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  1. #1301

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    Manfred,
    The pull-pull would definitely solve the lateral movement problem while in the UP position.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  2. #1302
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    RE: COMP ARF 110


    ORIGINAL: MANFRED

    Ahh Ok, I wonder if using the pull pull system would slack the lines enough when retracted to not allow any movement of the wheel.
    It does. I put the servo up under the cockpit not where the factory has it behind the cockpit. This way it is easily accessed. It is virtually impossible to service otherwise. No issues with control or the gear doors and it saves some nose weight as I always use a heavy metal gear servo for the tail wheel.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.

  3. #1303

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    I used a pull-pull system on my Z Corsair. Much smaller airplane but still 36 pounds.

    I made a pulley out of a series of servor wheels. The cable wrapped around this then to the tail wheel assembly. The pulley system was mounted on a set of rails that allowed me to adjust it to take up the slack in the cables beyond the link adjusters. I drove the pulley with a solid link to a servo. This system allowed tight cables when the TW was down and slack when retracted. It also kept the load off the servo as it only drove a push pull solid link. There is no loosining of the cables as the pulley turns.

    I've used this system on all of my big warbirds (tail draggers) and it works quite well. I even use it on pull pull rudder and elevator as there is no differential due to the arm position and it reduces the servo side loads.

    I don't have a good picture. Maybe I can model something on Solid Works.
    bentwings

  4. #1304
    MRadu's Avatar
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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    Gary,

    I'd like to add your gun lights to my Corsair. Would you send me a set for a price or a list of parts and links to buy what I need?
    RC Models are never finished, you simply stop working on them.
    The strength is knowing when. Corsair Brotherhood #83

  5. #1305

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    Elevator / Horizontal Stabilizer


    Hello, I got my green Corsair off the shelf after 1 ½ years, to start working on her. Started with the elevator.

    Question. How do you mount the carbon fiber rod into the hole of the elevator.
    The rod easily fits in, and could be glued, or screws could be used from the underside. Which is correct and the right thing to do ???

    The glue would be permanent and you would not be about to get the hinge rod out if there were a need to do so. Or did you builders use screws. The instructions just are not that clear. I reviewed Sam’s thread but he used a carbon fiber tube. Thus I am at a loss. Thanks Dr. Bill

    If you elaborate a whole lot with specific instructions I would appreciate it. And pictures.

    Here are some pictures so that you will identify what I am speaking of.
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  6. #1306

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    Dday,
    Check post # 289 for detailed instructions.
    Basically, I had to solder a brass loop on the removable brass tubing to be able to remove it and allow the elevators to be removed. This is also why I had to use new hollow CF tubing so the brass loop would fit inside the CF tubing: a screw was used to secure the CF to the elevator.
    An easier option would be to drill a hole on the outside of the stab to insert the brass rod to hold the elevator to the stab. You could then use the kit enclosed solid CF rod on the opposite end of the elevator.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  7. #1307
    tp777fo's Avatar
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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    .
    Tom Perry
    In Dog beers, I only had one!

  8. #1308

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    2013 PM check:

    Engine:
    I cleaned and lubed all the rockers and push rods and made sure the vacuum line from the engine is clear with no blockage.
    Moki 250 engine test video:
    800/3660 RPMS: perfect for this engine as it likes to run at low RPM's and produce lots of torque. The 3-blade paddle blade from solo is 32" with about a 16 pitch added. The amount of pull this engine has is incredible and is more than enough power for this plane.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGuLx...ature=youtu.be

    Folding wings:
    Before putting on the wings, I insured the mechanism worked correctly and locked in up and down positions.
    I also put some 3and1 oil on the down and lock threaded rod.
    See previous pages for complete install of down and lock: I like it much better than the old hydraulic system.
    The wires running to the outside wings are bundled together so they don't get pinched when the wing folds down.
    The bolt on the front has a nylon nut so I leave the bolt loose so the front wing hinge can freely rotate.

    Video of wing folding:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlzkp...ature=youtu.be

    Gear check:
    While cycling the gear, I also checked the CG at 6.5".
    I'm missing a ball linkage connect the front gear door to the oleo so I need to make another one; although the wind would probably do just as well since it works great on my Ziroli F6F Hellcat.







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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  9. #1309

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    RE: COMP ARF 110

    Converting the F4U from my JR 9305 to the 11X transmitter.

    There are no downloads between these transmitters so I wrote every screen down and transferred it to the 11X.
    Now comes the hard part:
    I want to have the wings ONLY fold when the gear is down and the top right toggle (MIX/HLD) is in the UP position. Easier said than done but even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile!
    First, I put the plane on a stand so I could keep the gear in the UP position while I tried many options (and I do mean many).
    Next I had to mix Aux 4 to itself (aux 4):
    hey, don't ask me why as my old transmitter had it that way: I had a JR expert do it and after awhile, he said to come back later after he 'works' on it (after that statement, I didn't feel so bad not being able to solve it).
    The pos 1 -100 and -100 and offset of +176 were also in my old transmitter so I put that in also (just call me a sheep!).
    Next I had to click on 'SW SEL' (this part I blindly found on my own).
    I had to click over until the second screen came up: GEAR 1 had to be turned on as well as MIX 0.
    The MIX 0, I believe, enabled the right top bottom toggle labeled 'MIX/HLD'.
    Last I had to go to 'DEVICE SELECT' under system:
    I assigned AUX 4 to RUDD SW. That's the 2nd toggle up on the right top labeled 'RD.D/R'.
    With the above changes, the wings will not go up if 1) the gear is up, or 2) the right top bottom toggle is down. I wanted all the wing moving toggles on the right side as this is the area that I don't access while flying.
    The right front corner toggle now engages the wings.
    (I had to charge the transmitter battery a couple times due to the length it was on!)
    Last, I put the wings down and re-binded the receiver.

    Throttle:
    I also had to adjust the throttle curve as shown to get more control at the lower end of the stick.
    RPM's at 800/3660 : just as before and the way the engine likes it.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  10. #1310

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    Re: Comp arf 110

    Corrections:
    the web site cut me off on editing the previous post way too soon so I must add this post:

    In the picture;
    The far right (far bottom) toggle is the mix toggle: down: no wing movement.
    The next toggle to it's left (above the mix toggle) is the 'wing' toggle: UP engages the wings to go up, etc.

    This should eliminate all stupid moves...hopefully!
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    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-20-2013 at 05:41 AM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  11. #1311

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    flight report:
    I put on 12 flights between Owatonna, Minn. and Fond du Lac, Wis. for a total of 16 flights.

    Daily routine:
    I have started a daily routine:
    If the folding wings are not on then the mechanism is cycled to insure it is working properly.
    I noticed that the wires to the electric motor may get pinched by the mechanism so I put duct tape (field repair) around the wires as this kept the wires straight and not likely to get into the mechanism.
    The plane is put on a stand to cycle the gear.
    The cowl is removed for PM: (only 3 screws and two servo wires for the cowl flaps so quick to do).
    I use a toothpick to put oil in the rocker's oil hole and on each end of the push rods.
    Initially, I was slopping a lot of oil on the rockers (including the valves) and push rods but my buddy Paul says that's too much.
    He's right on that as a lot of oil was coming out onto the fuse behind the cowl.
    The heads also got black from all the oil. I got some carb cleaner and cleaned up all the heads.
    Presently, I'm using chain saw oil as it clings so it should help keep the oil on the rockers and Paul thought it was a good idea.
    The bolts to the collector ring always loosen up so I tighten those.
    The push rods are checked to see that none are about to fall out and need valve adjusting.
    The clear tube from the front of the engine to the carb is checked for any grease buildup.
    My servo operated choke wasn't working and I found the mount fell off.
    I broke my cardinal rule: if anything's not working, don't fly.
    Initially, I figured the servo throw just needed adjusting so I flew the plane but it could have caused a dead stick.
    I used some wood from a veneer door for the servo mount and the epoxy held the veneer OK but the glue used to hold the veneer to the sub wood was weak. After cleaning off the old veneer and putting some 'rivet' holes in the wood, I epoxied (and screwed) the mount back to the fire wall.
    Two of the cowl flap hinges came loose so those were re-epoxied.
    One muffler extension made out of copper water pipe came off.
    Some JB weld was used to make a new one and fiber glass sleeves from auto zone for car spark plug wires was put over the piping (and wired) to protect the paint around the pipe.
    Dave Becker has a moki 400 on his Waco and he had V shaped baffles between his cylinders.
    Seems like a good idea as it would better direct the air flow to the cylinders and also less turbulence than my flat baffles so I'm going to add those to mine.
    The three engine mounts bolts needed tightening after several flights.

    Flying:
    As with my other planes, before start up, I checked all moving surfaces and, unlike my other planes, I tach the engine not only the first flight of the day but on every flight (a little anal on this bird!) to insure the 800/3700 RPM's.
    For take off, I'm using about 80% throttle until the far side of the flight pattern is reached and then I rarely go over 60% throttle.
    Flight over the runway is about 20% to get the nice gurgling sound from the engine.
    Besides horizontal figure eights, I've done rolls and 4 point rolls.
    My objective is to fly as close as possible to scale speed and still be able to perform basic aerobatics.
    The plane is very easy to take off and low angle, scale take offs are easy to do.
    Landings are also easy: Full flaps are used and 3-4 clicks of throttle to make shallow angle landings.
    I found the engine gets hot if I taxi a long distance.
    Wing folding:
    The wings have performed, flawlessly.
    The wings are lowered in the pit area, checked that they are locked by lifting up both wing tips.
    The mix toggle is put in the down position to disengage the wing mechanism.
    After landing, the mix toggle is put in the up position and the UP toggle is engaged to raise the wings, canopy is opened and then taxi back to the pits.
    The other safety device is wings cannot fold if the gear is up.

    Safety precautions:
    I've only been flying solo:
    1) if the engine dies, I want to know immediately.
    2) for me, hearing the engine run is a large part of the experience of flying the plane. To not impose on other pilots, I fly early in the morning and late in the evening.

    video of full flight at Owatonna,
    (may be a little boring as my camera only shows the plane as a speck on the back side of the flight pattern)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WL7x9CJ7tw

    low pass video:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZ5Wk...ature=youtu.be
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    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-20-2013 at 08:46 AM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  12. #1312
    tp777fo's Avatar
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    I started on mine today. Plug in wing version. I have referred back to this thread several times already. Thanks guys!
    Tom Perry
    In Dog beers, I only had one!

  13. #1313
    tp777fo's Avatar
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    Gear doors a PITA. Just ordered some offset hinges. Should be a lot easier.
    Tom Perry
    In Dog beers, I only had one!

  14. #1314
    ROGER RUSSELL's Avatar
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    Here is Sam doing his preventve maintenance, about 6:30 am

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    Remember to FLY HARD and LAND SOFT


    AMA 5288
    IMAC 3721
    IMAA 24878

  15. #1315
    tp777fo's Avatar
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    Hey you guys with the plug in wing version, can someone post some pictures of the wing showing the center section and outer wings where they join and the bolt to keep them together. My kit is missing all the wood and hardware to put the wings together. Thanks
    Tom Perry
    In Dog beers, I only had one!

  16. #1316
    andykane's Avatar
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    Tom if you are missing some parts I can try to help you.

    Andy KAne
    CARF Models
    301-785-3022

  17. #1317
    tp777fo's Avatar
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    Thanks Andy, think I solved the problem. The parts missing are the ribs that make the wing hold down and the antirotation pin. Did some of that hobby stuff and actually improvised.
    Tom Perry
    In Dog beers, I only had one!

  18. #1318

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    Tom,
    Glad to hear you got one. Post any ideas or procedures that are different so we can see other options of doing things.

    ============
    PM
    cowl adjustment:
    The top of the cowl has a sharp lip on it and it's digging into the fuse. In theory, it could cut through and cause the fire wall to fall off.
    I dremeled the lip and put some electrical tape (not sure it will hold) on it.

    Baffling:
    I had some 'pack rat' aluminum' sheeting that I saved from something and used it to cut new angled baffles for the engine.
    First, I made a paper jig. The dimensions are about 3 1/2" high, 2 1/4" each side at the bottom and 1/2" wide at the top with about a 25 degree bend in the center. I put two 1/4" wide lips on each side so I can screw them to the existing flat ply baffles, presently glued into the cowl. I also had to cut about a 3/8" high triangle area out of the bottom since the baffle rests over the curved area of the front of the cowl where the diameter becomes smaller.
    One done, 4 more to go.



    Interesting: the new stats at the bottom of the threads list how many are members versus guests: didn't realize so many are just 'observers'.
    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-23-2013 at 06:42 PM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  19. #1319

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    SEA FOAM:
    Seeing this much carbon after only 16 flights got me thinking (something I don't do too often!).
    I've talked to a couple pilots that use this along with Scott Prossen said he started using it.
    It's suppose to reduce and remove carbon build up. I got some at my local auto store and put 2 oz per gallon into my gas (still have to add your oil).
    Another friend, Paul Westrich, uses opti-2 oil. It appears Stihl company doubles their warranty if you use this oil. Pretty impressive so I'm going to also start using this. I had to google opti-2 to find a local vender which is a tool rental place.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  20. #1320

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    Baffling:
    Some wide mouth vise grips aided in making the bends in the aluminum; a lite score on the opposite side with a utility knife helped to insured a straight bend.
    I used #2X3/8" button heads to secure them to the original wood baffles and makes removal easy.
    I also used the button heads to secure the original wood baffles to the cowl, in addition to glue, to insure they don't fall off.
    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-24-2013 at 10:26 AM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  21. #1321

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    PM:
    The hot wire to one of the outer wings (ailerons) shows bare wire so I put a new connector on the end.
    While fixing the wire, I figure it wouldn't hurt to check over the entire plane.
    Both locking nuts on the outer flaps were loose.
    Aileron servos secure as were all the hinges.
    Some rust on the elevator ball link bolts but entire elevator system secure as well as the rudder.
    Wires in the tail the usual rats nest but secure.
    The servo mounted in the tail gear is working out very well.
    The mains and doors are secure and the UP sequential valve has been working great.
    No structural cracks found on the plane.
    Finally, the 12 bolts securing the the hub to the prop blades are all tight.
    (who's anal on PM!)

    With the other minor repairs on the C-45 and SBD completed, I'm just about ready to head for Muncie on Tuesday for another week of flying.
    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-24-2013 at 04:54 PM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  22. #1322

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    Here's a video that's been nicely edited and done by Brian Hacker of the F4U.
    I need to work on taxi back; the video shows the un-scale movements giving it away as a model.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERTe1bnuPck

    2nd flight of the day:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dilWbM7w1lg
    Last edited by samparfitt; 08-26-2013 at 04:25 PM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  23. #1323

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    Bummer!
    I damaged the center wing bringing the plane to land too slowly. She bounced 2-3' and fell right on the mains, ripping out the gear mount on the right side. I wanted to have a short roll out as there were some obstacles farther down the runway. I should have 'goosed' the throttle but I didn't think it would be a bad bounce. I thought just the gear folded or, at worse, the gear mount was ripped out. I was disappointed to see the top sheeting folded.

    After removing the gear, there are two main ribs glued to the CF spar, there's some aircraft ply lattice cross rib that cracked. The LE depends on the two honey combed sheeting to hold the front of the ribs.

    I checked online and a new center wing is $385 but I'm going to opt to fix the wing. I'm hoping I can insert some aircraft ply for the leading edge and glue plus screw the two ribs to the CF spar. I'll also try to do this with the left side. I'm figuring that this will be stronger than if I just buy another center wing. Without those two ribs being full length ribs, I can't be bouncing that heavy of a plane on the mains. Fortunately, I just bought 5 tubes of Hysol from dreamworks while I was at Muncie.
    Buying another center wing also may not align with my present folding wings. I'm sure they use a jig but any slight variation and the folding wing is not going to work due to binding. The folding wing mechanism is attached to the main spar so I'm figuring that the mechanism should be OK. I'll have to insure that the front hinge is in the same exact position as it was, previously.
    Last edited by samparfitt; 09-15-2013 at 11:31 AM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  24. #1324

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    Dry fit:
    I CA'ed the two cracked separations of the diagonal rib support to get the proper profile of the wing. Everything else is dry fitted to check on fit and to 'brain storm' ideas for securing the mount to the wing. It does appear that the cross rib is an important brace for the mount so I'm figuring cutting some ply to sister over the existing cross rib.
    The two ribs fit snugly into the break on the CF spar so that should get my alignment correctly so the front hinge is aligned correctly.
    There's some original gaps, especially to the gear mount, that can use hysol as there is none present at that location. The LE of the broken wing does have 1/8" aircraft ply connecting the two wood gear mounts so the front part of the cross rib is/was a weak point where I can sister some aircraft ply over the existing cross rib.
    The air cooling duct doesn't appear to be a critical support but I can put some hysol along the entire curled lip around the opening to re-enforce that area. The two half ribs supporting the gear mount is 1/8" thick aircraft ply. I would be nice to get that area wider where the ribs attach to the CF spar. Maybe some 1/4" square spruce along each side. I also need that rib area wide if I'm going to use some screws to also make a mechanical fix, along with the hysol. Just noticed that a good place for a mechanical fix is through the CF spar and into the end of the wood gear mount block rails.
    Last edited by samparfitt; 09-15-2013 at 12:22 PM.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  25. #1325
    ram3500-RCU's Avatar
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    So sorry for your damage Sam. I well know the bounce. Looks repairable.

    Keep in mind though, CARF is absolutely amazing in the precision of their parts production. That new center section WILL fit perfectly. I would bet on it. Another great thing about these birds.
    Cheers,
    Gary P. / use Steel Powder for ballast not lead. PM me for more information.


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