mboland

Detailed build threads have been of great help to me in everything from assembling ARF's to building kits, adding details and fixing problems.

I searched the forums for details on the VQ 60 size Hawker Hurricane, and although I did find a couple of threads, one in Warbirds
and another in the eclectic conversion section, there were details I would have liked to see about the actual construction and methods.

So in the tradition of the forum I have decided to detail this build I am doing of the VQ Hawker Hurricane 60.

I won't detail the box contents and parts as this has been very well done in this thread
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7254744/mpage_1/key_VQ%2CHurricane/tm.htm]VQ Hawker Hurricane .60 Build Thread[/link]
but rather I will just jump straight into the assembly.

If there are any close up details you want to see please feel free to let me know.

Although I will be following VQ's instruction sheet I will also be adding my own slant/methods to the assembly.

So first off, a standard procedure I now do with all ARF's the moment they leave the box. Thin Cyano every joint in them I can get to.

In most cases I also glass in the wheel mount areas, but access in this case is very tight so I might not be able to. If they rip out in operation then I guess I will then have plenty of access then.

mboland

First off the outer wing panels.
1st thing I found was the servo arm mounting is not perpendicular to the aileron hinge line

Without access to replacement covering I have decided to go with this. It would also had necessitated making new servo hatches.

The error is minor and in all practicality should not affect performance.

_Tommy D

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Subscribed to this thread!

I still have one in last years Christmas wrapping!

Thanks for all the photos. I am looking forward to details on setting up the flaps, and your take on the tailwheel for example.

Best of luck!

Tommy D

mboland

The servos screwed straight in.

In this case I am using Spectrum DS821 Digitals, although the spacing on the cut outs puts the arms only a mm or so from the slot edge.

This is going to prove interesting when fitting linkages. []
I hope I am not going to come across too many of these little hiccups while building this plane.

I use a couple of layers of card to space the servo from the tray while fitting it, helps protect them from vibration if they are not touching.

mboland

The instructions have the servo slots fitted furthermost away from the aileron, which I find curious.

I always aim to keep the servo linkage as short as possible.

Simple fix, swap the servo trays over from the other wing.

mboland

Thanks tommytorino,
I just getting to a first close look at the flaps.

It is nice they have gone to the trouble of painting the interior.

will be interesting to see how well this wire link works, although on the TF Corsair it works fine across 3 flap sections.

Bit of a gap evident where the hinge plate is fitted to the wing trailing edge, so I made sure to reinforce as much as possible with glue here.
Also noticed the skin lifting from the root rib.
Very necessary to go over as many joints as possible with thin CA

_Tommy D

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Perhaps you will end up like me going to Horizon to purchase long servo arms for the JR servos? Also as a work of warning it has been suggested to replace the stock screw in the 821s with a longer one. No loctite is to ever be used on those servo shafts as well.

If I just added something you already know, sorry about that!

Tommy D

mboland

Next job should have been simple enough, measure pushrods and put a Z-bend in them.

Unfortunately the wire provided proved a little too hard and simply broke at the bends.

Time to fabricate new ones, and with the close clearance between the servo arm and the edge of the slot in the mounting plate, I went for a clevis at each end, one soldered, the other, my favourite Sullivan type with clips AND I put keepers on as well (belt and braces job [>:])

I was pleased to see VQ supplying control horns LONG bolts. In the past this has not been the case, so it seems they are listening.

mboland

Thanks for the heads up on that. The screws seemed to bite OK but don't bottom out solidly, similar to the nylon.
I will keep an eye on them.

I tend not to put locktite near servo's preferring to use star washers or the like for security with metal geared servo's.

mboland

There is a very detailed build thread on RC Groups at [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784797]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784797[/link]

This is an electric conversion thread but has good detail on some of the air frame assembly. Worth a look.

The fuse front assembly won't be applicable to us oilers though

mboland

I have chosen Spring Air retracts as they have worked very well in the other Warbirds and just work, no mucking about, and require very little maintenance.

No matter how careful you are with a dremel, the plastic always seems to end up looking like a dog chewed it out []

At least it gave me enough access to get some glass reinforcement in behind the wheel mount bearers.

mboland

Here is one little gripe, cause it ain't just this plane. I come across this is nearly all the VQ birds.

I don't know what they tried to use open out the balsa around the wing retaining bolt holes, but all they succeed in doing is making a hell of a mess.

See for yourself.

mboland

The instructions mention lines down the middle of the dihedral braces. There were none, but it is important that you put some on them.

I found the braces had to be shortened from 2 to 4mm, otherwise they will just hold your wing sections apart.

Simple procedure, just insert into centre section, draw line at rib, insert into wing outer and see how far out the line is from the rib.

_Tommy D

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Great tips so far. Like the one on marking.

Would it be possible to use a dental tool or the likes to completly remove the inner wheel well?

Can you make mention what retract model you used?

Tommy D

NoFlaps

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This is a great thread so -far...I've always wanted a .60 size hurricane, but I was un-impressed with my .40 VQ Hurricane...I'm hoping this one will be lighter, and made of better quality balsa.
I can't wait to hear a flight report.
Keep up the great work !~ [8D]

_Tommy D

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Hey NF get back to that P-47!

mboland

I have had to remove these wheel wells on other arfs but they never come away cleanly and/or crack in the process.
I usually put up with them until I just pull them out and build in my own. Is also a chance to go to larger wheels.
But we will see how it all goes stock first.

The retracts are Spring Air 103 HD for 3/16" strut.
The Spring Air stuts cut down nicely even to this short length without running into any of the spring mechanism.

As soon as the shed cools down today I will be joining the wings.
Pics to follow.

mboland

Time to get the wing ready to join.

First off, the masking of the centre section. very straight forward.

Next the wing end pieces. Then the job of running a pull string from the nav light positions so wiring can be pulled through later.
These wings just HAVE to have the nav lights seeing so much effort was put into creating the locations. A simple lead fishing weight on a piece of string makes short work of that.
A bit of tape here and there and we are close to ready.

The thermometer has just hit 41deg C (106deg F) in the shed so I am taking a break to rehydrate.

mboland

This would have to be one of the more complex wing joins, now we have servo wires, light wiring pull strings, 2 dihedral braces and flap joining wire that has to in all the right places when glued up.

1. Dragged aileron extension lead through.

2. Dragged pull strings through.

3. Simple enough with a pull wire, string exits front and servo lead exits centre.

4. The easiest part was getting epoxy on everything, the hardest part was removing it from what it should not have been on.

5. I found I needed to clamp the trailing edge to be sure it lined up. The wings do not seem to want to line up on their own and I am going to have about 1mm mismatch at the leading edge.

6. Parting shot of the wing as I headed to get a cool one.

_Tommy D

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Great job on the photos.

I'm surprised the struts worked on such a short gear leg! Ill have to keep that in mind when mine goes together. I had hopes of using LADO brand electric retracts, but who knows.

I agree the lamps are begging for a little LED of the likes out in the lamp lenses.

Hey, stop the presses! Is that some form of Ford <Falcon?> in the background? Look a bit like a US Ford Torino!

Keep up the good work. If it makes you feel any better it was below 30 degrees F at my flying field today! Brrrrrr! [&:]


Tommy D

mboland

I checked the struts by finding a piece of scrap tube the right length, and once marked putting it against the oleo's which gave me the length cut mark.
Simply inserted a wire, or any other probe, down the oleo to see what I hit. All seemed clear at that length so I cut and shut.
What I should have done was to see just how far down the max length was for reference. Maybe next time.

I am thinking 2 small torches (LED) and 2 super bright (one red one green). Now the red goes ... ummm ... left and green must be right

The car in the background IS indeed a Ford Falcon, a Fairmont in fact, not a GT.
1972 model Ford Falcon Coupe, 302 Windsor (Boss motor) top loader 4 speed, and a list of other mods that would fill a dunny roll.
Sharp eye.

We are getting a real spurt of summer weather here, so considering the wind is nill and the sky is clear, perfect flying weather, I ain't complaining.

Now I can get around to the flaps, that is after I come back from the flying field today, and as long as there is no repairs to be done

PS: just found a pic of the coupe in the wild, thought I would throw it in

mboland

I had only a couple of minor repairs to do after Sunday flying, but Johhno unfortunately drove his Macchi 200 straight in. No survivors I'm sorry to say.
Full details here [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6639248/mpage_3/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6639248/mpage_3/tm.htm[/link]

So here is the flap connection.
Very straight forward, with the 2 crank arms set in the same position, and connected to the flaps, I ran the single connecting wire from crank to crank, past the servo.
Next step was to mark the wire with the flaps closed, open the flaps fully, and measure the travel required.
I was pleased that it will not require a lot of travel at the servo, so a short moment can be used to maximise the power of the servo.

The instructions also have the flap servo with the leads exiting outwards. I found this tended to press firmly against the side of the belly scoop when fitted. The simple fix is to just mount the servo the other way round with the leads exiting towards the centre of the wing.

_Tommy D

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Great Illustration on how to assemble the flaps.

I'm running out the door so this msg must be quick. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is thankful for you making such a detailed build on this model.

Tommy D

mboland

Thanks for the compliments, I am hoping I am not putting in too much nitty gritty details to the point of being boring.

I have been having good success lately with using silicone for some sections of the build, in particular the wheel covers which I always find crack and break around the screw holes with the rough treatment our strips gives landing gear.

This is the 4th plane I have used this method on and the others are still holding very well with no signs of letting go.

next up is the lights in the wing.

Destroyer of Airplanes

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mboland,

I appreciate you taking the time to detail your build with little tips and hints. I too have one of these in the box. I'm not sure when I'll get to it, but you can be sure I will re read this thread.

Thanks

Paul