Danorn

My Feedback: (1)

"The wheels (Tyres) rub, get stuck in the gear bays as they retract. Very tight fit. I'm surprised my RT88's haven't stripped out (or burnt out) !!

Anyone else had this problem who might be able to help me out with some advice"

Paul I, any many others, had to enlarge the wheel wells in order to fit the forward shimmed wheels. Enlarging the holes just to the point of damaging the cups worked for me as there was a lip I took off. I tried smaller wheels, however, on our grass field nose over was worse.

Paul60

Thanks Danorn,

I notice the struts are too long, pushing the bottom of the tyre against the inboard side of the well.

I'm going to hacksaw a couple of mm off them and see if that helps. That, and a little sideways play by slotting (enlarging) the 4 mounting bolt holes might give me enough adjustment ?


They need to be absolutely precise to go in and out without rubbing.

I also see why the gear doors won't close flush. They don't sit flush against the strut as the scissor is in the way. The strut would need to close further into the wing with some spacers used to hold the gear door off by a couple of mm.

Anyway, I'll have a play around. I'm not keen to start hacking the wheel wells just yet. I might have to though!

Paul60

Another problem in this build.

One of the 4 blind nuts that hold the cowl on is stripped or gunked up.

Anyone know what size these are please ?

EDIT.

It's ok. I don't plan on using the canopy bolts, so I stole one from there.

I took them both out as I am going to use a 'bungy' (aka rubber band & a hook) to hold the canopy down as insurance should the magnets not be up to it.

Paul60

I added the instrument panel sticker to the cockpit. It was supplied seperately to the main decals.

Just wondering, are the main decals the same (just stickers) or can they be applied like plastic model decals with water & a little washing up liquid to slide them around for positioning ?


Ok, sorted:

When all else fails, RTFM !

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

bump....getting ready to build a DLE powered Blue Nose!

Paul60

Hey tman!

Good luck, it's an awesome plane once you get a few wrinkles sorted out.

I'm nearly fininished.

Running a Saito FG-21

Keep us posted

Paul60

My build is stalled at the moment whilst I try and sort out a retract issue.

Burnt out a servo already as the wheel keeps getting stuck in the wheel well.

Its like that both sides, but one side is worse than the other.

Paul60

How much rudder throw are you guys getting ?

I just noticed I'm lucky to have about 1' 3/4" either way.

Danorn

My Feedback: (1)

I think I don't have any more, if not less, than that. Mine is quite responsive on the ground, so I rarely have it on any high rates other than to taxi.

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

The retracts look nice, but it appears they don't function well?

I'm going to order a new DLE-20, would the standard work fine or would the rear exhaust be better? Trying to justify if the price difference is worth it on this plane.

Paul60

Thanks Danorn

I tried to butt the rudder up to the vertical fin as close as possible when I glued the hinges so to minimise any gap. Well, I left a tiny gap.

It's limited my throws but still should be enough.

Paul60

Hi tman

The retracts are awesome. It's the wing setup itself that has caused issues. The wheels don't quite line up with the wheel wells and you need to make all sorts of mods and adjustments to get them to fit without binding.

I think the DLE with rear exhaust would be better. You want to do all you can to avoid cutting up that lovely cowl to make room for the exhaust.

I'm going to order a RC Specialties muffler for my Saito FG-21 so it can exit the bottom without any need to hack the cowl.

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the feedback Paul. I think I will order the rear exhaust model DLE-20 instead. I would save the difference in muffler cost.

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

Do I need anything special servo wise for flaps? I wouldn't think digital servos would be required?

Paul60

I'm just using standard Hitec 485HB's all round & 2 x JR RT88's for the retracts.

I'm hoping they will be ok but I'd have gone metal gear next time just for peace of mind.

Although I have seen dozens of large (fuel) models over the years using standard servos without issues.

The guy at the LHS (where I bought them)assured me that the standard Hitecs would be fine. They are the Karbonite version.

I used my Tx (Tgy 9x) to mix the flap movement without need for a matchbox or reverse servo.

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

I'm still on the fence about what servos to use. I have the Hitec 75BB retract servos on order, just need to make my mind up about the others. I'm used to spending $$ on the digital/hi torque servos for 50cc 3D planes. I'm thinking digital servos aren't necessary with this bird.

Paul60

I agree. I don't think this plane really needs anything out of the ordinary regards servos.

This is my first petrol 4 stroke though. That's the only reason I could see to need beefier servos. But, as I said, my LHS dealer has been flying all sorts of RC planes for years and reckons the karbonite Hitec's are plenty good enough.

I don't think digital would be any advantage either. I plan to fly mine as scale as possible. The odd loop & roll. No high G 3D stuff.

Paul60

I have a Taranis Tx and have ordered a pitot telemetry airspeed kit for this plane. http://www.alofthobbies.com/n2-airspeed.html

Should provide me with airspeed cues for safe approaches!

JazzboneCuit

One of my RT88's stripped out on me after a couple seasons flying it...found out the RT88 is discontinued and the closest match I found was the Hitec 75BB, however the mounting holes for the servos don't line up as the 75BB is a little bit smaller. Now you could probably redrill the holes with a bit of sizing up. At first I opted to just replace the gears in the servo, but then decided to see if the 90 degree electric retracts from the P47 would fit...and they do, you can mount them up to the back holes and just redrill the front mounting holes. You'll also need to take off about 4mm from the struts as well. Just starting that process now, I'll post some pics when they're done...

Since the Blue Nose is still in production, I'm wondering what HH is recommending for the retract servos now that the RT88 is discontinued.

Jazzbone

Paul60

You can still find the RT88's on Ebay.

Spektrum also do a retract (not sure of the part no).

I really like the fact the RT88's bolt right in.

Shame they are so weak.

kiwibob72

I just had a guy at my then work add (weld) in a 4mm wide bit of alloy into one end of the opening to shorten it enough to add normal retract servos. Any local sheet metal shop with a tig welder should be able to make the same adjustment for anyone who pops in.

Danorn

My Feedback: (1)

I used the Spektrum 7040 retract servos, and they were a direct bolt in. I run them with their own 7.4v batt.

Paul60

I have a lot of sticky glue residue left from the tape that was holding the various access hatches.

Any idea what i can use to remove the glue without damaging the ultracote ?

scaleCAguy

Here is my modified Hangar 9 P-51 60 size.

I became board after flying it so much so I modified it.

Clipped two ribs from wing tips, built up wood nose, put on racing canopy and built up turtle deck top.

It now flies great with a YS FZ70.

Great fun plane!

Paul60

That is awesome. Nice work!