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NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

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NEW H9 P51 Mustang 60 ARF

Old 10-10-2014, 11:23 PM
  #1976  
Paul60
 
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Does anyone know what Tamiya/Humbrol colours match this bird ?

I think the main aluminium colour is Tamiya Flat Aluminium.

Not sure about the blue though.?
Old 10-15-2014, 04:18 PM
  #1977  
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Hey Danorn,

Can you please enlighten me as to how you wired up your retracts on their own battery ?

I guess I need a small 7.2v Lipo and disconnect the Pos/Red wire from the y harness ?

I ended up ordering the Spektrum A7040 Retracts as the JR88's were no good.

Last edited by Paul60; 10-15-2014 at 04:21 PM.
Old 10-15-2014, 08:01 PM
  #1978  
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Paul
Yes that's exactly what I did and also ran a separate switch for them. Initially I didn't have a switch but it wasn't the best setup. Someplace on this forum there is a wiring pic of how to do it. I'll see if I can find it.
Old 10-15-2014, 08:14 PM
  #1979  
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Originally Posted by Danorn
Paul
Yes that's exactly what I did and also ran a separate switch for them. Initially I didn't have a switch but it wasn't the best setup. Someplace on this forum there is a wiring pic of how to do it. I'll see if I can find it.
Thanks Danorn,

That would be awesome.

I found a wiring diagram somewhere on here but it only shows an example with a single servo.

What I want to get clear in my mind is how to connect 2 retract servos, off a single channel, with a Y cable on thier own battery.

I just don't want to fry my new Spektrum 7040's when they arrive !

Last edited by Paul60; 10-15-2014 at 08:16 PM.
Old 10-16-2014, 08:23 AM
  #1980  
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Post 1124 shows the wiring and explains the second Y needed at the retract servo and one is reversed (thanks Rip n Bank )
Old 10-16-2014, 03:00 PM
  #1981  
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Thanks Danorn,

Much appreciated.

Cheers,

Paul
Old 11-04-2014, 12:04 AM
  #1982  
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I just finished extracting the RT88's & installing the Spektrum A7040's

Wow! What a world of difference & that's just on 6v.

The wheels still rub against the tubs, but the 7040's have enough grunt to overcome even that.

I really need to get my angle grinder out and take a few mil off the bottom of the struts and I should be good to go.

Don't want to push my luck with the wheels still rubbing against the tubs as they are.

Thanks for the heads up. These are by far the best retract servos for this plane and a perfect fit with no mods needed.
Old 01-06-2015, 08:12 AM
  #1983  
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I am working on my P51 and I have the DLE-20RA mounted. I am trying to figure out what size prop to use and I've read everything from a 14x10 to a 17x6. Any recommendations???? Much appreciated.
Old 01-06-2015, 01:48 PM
  #1984  
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Originally Posted by tman52748
I am working on my P51 and I have the DLE-20RA mounted. I am trying to figure out what size prop to use and I've read everything from a 14x10 to a 17x6. Any recommendations???? Much appreciated.
While I've not run mine yet, there was a older DLE20 thread where they tested thrust and RPM on a range of props, and I think the Xoar 16x8 came out as the benchmark one to look at - well at least that's why I brought one!
Old 01-07-2015, 07:38 AM
  #1985  
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16x8 it is, thanks!!!!
Old 01-08-2015, 12:01 AM
  #1986  
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I'm using a MAS 16x6 Scimitar Prop with my Saito FG-21 just till I run it in.
Old 01-09-2015, 01:36 PM
  #1987  
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What are you using for ignition and rx battieries, A123, nimh, etc..?
Old 01-09-2015, 11:48 PM
  #1988  
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Originally Posted by tman52748
What are you using for ignition and rx battieries, A123, nimh, etc..?

I'm going with the ignition pack & a couple of the flight packs from these guys.

http://www.boomarc.com/en/lifep04-receiver-batteries
Old 04-08-2015, 08:19 AM
  #1989  
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Bump.

What is the best CG recommendation?
Old 04-08-2015, 03:49 PM
  #1990  
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Hi,

The manual suggests 4' 7/8" but most threads I read, people are recommending 4' 1/2"


Good luck!
Old 08-08-2015, 01:55 PM
  #1991  
Clayton M
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Default I need some help guys

Ive been fiddling with this project for quite a while now. I have the Hangar 9 P51 bluenose with FG 21 gas engine. The problem is that the plane will not run properly with the cowl on. It develops air bubbles in the fuel line. When i run it with the cowl removed it runs perfectly but as soon as the cowl goes on the air bubbles show up. Ive pulled the fuel tank and put in the sink and pressurized it.......no bubbles came out. Ive moved the fuel filling line out of the cowl and into the fuse to prevent vibration of any gas induced in the line from the cowl mounted fuel dot. Ive drilled a hole behind the diaphragm hole in the carb and there is 1mm of space between the firewall and this carb. Ive basically run out of ideas on what could be causing this issue. Im wondering if its heat related and the carb is getting vapor locked which is inducing bubbles into the fuel.

Id sure appreciate any advice anyone may have on this thing........its beginning to be quite frustrating. Has anyone got this specific plane and engine running with cowl on? Id be interested in knowing your setup

Best regards.

Clayton
Old 08-08-2015, 01:58 PM
  #1992  
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It's not the plane, it's the motor. Put a DL 20 in it and you will be happy. The Saito is a piece of ****. Saito is running a gas engine with a glow carb and needle valve.
Old 08-08-2015, 02:05 PM
  #1993  
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Simple question Clayton, are you running a sintered clunk, or the standard clunk that came with it in the kit?
I ask as the standard one will not take out the air bubbles that form in the tank due to engine vibration, whereas the sintered one will do just that prior to the fuel entering the lines thus removing the air bubbles for you. If nothing else, it's a quick and cheap option to try before being rash and possibly replacing your engine.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD741

PS - my 26cc powered 30cc Sbach rattles and shakes like a mad thing causing the gas in the tank to almost 'froth' up when running, and not a single thing comes through to the motor in as far as bubbles as a result of that simple sintered clunk being in place and doing what it's there to do (remove bubbles from the line).



Last edited by kiwibob72; 08-08-2015 at 02:11 PM.
Old 08-08-2015, 02:12 PM
  #1994  
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Hi kiwi bob,
Yes i have a sinterd clunk in the fuel tank. I read about that somewhere before and put one in. I get no bubbles at all when running with the cowl off but get bubbles with the cowl on which tends to suggest something other than the fuel tank and supply. im completely at a loss at the moment. Only thing i can think of is its heat related. Horizon tech support had no answers either.
btw, i swapped the carb as well and that made no difference. There must be someone out there that has this combination running.......I think tinkerman rc had one running

Last edited by Clayton M; 08-08-2015 at 02:14 PM.
Old 08-08-2015, 04:38 PM
  #1995  
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Thanks for the comment. Do you run the rear exhaust or side exhaust DL?
Old 08-08-2015, 04:40 PM
  #1996  
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Originally Posted by Clayton M
Hi kiwi bob,
Yes i have a sinterd clunk in the fuel tank. I read about that somewhere before and put one in. I get no bubbles at all when running with the cowl off but get bubbles with the cowl on which tends to suggest something other than the fuel tank and supply. im completely at a loss at the moment. Only thing i can think of is its heat related. Horizon tech support had no answers either.
btw, i swapped the carb as well and that made no difference. There must be someone out there that has this combination running.......I think tinkerman rc had one running
Hi Clayton,

Yes, Tinkerman RC had the same motor & problem. He cut an opening in the front of the cowl with some kind of ducted pipe running to the carb. Problem solved. He has a youtube video of it.
Old 08-08-2015, 05:42 PM
  #1997  
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You have a resignating vibration problem and you have to isolate it otherwise you will have the problem regardless of the motor.
1) cowl screws - I would tapp holes, incert plastic pushrods for the cowl screws to hold and this will remove medal to wood contact
2) tank is it isolated as best as possible from vibration.
3)Take a thin bicycle tube cut thin strips line the portion of the cowl that touches the wood.
I believe the tolerance of the cowl screws is not securing the cowl in the best manner , then you run the engine, the cowl vibrates and generates vibration thru the fuse and that impact the fuel
Old 08-08-2015, 06:38 PM
  #1998  
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Interesting ideas LDM. Thanks for the insight. The original ARF had the neck of the tank supported at the firewall adjacent to the engine mounts........this setup shook the tank like hell and caused bubbles in the line with and without the cowl on. I bult a tank support about an inch back from the firewall, cut a big hole in it and lined the anulus with foam where the tank was supported. Also provided foam in all the saddles that support.touch the tank. The fuel line does not touch any part of the fuse except for a small cable clamp that again ive lined with foam. I will try your ideal regarding the cowl attachment and inner tube strips. Incidentally i used a similar concept between the engine rails and the firewall to isolate the engine as much as possible.
Old 08-08-2015, 06:39 PM
  #1999  
Clayton M
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Thanks for the heads up Paul. I recall seeing something like that where Tim used an exhaust deflector up to a scoop he glued into the cowl to provide fresh air to the carb intake. I have the deflector, now will have to make a scoop of some sort.

Clayton
Old 08-09-2015, 02:37 AM
  #2000  
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Good luck Clayton , great ideas on your tank, sound like that is really buffered .Normaly I would suggest checking the prop ect but you have been clear that all is well until you add the cowl. In my opinion that is the area that needs your focus "buffer the cowl" in any way possible !
Good luck

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