NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF
Horizon called back, they explained that the airplane was designed mainly for the gas version of the Saito 125, the additional weight of the ignition box and wiring would allow more structure in the tail (like built up and sheeted tail surfaces). They also mentioned that for their plane that they built using the FG20, they even had to add some weight up front to get to the recommended c/g. They suggested I move the receiver batt up front like I have or maybe add something like an onboard glow system to add weight.
They said to try and keep it below 11 pounds if possible.
My battery packs (2x 4S4000) weigh about the same as the FG-20 (~30oz), and I've got a Power 110 motor that weighs 17.5oz, plus a couple of oz. of ESC up front. I still had to get the batteries within 1/2" of the firewall to get it to balance, so I figure you would have to add nearly a pound to an FG-20 setup to balance it. No way that's coming in under 11lbs.
Mine weighs 11.5, and remember I've got no fuel, and no RX pack to add to the numbers above.
BTW, it flies fine at 11.5 (and I'm at 5000ft), so don't worry too much about keeping it under 11lbs. It's just ridiculous that they advertise the plane as 9.5-11lbs.
From the HH site (emphasis added):
My battery packs (2x 4S4000) weigh about the same as the FG-20 (~30oz), and I've got a Power 110 motor that weighs 17.5oz, plus a couple of oz. of ESC up front. I still had to get the batteries within 1/2'' of the firewall to get it to balance, so I figure you would have to add nearly a pound to an FG-20 setup to balance it. No way that's coming in under 11lbs.
Mine weighs 12.5, and remember I've got no fuel, and no RX pack to add to the numbers above.
BTW, it flies fine at 12.5 (and I'm at 5000ft), so don't worry too much about keeping it under 11lbs. It's just ridiculous that they advertise the plane as 9.5-11lbs.
Im suprised i got mine to balance then.
I just did your tail wheel mod and it took all of 5 mins to do!!! Thanks for the mod!!! I was looking at the tail wheel last night to see how could I beef it up after taixing my bird in my drive way yesterday and watching the tail wheel do its dance!! I did not like it!!!
Once again, thanks for the mod and I hope everyone who have this plane do your mod!!! This weekend was to be her first flight, but, now they are calling for snow!!!! Do you just hate that!!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b
John.
John
spit pilot good job!
Where did you pick up your tail wheel?
Just came in from taixing my P-51 around in my drive and your mod was a god send. The tail was spot on and no dancing!! I was outside for no more than 5 mins and my fingers are numb!! Tonight the weatherman say we may go down to 7 degs F!!! Like you, this bird may not fly untill spring. Now I have to find something to build for the winter!!!
Thanks again for your mod!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b
[link]http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=955/101.0.5161.5181.0.0.0[/link]
May be able to contact them to see if you can get the wheel separately.
Shane
Just finished up my Blue Nose - I have been following this thread for a while and like most have had similar issues so thought I would summarize my build;
1) Like everyone else I had to beef up the retract rails and attachment - used glass cloth and resin liberally to areas I could reach and added angle blocks to reinforce rib to spar and skin structure. 2) Replaced the cowl captive nuts with 'Well' nuts which have a rubber flange which helps damp out vibration and makes the cowl fit a little better. 3) I am using a Saito 125 with a Keleo Pitts muffler - cut back the tubes by about an inch to reduce the amount exposed below the cowl. 4) I also am using the Pacific Scaled Aircraft exhaust and thier flush air filter cover kit. 5) I checked the wing wash out and have 1-1 1/2 degrees of wash out on both wings. (unlike my H9 150 P51 which has about 1 1/2 degrees of wash out on one wing and about 1 degree of wash in, really bad on the other wing and as yet still have not flown it like this) 6) I ran the engine on a stand for 3 tank fulls before trying it in the airplane - the vibration levels are quite acceptable with the balance plastic spinner but as you can see in the photos I am using a 4'' Dave Brown aluminum spinner. 7) I intend to fly without the two canopy attachment screws and rely on the magnetic catches only - I think this will be ok but will see after the first flight. 8) I am using a 6v 1700 mAh RX battery and a 1.2 v 1900 mAh battery for the C-Tronics glow driver. 9) I have a 1/8'' gap between the wing leading edge and the fuse recess which no one else in the thread has mentioned but will leave this for now. 10) I have yet to address the wobbly tail wheel but will do this before first flight. 11) The CG came out at 4.7'' without adding weight to the nose or tail but the weight is at 11.5# driving the wing loading up to about 35oz/sq ft which does concern me a bit. I think the CG at 4.7'', 26% MAC is nose heavy although reports in FLY RC mag say it should be fine - we shall see.
In general I think the quality of this ARF is ok but more attention to detail in critical areas like the retract rail attachment, tail wheel support and wood quality would produce a really good model at no or little cost increase - better quality control and oversight of the Chinese manufacturer by the people at H9 would fix these issues we all have struggle with.
Thanks for your input RodanAZ - I understand your concern but since I only intend to use the Saito 125 I do not need the cooling flow in the fuse as required for an electric set up. The two large diameter cooling holes in the firewall and other small potential leaks have been sealed off to keep any leaking fuel out so the fuse will not be pressurized. Although I do not have the radiator outlet installed it might be advantageous for me to do so as this would create negative pressure in the fuse and add to the magnetic forces holding the canopy section in place. This being said, and considering the potential damage and loss of the canopy section, I may just use the retention screws to ensure loss of the canopy section does not occur.
Sealed off my "cooling holes" in the firewall as they are oil and gunk blow holes for anything other than electric. I'm using an O.S. 91 four stroke. Just had to prevent fuel and other contaminants getting into the fuse. Never occurred to me (appreciate RodanZA's comments), those firewall holes would have a pressurization effect inside the fuse and potentially "blowout" the canopy. I added the radiator exhaust, which may increase airflow cooling for electrics (with open firewall holes), and hold the canopy down for us internal combustion guys. Great stuff and thanks to you both!
I was really hoping I could build a super fast hot rod with out ridiculous wing loading. I really hate dead weight. Any ideas for how to add more weight up front? What is a good size for an on board glow plug battery? I’ve already got the remote glow plug hooked up, it would be easy to add in a switch and have the option to use the on board battery or a fresh external battery.
I’m getting the super-awesome exhaust kit, I don’t assume that will add much weight though.
Any ideas?
I like what Spitpilot did, by adding (more weight up front) a 4" aluminum spinner.
My H9 Bluenose P-51 weighs 11.5lbs
I guess I was thinking of my scale Jet Ranger, which weighs 12.5... Sorry.
Anyway, I edited the post above to correct it, but I was quoted and can't edit that. Also I want to make sure everyone knew the correct weight.
Gentlemen:
I intend to buy this “Blue Nose” P-51, but I would like to hear more about its landing gear.
Other H9 planes are blamed for having a week landing gear.
I have a P-47 and a P-40 and had to replace both landing gears.
My P-47 taxied like a walking duck and the wire struts bended even in soft landings. I replaced them with FTE gear with 3/16 wires. No more probems!
On my P-40 (after waiting for 6 month for a Lado retracts) I replaced them with Century Jet retracts, that doubled the cost of the plane (!!!).
Certainly the 5/32 wires are not strong enough to resist a 9 ~ <metricconverter productid="10 lb">10 lb</metricconverter> plane.
After reading all this thread I could not find many references on the retracts.
So I would like to ask you guys, with flying experience with this plane, how the retracts of this P-51 behave before investing in this kit.
Thank you for your help.
Leonardo
Gentlemen:
I intend to buy this “Blue Nose” P-51, but I would like to hear more about its landing gear.
Other H9 planes are blamed for having a week landing gear.
I have a P-47 and a P-40 and had to replace both landing gears.
My P-47 taxied like a walking duck and the wire struts bended even in soft landings. I replaced them with FTE gear with 3/16 wires. No more probems!
On my P-40 (after waiting for 6 month for a Lado retracts) I replaced them with Century Jet retracts, that doubled the cost of the plane (!!!).
Certainly the 5/32 wires are not strong enough to resist a 9 ~ <metricconverter productid=''10 lb''>10 lb</metricconverter> plane.
After reading all this thread I could not find many references on the retracts.
So I would like to ask you guys, with flying experience with this plane, how the retracts of this P-51 behave before investing in this kit.
Thank you for your help.
Leonardo
The wings have pre drilled holes and blind nuts. On the starboard wing I had to knock out the blind nuts and move them out about 1/8” so the gear would fit nicely in the wing.
Just make sure to reinforce the wing...