:
    The folding mechanism must not have any binding in either the wing outer arm rotation or the locking pin.
    The 'claw' of the folding mechanism fits over the spar and is held there with six bolts/locking nuts.
    These two parts match pretty close but they must be exact.
    For that reason, we will mix some epoxy with micro-balls to fill in any slop between the surfaces of the claw and spar.
    This is what we are performing in this post.

    pic 1/2:
    Here's dry run on attaching the 'claw' part of the folding mechanism to the inner wing to insure all is 'squared away'.

    pic 3/4:
    A continuation of the dry run to insure that all bolts (provided in the kit) align both with the claw and the spar holes.
    The bolts are a tight fit and a hex screw driver was needed to get most of them in.
    The tight fit is OK since we don't want any slop between the claw and spar.
    As mentioned previously, this spar is a solid 1/2" thick carbon fiber.
    Note that the bolts go in opposite directions on the top versus the bottom: this is so you can easily use a hex screw driver to turn the bolts.

    pic 5:
    I used a candle to wax the threads so the epoxy won't stick to the bolts.

    pic 6/7:
    The folding mechanism must not have any binding
    I used epoxy and micro balls to put a very thin coating on the inside of the claw and on the spar.
    I then slipped the claw over the spar only inserting all the bolts BUT DID NOT put any nuts on the bolts.
    I left the epoxy/micro-balls harden to fill in those small voids between the claw and spar.
    About half way through the drying of the epoxy, I used the hex screw driver to turn the bolts to insure they were not being 'glued in', which they weren't as the wax was doing its job.

    pic 8/9:
    Once the epoxy and micro-balls were completely hard, I attached all the locking nuts.
    After each locking nut was tightened, I manually cycled the folding mechanism to insure there was no binding and if it did, I know which bolt was causing it.

    pic 10:
    I had one bolt cause binding which is the bolt nearest the rotation pin.
    With the white micro-balls, I could easily see that I didn't put enough epoxy at that left corner spot in the picture.
    I mixed up some epoxy with no micro-balls so it would flow easily and applied the epoxy in that corner between the two surfaces of the claw and spar. I left the wing sit 'on end' so the epoxy could flow down into the crack. After it hardened I was able to tighten the nut with no binding.
    Again, I emphasis that these steps are critical as any binding in the mechanism will probably result in the folding mechanism not operating properly.





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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  11. #111

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    inner claw (cont)

    pic 1:
    I used some tape to hold the kit provided aluminum alignment tube into the FG sleeve.
    The FG sleeves on the inner wing and outer wing are already installed which will makes the two wing alignments much easier to perform.

    pic 2-6:
    A dry fit of the outer wing onto the folding wing mechanism to insure the surfaces of the inner wing align with the outer wing.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  12. #112

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wing attachment.
    The next objective is to attach the CF sleeve to the outer wing without it being glued to the folding mechanism.
    I sand papered the CF sleeve and inside of the wings and then cleaned it all up with alcohol.

    pic 1:
    First, I used a razor saw and cut out the moving panel from the outer wing.
    This will later be attached to the inner wing using hinges (hopefully!).
    This panel has to be removed so the outer wing can rotate.

    pic 2/3:
    To insure the aluminum bar does not get glued to the CF sleeve, I put some scotch tape over the two holes in the CF sleeve that we previously drilled/tapped and also put some axle grease into the tapped holes.
    I also put some light oil on the aluminum surface (just to be safe!).

    pic 4:
    I wrapped some kit provided CF string around both ends of the CF sleeve.
    I used CA to attach each end of the CF string to the CF sleeve.

    pic 5:
    The CF sleeve was then slid over the folding mechanism.

    pic 6:
    I used some Z-poxy finishing resin to seal the CF string to the CF sleeve.
    The FG string next to it was cut up from cloth and will be used in the next picture.

    pic 7:
    I mixed up epoxy, micro-balls and the cut up FG cloth and mixed the whole mess together.
    There's a good 1/8" gap between the top/bottom surfaces of the CF sleeve and the top/bottom surfaces of the wing so this very thick epoxy will keep its form (hopefully) while the we try to glue the CF sleeve to the outer wing.
    I only put the epoxy on the CF sleeve fearing that if I put any on the inside of the wing, the epoxy would get pushed back and possibly into the end of the folding wing mechanism as I pushed the wing onto the CF sleeve.

    pic 8-10:
    The epoxy 'glob' seemed to work pretty good.
    I left about a 1/16" gap between the two wings, put some foam under the wing tip and used masking tape to hold the two wings in alignment with each other.
    Now all I can do is wait for it to dry and hope it worked.
    This glue up is only the initial gluing: after it dries, I'll pull the wing off and hopefully the now glued in CF sleeve with it and re-enforce all the surfaces between the CF sleeve and inside of the wing with more epoxy and FG cloth.

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  13. #113

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wing (cont)

    pic 1-3:
    The epoxy set up real fast.
    I'm glad that I made it real thick as some of it still flowed a little bit.
    The one glob on the bottom is from me not having the wing at the exact location to the center wing so I had to move the wing forward an inch or so.
    That aileron servo tray came very close to the CF sleeve as it's only about an 1/8" away.
    One thing that I forgot to mention is to insure the folding wing mechanism is all the way down and the pin is locked when gluing on the outer wing: anything else would probably be a disaster.
    We don't get a second chance on these glue ups and buying a new wing would be very expensive, so take your time, double and triple check everything and then check again before gluing.
    No I can re-inforce this 'bad boy'.
    When I do the other wing, I'll put the wing on a level surface to insure both sides are equal distance from the floor.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  14. #114

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    Outer wing (cont)

    pic 1:
    I'm glad I pre-drilled/tapped for the outer wing bolts before epoxy'ing the CF sleeve to the wing.
    It was a piece of cake to mark the locations on the surface of the wing just above the pre-drilled holes and drill small holes there and then enlarge them to the appropriate size.

    pic 2/3:
    Here's the wing in the up position with the outer wing bolts screwed in.
    As you can see, the wing doesn't quite go in the full up position.
    The third picture shows where the outer wing is touching the folding mechanism.

    pic 4/5:
    After removing the outer wing bolts and moving the wing out a small amount, here is the wing in the completely up position.
    The bolt points to the part of the outer wing that needs a little trim.
    I'm guessing that only about a 1/16" will needed to be trimmed off.
    Since this is where the moving panel is, this should not be noticeable.

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  15. #115

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wing (cont)

    pic 1/2:
    Here's the hole I had to file to make room for the wing to completely raise.
    About a 1/4": I doubt if it'll be noticed when painted.

    pic 3:
    I also had to file the underside of the top lip of the center wing so the outer wing can rotate under it.
    It was a very small amount: just had to file a 45 degree angle for clearance.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  16. #116

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wing (cont)
    In this post, we are attaching the front folding hinge.
    The hinges are heavy 1/4" thick aluminum.
    One side of the hinge attaches to the front of the center wing and the other side of the hinge to the outer wing.
    The kit provides the bolts/blind nuts to hold the hinges to the kit provided 1/8" thick ply.
    Since the blind nuts are deeper than the ply, I put the blind nuts on backwards and epoxied them to the ply.
    I also used locktite on the bolts.

    pic 1/2:
    The larger ply goes on the outside wing since it is farther in on the wing than the ply on the inner wing.
    Left side of hinge in the picture is attached to the center wing

    pic 3/4:
    The front folding hinge must be in exact alignment with the main folding wing mechanism.
    To get proper alignment, I used a series of progressively smaller brass tubing (alignment rod) to go from the smaller diameter hole in the front folding hinge to the larger hole in the folding wing mechanism.
    I had to remove the main rotating brass rod from the folding wing mechanism so the 'alignment rod' could be inserted.
    The brass tubing was a little loose on both the front hinge and folding wing mechanism holes so I had to wrap about two layers of scotch tape around each end of the 'alignment rod' so it would fit snugly into each hole.
    I used epoxy and micro-balls to secure the ply to the wing.
    After the inside ply is dry, we can then attach the outside ply with its half of the hinge to the outer wing.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  17. #117

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wing (cont)

    Front folding hinge (cont)
    In this post, we'll install the other side of the front folding hinge.

    pic 1:
    The other side of the front folding hinge has been attached with the kit provided bolt/locking nut to the inner wing part of the hinge.

    pic 2:
    As with the main mechanism, in order for the outer wing to raise, a slot 1 5/8" long by 5/16" wide needs to be cut in the outer wing just above the front folding hinge.
    The cut is made parallel to the hinge and not perpendicular to the edge of the wing.
    A razor saw was used.
    The extra cuts near the edge of the wing is obvious in the next picture.

    pic 3:
    Extra notches are needed in the wing to clear the hex end of the bolt plus the ply and blind nut on the other side of the hinge.

    pic 4:
    Once the outer wing clears the front hinge with no binding, I attached the two bolts on the bottom of the outer wing to the main folding mechanism and put the outer wing in the raised position so I coult put epoxy and micro-balls between the ply and inner wing surface plus on the blind nuts.
    I noticed that I put the bolt in backwards to hold the two parts of the hinge together.
    This needs to be reversed since this bolt along with the two bolts holding the outer wing need to be removed when ever the outer wing is to be removed.
    I'm thinking that I should be able to make a rectangular 'panel', hinge it and attach it to the inner wing to cover up this slot.




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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  18. #118

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    Rear alignment tubing.
    This is the last part of assembling all the parts of the folding wing mechanism.
    The rear of the wing has two pre-installed FG tubes installed in the outer and inner wing.
    We need to install the kit provided aluminum tube and two inner wing ply re-enforcement 1/8" thick plys.

    pic 1:
    Since the wing rotates around an arc, I cut about a 15 degree angle on one end of the aluminum tubes.
    Cutting this angle allows the part of the tube that goes into the inner wing to be a little longer which gives us a little extra safety margin. I also rounded over the outside edges to prevent the edge of the aluminum tube from catching on the edge of the FG tube.

    pic 2:
    These soft nylon with magnets are nice to hold round objects and not scratch the item being held by the vise.

    pic 3:
    The kit provides four (two per side) 1/8" thick ply for re-enforcing the inner wing FG tube.
    Everything is, presently, dry fitted.

    pic 4:
    Here's just before the aluminum tube on the outer wing goes into the FG tube on the inner wing.
    The black line indicates how far the aluminum tube penetrates the inner wings FG tube.
    The manual says a 1/4" is enough but that angled cut gives us about twice that.
    We need the two 1/8" thick plys re-enforcing the inner wing FG tube since only about a 1/2" of the aluminum tube is engaged with the end of the FG tube.

    pic 5:
    The outer wing completely down and the alignment tube fully engaged.

    pic 6:
    Extra parts provided in the kit which aren't needed since the FG tubes are pre-installed.

    pic 7:
    The outer wing FG tube needs no extra ply re-enforcement because the aluminum tube and the FG tube are re-enforced by that second rib seen in the picture.
    The outer wing flap servo is dry fitted but we should have sufficient room for the control rod to pass by the aluminum/FG tubing.

    pic 8:
    The end of the second rib is seen in the TE of the wing where the other end of both the aluminum tube and the FG tube is located.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  19. #119

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    pic 1/2:
    Right tip of wing is 7 7/8" from floor.
    One side done (except extra epoxy on the CF sleeve), one side 'to go'.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  20. #120

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    For everyone who have already purchased the retractable tail wheel, it was shipped with a cylinder that the shaft is 1" to short. I talked to Darrell at Sierra today and he was aware of the problem and said a 1" extension has been made and sent to comp-arf for distribution. I then called Ray Labonte and he said he would get the part right out to me. What you will need to do is email him at rplabonte@aol.com, explain what you need and he will send it to you. Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

    Paul
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    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  21. #121

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Paul,
    thanks for that important info especially since, from what I read in the manual, once the tail retract and mount is epoxied in, you can't get it out.

    ===============
    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    pic 1-3:
    I used the acid brush with the dowel attached to it in the first picture to apply the extra epoxy and micro-balls to the CF sleeve.

    pic 4-5:
    Here's the wings in the 'detached' state: just three screws to remove the outer wing.
    All hydraulic lines to the folding wing mechanism are on the center wing so only two servo extensions will need to be connected at the 'field'(ailerons and flaps).
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  22. #122

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    Right outer wing:
    In this post, we'll be attaching the folding mechanism to the right side of the center wing plus securing the right outer wing to the CF sleeve.
    We'll just repeat everything we did for the left wing on the right wing.
    The one important additional step is to insure the right tip of the wing in the same height as the left wing.
    For me the height is 7 7/8" (previously I stated 8 7/8" by mistake) from a flat level surface (being my hardwood floor).

    pic 1:
    First we attached the claw to the spar:
    I checked to make sure the claw side of the folding mechanism aligned with the inner wing spar with all six bolts (threads waxed) inserted in the holes.
    I then mixed up some epoxy and micro-balls and put a thin coat on the claw and spar surfaces that will make contact with each other.
    After the epoxy dried, I put on the six locking nuts, one at a time and cycled the folding mechanism for each bolt to insure no binding.
    I had to put one bolt in the opposite of the other two because the rib on the other side was too close to the hole so I ground just enough away so the nut will fit on that side.
    As I mentioned previously, it's critical that no binding occur on the rotation or the locking sequence.

    pic 2-4:
    Next, we attach the outer wing to the CF sleeve.
    As with the left wing, I first cut out the panel that moves up (as on the prototype) on the outer wing with a razor saw.
    I rough sanded all surfaces of the CF sleeve and the inside surfaces of the outer wing and then cleaned everything with alcohol.
    I put scotch tape over the CF sleeve holes where I previous drilled/tapped and axle grease in the aluminum tapped holes, plus some light oil on all the aluminum surfaces to insure no epoxy sticks to the folding mechanism.
    I wrapped the CF string around each end of the CF sleeve using CA to hold the ends of the CF string to the sleeve.
    I then put the CF sleeve onto the outer folding mechanism's arm and used the drilled/tapped holes for alignment.
    I put the aluminum tubing in the FG tubing at the TE of the wing to insure the two wings are aligned with each other.
    I then dry fitted the outer wing to the inner wing, used some masking tape to hold the two edges of the wing that are 1/16" from each other and used some foam to prop the outer wing to 7 7/8" high at the tip.
    After the dry run looks good, I mixed up some Z-poxy finishing resin to spread on the top/bottom edges of the CF sleeve and also the inside surface of the outer wing where the CF sleeve will make contact.
    I cut up some heavy duty FG cloth into 1/2" strands: I found that cutting off a piece, 1/2" wide and then pulling off the 1/2" strands from the perpendicular long strands was a lot easier than my previous trying to cut up a bunch of small pieces with the scissors.
    I mixed up some epoxy with micro-balls and then added the FG strands and laid this thick layer along the top/bottom of the CF sleeve. The epoxy mix is thick enough that it does not run and, as on the left wing, no epoxy was put on the inside of the outer wing as it would probably get pushed back and possibly get into the end of the CF sleeve.
    Lastly, I slid the outer wing onto the CF sleeve, aligned the TE aluminum tubing into the FG tubing, aligned the two edges of the wings to 1/16" and put masking tape to hold them in place and adjusted the foam under the outer wing until the tip was 7 7/8" above the floor.
    As with the left wing, this is an initial layer of epoxy to hold the CF sleeve to the outer wing and more epoxy mix will be added, later, for additional re-enforcement.




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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  23. #123

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    Right outer wing:

    pic 1/2:
    After the epoxy dried, I pulled off the outer wing with the CF sleeve (now attached to the outer wing).

    pic 3:
    I put the outer wing back on and marked/drilled out the two holes just above the drilled/tapped holes in the folding mechanism's outer arm.

    pic 4:
    I removed the existing pivot brass bolt and put my homemade alignment brass tubes into the main mechanism and epoxied (with micro-balls) in the front rotating hinge into the inner wing.
    I put locktite on the bolts, tightened the bolts to the blind nuts (blind nuts put on backwards due to thin ply) and also put epoxy on the blind nuts when installing the ply to the inner wing.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  24. #124

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    Right outer wing (cont)

    pic 1/2:
    The other half of the front rotating hinge has been epoxied to the outer wing.

    pic 3:
    The two pieces of 1/8" ply dry fitted to the rear alignment FG tubing in the inner wing where the outer wing's aluminum tubing slips into this FG tubing.

    pic 4:
    For some unknown reason to me, I had to grind about an 1/8" off the one round edge on the right of the main folding mechanism.
    The bottom, inside surface of the outer wing was rubbing at that spot.
    I didn't see any possible weakening of the mechanism by removing this small amount of material.
    When I look at the outer wings in the down and raised position, they look identical so I'm guessing that maybe the main center spare could be slightly off center or maybe one outer wing is closer than the other outer wing to the center wing.
    I'm glad the first outer wing that I did came out perfect or I'd be second guessing myself or 'what happened'.
    No big deal as the wings and folding mechanism work great manually.
    I hope that holds true for when the hydraulics are install.
    It seems like all should work well but moving the wings at the tips of the outer wings isn't the same as having a cylinder move them from the center (but I'm expecting all to work OK).

    pic 5/6:
    That wing is huge!
    Having the most complex part done should make the rest of the assembly a 'piece of cake'.

    pic 7:
    What you see in this picture is a unblemished wing surface.
    It wasn't like that an hour ago: I accidentally dropped some finishing resin on the support foam and it stuck to the surface of the wing, which I didn't notice until all was dry. Fortunately, the wing surface is very smooth as I used lots of alcohol and my finger nail to soak the resin with alcohol and then used my finger nail to lifted it off the surface.

    pic 8:
    My Robart P-47 has five connections on each side of the wing (plus four air lines) so I've purchased some multiple pin connectors.
    The 12 pin connectors (male, female plus pins) in the left of the picture is Ashlok that I got from Dream works.
    http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...eywords=ashlok
    The 'regular' connections in the right of the picture plus 50' of 22 gauge twisted wire is from servos and stuff:
    http://stores.servosandstuff.com/StoreFront.bok
    The crimpers at the top of the picture with the 15 pin Molex connectors, my buddy, Doug Miller gave to me.
    No soldering is needed with these tools.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  25. #125

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    The horizontal stab has round access hatches on the top on the left stab and on the bottom on the right stab.
    I just learned this and here's a video to prove at least the hatches are on the top left side and none on the top right side (and I assume they are on the bottom on the right side).

    http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uMQSSE...eature=related
    G. Samuel Parfitt


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