cdbtx

*LOL*  I'd have to compare the weight of the motors.  The E-Flite Power 90 is pretty heavy, but I make my own motor mounts out of aluminum.  Attached to the motor mount is my Turnigy 100amp ESC.  Like you, I'm using the shelf and sliding the batteries to the firewall - using the two Turnigy 5000ma 4s and 1 Turnigy 3000ma 2s (For the BEC). 

With that configuration - I haven't checked the weight that needs to be added, but it won't be much - it's very close, but especially with the maiden flights I prefer to be safe and adjust later...   made that mistake once and won't repeat it..

Plus the Power 90 has plenty of power running 8 cells..   Sitting here with 3 planes waiting to be maidened... and getting ready to start the build on a Ziroli Stuka and Ziroli P40... (crossing to the dark side on those and going gas)..   Trying to avoid flying the P47 until after a Feb static display show...

Chuck

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Ok now I feel better chuck!

are motors are very close to the same wieght and I have a heavy motor mount... sounds like I'll be fine

Thanks Chuck
good luck when you maiden her.. it looks great
Top Flight has done an amazing job with there ARF's... make my hanger 9's look silly

Ron

Sierra11861

How do you do that scale detailing to monocote??

maddingo

Sierra,

I have not done detailing myself on monocoat however from what others have done I've seen marker lines and dots to represent panel lines and rivets. Also some people have done very well at creating weathering.

See Top-Flite.com for some tools and try the RCU search engine for some threads.

Dave

cdbtx

Thanks Ron and I'll agree with you on the Top Flite ARF's absolutely the best that I've found.

Sierra11861

Do they not have a delete your own post option on this board?

Sierra11861

The lines I can deal with, it is the weathering that I am wondering about. My guess is they clear coat the monocoat with a clear flat spray I suppose AFTER they do the detailing with regular model paints/dry using dry-brushing techniques.........But like you said, i should look into this before trying it...do't wnat to screw up a $300 model

VeeAte

Click edit on the post you want to delete. Then you can just remove the text.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I test flew mine yesterday.......... This could be the best flying warbird I've owned. I was worried that a .91 would not be enough engine. I think it's perfect.
Thunder Tiger .91 four stroke
APC 14x7
10.4 lbs dry

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

bushong - NICE flying field! How many miles of clear flying area do you have there? .

Ed

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

We're very fortunate. The flying field has been around for 30+ years.
1) 500 ft paved runway and 2) 350 ft paved runways
covered pit area
all taxi ways are paved

Recent oil drilling has been encroaching on our field, though.

Sierra11861

Just finishing up the wing construction. So far this ARF is very impressive. I am knid of taking my time building to savor the moment

Sierra11861

Woah, finially finished the wing. That seemed like it was a lot of work for a ARF wing. I suppose it was the flaps servos and landing gear that added a lot.

I hollowed out the center rib downward about 3/8" and installed the servo tray much lower in the hole so that you did not have to bend the wire to attach to the servo arm. I think it works better than if you had to bend it, but I don't know since I did not install it with the bends as the directions show to do. There was definiately some confusion on where the servo arm needed to start out. Directions a little vague but I got it handled. My advice is to operate the servo arm gently by hand to get it in the ballpark before you hook it up to your transmitter.

maddingo

Hey guys,

Im slapping a G20EI on my bird and of course this engine has its own mounting plate and the holes dont line up with those put in the firewall. So I have two challenges.

1. How do I know where to exactly mount my engine? What do I use to line it all up perfectly?

2. Once my holes are in the fire wall are made, there are those metal screw holders inside the firewall, how do I get ride of those???

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

Dave

cdbtx

For the electrics I just line the center of motor dead center with the large hole in the firewall.    Draw a vertical and horizontal line on the firewall dead center through the hole...  then you can square the lines to match your new motor mount holes..


You can remove those metal thingys.. (LOL for the life of me I can't remember what they're called now) with a screw driver - they may have some epoxy on them too - but they'll pop out easily enough.

Sierra11861

They are called blind nuts. the best way to remove them is to put CA disolve on them (if they are glued) then screw in your bolt a few turns and gently tap the bolt toward the hole and it will pop out the back, then unscrew the bolt and it will fall out inside the fuse. Then pick of the fuse and dump them out

Ralphbf

My Feedback: (27)

Unless they are in the way leave them in.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Looks like the other 'build thread' got trumped by this one. If iterested, more details of mine can be found here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...tm.htm#8886011

A well hidden Saito 1.00 GK swings a Master Airscrew 15 x 7. This setup is really more power than I need, let alone use (servo not setup to fully open throttle). A .91 would have worked just as well, I just happened to get a really great deal on the 1.00.

All 3 wheels retract, mains have #650 RoboStruts (no offset/ scale), functional Vortac bomb drops, and still just ever so slightly over 10 lbs (without fuel and 'ordinance'). Main retract units are stock ones, it uses 1 hi torque/ lo profile PROPORTIONAL servo per retract, which are realistically slowed down via Futaba 12FG programming.

First flown in August, 2009, it depicts a P-47D-28-RA (Evansville, IN built) flown by Lt. Robert A Laho.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LJxPYYiKFo[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7_qtPhTD9s[/youtube]

Sierra11861

Excellent! Loved the bomb drop and the slow retracts! Can't wait to finish mine

Sierra11861

Finally finished! Nothing too exciting here, pretty much a spec build. I did paint the cockpit, no pilot though but I can add one later on. Will post some pics when I get a chance. Just snowed 6 inches so it looks like I will have a while before maiden flight..

RBean

Hey Maddingo,

Let us know how the G20 works out in this thing. I'm really interested as I have an RCFG 20cc gasser, rear carb that has no home at this time. I'm a little concerned that the TF P-47 with a 63" wing span might be too small for this engine. I've seen gassers installed in the Hanger 9 P-47 but it is bigger with a 65" wing span.

maddingo

RBEAN,

At this time my build is going well. The fuse is glassed and the wings are now together being glassed this week with tail feathers, ailerons etc.

To make it all fit in the cowl the G-20 is fitted with a 90 degree carb intake bend from TONI CLARK and the muffler from Bisson here in canada. Now the two are up against each other and Ill have to make some kind of adjustment.

However being up north and the time I am away from home I can only hope this model will fly this year. But I would bet on 2011.

Any how im now playing with flite metal and I plan on making this a Jackys Revenge P-47. The cowl with diamonds will be tough. CJM retracts in the wings.

Best.

rino

My Feedback: (121)

Hi,

Can anyone comment on the stock retracts. I'm not worried about scale looks. Do the stock retracts hold up. Do they work well?

Thanks!

dbronst3790

My Feedback: (2)

The stock retracts work great. After many flights I've not had any issues with them at all.

rino

My Feedback: (121)

Thanks. That's great news. If this plane can fall in the 10 pound range it might be a really nice flyer. I was thinking of the OS 120 AX for power.