Meister 1/5 scale P-47
#1851
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
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Gary,
at at the end of the process, do you spray clear over the aero-foil or leave it as it is. If clear, is it satin ? If no clear, how fragile is it ?
thanks
frederic
at at the end of the process, do you spray clear over the aero-foil or leave it as it is. If clear, is it satin ? If no clear, how fragile is it ?
thanks
frederic
#1852
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Here is a link to the area on the Meister web site to find it. There are other sources for similar products but I prefer Dino's service and Areofoil for it is slightly thinner than most other products. Easier to form around compound curves and such.
http://www.aero-accessories.com/Builders.html
#1854
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Now you can clear it and this will give you an instant weathered effect. I have seen it done with satin and flat. I personally don't like it. Might as well paint it with silver IMO.
Nomenclature. Yes, if you don't protect it with clear is is vulnerable. I ask, did they clear over the original? No. Dry transfers are paint anyway. In time, they will get some abuse, but again, so did the real thing! Patina, I think they call it. When we get a rub, scratch, small ding, or loose a letter, great I say!!!!! More Patina!!!! Looks better all the time.
The adheasive on this stuff is tough. You don't want to have to pull it off. It is durable for years of use even in areas around exhaust and fuel. Even more so than some kinds of paint. Plus detailing the surface (rivets, fasteners, panel lines, hatches, etc) is much easier than with paint.
Another debate that raged for awhile was the possibility of radio interference due to the all metal covering. This has been proved a non issue.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-24-2015 at 08:36 AM.
#1855
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Just keep in mind, this stuff is .0012 thick. Thinner than paint. Everything you see or feel on the surface prior to application, will translate right through. You want to prepare the surface just as you would for paint, including the tack cloth or dust removal. Then you are ready to apply the foil.
For access panels, non moving hatches, etc, I use 2" HVAC aluminum tape from the hardware store. It is thicker and does a good job standing out. Goes on the very same way. Look for the kind that doesn't have brand name writing on the outside.
For access panels, non moving hatches, etc, I use 2" HVAC aluminum tape from the hardware store. It is thicker and does a good job standing out. Goes on the very same way. Look for the kind that doesn't have brand name writing on the outside.
#1856
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: London, UNITED KINGDOM
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Gary,
thanks for the information. This makes a lot of sense to me. It is interesting that you note how strongly this sticks. I was concerned that paint masks would pull on the foil when removed.
thanks again
Frederic
thanks for the information. This makes a lot of sense to me. It is interesting that you note how strongly this sticks. I was concerned that paint masks would pull on the foil when removed.
thanks again
Frederic
#1860
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BTW, Chromate Green, or Chromate yellow? Here is the way to tell.
The RE units, manufactured at the Farmingdale plant, had Chromate Yellow. The RA units from the Evansville plant had Chromate Green. Some colors were changed in the field, but this is the way they started out.
The RE units, manufactured at the Farmingdale plant, had Chromate Yellow. The RA units from the Evansville plant had Chromate Green. Some colors were changed in the field, but this is the way they started out.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 01-25-2015 at 02:49 PM.
#1861
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Thought I would post a link to the new Solo Prop company. The new owner is Patrick Wallace. I sent him an email to inquire about his new operation, in the middle of the night (some of you know my hours :-)), hoping for a responce maybe the next day. It came in just a few minutes!!!!! A very thorough explanation of his new operation, what he can do for owners of the older props, and his lead time goals. all very promising.
http://soloprops.com/meet-the-new-owners
http://soloprops.com/meet-the-new-owners
#1862
Good question Frederic. We debated this 6 years ago when we first started using foil. In the end, we decided NOT to clear it in any way. As a result our aluminum has been able to 'weather' naturally, and IMO, it gets better looking every season. When first applied, you will want to sand it with a good 400 wed / dry to give it an initial weathered look. If you don't, the aluminum looks more like a new F-86 than a WWII fighter in the fight. I mask off panels and sand them in opposite directions. This gives them an individual character.
Now you can clear it and this will give you an instant weathered effect. I have seen it done with satin and flat. I personally don't like it. Might as well paint it with silver IMO.
Nomenclature. Yes, if you don't protect it with clear is is vulnerable. I ask, did they clear over the original? No. Dry transfers are paint anyway. In time, they will get some abuse, but again, so did the real thing! Patina, I think they call it. When we get a rub, scratch, small ding, or loose a letter, great I say!!!!! More Patina!!!! Looks better all the time.
The adheasive on this stuff is tough. You don't want to have to pull it off. It is durable for years of use even in areas around exhaust and fuel. Even more so than some kinds of paint. Plus detailing the surface (rivets, fasteners, panel lines, hatches, etc) is much easier than with paint.
Another debate that raged for awhile was the possibility of radio interference due to the all metal covering. This has been proved a non issue.
Now you can clear it and this will give you an instant weathered effect. I have seen it done with satin and flat. I personally don't like it. Might as well paint it with silver IMO.
Nomenclature. Yes, if you don't protect it with clear is is vulnerable. I ask, did they clear over the original? No. Dry transfers are paint anyway. In time, they will get some abuse, but again, so did the real thing! Patina, I think they call it. When we get a rub, scratch, small ding, or loose a letter, great I say!!!!! More Patina!!!! Looks better all the time.
The adheasive on this stuff is tough. You don't want to have to pull it off. It is durable for years of use even in areas around exhaust and fuel. Even more so than some kinds of paint. Plus detailing the surface (rivets, fasteners, panel lines, hatches, etc) is much easier than with paint.
Another debate that raged for awhile was the possibility of radio interference due to the all metal covering. This has been proved a non issue.
I´ve also used waterslide decals which found out very durable, only the USAF stars were painted. all the other markings are decals and they were perfect
the only issue is that the surface must be very strong using fiberglass & hobbico cloth... I dont know what I did wrong at that time but my surface was not 100% rigid... so, the aerofoil would wrinkle in few parts, and even small bumps and scratches would scratch it...
but the finishing itself was awesome!
Brazilian Air Force... =)
#1869
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Good question Jerry. Thank you. Normally, I would make some sort of mechanical latch. However, in this case, I'm going to use earth magnets and a small bump of aluminum at the bottom as a finger grip to pull it open. I hesitate to use magnets where air pressure in the fuselage can push the hatch open, but in this case, the area is completely sealed from inside air pressure.
#1875
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Video on setting up the tail gear with the Down and Locked electric conversion.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYOCJ...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYOCJ...ature=youtu.be