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  1. #201

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Center wing (cont)

    inner flaps:

    pic 1:
    Control horn for inside edge of inner flap:
    I drilled and tapped a hole the same distance from the flap hinge pivot point to the inside edge of the inner flap (1 7/8" ) as on the outer flap.
    I then screwed in some 4X40 threaded rod and left about 5/8" of the thread exposed for the heavy duty ball socket that is held on with a locking nut. I used thin CA to hold the threaded rod to the side of the flap.
    There is some ply along the inside edge of the flap (make sure you have ply there else move the hole in a little farther along the same arc of 1 7/8" but farther from the front edge of the flap.
    If you don't find any ply, cut the front of the flap away and add some ply.
    My 4X40 thread was about 3" long.

    pic 2:
    A sliding phenolic plate is used to move the center flap.
    The sliding plate is epoxied to the inner flap and the plate slides in a slot in the center flap.
    I cut slots 1/8" from the edge and the width of the sliding plate along the two edges of the flaps that mate.
    I used a heavy duty cut off disk to make the initial cut and then used some thin metal files to get the slot the same width as the plate.
    These slots should be just wide enough so no slop occurs when the plate is sliding in the slot.

    pic 3:
    Sliding plate dry fitting in the inner flap.

    pic 4:
    Dry fit between the two flaps.

    pic 5:
    Extra holes drilled into one side of the sliding plate so the epoxy can hold the plate.

    pic 6:
    I first dry fitted the plate and two flaps and put the screws into the hinges to insure all worked.
    Make sure you put the wide end of the plate towards the back of the flap on final glue up.
    Make sure you dry fit everything as my hinge holes didn't align up when the plate was in the slots: I had to sand some off the center flap to get everything to align. After the epoxy dries, I'll test it to check for any slop: if necessary, I can CA some very thin pieces of plastic on one side to remove any slop. Previously, when I epoxied the hinges to the flaps, evidently I had one hinge sticking out just a little longer than the other hinge. It's only about 1/32" but it doesn't take much since both these hinges on each mating flap are connected with the same screw.
    I also drilled two holes through the inner flap and plate so I could use two screws to hold the plate firmly into the inner flap's slot; since I'm epoxying the plate and then attaching all the parts to the wing before the epoxy dries, I don't want the plate to move out of position.
    I used epoxy and micro-balls to hold the plate to the inner flap.

    pic 7:
    Today, the festo parts that I ordered for the hydraulic wing arrived.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  2. #202

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    center wing (cont)

    Inner flaps (cont)

    pic 1/2/3:
    The sliding plate is working great.
    On surfaces that's going to get lots of stress but has a small surface area for gluing, I used two more #2 wood screws to secure the sliding plate to the inner flap.
    That's it for tonight; tomorrow, I'll get the other plate in and connect the flaps to the center flap servos.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  3. #203

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Center wing (cont)

    inner flaps(cont)
    (left side)

    pic 1:
    Slots cut and dry fitted as was done on the right flaps.

    pic 2:
    Sliding plate epoxied in while mounted on center wing.

    pic 3:
    Two #2 button head screws used to re-enforce the sliding plate to the inner flap.
    I rounded over all the edges on the sliding plate to reduce any snagging.

    pic 4:
    A rectangular hole cut into the TE of the center wing for the flap linkage control rod.

    pic 5:
    I also sanded a 30 degree bevel along the inside edge of the top and bottom part of the wing to keep the flap surfaces from rubbing on the edge of the wing.

    pic 6/7:
    Flaps in neutral position.

    pic 8/9:
    50% throw.

    pic 10/11/12:
    full flaps.
    Later, I'll try some india ink to stain the sliding plates else they will have to remain brown as paint will probably interfere with the movement (plus the paint will probably just scrap off, anyway).

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  4. #204

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Center wing (cont)

    inner flaps (cont)

    pic 1:
    HS-645 (133 oz) servos used on each side of the flaps on the inner wing.
    As with the outer wing flaps, the largest servo arm in the servo box was used and a dubro heavy duty ball socket with locking nut was used. Three Y connects are needed (one a servo reverser) to operate all six flaps.


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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  5. #205

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Sam,

    Are you sure that the 133 oz inch servo is enough for the high drag the flaps get? I am using HS7955TG servos on all my control surfaces and your Corsair isn't that much smaller than mine. The 7955's are 333 oz inch. I don't know your set up but mine are 2 servos per side for the flaps. The 2 inner flaps run off one and the larger outside flap runs off another one. How is yours set up? If your just running one flap I still think I'd go with a little heavier servo.

    JMHO,

    Barry
    Barry - Owner of Canopy Rails For Warbirds

  6. #206

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Barry,
    I hadn't built a fighter this big before so I emailed several of my pilot buddy's who build very large warbirds and they said my servo sizes are good.
    My total torque is 532 oz for the flaps.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  7. #207

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    pic 1:
    In this post, we are 'running' the hydraulic lines.
    (I found out that the pump voltage is 6-8 volts)
    I cut equal lengths 3mm tubing to the far side (up) festo fitting in the oil cylinder and to the inside (down) festo fitting in the oil cylinder.
    I looped the tubing inside the mechanism to protect it from any wear.
    Presently, I used some scotch tape to hold the tubing in place as I think my plastic ties are out in the detached shop (where it's about zero degrees: 'forget it' for now!).

    pic 2:
    There is a slot at the top of the rib and just behind the claw part of the mechanism so I ran the tubing through that slot.

    pic 3/4:
    The 3mm tubing goes into two T festo fittings for each cylinder, another 3mm tubing comes out the bottom of the T and goes into a 3mm to 4mm conversion festo fitting. Some clear 4mm tubing then connects the conversion festo fitting to the UP/DOWN outlets in the oil valve.

    pic 5:
    The very long tubing is needed for filling the baby oil into the system.
    The long clear tubing coming out the oil valve is the back drain line and goes to the oil reservoir.
    The oil valve side is 4mm and the oil reservoir is 6mm so a 4-6mm conversion festo fitting is needed in that route.
    Probably tomorrow, I'll be taking this bad boy down into the basement to begin the 'testing', in case of any oil leaks, it'll just go onto the basement cement floor in the laundry room.



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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  8. #208

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    pic 1/2:
    In this post, we are filling the system with baby oil and testing the folding wing mechanism.
    I disconnected the pump side line and put an extension line into a fresh bottle of baby oil (Johnson & Johnson).
    I also disconnected the back drain line and ran an extension line to the plastic pail for air/oil to escape.
    I put everything into a plastic pail in case I knocked over the baby oil bottle.

    pic 3:
    I used my hand retract air pump to pump 3-4 lbs of air into the accumulator.
    The accumulator has a one way festo fitting for the air to be inputted.

    pic 4:
    I then turned on the electrical switch to the pump but the pump wouldn't pull the baby oil out of the bottle with air in the line going to the pump so I had to use the kit provided hypo needle to turn on the pump and then push oil into the line. I had to have the pump running before pushing the hypo needle because the air in the line prevented me from just pushing on the hypo needle without the pump running.
    After I manually moved the oil valve each way 3 or 4 times, the oil reservoir was about 3/4 full.
    To remove the air in the reservoir and have it full of oil (with no air), I then used the hypo needle to fill up the rest of the reservoir while the reservoir was disconnected from the system.
    I ran extension lines to have the oil reservoir into the tank to prevent any overflow of oil from getting on the plane.
    The manual says to put in the baby oil AFTER painting the plane (NO WAY: I've got to see if this sucker works!).
    Anyway, needless to say, I got the oil on my hands and they are right: that stuff is hard to get off.
    I got a few drops on a flap so I'll probably have to use something not too strong of a solution, like turpentine, to remove the residue.

    pic 5:
    I used a paper bag to protect the wing while transferring the reservoir to the service tray and removing the line extensions.
    I used some fuel dots to keep the oil from coming out of the lines while in transfer.
    I still got a few bubbles in the reservoir but I think that will be OK.
    I also put a little bit too much oil in the reservoir and it's a little fat for the two plastic protection covers that come with it.
    I'll probably drain off some oil, later on.

    pic 6:
    The system is set up.
    The baby oil is clear but the reservoir has a beige color.
    I noticed that the pump had some oil in it so that must of been the color of oil that the factory used to test the pump.

    Here's the initial video of testing the wing folding mechanism:
    The pump turns on and off, several times in each cycle and doesn't run continuously (you can hear it in the video).
    I'm not sure if it's due to some air bubbles in the lines or I have the improper amount of air pressure in the accumulator.
    I'm guessing the air pressure is incorrect.
    I'll check that out, later.
    I used a 6 volt/ 1400ma battery pack and the accumulator automatically turns off the pump once equal pressure is achieved in the accumulator.
    At least it works!

    http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/compa...wingtest01-AVI
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  9. #209

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Nice Sam, should be fun to taxi out and fold 'dim wings down. Does it use a locking pin similar to the full sclae that is cylinder actuated?

    Jeff
    Where's my glue....I gotta build!
    Spitfire Bro #108

  10. #210

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Thanks Jeff,
    Darrell used the same type of mechanism as on his retracts: The sliding T that connects to the cylinder rod rides in an L shape curve in the sides of the frame. Very simple but strong and effective.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  11. #211

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Hi Sam-Just wanted to say 'Thanks' for doing such a detailed thread-It sounds like the C-Arf instructions are rather vague, with the builder having to figure out the bulk of the install. This plane is on my future 'wish list' and this thread will be very valuable to anyone building one. Regards-Mike Oberst

  12. #212

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    thanks Mike,
    fyi, the way that the economy is going, my viewpoint is that if a lot of models are not already made at the factory, the importer will probably cancel all new orders and we're going to see few new products for the next few years (I hope that I'm wrong!).

    ==================

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    I re-read the manual and it says that the pump is suppose to cycle on/off about every one second so no adjustments are needed on my system (when all else fails, READ the instructions!).
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  13. #213

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    folding wing mechanism (cont)

    outer wings (cont)

    pi 1/2:
    The two bolts used to hold the wing to the outside part of the folding mechanism was crushing the wing surface so I wrapped some scotch tape around the bolts to keep the epoxy off the bolts and keep the holes from filling up, and then put epoxy with micro-balls in the gap between the bottom wing surface and the outer wing sleeve.

    pic 3/4:
    I also mixed up some more epoxy with micro-balls and strands of FG cloth and filled in the rest of the gaps along the wing and outer wing sleeve.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  14. #214

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    wing folding mechanism (cont)

    pic 1:
    test run #2 video with outer wings attached.
    This video is without the wings on all the way, minus the wing bolts and front alignment bolt.
    The oil pressure isn't as strong as I thought it would be.
    The wings wouldn't move when all three bolts were attached.
    When I put my hand on the outer folding mechanism, I can hold it down without much pressure.
    I pumped up some more air into the accumulator and that seemed to help a little.
    Possibly, there's still some air bubbles in the lines.
    Also, I was told 6-8 volts for the pump and I'm using 6 volts: wonder if the 8 volts would make the pump stronger!
    Well, at least it looks cool in the video!


    http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/F4Uco...dingtest02-AVI
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  15. #215

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Sam, as usual fantastic build thread on an awesome fighter. The Corsair is probably my all time favorite ever since I got my 1 st. one for Christmas in the early 50's. Wenmac .049 control line. Half a lap and destroyed but I was hooked for life. LOL. Anyway , I enjoy your build and your many pics and commentary. Can't wait to see it finished.
    Thanks,
    Fred Menna Check6

  16. #216

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Yo Fred,
    It'll be awhile before it's finished since I have to wait until it's warm out before painting her plus I presently don't have the $$$ to get a radial.

    ========
    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    I just talked to my buddy Joe, who works on hydraulic cranes, and he thinks I probably have some air bubbles in the line.
    He had me try moving the outer mechanism and I could move them and he said that indicates bubbles are probably in the cylinders.
    I know my auto brakes don't work until I bleed them and get all the air out of the lines.
    Another possibility is too small of lines to the cylinders: if needed, I can run 4mm lines and put a conversion festo connector just before the end of the cylinders and going to 8 volts wouldn't hurt.
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  17. #217

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Folding wing mechanism (cont)

    OK folks, now the wing is working with all 6 bolts put into the wings.
    They say you are insane when you try the same thing again without any changes!
    I had both wings bolted on this time and the right one didn't work (initially, I tested only the right wing).
    I removed it and noticed the outside line sticking out and it appears that the sleeve was pinching it.
    I taped the line so it stays inside the aluminum frame and all is working now.
    Also, it's possible that any air bubbles may have migrated to the reservoir and the pump purged all bubbles from the lines!
    All I know is I am now 'one happy camper'!: it's fun just throwing the oil valve and watching this baby go up and down!
    G. Samuel Parfitt

  18. #218

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Excellent explanation sir. Without the retracts, you are going to run out of things to do pretty quick. If you are short on funds, you might consider just getting the taiwheel assembly. This will allow you to finish the tail assembly which is also pretty involved. The Sierra retracting tailwheel must be generic because I have seen in on several other Corsair threads so a guy could probably purchase it from Darrell direct depending on how you worded it, if you get my drift.

    I am getting ready to install the motor and waiting for the cockpit kit, have you heard anything from them?

    Paul
    Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!!!

  19. #219
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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Hey Sam

    Very nice built!!! Welldone as it is an expensive and a difficult project for anyone who is involved.
    I am following your thread from the start and I can tell you that I am amazed from your plane. Looking foreword to see it finished and flown in the sky.
    (Your video says a lot about your building skills and rewards your efforts.)
    I happen to own a Comp Arf P-51 Mustang and I can tell you that I was amazed from the quality of the kit and the hardware that was inside.
    Keep the faith mate and I wish you'll get the funds for the motor soon enough to have it ready by this year!
    Kind regards
    J.R.
    www.petame.gr
    Panhellenic R/C Modelling Union - Hermes

  20. #220

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Paul and Johnnie:
    I just emailed Brian at Dbalsa on when the cockpit will be ready.
    I wouldn't mind getting one of those P-51's but my 'plate' is, presently, full and my wallet isn't!

    ======================================
    cockpit

    pic 1:
    Speaking of cockpits, I thought I'd cut away some of the FG from the cockpit frame.
    Here's the way it comes in the kit.

    pic 2:
    Here's the results after using some of the tools shown in the pictures.

    pic 3/4/5:
    I almost cut the FG away on the top of the canopy frame but thought I'd better check pictures first.
    I'm glad I waited as it appears that section is solid in these full size plane pictures (Probably for 'bullet' protection!).
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  21. #221

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Cockpit (cont)

    pic 1:
    I taped the FG frame to the clear plastic canopy and used a felt market to outline the frame onto the canopy.

    pic 2:
    Since I'll be taking the FG frame off the clear canopy, I only put in enough #0X3/16" screws to hold the two parts together.
    Next, I'll need to cut/screw some 1/16" ply along the seam where the back of the canopy slides back from the front stationary part of the canopy.

    fyi:
    After cycling the wings probably 20 times, I recharged the 6 volt, 1400 ma battery pack and it only took 36 minutes and 340 ma to fully re-charge so the pump appears to be a pretty low power drain source.

    fyi:
    Brain emailed me that my kit went out this afternoon.
    Since he's only two states away, I should get it Wednesday or Thursday.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  22. #222

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    cockpit (cont)

    Sliding canopy

    pic 1:
    In this post, we need to put a piece of 1/16" ply secured to the moving section of the canopy which will align with the front stationary part of the canopy.
    I used some print paper to make a template that mirrors the FG frame where the two parts of the canopy meet.

    pic 2:
    The template is traced onto the 1/16" thick ply: cross grain so the ply will bend around the canopy.

    pic 3:
    I used some #0X3/8" flat head screws to hold the ply to the sliding part of the canopy.

    pic 4:
    In this picture we can see why we connect the 1/16" thick ply to the sliding part of the canopy since the canopy slants downward, which will allow the overlapping ply to slide under the stationary part of the canopy.

    pic 5:
    In order to insure that the stationary part of the canopy is correctly aligned with the moving part, I screwed the stationary part to the fuse. Now, I have to remove all the screws and disassemble everything so I can cut along the canopy frame and the clear plastic canopy.

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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  23. #223

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    Cockpit (cont)

    Sliding canopy (cont)

    pic 1:
    After removing the 1/16" ply and all the screws from the moving part of the FG frame, the two halves of the canopy frame was cut using a razor saw.

    pic 2:
    I then used small curved tin snips to cut the clear canopy along the back edge of the stationary part of the canopy.

    pic 3:
    I then ground off the bottoms of the #0 screws that were sticking out on the stationary part of the canopy: this will allow the 1/16" ply to slide under the front canopy.

    pic 4:
    The front stationary canopy screwed back onto the fuse into the existing holes.

    pic 5-7:
    The back moving part of the clear canopy, FG frame and 1/16" thick ply was screwed back together and test fitted to the front stationary part of the canopy.
    Next will be making up the slide mechanism for the back sliding part of the canopy.
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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  24. #224

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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY

    cockpit (cont)

    Sliding canopy (cont)
    The sliding canopy will require four brass channel assemblies to move the canopy.
    In this post two of the brass channel assemblies will be made that go on each side of the cockpit.
    See my threads on either building the Yellow AT-6 or assembling the Robart ARF P-47 for making the brass channels.

    pic 1:
    The 3/16" square brass channels with a groove down the middle is used on each side of the cockpit.
    The cockpit width is 6" plus I added 1 1/8" extra (5/8" on each end) on the channel for mounting to the side of the fuse.
    A 5/32" square brass channel was used to slide inside the 3/16" brass channel.
    The 5/32" square brass channel was cut about 5/8" long.
    A 1/8" hole was drilled on one end to house the dubro #181 2-56 threaded ball link (which will be connected to the canopy).
    The other end was drilled/tapped a #0X80 hole.
    A great planes GPHQ3835 2-56 threaded rigging coupler was also drilled/tapped for a #0X80 hole.
    A #0X80 machine screw was then used to connect the rigging coupler to the 5/32" square channel.

    pic 2:
    The 5/32" brass channel assembly can now slide along the 3/16" brass channel and the ball link will be screwed to the canopy.
    Later, a sullivan gold-n-rod will be connected to the other end of the rigging coupler.

    pic 3/4/5:
    #0X3/8" pan head screws used to hold each channel assembly to the cockpit.

    pic 6:
    The cockpit narrows at the rear but the sliding part of the canopy is flexible so the canopy shouldn't bind when it's opens (hopefully!).


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    G. Samuel Parfitt

  25. #225
    dbarrym's Avatar
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    RE: COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY


    ORIGINAL: samparfitt

    Paul and Johnnie:
    I just emailed Brian at Dbalsa on when the cockpit will be ready.
    I wouldn't mind getting one of those P-51's but my 'plate' is, presently, full and my wallet isn't!
    FWIW, I got a call yesterday AM from Dynamic Balsa - they shipped one cockpit kit already (Sams?) and mine should ship today, so they are available now.

    Sam, thanks for doing the R&D and documenting the process for the sliding canopy!

    Barry


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