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  1. #1801

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    also recomend to add clips or steal wire on your fuel line ends ,sumertime the get loose also replace not just the throtle arm also the cheap h9 plastic horn to a dubro ball link conector 

  2. #1802

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF


  3. #1803

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    bboytab, Your LG axles should be under the LE of the wing when you hold the tail in the position it would be in just before rotation. if it is back behind the LE, i add shims under the aft LG mounting ear to move it there. i usually stop at a 1/4 in shim because that will usually do the trick.

    Joe
    If it doesn't fly it wount cetch my eye.

  4. #1804

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    ORIGINAL: paladin

    bboytab, Your LG axles should be under the LE of the wing when you hold the tail in the position it would be in just before rotation. if it is back behind the LE, i add shims under the aft LG mounting ear to move it there. i usually stop at a 1/4 in shim because that will usually do the trick.

    Joe
    wood shim added.....will test further...thanks

  5. #1805

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    Well, xmas is almost here, and since my parents are coming to stay, I can't think of anything better to do than spend some time with dad getting the final assembly of my P51/DLE20 setup done, should be a good excuse to fire the thing up also as it'll give him a kick to be here when I do that for the first time.
    Raptor 50 Nitro heli - OS50 Hyper
    56\" Yak54 w/ ASP.61 2 stroke, 73" gas Sbach 342, H9 P51 blue nose in progress (with DLE20)

  6. #1806

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    Sorry for reviving this topic, but I ordered a P51 Blue Nose and want to install a 2 Stroke Evoluton 1,20nx. This motor is too much for this plane? What about the weight? The CG?
    If it possible to install this motor, what would be a nice prop to put in?

    Thanks!

  7. #1807

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    Not sur how would the engine would perform since its a helli engine woth front carb
    just compare weight with saito 120 or dle-20
    by fealing its looks lighter than the two
    looks like 16x8 prop work as shown in the manual
    love the bella 16x8 scale carbonfiber prop
    has black base with yellow tips


  8. #1808

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF


    ORIGINAL: Johnysza

    Not sur how would the engine would perform since its a helli engine woth front carb
    just compare weight with saito 120 or dle-20
    by fealing its looks lighter than the two
    looks like 16x8 prop work as shown in the manual
    love the bella 16x8 scale carbonfiber prop
    has black base with yellow tips

    Are you sure this is a heli engine? On every store it says to be an airplane motor
    http://www.philshobbyshop.com/catalo...w_with_muffler

    Thanks!


  9. #1809

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    That is not a heli engine.

  10. #1810

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    rpm looks pretty good its the carb being at fron maybe even better " fresh air"

  11. #1811

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    I was reading lot of pages of this topic, all from 2010. Lot of people with negative reviews, problems with the landing gear bay structure due to poor wood, no reinforcements or not enough glue, causing the wing to break easy on not too much hard landings.

    I want to know if the actual P51 Blue Nose has all these issues fixed. Because I'm planning to go on Top Flite's P51.


    Sorry for bad English!
    Thanks!

  12. #1812
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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    Metz;
    I went with the Top Flite P-51 ARF and never look back. I now have two Top Flite P-51 and just pick up the ESM 72.5 P-51B model. I think you will be happy with the Top Flite model!!
    I hope this help you.
    Sonny
    aka
    jet22b
    Spitfire Brotherhood #12
    P-40 Brotherhood #52
    Great Planes Citabria DLE 35RA CC

  13. #1813

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    yes reinforce it with wood corners blocks and use 30min eppoxy around it also inside the wing wespecially around the wingtube its weak.
    also use not just wood but carbonfiber sheet around the firewall it need epoxy the sh.t out of it.If you spent about 2hours on reinforceing than you going to have a strong plane.also a good hint;use a round shape insulation spange tube for inside the landing gears tire so ig wont break the rim works great.
    use a lot more throwes on aleron the manual sucks.
    fly it scale its a buttyful plane come in with some speed with flaps flate it out,let it satle down it self easy landings evry time
    oh also I used a sheat of rubber as a shim under the retracks struts (for sock absorber)

    H9 p-51 mustang bluenose,dle-20
    via McTube for YouTube.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEXVvYXCNhs



  14. #1814

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    [img]webkit-fake-url://92FEE92E-BAD5-4BFE-890B-A6BFCB018958/imagejpeg[/img]

  15. #1815

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    [img]webkit-fake-url://805D973D-8735-4E4F-BF67-8FC7F0BA671D/imagejpeg[/img]

  16. #1816

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    RE: NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

    What servos are recommended for use with a DLE-20 gas engine?
    I was planning to use::
    Throttle and Rudder: Futaba S3004 (2x)
    Flaps: JR DS821 Digital (2x)
    Ailerons and Elevator: Futaba S3305 MG (3x)
    Will this be enough?
    Or should I use all metal gear servos with this gas engine because of vibration?

  17. #1817

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    I'm going all metal geared digital on mine, also going with a twin 6volt NiMh battery redundancy system on the radio due to there being nine/ten servos in total (ten if I set a choke servo up), with a separate 4.8volt nimH battery on the motor - I'm not a fan of removing the batteries to charge them, as my hands don't fit inside these things so well.
    The pitts muffler is a definite, as it limits the amount of exhaust sticking out the side. That said, to keep the prop spacing to a minimum, I'm going to grind a 'little' off the firewall where the carb bolts and choke butterfly make contact. Also have a different tank going in it since I can't use the factory firewall opening the way I have set her up.
    Raptor 50 Nitro heli - OS50 Hyper
    56\" Yak54 w/ ASP.61 2 stroke, 73" gas Sbach 342, H9 P51 blue nose in progress (with DLE20)

  18. #1818

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    My turn after all this reading of heartache and a clear love hate relationship.
    I have the revised version.
    went with DLE 20 and taking all the advice to heart.
    What a choice after 3 years out of the hobby. I had the "Marie" and thought it could only get better.
    The build has been a pain at times, battling with hatch door quality mainly...
    Weight 10P 8 oz(4.9kg)
    Ground tested tomorrow....

  19. #1819

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    Kinda miffed with having to go with a pitts now that DLE have released a DLE20 RA (rear exhaust) - it look like the ONLY bits that would pop out would be the exhaust tips, and POSSIBLY the sparkplug as that now looks to be angled back
    Raptor 50 Nitro heli - OS50 Hyper
    56\" Yak54 w/ ASP.61 2 stroke, 73" gas Sbach 342, H9 P51 blue nose in progress (with DLE20)

  20. #1820
    HoundDog's Avatar
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    Where is your CG. Placed mine right where the plan says and I kicked the wheels forward 3/4 to 1" with .270" shim under the rear of the retract and it still noses over on taxi. Can't even get it to taxi on short grass.
    Remember ... Every one of these Things we fly Comes with a Number, When the R/C Gods call that Number, it's going in a Garbage Bag, No Sniveling Allowed.
    P-47 Thunderbolt Brotherhood #24 & #43

  21. #1821

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    not sure where to set my CG now actually...... Manual says 117mm - 127mm starting at 127mm, in inches....(4 5/8" - 5")
    Is this what the old manual range was?
    Im interested in the difference if there is one as all thread recommendations point to 4.5" ...114mm( which is out of spec.

    thanks

  22. #1822

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    ok finally did my maiden yesterday evening and what a pleasant surprise.
    I have not flown in 4 years, didnt think it worth it to buy a new sim but did make a few passes past the LHS to play with theirs.
    I was at an advanced level 4 years ago but you do loose the touch a bit

    ok so here is what happened...
    Take off was VERY short, as I forgot to accelerate slowly, I straightened out and went straight to 3/4 throttle.
    Plane swung a little left and I could not bring it back onto the runway so went to WOT gently lifted the wheels over the grass runway edge. Kept the nose level till speed and gently lifted up.
    Shew! Was nearly a bad start but all well.
    Wheel up.
    Trimmed out the elev and ail. Not much needed. Started with slight down trim on the elev as stated on the forum and it was fine. (funny looks at the field) but some surprised ones afterwards when it was dead on.

    Did some rolls and loops. DLE20 only had 1 tank through it prior to maiden.
    Tested 0% 50% and 100% flap stall. No tipping, really dead slow before stalling, surprising a bit with a weight of 4.9kg, think that's around 10.5 LBS?

    2 low passes dropping speed on 50% flaps.
    And in to land, nice and smooth, nice low speed handling, retracts work great! (RT88's needed a gear change before the maiden though as those gears strip very easily it seems).
    Tracked down the runway nicely.
    What a plane!!! (All smiles here in Sunny South Africa)
    I had the older H9 Marie and it flew very similar to the marie, felt a bit heavier but it was much more forgiving than I was expecting from this forum.
    I did bring the ailerons down to 60% dual rate as it was much too high.

    Build problems:
    All hatches were shocking. didn't line up at all. and the corner covering looked like a dogs tail after you screw them in, or maybe my heavy hand.
    I upgraded all flap and aileron screws from the standard to 4mm. Heavier option, but your whole plane relies on these covers staying put and I didnt feel the sheet screws were sufficient.
    Matt coat is a pain, but it sure looks good. I think a % of the matt is already off the plane from fuel, cleaning.
    Retract options limited due to mounting size holes of the retract system. I strengthened the mount with epoxy prior to installing the retracts.
    Flaps very messy to set up on Y lead. During the build I bought a new 8 channel XG8 from JR and put them on separate channels (Old radio was an old 35MHz Tx, helped with the gasser interference)
    Elevator setup - could really be better? Preferred the Marie with servos towards the rear. I still am not sure the reason the elevators are not joined in the rear? I may do that later on.
    Rear tail gear - come on H9, I expect better than that for what I pay for the kit.
    Scoop wood screws - you must be kidding? was this an after thought? I reversed the wing mounting bolts - screw into the wings from the fuse and the scoop just fits on over the hook
    Joined the wing as all prior H9 models require this and I know it adds strength.

    ...But it flies like any good H9 kit has that I have owned! just sits on the track you have fed in and looks 100% better than the marie! love the look.
    And those retracts are the best! Love them!!! Marie was on piano wire and required a bend straight after every flight just from the roll.

    Setup

    DLE20
    JR8 channel 2.4Ghz
    JR and Hitec Servos.
    (all JR591's for surfaces except elev , RT88 for retracts, Heavy duty digital Hitec for Elevator( lost marie due to retract failure on elev 4 years ago.)
    4.9kg
    CG 4 5/8" (117mm)
    3200mah battery running both ign and Rx
    switches mounted internally as well as fuel dot.
    Throws:
    all same as manual except ailerons reduced significantly. I had elev on dual but never used the low rate which was a surprise as I heard the elev was sensitive. maybe my hands never threw it all the way.

    Overall I think the kit quality for building has deteriorated. I had some very frustrating moments. It is not a first time builders kit.
    It is also not a beginners model to fly.
    I have not tested the envelope but suspect it can bite if you expect too much.
    I hope to have many more flights with George
    Some pics from the field prior to Take off with the runway in the back ground...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  23. #1823

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    Great review, with no apparent sugar coating as it was all to the point. Makes me feel a LOT better with mine.
    As for the retract servo's, a 4mm wide strip welded in the servo opening was all you need to do to fit a standard retract servo - I went with 6.5kg Bluebird metal geared digital's in mine, look to be solid as a rock in locking both up and down positions, and running of a Y-lead - what a piece of cake that was!.
    As for that rudder rod and for how it connects to the tail wheel, now THAT was a total pain in the butt. This thing was not built with 'man hands' that's for sure!
    Raptor 50 Nitro heli - OS50 Hyper
    56\" Yak54 w/ ASP.61 2 stroke, 73" gas Sbach 342, H9 P51 blue nose in progress (with DLE20)

  24. #1824

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    thanks... waiting to hear on yours....

  25. #1825

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    Don't hold your breath. Summer is starting here and I still need to get fully confident with my Yak54 before I fly this one (the yak is set up like a low wing/tail dragger trainer)
    Raptor 50 Nitro heli - OS50 Hyper
    56\" Yak54 w/ ASP.61 2 stroke, 73" gas Sbach 342, H9 P51 blue nose in progress (with DLE20)


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