NCIS

I have used a couple different kit cutters and have to say that Laser Cut USAwas very good and treated me well when I needed extra parts. I haven't ever used PCK but will say I won't slander anyone. So I won't mention the name of the other cutter that did a rotten job and used poor quality wood. Who do you keep going back to and PLEASE tell mewhy?

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

Mike Emilio

I had great service with Da Lizard.

wingspar

My Feedback: (3)

I chose other and the kit cutter is me.

I perfer to have complete control over the cutting process from selecting wood densities to any changes I make in the overall design due to personal preferance.

Cutting my own kit comprises less than 1% of the total build time.

Dave

t_burley

My Feedback: (59)

not another poll Ziva

lasercut USA

NCIS

This time around I'm having A&MModels modify and cut my 124"Ziroli Corsair. Has anyone had any experience with Alex before? Good or bad please speak up!

Barry

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Barry,

Did you mean AK-models, A&M models or M&A models?

I know Alex from AK-models. Are your plans already digitized? I didn't think Alex was generating files. I thought he only cut from provided files. Maybe you mean someother Alex from A&M models or M&A models, or whatever.

NCIS

Is the Alex your talking about from Mexico? He has an accent!!!That is the one I'm dealing with and now he is in Florida. Here is his website a-mmodels.com
Barry

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

The Alex I know has an accent, yes. But it's a Russian accent. And we're in Iowa. Your Alex and my Alex are definitely not the same person!

Interesed to hear how it goes with A&M Models. Never heard of them before.

Keep us posted.

Regards,

Noah

NCIS

Type in the wesite above just as I have in your search box. Then you will see his site!

Barry

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

I have used Alex many times. His cutting is on the money and his turn around time is great. Plus he's very reasonable as far as price. He's local to me in Florida so thats another plus. Great customer service. He might satisy even you Barry

Peter

His website http://a-mmodels.com/

NCIS

Peter,

I am hard to please I guess but up til now he has gone out of his way to do it. I am really looking forward to getting this 124" Ziroli Corsair from him. He is sometimes hard for me to comunicate with but we get by. Being a Police Officer in Houston, Texas and dealing with Mexican people for 25 years I started to undertand them somewhat well. I am happy you responded because until then I had my worries that nobody ever used him before me.Thanks for the input.

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

ihave used jesse at lazer lizard , and he did a quality job , and would use him again , but i can never remember how to spell it , forsome reason .

NCIS

I think you spelled it right and if you didn't I spell it wrong too!

Barry

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

Barry,

No problem, your welcome. I use e-mail and he was right back with the replies. Except for some type-o's that we all have it was pretty straight foward on the communication front. I am eager to see your build. I opted out of the three piece wing on my "classic" 96 inch version after thinking with my set up, itwould require about6 bolts to deal with rather than 2 and at worst someone holding the plane on its nose.

All the best

Peter

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Barry,

NCIS

Peter and Wulf190,

Ihave to have three pieces and the Byron system is the only way I can do it because with tubes I'd have to part the wing outside of the outer flap and thats to wide for my van doors. I don't think I'll need more than two because I'm also putting bolts from the center section to the tip panels via hatches on the underside of the wing that will be held shut with magnets. I'm thinking two per panel with 1/4" ply on the inside of the rib in thecenter section and also for the blind nut on the inside of the rib on the panel side. I'm going to use short 1/4-20bolts and a quick one piece ratchet wrench for tightening and removing them. That will keep the wing from twisting and also hold it together. Basically all the bar and c-channel will do is carry the wing load. It will be a 2" c-channel 1/2" wide and 7" long and the bar will be 1 1/2" x 3/16" thick by about 16" long. What ever it takes to go through 3 bays of ribs and into the 7 " c-channel.

Wulf190,

I would cut my own parts but I don't think I have enough tools. I do have a scroll saw, a band saw, a circular saw, miter box saw, and a drill press. Would I need more than that.?I know I would need a vertical sander for sanding the ribs and other parts. Or would I?

Thanks guy's,

Barry

ww2birds

My Feedback: (14)

Best kit cutter ever was Gary Madden. Don't think he is in the business anymore. Old school, sawn + sanded. No one else I've seen even comes close.

I have one of his Z Skyraiders in the bones, and an unbuilt Z P47 and F8F that are in the "vault":-)

Dave McQ

NCIS

Dave,

Cool license plate. I love it. I never thought of doing that.

Barry

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

That's probably even more than I have Barry. Fear not. It's true what's stated about it not taking a big percentage of build time to cut the whole thing. It's more intimidating to think about than to actually do it. Once you're going on cutting parts, it's actually quite rewarding. For stuff like a Platt kit, it's easy.... for something like a Z. Hellcat, then it's more work obviously for all the stringer cutouts. It just seems like there's always a couple of parts missing, or hidden in the plan templates that get left out when getting a kit....not to knock the kit cutters...it's understandable. I've always just found it easier and faster to just cut any missing parts vs. calling and ordering, even though I know the cutters would supply it....just don't wanna get slowed down once I'm going and need the part.

Typically I get a lot of use of the Dremel scroll saw, and the disc/belt sander to get the parts close, then just hand sand to get to the line on the templates (mounted with spray glue).....or better...use SeeTemp material from Dynamic Balsa and make a nice set of templates that you can reuse. The stuff is great. Cutting stringer notches can be done in a variety of ways, but isn't so time consuming with the correct and preferred tool/method. A vertical sander is nice, but not really essential IMHO. I burned out my first disc/belt sander from Harbor Freight, as it got a LOT of use, but it was almost kind of rewarding to know that it just plain wore out from all the sanding. The second unit is going strong after several years still. Forstner bits help a ton for interior holes and cutouts too. Your drill press comes in handy for that. In some cases the Rotozip is a great rough cut interior hole tool as well.

M.

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Here's the greatest tool that I ever purchsed for kit building (aside frommy band saw):

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001769.php

It's makes very fast work of finishing rough-cutplyand balsa parts

G-Pete

second to that, Jesse is da man...

www.laserlizard.com/

aston70

My Feedback: (1)

I've used Alex at AK-models a little over a year ago and he did a wonderful job. I'm thinking about using him again for my next project. He's reasonably priced I think.

dadragon

hey 2birds,I put together one of maddens A-1's from ziroli too in 1996 and did one heck of a kit everything was rite on,it went together like spreading butter on bread. geo.

ARUP

Same as Wingspar..... ME! I have entertained the thought if only it was a little less expensive ('expense' is relative). I look at all the 'stuff' I can buy by saving money and cutting myself. The money saved allows me to buy 'value' in lieu of 'price' toward hobby supplies. It's all good! Tailwinds, ARUP

lostin1960

alex guzman A&M MODELS coral springs Florida web site A-MMODELS.COM USES BETTER THAN LITE PLY