ticketec

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I though this thread was about a 1/3 Me-109E and not the US AMA rules about weight????

Great project by the way and I love your glass work on the cowl. Looking forward to your progress with this model!

Thanks

dave

zipnz1

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I have most of the fan roughed in on the lathe. I am waiting for a 8" rotary table like the one in the pic that i ordered last monday. I will use the table to cut the cooling fins and the deep groove between the hub and the fins with a end mill. I called the company on friday about shipping because i had'nt heard from them. The table is heavier than what ups will handle so it has to be shipped by truck freight and after my call friday i still do not have a firm anwser from them about shipping.

Scott Prossen

Hey guys,

Look what just got posted by the AMA. Looks like things are monving along quicker than I thought!

125LBS now. Yippee!

http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/520-a.pdf

Keep the build going.

Scott

zipnz1

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Thats good news scott. This will give me some breathing room if needed.

Getting back to my project. I finally recieved my rotary table and i put some hours on the mill.
When i thought of using a fan to cool the motor in the enclosed cowl i had no idea i was going to have a crash course in mechanical engineering with the fan design. I had no idea there were so many designs for a centrifigual fan with each having strong and weak points. Doing a curved blade fan blade was out of the question with my equipment so i went with a backward inclined fan design which uses a flat blade.
This was the hardest project i have attempted on my equipment so i had to go slowly and measure twice and cut once. One wrong cut and hours of work would have been scraped out.
I will be building a shroud next to enclose the fan to the engine and i was wanting to use .040" aluminum sheet welded with a new tig welder i purchased over the winter but i am going to have to do a lot of practicing on scrap.
Im having a lot of trouble welding an outside corner on the thin gauge . the heavier gauge is easier as it soaks up the heat where the light gauge aluminum just melts and drops out.

Luft-Gangster

For the shroud, look at this. Just a thought, hope it helps
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp

langerl

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Mike!
Wow.  That looks like a LOT of work!  Sure hope it is effective for your application.  What sort of research did you do to determine the impeller would work at the RPM range at which you plan to operate?  Will you REALLY get enough ram air past the spinner even if the impeller is very efficient?  I know it would be kinda' hard to mock-up a test rig to check but, I guess the only way you'll know if "book answer" is OK is to just try it.
I don't know whether this would work, but did you consider sourcing the appropriate sized, model JET turbine impeller as a fan?  How about the SiST 1/5 scale FW190 cast fan blade?  Perhaps even a larger, composite, ducted fan impeller might work for you and be lighter?

Just a couple of "out of the box" thoughts for your consideration. 

I'm enjoying your thread, Mike.  Keep up the great work.  Sure wish I had your machining skills...

Regards,
Lynn

zipnz1

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Lynn, i got some good info from this web site. http://www.tcf.com/TCFBlower/pdfs/engr_data/ED2400.pdf
At first i thought of using a impeller from a leaf blower or a vacum or such but most of the stuff i found was designed to rotate the opposite direction from what i needed.
I needed a impeller that was adaptable to the crank hub and hugs close to the cylinder fins to allow airflow into the fan hub. The area between the fan and spinner backplate is tight so i decided making my own design might be the best way to go.

Thanks for the link gangster, this is a aluminum brazing rod and works great for many applications. the rod alloy melts at a slightly lower melting point than a regular aluminum alloy. I think some of the aftermarket muffler supplierers use a product like this to assemble thier mufflers.

I have been practicing with my tig welder and can get really good results doing butt welds on aluminum like 1/8 thick but the lighter gauge stuff is harder to work with because the heat is not dissipated away from the weld zone.
There is a lot of varibles and settings on my welder and i am going to have to work to find a setting and technique that works for me.

zipnz1

My Feedback: (2)

I have been putting some time on the tig welder over the last week and after burning through a 4 foot bottle of argon gas i am getting much better and starting to produce some decent weld beads.
This tig welding definitely falls under multitasking. You have to control the amperage with the foot pedal, keep the tungsten very close to the puddle of metal and feed the filler rod into the puddle to create the weld bead. If you happen to touch the tungsten to the base metal or the filler rod you have to stop, break the end off the tungsten and sharpen it to a point again.
The key seems to be, keep the arc hot, move the puddle fast and be good with the filler rod. One of my biggest problems now is keeping up with the filler rod. The filler rod is 1/16" diameter and 3 foot long, i will burn through this in a 6 inch weld bead.

The shroud is starting to take shape and i have a little work left to finish it up and then i will start on the spinner back plate and mount the engine to the airframe.

tfarmer96

That is outstanding!

Dave73

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good Mike just remember a good welder can fill any crack. [sm=lol.gif]

bigphil

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Yes, good to see you are making progress Mike. How's that Mustang coming Dave?

zipnz1

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This last winter i was really wanted to focus on this project and have it finished for the summer flying season but as it seems to happen after every winter and the weather starts to warm up other issues of life get me away from this project. I really admire those folks that stay focused and seem to pump out killer models in a short time span.



I have got back on this project in the last few weeks and i originally made the joining spar out of carbon fiber capped wood and after building the model in the winter months the humidity of the summer had swelled the wood making the spar fit tighter than i wanted so i made another spar out of 1/2 inch 6061 aluminum to try to resolve this problem
I have begun working on the exhaust. I plan on making a chambered muffler out of 6061 aluminum and the header tubing is made from 1" stainless tubing from KS-exhaust parts that are sold by desert aircraft.
To keep the header pipes the same length i have sunk one of the headers into the muffler 2".

mike

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Looking forward to seeing more.

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

You're an artist, Mike! Keep up the good work!

And thanks for the Z-P51 fuse! Starting the parts search now.

Noah

zipnz1

My Feedback: (2)

Noah, looking forward to seeing the p-51 finished. All the ziroli planes fly great. The stainless parts i got from u are working out great, I am waiting on 2 more 90 degree elbows and a section of straight pipe i ordered to finish out the headers.

I have been working on the interior of the muffler and i have the design finalized. The headers will dump into an area called an expansion chamber. from there the gases move into a resonator chamber. To be most efficient i turned the resonator tube sideways to try to make its length as long as possible but I dont know if the volume of this chamber is sufficient enough to dampen the exhaust high frequencies. from there the gases exit into the final chamber and out the exit tubes.

zipnz1

My Feedback: (2)

I have the bulk of the muffler finished, but i had some trouble welding the stainless headers. Although the weld looked great on the outside, because i did not purge the tubing on the inside with argon the stainless tig welding reacted with the oxygen in the air and produced a really ugly reaction on the inside that would restrict the exhaust gases. I ended up using a brazing rod with a oxy-acetylene torch and this produced good results. One of the headers ended up a little closer to the cowl than i wanted so i ended up cutting off the flange and shortening the tubing connecting the flange. In one of the pics of the flange it shows the weld reaction that i ended up with after i cut the flange off. I could grind back the weld on the ends of the tube but not in the bends.

I had the 109 assembled together outside for the first time and its starting to look impressive. I weighed the model complete as it is in the pic and it came in at #50. To be realistic it will probably have another #10 going into it when finished. I have the servos ordered and have made the decision to try to get the plane into the air before winter sets in. I plan on just flying the model in primer just in case i might have to make some drastic changes. One of the things that are bothering me is if the dle111 will have enough power to fly it spirited, this is one of the things i want to find out before the model is painted. If it turnes out to be a little on the low side for power i have been thinking about stepping up to a dle 222.

mike

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

Looking good Mike. Give me a hollar when you are going to give it a whirl.

If you still haven't settled on servos, check out these from Giant Model Products. [link=http://www.giantmodelproducts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37&zenid=1aff4f96a203ea357843e0f2d930a489]servos[/link] Metal gears and dual ball bearings. They are bargains from my perspective, I don't think you need digitals on this bird since it's not a 3D machine. I've used these on my Gee Bee R3 and they work great. The analogs range from 324 in/oz to 388 in/oz on 4.8 volts. Even more impressive on 6 volts. Could cut down your costs a bit...

grant118

My Feedback: (26)

OMG. That is incredible. Very nice craftmanship. Thank you for sharing. If you have an Ox-Ac torch, you could either braze or gas weld aluminum. Works very well. The braze filler rod melt at a lower temp then the base metal and will avoid blow thru on the weld.
chris

zipnz1

My Feedback: (2)

Just got back back from the indiana warbird campain, had a great time flying my ziroli p51 f-bomb.

Thanks for the tip chris. I have used the brazing rod in the past and had good results. The key to using this product successfully is that the aluminum has to be clean and scrubbed with a stainless wire brush to remove the oxidation that all aluminum has on the surface.

Yea, i already ordered the servos phil. I gave this a lot of thought and i wanted to try one of the newer high voltage servos one the market. I want to use a spektrum AR9110 9-Channel DSMX PowerSafe Receiver powered by a couple 2s lipos unregulated, so i ended up buying power hd 8325hv servos.

mike

zipnz1

My Feedback: (2)

I have been working of this project for the last month installing hardware and for the last week i have been running the engine. I ended up cutting the shroud and fan 1/2" bigger on the inside because i did not feel there was enough airflow getting through the cooling fan.
I had the engine running good with the cowl off but when i put the cowl on it the fuel mixture went very rich and i lost at around 1000 rpm.
The carb was about a inch from the cowl and i hoped this would not be a problem but it was too close.
As much as i did not want to, i cut a hole in the cowl and made a velocity stack to pull fresh air from outside the cowl.

Today i went to the field and made its first flight. The airframe felt very solid with no unexpected supprises i had to give a good amount of down trim and i will have to give the elevator more throw because the landing flair was too soft and i ended up bouncing the landing. The speed and power was less than what i was hoping for and on the groung with a zinger pro prop it was turning around 5700 rpm. after the flight a friend offered to let me try a xoar prop on the engine and the rpm increased to 6100. the engine felt more powerfull. I am looking forward to trying another flight with the xoar prop in the future.

All i have at this time are 2 short videos on the take off and landing taken from an iphone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNT0CPveeFk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PntJTCu9GLU

mike

F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

Congrats Mike...that's great. Another milestone cleared on the path to success. Looking forward to seeing it in full regalia. It was good meeting up and chatting with you again after all these years.

Jeff

zipnz1

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Thanks jeff, I enjoyed running into you and dave again at muncie. Looking forward to finishing this bird and taking it to Owatonna next year.

mike

91zulu

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Super !!

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Congratulations, again, Mike! You must be thrilled!

Man, I was thrilled that I was able to witness the maiden in person last night. Your 109 has serious presence, both in the ground and in the air!

I'm glad it has proven itself a stable flier, and I can't wait to see the results of your efforts over the winter and spring as you add the paint and details.

Nice work!!!

See you soon.

Noah

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Awesome Mike!!![X(] From start to finish. I really love this stuff.
Cant wait to see it with some 'war paint' on.

Cheers,

Brad