COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
05-29-2015, 06:34 AM
#1401
PM (cont)
Engine:
Checked all engine mount bolts.
Carb cleaner to spray the carbon off the valves and keep the engine clean.
Some chain saw oil works well for me as it stays on the moving parts. A drop or two on the push rod ends and the oil hole in each rocker.
Engine PM routine:
After each flyin, some carb cleaner to clean up the carbon and a few drops of oil.
The usual looseness of the nuts on the exhaust ports needed tightening.
Sent my wing motor assemblies to Mitch at Down and Lock: free motor update (can't beat the service).
Engine:
Checked all engine mount bolts.
Carb cleaner to spray the carbon off the valves and keep the engine clean.
Some chain saw oil works well for me as it stays on the moving parts. A drop or two on the push rod ends and the oil hole in each rocker.
Engine PM routine:
After each flyin, some carb cleaner to clean up the carbon and a few drops of oil.
The usual looseness of the nuts on the exhaust ports needed tightening.
Sent my wing motor assemblies to Mitch at Down and Lock: free motor update (can't beat the service).
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-29-2015 at 06:37 AM.
07-20-2015, 04:42 AM
#1403
Wing mechanism.
Installed the moving part with the new motor and jack screw.
Couldn't get the screws off to remove the motor for installing the rotating brass pin so I just ran the motor to get the shaft end out far enough to assemble the parts.
Key items are:
1. jack screw flush or just below the top of the pivot pin in the up position.
2. shaft flush or lower to the brass pin
3. gap between motor and pivot pin in the down position.
4. cam covering the pin in the up position.
5. motor wire is on the closed side of the frame.
Installed the moving part with the new motor and jack screw.
Couldn't get the screws off to remove the motor for installing the rotating brass pin so I just ran the motor to get the shaft end out far enough to assemble the parts.
Key items are:
1. jack screw flush or just below the top of the pivot pin in the up position.
2. shaft flush or lower to the brass pin
3. gap between motor and pivot pin in the down position.
4. cam covering the pin in the up position.
5. motor wire is on the closed side of the frame.
07-24-2015, 08:09 AM
#1404
Air leak:
Took all afternoon to located and fix not one but two leaks.
First one:
Air valve to moveable canopy.
Unusual for an air valve to leak but after blocking off the two exit nipples, air was coming out of the needle valve. I put BVM thin lube oil in the lines so it makes it a lot easier to locate problems.
Robart has an air system kit and I replaced the three O rings. Hard to get off so I just snipped them after raised one side and used some medical clamps to spread the O ring to get them back on.
The new O rings fixed that link.
Second one:
Found it to be the right main gear.
I cut the lines and put some quick connects in so I could easily add O ring oil.
That appears to have fixed all leaks as it held 100 lbs overnight.
Each cycle only took 10 lbs of pressure using two large tanks.
Found one of the wing's LE CF dowels loose. Some thick CA fixed it.
Engine high RPM's too high.
Started up the engine and it clocked 4120 rpm's. Way too high as, last season, the prop tips were starting to 'rip'.
Tic marked the hub and props and moved the blades just about a 1/16" and she's now doing 3670 rpm's.
Took all afternoon to located and fix not one but two leaks.
First one:
Air valve to moveable canopy.
Unusual for an air valve to leak but after blocking off the two exit nipples, air was coming out of the needle valve. I put BVM thin lube oil in the lines so it makes it a lot easier to locate problems.
Robart has an air system kit and I replaced the three O rings. Hard to get off so I just snipped them after raised one side and used some medical clamps to spread the O ring to get them back on.
The new O rings fixed that link.
Second one:
Found it to be the right main gear.
I cut the lines and put some quick connects in so I could easily add O ring oil.
That appears to have fixed all leaks as it held 100 lbs overnight.
Each cycle only took 10 lbs of pressure using two large tanks.
Found one of the wing's LE CF dowels loose. Some thick CA fixed it.
Engine high RPM's too high.
Started up the engine and it clocked 4120 rpm's. Way too high as, last season, the prop tips were starting to 'rip'.
Tic marked the hub and props and moved the blades just about a 1/16" and she's now doing 3670 rpm's.
Last edited by samparfitt; 07-24-2015 at 08:14 AM.
12-23-2015, 10:52 AM
#1408
Moki 250 PM.
My moki 250 just arrived via UPS.
After having the P-47's moki PM'ed, Jon at TBM said I had carbon buildup, so I sent in the F4U's engine for PM. He said this one also had carbon buildup.
Jon says:
MY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OIL ARE ANY GOOD SYNTHITIC OIL THAT MEETS ISO/JASO XD OR HD SPECIFICATIONS. WE USE REDLINE OR ECHO OIL. ALSO I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING ANY ADDITIVE.
I found that Home Depot sells Echo oil so I bought some:
My previous oil must be OK for the 2 stroke, 1 cylinders engines but not for the Moki's.
I'll be following Jon's advise for the oil.
He used 501 ratio gas/oil (2.6 oz per gallon).
My moki 250 just arrived via UPS.
After having the P-47's moki PM'ed, Jon at TBM said I had carbon buildup, so I sent in the F4U's engine for PM. He said this one also had carbon buildup.
Jon says:
MY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OIL ARE ANY GOOD SYNTHITIC OIL THAT MEETS ISO/JASO XD OR HD SPECIFICATIONS. WE USE REDLINE OR ECHO OIL. ALSO I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING ANY ADDITIVE.
I found that Home Depot sells Echo oil so I bought some:
My previous oil must be OK for the 2 stroke, 1 cylinders engines but not for the Moki's.
I'll be following Jon's advise for the oil.
He used 501 ratio gas/oil (2.6 oz per gallon).
04-30-2016, 04:40 AM
#1411
Bummer.
Sounds like you went to idle. I find it best to keep 2-4 clicks of throttle while landing, trying not to use the elevator but rather the throttle to control landing.
I had to use some JB weld to fix my exhaust. If it stops raining, I'll do an engine test. The air seems to be holding much better with the thin lube added.
Sounds like you went to idle. I find it best to keep 2-4 clicks of throttle while landing, trying not to use the elevator but rather the throttle to control landing.
I had to use some JB weld to fix my exhaust. If it stops raining, I'll do an engine test. The air seems to be holding much better with the thin lube added.
04-30-2016, 07:20 AM
#1412
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Bummer.
Sounds like you went to idle. I find it best to keep 2-4 clicks of throttle while landing, trying not to use the elevator but rather the throttle to control landing.
I had to use some JB weld to fix my exhaust. If it stops raining, I'll do an engine test. The air seems to be holding much better with the thin lube added.
Sounds like you went to idle. I find it best to keep 2-4 clicks of throttle while landing, trying not to use the elevator but rather the throttle to control landing.
I had to use some JB weld to fix my exhaust. If it stops raining, I'll do an engine test. The air seems to be holding much better with the thin lube added.
05-09-2016, 12:28 PM
#1413
PM done.
All seems to be working well.
Cycled the wings again and the new, larger motors and jack screw seem to be working fine.
Put some axle grease on the mains.
Put a few drops of chain saw oil on rockers and rods.
Getting 3440 RPM's with the solo 32" 3-blade paddle prop.
Put the cowl on and she's ready to 'rock-n-roll'.
All seems to be working well.
Cycled the wings again and the new, larger motors and jack screw seem to be working fine.
Put some axle grease on the mains.
Put a few drops of chain saw oil on rockers and rods.
Getting 3440 RPM's with the solo 32" 3-blade paddle prop.
Put the cowl on and she's ready to 'rock-n-roll'.
06-20-2016, 02:48 PM
#1414
Repair;
A few seasons ago, I damaged the center wing and fixed it internally but not externally, mainly because I was unfamiliar with carf's composite surface versus good old fashion balsa.
After talking to Jon, I started the repair.
First, I used resin to attach CF cloth to the inside of the wings, top and bottom, both sides. There is a rib going at a 45 degree angle and this entire inner wing surface area was covered with CF cloth.
Next, the bulge was pretty high, so I used a razor saw to cut the bulge along the center so it would lay down. Next, a bunch of 1/16" holes were drilled on both sides of the bulge (top surface only) and lots of thin CA was wicked into the holes while holding down the top layer that was delaminated from the sub surface.
Finally, some easy sand was applied and wet sanded for a smooth surface.
Next, some primer to find errors.
A few seasons ago, I damaged the center wing and fixed it internally but not externally, mainly because I was unfamiliar with carf's composite surface versus good old fashion balsa.
After talking to Jon, I started the repair.
First, I used resin to attach CF cloth to the inside of the wings, top and bottom, both sides. There is a rib going at a 45 degree angle and this entire inner wing surface area was covered with CF cloth.
Next, the bulge was pretty high, so I used a razor saw to cut the bulge along the center so it would lay down. Next, a bunch of 1/16" holes were drilled on both sides of the bulge (top surface only) and lots of thin CA was wicked into the holes while holding down the top layer that was delaminated from the sub surface.
Finally, some easy sand was applied and wet sanded for a smooth surface.
Next, some primer to find errors.
07-10-2016, 03:28 PM
#1415
Engine exhaust:
The exhaust heat burned the CF cloth so I put a piece of aluminum sheeting on the fire wall.
Silver soldered the 3/4" copper water pipe extension exhausts.
Wing repair:
Applied 2 part primer, sanded and added rivet detail.
Did the other side.
The exhaust heat burned the CF cloth so I put a piece of aluminum sheeting on the fire wall.
Silver soldered the 3/4" copper water pipe extension exhausts.
Wing repair:
Applied 2 part primer, sanded and added rivet detail.
Did the other side.
08-04-2016, 05:29 AM
#1418
ROAD TRIPS 2016:
Since this thread allows pictures to be posted, I've moved 'road trips 2016' to here.
Yesterday, while I visited my home town of Cleveland, I stopped by Sierra Giant Scale retracts to see their shop, Darrell and Tim.
http://www.sierragiant.com/
The shop is located south of Cleveland, just off I-71.
I was impressed by all the cool heavy duty laths, milling machines and CNC machines.
Lots of space for all their equipment as, besides making RC gear, they make stuff for other manufacturers, such as Timken; a roller bearing company that has been around at least since the 30's.
The shop:
Tim and Darrell. There are about 8 employees.
Some of the laths and CNC machines. The laths and milling machines date from the 80's while the CNC machines are contemporary (this century). The laths and milling machines are to make jigs.
In go the blanks, out comes the product:
Some of the raw stock:
The results: P-51 lower strut. Not as easy as just slapping in a piece of metal into a CNC machine and out pops a part. Lots of parts need jigs made up. The CNC only the top half of the P-51 part, at a time; the table that holds the part, then needs to be thoroughly cleaned to insure the flipped over part is properly positioned so the other half can now be milled. Some stray metal particles on the table will result in the two halves not lining up.
Extra metal on each end is needed to secure the parts for each milling process.
A large rack from floor to ceiling on one end of the building has all the finished products.
Besides aluminum, mostly for our RC stuff, steel is used for other manufacturers. There's all kinds of goodies on those racks: Everything from gears to FG fuses for a 120" T-28. Tim showed me the jig being used to make the gear for the Bates wildcat F4F.
They have a whole rack just for jigs. Amazing they don't have to label them as, just be looking at them, they know what gear they are for.
The whole time I was there, everyone was very busy, including Darrell. That's a lot of work, standing on your feet all day, setting up equipment and running it.
Since this thread allows pictures to be posted, I've moved 'road trips 2016' to here.
Yesterday, while I visited my home town of Cleveland, I stopped by Sierra Giant Scale retracts to see their shop, Darrell and Tim.
http://www.sierragiant.com/
The shop is located south of Cleveland, just off I-71.
I was impressed by all the cool heavy duty laths, milling machines and CNC machines.
Lots of space for all their equipment as, besides making RC gear, they make stuff for other manufacturers, such as Timken; a roller bearing company that has been around at least since the 30's.
The shop:
Tim and Darrell. There are about 8 employees.
Some of the laths and CNC machines. The laths and milling machines date from the 80's while the CNC machines are contemporary (this century). The laths and milling machines are to make jigs.
In go the blanks, out comes the product:
Some of the raw stock:
The results: P-51 lower strut. Not as easy as just slapping in a piece of metal into a CNC machine and out pops a part. Lots of parts need jigs made up. The CNC only the top half of the P-51 part, at a time; the table that holds the part, then needs to be thoroughly cleaned to insure the flipped over part is properly positioned so the other half can now be milled. Some stray metal particles on the table will result in the two halves not lining up.
Extra metal on each end is needed to secure the parts for each milling process.
A large rack from floor to ceiling on one end of the building has all the finished products.
Besides aluminum, mostly for our RC stuff, steel is used for other manufacturers. There's all kinds of goodies on those racks: Everything from gears to FG fuses for a 120" T-28. Tim showed me the jig being used to make the gear for the Bates wildcat F4F.
They have a whole rack just for jigs. Amazing they don't have to label them as, just be looking at them, they know what gear they are for.
The whole time I was there, everyone was very busy, including Darrell. That's a lot of work, standing on your feet all day, setting up equipment and running it.
Last edited by samparfitt; 08-04-2016 at 06:46 AM.
08-04-2016, 07:09 AM
#1419
Air cylinder grease:
While at Darrell's, I picked up some grease and applicators.
Put some grease in one end and work the cylinder several times, insuring the air nipple holes are not clogged which will prevent the air from going into the cylinders.
Cylinders are not made to be taken apart so don't try; best to send them in, if problems.
While at Darrell's, I picked up some grease and applicators.
Put some grease in one end and work the cylinder several times, insuring the air nipple holes are not clogged which will prevent the air from going into the cylinders.
Cylinders are not made to be taken apart so don't try; best to send them in, if problems.
08-05-2016, 06:22 PM
#1420
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Nice Bird, Very nice.
Curious how you liked the Behr paint. I never liked it because it always felt like it never dried or hardened no matter where i used it. Never seen it used on a plane
Curious how you liked the Behr paint. I never liked it because it always felt like it never dried or hardened no matter where i used it. Never seen it used on a plane
stuff:
pic 1:
On Monday, I went to home depot and got my paint.
I'm going with the Marine's three color scheme.
The premium Behr exterior is no longer in quart cans so I bought a gallon and put it into four quart cans so it won't dry out when I have half of it left in the can (this plane will probably use two quarts, anyway!).
pic 2/3/4:
Looks like the only cockpit option is with D-balsa 1/4 scale Don Smith kit:
The Smith kit is 1/4 scale versus comparf's 1/4.5 but that should be close enough!
http://www.dbalsa.com/
pic 1:
On Monday, I went to home depot and got my paint.
I'm going with the Marine's three color scheme.
The premium Behr exterior is no longer in quart cans so I bought a gallon and put it into four quart cans so it won't dry out when I have half of it left in the can (this plane will probably use two quarts, anyway!).
pic 2/3/4:
Looks like the only cockpit option is with D-balsa 1/4 scale Don Smith kit:
The Smith kit is 1/4 scale versus comparf's 1/4.5 but that should be close enough!
http://www.dbalsa.com/
08-07-2016, 08:04 AM
#1422
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PM done.
All seems to be working well.
Cycled the wings again and the new, larger motors and jack screw seem to be working fine.
Put some axle grease on the mains.
Put a few drops of chain saw oil on rockers and rods.
Getting 3440 RPM's with the solo 32" 3-blade paddle prop.
Put the cowl on and she's ready to 'rock-n-roll'.
All seems to be working well.
Cycled the wings again and the new, larger motors and jack screw seem to be working fine.
Put some axle grease on the mains.
Put a few drops of chain saw oil on rockers and rods.
Getting 3440 RPM's with the solo 32" 3-blade paddle prop.
Put the cowl on and she's ready to 'rock-n-roll'.
Lots of great info on this thread!
PM's are so important in the industry I work in. Most guys hate doing them but they can save lots of time and money. Visual PM's are important as well.
I like the way you went from construction, to operation and included the importance of PM's.
Those machine shop pics bring back a lot of memories. They also remind me of the fact that we are loosing a lot of machinist who can operate conventional machining equipment. With CNC machining programming is key as well as tooling but not everyone who operates a CNC can turn a lathe or operate a mill. We are loosing a lot of those old timers and not enough are coming in behind them. There will always be a need for conventional machining. Hats off to Tim and Darrel!
Notice he chose to pose next to the Bridgport rather than the CNC...Trust me that was not coincidental!
BTW, if you make parts for Timken, you earned my respect!
Great thread....
Very well done!
Last edited by AC2; 08-07-2016 at 08:10 AM.
08-08-2016, 04:36 AM
#1423
AC2,
I treat each flight as I was getting in the plane: all surfaces are checked for proper movement.
Each morning at a flyin, the plane is put on a stand and the gear is cycled plus all moving surfaces are checked.
I want the plane to crash due to 'dumb thumbs' versus mechanical.
Tim said Timken was having parts break from one supplier until they switched to Giant Sierra.
Tim said Timken had some job openings: 200 applied and the bulk of them failed due to skill level and the rest failed due to failing the drug test. Not sure why people want to dump foreign substances into their bodies: a lot of my age group thought it freed up the mind in the 60's. They finally realized it was stupid and they are wiser now. It's sad that each generation can't learn from past history. You're only issued one body and it has to last a long time.
I treat each flight as I was getting in the plane: all surfaces are checked for proper movement.
Each morning at a flyin, the plane is put on a stand and the gear is cycled plus all moving surfaces are checked.
I want the plane to crash due to 'dumb thumbs' versus mechanical.
Tim said Timken was having parts break from one supplier until they switched to Giant Sierra.
Tim said Timken had some job openings: 200 applied and the bulk of them failed due to skill level and the rest failed due to failing the drug test. Not sure why people want to dump foreign substances into their bodies: a lot of my age group thought it freed up the mind in the 60's. They finally realized it was stupid and they are wiser now. It's sad that each generation can't learn from past history. You're only issued one body and it has to last a long time.
08-10-2016, 11:59 AM
#1424
AC2,
I treat each flight as I was getting in the plane: all surfaces are checked for proper movement.
Each morning at a flyin, the plane is put on a stand and the gear is cycled plus all moving surfaces are checked.
I want the plane to crash due to 'dumb thumbs' versus mechanical.
Tim said Timken was having parts break from one supplier until they switched to Giant Sierra.
Tim said Timken had some job openings: 200 applied and the bulk of them failed due to skill level and the rest failed due to failing the drug test. Not sure why people want to dump foreign substances into their bodies: a lot of my age group thought it freed up the mind in the 60's. They finally realized it was stupid and they are wiser now. It's sad that each generation can't learn from past history. You're only issued one body and it has to last a long time.
I treat each flight as I was getting in the plane: all surfaces are checked for proper movement.
Each morning at a flyin, the plane is put on a stand and the gear is cycled plus all moving surfaces are checked.
I want the plane to crash due to 'dumb thumbs' versus mechanical.
Tim said Timken was having parts break from one supplier until they switched to Giant Sierra.
Tim said Timken had some job openings: 200 applied and the bulk of them failed due to skill level and the rest failed due to failing the drug test. Not sure why people want to dump foreign substances into their bodies: a lot of my age group thought it freed up the mind in the 60's. They finally realized it was stupid and they are wiser now. It's sad that each generation can't learn from past history. You're only issued one body and it has to last a long time.
10-28-2016, 05:38 AM
#1425
Post season report:
It's been a good season with the Corsair. Got close to 200 flights on her, now. The wing surface repair has held up with no cracks showing so that's good. The engine and folding wings have worked flawless, as well as the gear. Hard to believe that I got this plane 8 years ago, back in Oct of 2008.
My last flyin is next week at Dino's memorial flyin in Georgia where I'll be taking the Bates B-26 marauder.
I haven't purchased a plane in probably 10 years that I haven't built but I'm looking for a Ziroli Corsair, ready to fly, as I need a plane that I can fly at smaller fields (getting soft in my old age!).
thanks,
Sam
It's been a good season with the Corsair. Got close to 200 flights on her, now. The wing surface repair has held up with no cracks showing so that's good. The engine and folding wings have worked flawless, as well as the gear. Hard to believe that I got this plane 8 years ago, back in Oct of 2008.
My last flyin is next week at Dino's memorial flyin in Georgia where I'll be taking the Bates B-26 marauder.
I haven't purchased a plane in probably 10 years that I haven't built but I'm looking for a Ziroli Corsair, ready to fly, as I need a plane that I can fly at smaller fields (getting soft in my old age!).
thanks,
Sam
Last edited by samparfitt; 10-28-2016 at 05:42 AM.