TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

OK, I have finally started my B-17. Since I still have not ordered wood for sheeting the wings, I decided to start at the rear. I pondered long and hard about removable stabs or fixed. But, since the stab is about 52" span, and I live in a M/H with 32" doors, I decided to go with removable.
I used cardboard to create a pattern for the rear bulkhead/stab mount. BTW, USPS Priority Mail boxes make excellent pattern material. I then used some "SWAG" to determine where to mount the stab mounts. The aluminum spades will be mounted in each stab half, then the pinch bolts will hold them in place. The lower rear of the fuse is removable to provide access.
I am still deciding if I want to make the fin & rudder removable or not. Don't know about a tail wheel retract either.
"SWAG": scientific wild assed guess

mjjolley

Looks like a nice start. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. The only thing you might consider on the rudder is making it larger. I've had several people suggest that on my restoration. Merry Christmas!

Matt

racinbug53

My Feedback: (4)

I will be watching close for building ideas and any tricks,the vertical stab on my American Eagle B-17 kit is already molded into the fuselage,so no removal for me and the previous American Eagle B-17 I owned (but did not build,I bought it already finished) had a fixed tailwheel assembly and likesline electric retracts,by the way is likesline still in buisness???I really wish you great luck in building your B-17 as I am gonna need alot of advise and tips myself from the master builders out there...........Randy

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Terry,
You will really like making the horizontal removeable. I Made my 132" wellington that way and it made it a breeze to transport. I used a 1/2 carbonfiber tube spar in mine and i was worried that may not hold but after 2 years and greater that 50 flights it was really worth the effort. I personally would just install the vertical permanently. Which tail wheel are you planning on using? The one from Yellow A/C is very reasonable. I put that one in my 146" halifax I am currently building and it an easy install...I also have the same tail wheel in the Wellington and have nevr had an issue... I think they are about $40....

Ty

Check6

My Feedback: (427)

Terry,
Where did you get your spade pieces for the removable stab?
Thanks,
Fred

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

rb53,
Join in when you get started. The AE is a very similar kit and there is room for 2 on here.
Ty,
I just happen to have that same retract laying in a box. That may be the ticket, since it a very lightweight unit.
Fred,
These came with a bunch of "stuff" I picked on E-bay a while back. However, SIG sells a very similar unit.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Hey, Here is a pic I took of the Halifax this morning....

Ty

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

Ty, that Halifax is looking very fine.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Thanks to Ty, for jogging my memory. I dug thru my stuff, and found this tailwheel retract. It is a very light unit and works well. The bulkhead is just tacked in right now. It, and the stab mount will be permanently epoxied in soon. Not sure if I am going to mount the T/W steering servo near the bulkhead, with a short pushrod, or up front with longer pull-pull cables. Building a short kit requires a lot pre-planning before you mounting things permanent.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Terry,
Personally I have alway gotten rid of the side arm from that tail wheel and replaced it with the Pull pull system. If you don't it will be hard to turn one direction.

Ty

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Ty,
I know what you mean, however, since the the wheel retracts rearward, it will take some serious arm geometry, to let the cables slack, rather than tighten when it retracts. It may still be possible, if I can mount the steering servo behind the tailwheel. I may be able to mount 1 servo between the T/W and rudder and drive both off it.
On to mounting the stab cores. You can see from the pics, I just made a spar for the joiner to slide into. Created a box on the root end. I cut a slot in the core for the spars on my band saw. I then slid all the parts together, squared the stabs up with world, then marked the spars to trim to the stab profile. Now the spars are glued into the stab cores, and all squared up before letting the epoxy set. I will glue the aluminium joiners in after the stabs have been sheeted and capped. I will also install front and rear anti-rotation dowels.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

This one looks great. Keep it going. Dan.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Played with the tailwheel again. and it looks like I can put the servo between the T/W, and the rudder. I can them make a control horn that will operate the rudder directly off the hinge post. All will hook-up with pull-pull cables, and the tail T/W controls will have enough slack, to retract and not bind the rudder control.
Also started sheeting the cores today. Since I don't have the original schucks, (p/o tossed them) I needed to find a way to clamp the sheeting. Well I don't have all the needed crap for a vacuum bagging system, so someone suggested a "Space Bag". These are bags that you store clothes, linens, etc in, and use a vacuum cleaner to suck the air out. Viola, works perfect.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Just a day of sheeting and capping cores. Hope to complete the rudder hinge and stab tip later tonite. Held the front half of the fuse up to just a get "look".

frank99

My Feedback: (29)

This is looking good, what will be your power plant for the aircraft? thanks frank

kram

My Feedback: (7)

Very exciting to see a new build like this start!

Thanks for sharing.

Friend of mine has been flying a Westcraft for more than 6 years now, well over 100 flights at several different venues, including Lakeland and Monaville.

A plane like that never fails to make everybody else at the field stop and gawk.

Bon Voyage!


mt

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Frank,
Not sure what I am going to power it with. Want to see where my weight comes out. I have some Magnum .52 4-strokes I would like to use, but may go with Magnum .70's
Kram,
Have seen Wendell's b-17 several times at Bomber Field. You need to come down with him sometime.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

I vote Electric!!!! Very dependable..Cost about the same as 4- 91 four strokes... My set up for the Halifax will have 40 lbs of thrust at takeoff.....



Ty

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Sorry, no.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Spent the day working on a rudder. I have heard a lot of stories, about how tail heavy these Wescrafts are, so I have decided to go with built-up control surfaces. Don't know for sure that I will save any weight, but they will look better.
Now it's time to do the elevators.

mjjolley

Wow Terry! Why don't crank out two sets of those...please? I'd love to have set.

Matt

gpier

My Feedback: (2)

Well DANG!!!! Now I gots to finish MY Westcraft B-17. Just leave it to Terry and Matt to get me off my keester. Mine will be a little different than most other guys as I am going to do a SB-17, basically because I'm lazy and don't want to have to do all the turrets and guns thing....instead a boat

Greg

johnnylwhite

My Feedback: (17)

LOL at you Greg! Lets see....lazy equals a SB-17....interesting!

Looks like your off to a great start Terry!

Hope yall had a great Christmas and have a happy New Year!......GO TECH!!!!

Johnny

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Just been working on the leveators. Not much to show, as construction is similar to rudder. I will post more pic when I get the controls for the rudder and elevators up an going. Pull Puul on rudder elevator and tail wheel with plug in stabs, has taken a bit of enginering.
You may also notice, that I need to take some time and clean up to crearte some work space.[&o]

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

But Terry if you clean up you wont be able to find your tools to build


Great thread

Cheers Bob T