NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF
#1926
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Wont need any reversing on the gear servo. The gear servos are purpose oriented. meaning only good for retracts.
They do swing 180 degrees.
They do swing 180 degrees.
Last edited by charlie1960; 06-10-2014 at 03:49 AM.
#1927
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Paul60, you don't need to reverse the gear servos at all.
Just ensure that the servo horns are orientated in the same direction at a given switch setting (either pointing towards or away from the frame connection point), and the gear will work with the right sized servo horn regardless of if it turns either anti or just clockwise (there's enough clearance on mine at least).
Just ensure that the servo horns are orientated in the same direction at a given switch setting (either pointing towards or away from the frame connection point), and the gear will work with the right sized servo horn regardless of if it turns either anti or just clockwise (there's enough clearance on mine at least).
#1928
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Thanks Charlie & Bob,
I am just testing all my servos on my bench with the Tx, Rx & a 4.5v battery pack. I haven't even taken the RT88's out of the box yet & was using a pair of old hitecs to set the channels up.
I didn't realise the JR retract servos rotate 180d.
Do you think putting the 2 flap servos on seperate channels is a good idea?
I am just testing all my servos on my bench with the Tx, Rx & a 4.5v battery pack. I haven't even taken the RT88's out of the box yet & was using a pair of old hitecs to set the channels up.
I didn't realise the JR retract servos rotate 180d.
Do you think putting the 2 flap servos on seperate channels is a good idea?
#1929
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Also, my tx can be setup to raise/lower the gear at slower (scale like) speeds. Do I run the risk of stripping the RT88 gears doing that ?
I'm thinking the servos would be fighting the mechanical force of the retracts ?
I'm thinking the servos would be fighting the mechanical force of the retracts ?
Last edited by Paul60; 06-11-2014 at 12:24 AM.
#1931
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Thanks Charlie,
Although after reading the RT88's specs, I'm not sure they can be setup to move that way ?
It appears they are either one way, or flick the switch & they jump 180d the other direction.
Maybe I would need digital retract servos to achieve that ?
I'll have a play around with them. Would look nice to have them operating at a scale speed.
I have one of those cheapy Turnigy 9x radios running er9x software that allows control over servo speed. Even one gear before the other etc.
A lot of Tx for the price. I have a FrSky module in it now and lots of mods inc telemetry, LiFi battey etc.
Although after reading the RT88's specs, I'm not sure they can be setup to move that way ?
It appears they are either one way, or flick the switch & they jump 180d the other direction.
Maybe I would need digital retract servos to achieve that ?
I'll have a play around with them. Would look nice to have them operating at a scale speed.
I have one of those cheapy Turnigy 9x radios running er9x software that allows control over servo speed. Even one gear before the other etc.
A lot of Tx for the price. I have a FrSky module in it now and lots of mods inc telemetry, LiFi battey etc.
Last edited by Paul60; 06-11-2014 at 04:18 AM.
#1932
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when you install the servo in the retract you'll see they oppose one another. It takes care of itself.
you'll see how the linkage attaches. its straight forward, no hassle. theres a video on youtube somewhere that shows the retract
out of the plane, operating.
That sounds like a hell of a radio. Im still 72ing it. an old JR 8103, ive had it for 5 years and I still don't know what all it
will do. as I get farther along with my current Mustang project,(72 inch TBM P-51D) im going to check out a 2.4 modual for my JR.
you'll see how the linkage attaches. its straight forward, no hassle. theres a video on youtube somewhere that shows the retract
out of the plane, operating.
That sounds like a hell of a radio. Im still 72ing it. an old JR 8103, ive had it for 5 years and I still don't know what all it
will do. as I get farther along with my current Mustang project,(72 inch TBM P-51D) im going to check out a 2.4 modual for my JR.
#1933
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Thanks Charlie,
Yes, It will make more sense once I start assembling those retracts I guess. I'm just trying to get the Tx setup for now. Make sure everything moves & centres the right way.
That Turnigy radio cost about $80 from Hobbyking. I was a bit sceptical at first but I opened it up and all the soldering, pads etc looked pretty well done.
Then I added a programming board and updated the software with this er9x and it is an extremely powerful 9 channel Tx. The Frsky module with telemetry Rx works great too.
To be honest though, I'd rather be flying than tinkering with programming a Tx all day ! Once it's all setup I shouldn't have to touch it again.
Yes, It will make more sense once I start assembling those retracts I guess. I'm just trying to get the Tx setup for now. Make sure everything moves & centres the right way.
That Turnigy radio cost about $80 from Hobbyking. I was a bit sceptical at first but I opened it up and all the soldering, pads etc looked pretty well done.
Then I added a programming board and updated the software with this er9x and it is an extremely powerful 9 channel Tx. The Frsky module with telemetry Rx works great too.
To be honest though, I'd rather be flying than tinkering with programming a Tx all day ! Once it's all setup I shouldn't have to touch it again.
#1936
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Just an observation, but I noticed when fitting the gear into the wing, the 4 attachment bolts are not 100% aligned with the captive nuts in the wing.
I'm wondering if all the past gear mount failures people were having could be traced to this ?
I could hear the balsa wood & ply creaking & protesting as I screwed them in.
One wing was worse than the other.
I'm wondering if all the past gear mount failures people were having could be traced to this ?
I could hear the balsa wood & ply creaking & protesting as I screwed them in.
One wing was worse than the other.
#1937
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I had to take a round file to the holes and slightly slot them, worked out very well.
I also shimmed the back of the retracts with a popcicle stick to get the gear to lean just a touch forward.
I also shimmed the back of the retracts with a popcicle stick to get the gear to lean just a touch forward.
#1938
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Thanks Charlie
I might remove them and look at doing the same. Lot's of tension on those holes.
Did you just ream out the wood above the nuts to give a bit more wriggle room ?
#1939
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When I installed the flap servos, I have each servo arm in its centre (pointing down) position, That gives me a throw that extends the flap full down.
To retract the flaps through their Mid to Up postion, the servo arm needs to move towards the wings leading edge ???
Have I installed my servos incorrectly or is that how it is?
Everything looks correct. I followed the measurements as per the manual for locating the servos on the flap hatch cover and have made up 2 x 63mm push rods all as per the manual.
Confused !
To retract the flaps through their Mid to Up postion, the servo arm needs to move towards the wings leading edge ???
Have I installed my servos incorrectly or is that how it is?
Everything looks correct. I followed the measurements as per the manual for locating the servos on the flap hatch cover and have made up 2 x 63mm push rods all as per the manual.
Confused !
#1940
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I made the holes in the retract frame fit the blind nuts in the retract bay. I slotted the holes with a rat tail file (round file)
The servo arm if I remember right, needs to be rotated on the shaft to get the right amount of travel.
If youre getting full flap and full retracted flap, I wouldn't touch a thing. you got it right.
The servo arm if I remember right, needs to be rotated on the shaft to get the right amount of travel.
If youre getting full flap and full retracted flap, I wouldn't touch a thing. you got it right.
Last edited by charlie1960; 06-17-2014 at 04:57 PM. Reason: cuz i can
#1944
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Does anyone know what mufflers work best for this plane & the Saito FG-21 ?
I've narrowed it down to two.
The RC Specialties http://www.rcspecialties.net/ or the Keleo https://www.keleo-creations.com/
The Keleo 'concept' is pretty awesome, but to be honest, I have Tony Howards scale manifold kit and I think it looks way nicer than the Keleo (even if it is fully functional). If only the Keleo stacks could be made to work with Tony's kit, that would be heaven !!!
Still, I'm really hoping to keep my cowl as intact as possible.
Does anyone know if the RC Specialties muffler works with the Saito FG-21, and with minimal hacking of the cowl ?
I've narrowed it down to two.
The RC Specialties http://www.rcspecialties.net/ or the Keleo https://www.keleo-creations.com/
The Keleo 'concept' is pretty awesome, but to be honest, I have Tony Howards scale manifold kit and I think it looks way nicer than the Keleo (even if it is fully functional). If only the Keleo stacks could be made to work with Tony's kit, that would be heaven !!!
Still, I'm really hoping to keep my cowl as intact as possible.
Does anyone know if the RC Specialties muffler works with the Saito FG-21, and with minimal hacking of the cowl ?
Last edited by Paul60; 06-21-2014 at 05:33 AM.
#1945
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Ok, started fitting the gear door panels. The first side I've fitted doesn't sit flush with the wheel bay. Protrudes by a few mm's. Might have to fiddle around to get it to lay flush.
One tip:
I quickly gave up on the manuals suggestion of tacking the gear door in place with CA and all those fiddly measurements, messy pencil marks etc.
I cut the pointy ends off two wooden meat sticks & sat them upright in each bolt hole on the gear door retainer. Lined the door up, pressed gently down & the result is two small pin holes, perfectly lined up & ready to drill the holes.
One tip:
I quickly gave up on the manuals suggestion of tacking the gear door in place with CA and all those fiddly measurements, messy pencil marks etc.
I cut the pointy ends off two wooden meat sticks & sat them upright in each bolt hole on the gear door retainer. Lined the door up, pressed gently down & the result is two small pin holes, perfectly lined up & ready to drill the holes.
Last edited by Paul60; 06-22-2014 at 06:40 PM.
#1946
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Way off topic, but if someone could give me some information I would sure appreciate it. I have a Hangar 9 Miss America that I am in the process of rebuilding. The fiberglass cowling is cracked and the canopy is very yellowed. Does any one know if these two items will interchange between the two models? I know that the Miss A was the same airframe as the the Marie version. Thanks in advance,
Andy
Andy
#1947
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Way off topic, but if someone could give me some information I would sure appreciate it. I have a Hangar 9 Miss America that I am in the process of rebuilding. The fiberglass cowling is cracked and the canopy is very yellowed. Does any one know if these two items will interchange between the two models? I know that the Miss A was the same airframe as the the Marie version. Thanks in advance,
Andy
Andy
Hey Andy,
not that familiar with the other H9 models you mention. Are they 60 size ? If they are, you may be able to use the cowl and canopy from the Bluenose.
Good luck.
#1948
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I have run into another problem.
The wheels (Tyres) rub, get stuck in the gear bays as they retract. Very tight fit. I'm surprised my RT88's haven't stripped out (or burnt out) !!
What are my options regards adjustments ?
Anyone else had this problem who might be able to help me out with some advice.
Cheers,
Paul.
The wheels (Tyres) rub, get stuck in the gear bays as they retract. Very tight fit. I'm surprised my RT88's haven't stripped out (or burnt out) !!
What are my options regards adjustments ?
Anyone else had this problem who might be able to help me out with some advice.
Cheers,
Paul.