ram3500-RCU

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This is the way I mount the fuel pump. This puts the pump right under the tank for almost instant priming.

ram3500-RCU

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Air system for the main gear doors. Tank, electronic air valve, with the fill valve and air gauge under the main service hatch where, on the full scale, the compartment for the oxygen tank was, on the right side just behind the cockpit (seen in post #1879). The two rails is where the fuel tank is mounted, centered directly on the CG.

ram3500-RCU

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This is the control box for the electric gear and air doors. The box in the picture is the back side of the hatch where the fuel dot is located, under a scale hatch in size and location that housed the fuel cap for the main fuel tank. Only two hatches, both scale in location.

pitsspecial

Hi guys,

i picked up a part started Meister P47 yesterday, it's got Sierra retracts with it, it shows the Robart unit on the plan, how did you mount yours? Looks like the unit is mounted horizontal.

thank you,
Dave.

ram3500-RCU

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Hello Dave. I'd like to welcome you as a Meister P-47 owner. Congratulations on finding one. If you have had them before, you know how wonderful they are. If this is your first, you will find it to be a wonderful plane to fly and one that will give you years of reliable service. Dino at Meister is outstanding with customer support as well.

Now, to your question. Yes, the Sierra tail gear mounts horizontally. Hopefully, the builder didn't join the fuselage to the tail yet. The gear install is MUCH easier to do before the tail is glued on. Mounting the gear, the tail doors, the door control system, routing the rudder pull pull cables and push rods for the elevators, assembling the horizontal stab, running any wiring for the tail light and such, can all be done before the tail is glued on. Now as for the gear, I just don't see a way to make it easily removable on this airplane. However, the parts that you would ever need to service are accessible, so I don't see it to be a big deal. I epoxy the crap out of it and install a bulkhead around it to carry the load to the top. I'll post some more pictures of this.

Again, welcome, and feel free to share your project with us all.

cheers,
Gary

ram3500-RCU

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pitsspecial

Hi Gary,

thank you you for your reply, yes it's my first Meister, I see yours is a glass fibre fuz, the one I have is a all wood kit, it's only had minimal work done to it, tail feathers have not been built yet so no problem there, looks like I need to glue a ply plate between the two formers either side of the tail wheel unit to bolt it to, Ive spoken to Dino through Facebook, he's been very helpfull so far, did you change any of the airframe in any way? Mine has had some of the fuz formers cut away to reduce the tail end weight, I see the stabiliser has no spar? Does it need one or is it ok as per the plan? I intend to use a DLE120cc in it.

Thank you,
Dave.

ram3500-RCU

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Our personal ship (Zombie) the original build in this thread is the all wood version like yours. It has proven to be tremendously strong. I built the fuselage per the plans with no problems. The stab is just fine as designed. You may find a lot of helpful pictures if you go back in the thread to the building of Zombie. When you build the rudder, hollow out that big block of wood you carve. Every ounce of weight you save in the tail, is about 4.5 in the nose. One thing I did later was to fill the belly pan with spray foam. Makes it virtually indestructible during those belly landings. You will likely have a couple as this airplane will last many years. I have had two with the 2-stroke engine, and one with the Moki. Virtually no damage. Also 3 dead sticks with the gear down (rather have had the gear up). This is in upwards of 100 flights now.

Here is one at the Cleveland national air show. Just before touching down, I braked a little by pulling the nose up, then going back to level. No damage even on the tarmac. Just scraped up the aluminum a little. In this case, a fuel line popped off the return to the tank (somebody forgot to install the clamp) and the tank was pumped dry.

ram3500-RCU

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All batteries installed.

ED Nano 6.6v 2500 - RX
ED Nano 6.6v 2500 - RX
ED Nano 6.6v 5000 - lights (overkill, but we had it on hand)
LiPo 7.4v 4000 - fuel pump
LiPo 7.4v 4000 - ignition
LiPo 7.4v 2200 - electric gear

ram3500-RCU

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Service console inside the main hatch. All switches are up / on and down / off. (all this will be labeled)
All batteries can be charged here. The two RX batts can be balance charged via the ED switches.

Red - fuel pump / ignition
Blue - lights / gear
Black - two RX
bind port
air service (main gear doors only)
air pressure gauge

ram3500-RCU

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Hatches. Covered with aluminum.

Fuel service hatch (scale location and size, where the service cap for the main fuel tank was)


Main battery / air service hatch. (Scale location but just slightly larger to eliminate the necessity for a third hatch, compartment where the oxygen tanks were)

ram3500-RCU

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For years I have been experimenting with different methods of latching and unlatching hatches. I wanted to find a simple way that is 100% reliable. Not good to have a hatch that you can't get open when your flight is done. I opened my car hood the other day and it came to me. Here is what I have come up with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MzE...ature=youtu.be

ram3500-RCU

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new inter-cooler door design.

ram3500-RCU

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Inter-cooler doors installed to test operation. Second video is the full scale for comparison.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrpTsH3X9NY

http://wn.com/p-47_intercooler_door

ram3500-RCU

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The construction of the intercooler doors.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKE2...ature=youtu.be

ram3500-RCU

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Some more pictures of the hatches and their cable push open system.

ram3500-RCU

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The push buttons to open the two hatches will be mounted in the instrument panel. The black dots show where I think they will work nicely.

tailskid

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Gary, did you use some silicon on the back side of those Miracle Switches? I've used them a lot, but I've also heard those wires can short out!

Jerry

ram3500-RCU

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Thank you for mentioning that Jerry. Yes, I use them a lot as well because the design is so good, but I always use either silicon or RC 56 on the back where the wires come out to prevent them from cracking. In this case, I used two coats of RC 56.

The only complaint I have with them is the quality of the wires. What you and I do though is sufficient I think. I have not had any failures doing that.

pitsspecial

Hi Gary,

your doing sing a great job with the detailing! Love the working inter cooler doors! Gary, what are you doing about elevator servos? Are you fitting them in the tail Plane? Or are you having carbon rods/snakes?

thank you,
Dave.

ram3500-RCU

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Thank you Dave. I am always mindful of what a great builder my brother is, so my fuselages need to be just as nice as his wings. Everyone knows he is the "wing man".

On the elevator servos, I keep those heavy metal gear servos up front and close to the CG. 1 once in the tail means about 4.5 in the nose.

In the picture below, you can see all the major control servos. This area is directly below the cockpit. The rear two are the inter-cooler servos (push rods), the outermost two are the elevator servos (push rods), the one in the front center is the rudder servo (pull pull), and the rear center one is for steering the tail wheel (pull pull).

ram3500-RCU

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Here is a picture showing the cables for the door openers winding through the compartment and entering the area in front of the instrument panel. They are the small yellow #514 cables. You can also see the rails where the fuel tank will mount, the electronic air valve, a couple of the JR satellite RXs, the electric gear control box, all the batteries, and the ignition box. Next is the plywood deck the throttle and choke servos will be mounted on, which sits behind the ignition.

pitsspecial

Wow! That was a quick answer! Thanks for the photos, that's easy to understand, so what material are you using for the elevator rods and what diameter are they? Last P47 I had is the one in my avatar, and had two big metal geared servos in the elevator so made it tail heavy, this one I don't want to do the same and like your idea!

Dave

ram3500-RCU

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On this one I am using the Sullivan #518 golden rods for the elevators. Light, rigid, and strong. 4-40 rods will be screwed into each end.

BTW Dave, which Jug is that in your avatar? Nice looking bird, although I'm partial to the razor back.

ram3500-RCU

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Must keep the tail as light as possible. We even hollow out that big block of wood you carve, as part of the rudder.