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Meister 1/5 scale P-47

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Meister 1/5 scale P-47

Old 03-13-2015, 09:49 PM
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Here is a video I put together on the inter-cooler doors and there set up on the radio and operation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GYk...ature=youtu.be
Old 03-14-2015, 06:49 PM
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Here is the resin antenna that Dino sells for this plane. We section it so the top can be removed for transporting and storing. 1/8 x 3/8 earth magnets hold it together.

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Old 03-14-2015, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyBuilder
Looks like covering is next! What do you use to branish the aluminum tape with? I will be trying it for the first time and have no qlue.

TB
Found a picture of the tool we use. The #8 blending stick. You will also want to have a piece of something very hard. I use a piece of maple or bass with tight grain and concave it very slightly. You need this to smooth out the occasional slight wrinkle. They can be manipulated out most of the time, by working the surface with the hardwood. No sharp edges. Also buy Exacto blades buy the box of 100 at least.

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Old 03-15-2015, 02:56 AM
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Gary thanks for the info on the burnishing tools. I have seen pics of guys trimming the sheets after they have been payed down with a ruller and a #11 blade! Does this not cut the glassed surface? Any info helps, thanks.

TB
Old 03-15-2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyBuilder
Gary thanks for the info on the burnishing tools. I have seen pics of guys trimming the sheets after they have been payed down with a ruller and a #11 blade! Does this not cut the glassed surface? Any info helps, thanks.

TB
The foil is only .0012 thick. It cuts with very little pressure. It does dull blades rapidly though, and then you will find the knife just tearing instead of cutting. Dipping the blade in mineral spirits lubricates it and increases blade life, but you will still change them out frequently.

Here is a link to the product we use. http://www.aero-accessories.com/Builders.html
Old 03-15-2015, 01:37 PM
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Here is Dino's antenna installed with our mod. A brass post goes all the way threw the turtledeck and into the fuselage and is glued in to provide solid support.

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Old 03-15-2015, 04:25 PM
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Thanks Gary, yes I ordered some to try out and I have a box of 100 #11 blads as for some cuts I will only use once or twice and then go to a new blade.


TB
Old 03-15-2015, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyBuilder
Thanks Gary, yes I ordered some to try out and I have a box of 100 #11 blads as for some cuts I will only use once or twice and then go to a new blade.


TB
You're welcome Tony. Depending on how long the cuts are, yes, it is sometimes a new blade for every cut. After a panel is done, for the adjacent panel, I use masking tape on the edge of the excising panel, then cut the next panel no larger than the masking tape. That way when you trim the new panel, the excess is stuck to the masking tape and easily comes off. Foil has tremendous adhesion and can be very hard to get off of other foil. On large panels, we use a mist of Windex on the surface first. You squeegee it out with your blending stick and the adhesion is not effected. This keeps waste down to a minimum.
Old 03-16-2015, 02:18 AM
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So you lay masking tape on the foil at the line of the next panle then cut along the tape line removing the tape and the excess foil?
Land this does not cut the foil under the foil you are cutting? I will be experimenting on a homer bucket with the aluminum duck tape then a few pieces of the aero foil. I'm sure there is a learning curve. Fortunately this plane I am working on only has minimum tape applied, cowl, gear doors, fairings and the belly.

TB
Old 03-16-2015, 04:41 AM
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B
Originally Posted by TonyBuilder
So you lay masking tape on the foil at the line of the next panle then cut along the tape line removing the tape and the excess foil?
Land this does not cut the foil under the foil you are cutting? I will be experimenting on a homer bucket with the aluminum duck tape then a few pieces of the aero foil. I'm sure there is a learning curve. Fortunately this plane I am working on only has minimum tape applied, cowl, gear doors, fairings and the belly.

TB
No.The tape goes under the overlap. You don't want to double cut.

Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-16-2015 at 04:58 PM.
Old 03-18-2015, 09:07 AM
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Found this on fee bay. It has a nice explanation of the progression of factory marking changes through the production runs. It also has a complete list of all the 8th and 9th air force P-47 unit codes, and all the colors used as identification by ETO and MTO P-47 squadrons. It also lays out the all the basic insignias with dimensions, as well as the invasion stripes. Very useful resource. I'm also ways on the lookout for more research material to add to my library.

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Old 03-18-2015, 10:54 AM
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Great find. I wish someone would publish a spicific RC scale detailing book for some of these warbirds. I'm sure there is a market!

TB
Old 03-18-2015, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyBuilder
Great find. I wish someone would publish a spicific RC scale detailing book for some of these warbirds. I'm sure there is a market!

TB
Need to suggest that to Frank Tiano.
Old 03-20-2015, 05:12 AM
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Working on the front end. Here is a close look at my cowl flap system in action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p68...ature=youtu.be
Old 03-21-2015, 11:49 AM
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I have been working with these big radial engines for a few years now. They are heavy, with multiple connections to make, before and after they are bolted up, with all sorts of sharp pointy things protruding to puncture your hands. Always a pain. So I made myself a sling to suspend the engines in front of the firewall while I make connections at my leisure and get things lined up. Tasty.

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Old 03-21-2015, 09:51 PM
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All finished up hanging the engine and hooking it all up. A few more tips and demo on installing the cowl.

Just realized that I neglected to mention who's electric gear it is. Most of you may already know that I would not turn to anyone but the guys at Down & Locked for electric conversions. They are a pleasure to deal with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjJHw2ofBkU&feature=youtu.be


Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-27-2015 at 07:19 PM.
Old 03-24-2015, 06:36 PM
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Last look at the rudder hinge Brian built for this Jug. A little more complicated than the norm, but worth it IMO. Mirce did this on his and we appreciated it's appearance and function.

I took the rudder loose so I could get the elevators perfectly lined up with each other.

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Old 03-24-2015, 08:23 PM
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Tail feathers all done now. Working tail light is glued in for good. All cables and rods in place and adjusted.Gear working perfectly.

Video being uploaded now.

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Old 03-24-2015, 08:28 PM
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Won't be long. I remember well our first outing with Zombie and the Moki 150.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJWtAfwR4ug
Old 03-24-2015, 09:07 PM
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Here is a video of the tail group.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON0b...ature=youtu.be
Old 03-25-2015, 02:02 AM
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Question, what are you using for the hinge pin rood on the rudder and elevator?

TB
Old 03-25-2015, 04:37 AM
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Carbon fiber rod on the rudder, Robart hinge points mounted at the top on the elevators.
Old 03-25-2015, 05:24 AM
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Some pictures of that again. Bottom hinge anchor is made from G-10.

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Old 03-25-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ram3500-RCU
Carbon fiber rod on the rudder, Robart hinge points mounted at the top on the elevators.
On my prototype I used carbon fiber rod in the hinge like you have and had significant wear after about 4-5 flights so I switched to steel.

TB
Old 03-25-2015, 10:55 AM
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What did your CF rod run in?

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