MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
#2551
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hello Herald,
40:1 oil mix is just fine, I wouldn't change it. I have been using 40:1 from the beginning.
However, I do need some more information from you:
1. Your Biella Prop, what style is it exactly (Scale or 1-3B)
2. Are you using an Electric Fuel Pump
3. Are you using a Turbulator
4. Where are you flying (Sea Level or at Altitude)
5. What are the typical ambient conditions where you fly (Temperature and Humidity)
6. What are you current Needle Settings (both High and Low)
Please let me know and I will try to help.
Darryl
40:1 oil mix is just fine, I wouldn't change it. I have been using 40:1 from the beginning.
However, I do need some more information from you:
1. Your Biella Prop, what style is it exactly (Scale or 1-3B)
2. Are you using an Electric Fuel Pump
3. Are you using a Turbulator
4. Where are you flying (Sea Level or at Altitude)
5. What are the typical ambient conditions where you fly (Temperature and Humidity)
6. What are you current Needle Settings (both High and Low)
Please let me know and I will try to help.
Darryl
#2552
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Thanks Darryl
I change to 50:1 this weekend
I am not sure about the Biella styte.. but i think is regular.
I am not using turbulator or eletric pump
My level here is 1900 feet, temperature this weekend was 68oF
My needle is 1 3/4 high or a litle more and the low i need to check (using the default)
With the Xoar 32x18 the Prop get almost 4600 but i am flying with 4250 rpm.
The temperature after landing is almost 220/ 230oF in the upper cylinder.
Heraldo
I change to 50:1 this weekend
I am not sure about the Biella styte.. but i think is regular.
I am not using turbulator or eletric pump
My level here is 1900 feet, temperature this weekend was 68oF
My needle is 1 3/4 high or a litle more and the low i need to check (using the default)
With the Xoar 32x18 the Prop get almost 4600 but i am flying with 4250 rpm.
The temperature after landing is almost 220/ 230oF in the upper cylinder.
Heraldo
#2553
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Heraldo,
Thanks for the information.
1. The Density Altitude where you are flying is approximately 3000 feet, this means the air is thinner then the Standard Day Conditions at Sea Level. Therefore the default/factory Needle Settings will be on the RICH Side.
2. Your High Needle setting should be very close to 1.75 Open
3. Your Low Needle may be the issue and may be set too lean if you motor is getting HOT. A good starting point is 1.5 Open.
4. Your Xoar 32x18. Is this a 2-Blade Prop or a 3-Blade Prop?
5. On some of the Biela Props the first 4 inches of the propeller blade produce no cooling (a good example is the Fw 190 Scale Prop), as there is no airfoil section. However, It sounds like you ae NOT using such a prop.
6. What OIL are you using. The best product is CASTROL Power 1 Racing 2T fully synthetic, followed by RED LINE.
7. Since both of our flying conditions are similar there is no harm in a 40:1 oil mix (2.5%).
Regards, Darryl
Thanks for the information.
1. The Density Altitude where you are flying is approximately 3000 feet, this means the air is thinner then the Standard Day Conditions at Sea Level. Therefore the default/factory Needle Settings will be on the RICH Side.
2. Your High Needle setting should be very close to 1.75 Open
3. Your Low Needle may be the issue and may be set too lean if you motor is getting HOT. A good starting point is 1.5 Open.
4. Your Xoar 32x18. Is this a 2-Blade Prop or a 3-Blade Prop?
5. On some of the Biela Props the first 4 inches of the propeller blade produce no cooling (a good example is the Fw 190 Scale Prop), as there is no airfoil section. However, It sounds like you ae NOT using such a prop.
6. What OIL are you using. The best product is CASTROL Power 1 Racing 2T fully synthetic, followed by RED LINE.
7. Since both of our flying conditions are similar there is no harm in a 40:1 oil mix (2.5%).
Regards, Darryl
#2554
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Ok Darryl
I will try to check the low needle, maybe this is the problem..
My oil is Motul 800 (I think is one of the best oil available here in Brasil), I think more or less the same quality from yours.
My xoar is 2 blade
Do you think I can have problem with lean mixture because I don't have electric pump?
regards
Heraldo
I will try to check the low needle, maybe this is the problem..
My oil is Motul 800 (I think is one of the best oil available here in Brasil), I think more or less the same quality from yours.
My xoar is 2 blade
Do you think I can have problem with lean mixture because I don't have electric pump?
regards
Heraldo
#2555
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Question about the U20M-U plugs form Denso:
Are users of this plug gapping at 0.015" or 0.025", or somewhere in between?
I ask because the Denso website suggest different gaps depending on the small engine in which the plug is installed (and that's quite a range).
Not surprisingly, Moki, DA and DLE were not listed among the small engine manufactures.
I am going first with the smaller 0.015" gap, which should require less voltage for good full spark, but I thought I'd also seek some confirmation here.
Thanks,
Noah
Are users of this plug gapping at 0.015" or 0.025", or somewhere in between?
I ask because the Denso website suggest different gaps depending on the small engine in which the plug is installed (and that's quite a range).
Not surprisingly, Moki, DA and DLE were not listed among the small engine manufactures.
I am going first with the smaller 0.015" gap, which should require less voltage for good full spark, but I thought I'd also seek some confirmation here.
Thanks,
Noah
#2557
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hi guys,
I am not a Moki owner but I am thinking I will be very soon!
My friend at Siedel props and I are tinkering with this idea for the Moki 250 engine, have a look at our video and give us some feedback of what you think. He is performing the tests and makes his own props of course. This giant prop is still not enough to utilize all the torque, so he is moving on to the next prop design(dia will stay the same for a 1/4 Scale Corsair). This rough mounting was just to try the idea and now we will mount the gear set in a new front housing that would replace the original. The unit installed should only push the prop forward about .375"-.5"
http://youtu.be/UZ1_KryCrGk
Lots of details to work out, as its just the first test to see if the concept would even work....
thanks very much!
john
I am not a Moki owner but I am thinking I will be very soon!
My friend at Siedel props and I are tinkering with this idea for the Moki 250 engine, have a look at our video and give us some feedback of what you think. He is performing the tests and makes his own props of course. This giant prop is still not enough to utilize all the torque, so he is moving on to the next prop design(dia will stay the same for a 1/4 Scale Corsair). This rough mounting was just to try the idea and now we will mount the gear set in a new front housing that would replace the original. The unit installed should only push the prop forward about .375"-.5"
http://youtu.be/UZ1_KryCrGk
Lots of details to work out, as its just the first test to see if the concept would even work....
thanks very much!
john
#2561
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Darryl
I did more tests with the moki.
The low needle was open to 1 1/2 and high had to be close a litle to 1 5/8 more or less.
the engine is with more or less 4500 with the Xoar 32x18
The temperature was the same.. after landing 220/ 240oF
I did 4 flight and the engine is perfect.. but my point..
The strange think.. i can't see the carb, so i set up the servo until reach the max point with ATV 86%. But this RPM i get with 3 clicks dow in the trotle. So i dow the ATV to 66%. With full power the RPM drop 300 rpm.
i will need a mirror to check if the carb is full open but i never see a gas carb doing that.. what do you think? another idea is that the engine can't have all the fuel that need to full open carb so in this point is stronger than full open..
heraldo
I did more tests with the moki.
The low needle was open to 1 1/2 and high had to be close a litle to 1 5/8 more or less.
the engine is with more or less 4500 with the Xoar 32x18
The temperature was the same.. after landing 220/ 240oF
I did 4 flight and the engine is perfect.. but my point..
The strange think.. i can't see the carb, so i set up the servo until reach the max point with ATV 86%. But this RPM i get with 3 clicks dow in the trotle. So i dow the ATV to 66%. With full power the RPM drop 300 rpm.
i will need a mirror to check if the carb is full open but i never see a gas carb doing that.. what do you think? another idea is that the engine can't have all the fuel that need to full open carb so in this point is stronger than full open..
heraldo
#2562
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
My 150 does the same thing, and I've heard from others who also experience an RPM drop when the carb is at full throttle.
There could be a couple of explainations:
It could be perfectly normal, or,
The carb may not be able to deliver enough fuel to accomodate the amount of air coming in at full throttle.
If "not enough fuel" is the issue, that would explain why people are experiencing better results with teh external fuel pump. I purchased one of those pumps, but have not installed it yet.
There could be a couple of explainations:
It could be perfectly normal, or,
The carb may not be able to deliver enough fuel to accomodate the amount of air coming in at full throttle.
If "not enough fuel" is the issue, that would explain why people are experiencing better results with teh external fuel pump. I purchased one of those pumps, but have not installed it yet.
#2563
My Feedback: (10)
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
If you are getting 220 to 240 degrees F after flight, I strongly suspect that you have cooling issues / are running too lean. I was told that anything above 220 degrees F is overheating.
I'm not an expert, just passing on what I've been told.
I had what we believe was overheating issues on one of my 150s and better cooling, getting temps down to 210 F max has greatly improved its running, though I also experience that a 3/4 to 7/8 throttle position sometimes gives a better run.
Whit
I'm not an expert, just passing on what I've been told.
I had what we believe was overheating issues on one of my 150s and better cooling, getting temps down to 210 F max has greatly improved its running, though I also experience that a 3/4 to 7/8 throttle position sometimes gives a better run.
Whit
ORIGINAL: heraldoboldrin
Darryl
I did more tests with the moki.
The low needle was open to 1 1/2 and high had to be close a litle to 1 5/8 more or less.
the engine is with more or less 4500 with the Xoar 32x18
The temperature was the same.. after landing 220/ 240oF
I did 4 flight and the engine is perfect.. but my point..
The strange think.. i can't see the carb, so i set up the servo until reach the max point with ATV 86%. But this RPM i get with 3 clicks dow in the trotle. So i dow the ATV to 66%. With full power the RPM drop 300 rpm.
i will need a mirror to check if the carb is full open but i never see a gas carb doing that.. what do you think? another idea is that the engine can't have all the fuel that need to full open carb so in this point is stronger than full open..
heraldo
Darryl
I did more tests with the moki.
The low needle was open to 1 1/2 and high had to be close a litle to 1 5/8 more or less.
the engine is with more or less 4500 with the Xoar 32x18
The temperature was the same.. after landing 220/ 240oF
I did 4 flight and the engine is perfect.. but my point..
The strange think.. i can't see the carb, so i set up the servo until reach the max point with ATV 86%. But this RPM i get with 3 clicks dow in the trotle. So i dow the ATV to 66%. With full power the RPM drop 300 rpm.
i will need a mirror to check if the carb is full open but i never see a gas carb doing that.. what do you think? another idea is that the engine can't have all the fuel that need to full open carb so in this point is stronger than full open..
heraldo
#2564
My Feedback: (221)
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Hey guys, here is a link to my ad for the ignitions I have for sale.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...665&electric=0
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...665&electric=0
#2566
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
guys I am doing some tests with my moki S7 250.
I confirm that the engine is strong with more or less 85/90% of the carb open. when to the full open the engine drop almost 300 RPM.
Some people are saying that an electric pump will solve because the engine can get enough fuel. Question... if is true open the high needle will solve that. And won't..
anybody has an idea Hwy that?
I confirm that the engine is strong with more or less 85/90% of the carb open. when to the full open the engine drop almost 300 RPM.
Some people are saying that an electric pump will solve because the engine can get enough fuel. Question... if is true open the high needle will solve that. And won't..
anybody has an idea Hwy that?
#2567
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Heraldo, you must read the whole thread. Almost all your question will be answered(takes some time....)
Regarding your request: A moki shall NEVER have full throttle opening. Do like this: Open throttle until rpm stops increasing. Mechanicly adjust servo travel to the same throttle opening. Apply expo until you get a smooth increase of rpm over the whole stick movement and you will also get the best stick resolution. With 60/70 % throttle opening,there is nothing more to gain from the Moki.
/Straightleg
Regarding your request: A moki shall NEVER have full throttle opening. Do like this: Open throttle until rpm stops increasing. Mechanicly adjust servo travel to the same throttle opening. Apply expo until you get a smooth increase of rpm over the whole stick movement and you will also get the best stick resolution. With 60/70 % throttle opening,there is nothing more to gain from the Moki.
/Straightleg
#2568
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: john534
Hi guys,
I am not a Moki owner but I am thinking I will be very soon!
My friend at Siedel props and I are tinkering with this idea for the Moki 250 engine, have a look at our video and give us some feedback of what you think. He is performing the tests and makes his own props of course. This giant prop is still not enough to utilize all the torque, so he is moving on to the next prop design(dia will stay the same for a 1/4 Scale Corsair). This rough mounting was just to try the idea and now we will mount the gear set in a new front housing that would replace the original. The unit installed should only push the prop forward about .375''-.5''
http://youtu.be/UZ1_KryCrGk
Lots of details to work out, as its just the first test to see if the concept would even work....
thanks very much!
john
Hi guys,
I am not a Moki owner but I am thinking I will be very soon!
My friend at Siedel props and I are tinkering with this idea for the Moki 250 engine, have a look at our video and give us some feedback of what you think. He is performing the tests and makes his own props of course. This giant prop is still not enough to utilize all the torque, so he is moving on to the next prop design(dia will stay the same for a 1/4 Scale Corsair). This rough mounting was just to try the idea and now we will mount the gear set in a new front housing that would replace the original. The unit installed should only push the prop forward about .375''-.5''
http://youtu.be/UZ1_KryCrGk
Lots of details to work out, as its just the first test to see if the concept would even work....
thanks very much!
john
Nice!!! great to see that finally in the modelling world we are starting to think about using gear reduction on our motors to better match the full sized counterpart. Is the planetary gearbox you are using for the test an off the shelf unit? would be great to bolt that onto a dle55 for smaller warbirds!
Thanks
dave
#2569
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Sorry I did not start at the top of the thread, is there information here about any advantage the new velocity stacks offer, for an older Moki 250?
#2570
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Sorry I did not start at the top of the thread, is there information here about any advantage the new velocity stacks offer, for an older Moki 250?
#2571
My Feedback: (10)
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
Does anyone have a video showing the adjustment of the valve gaps? I have just finished doing mine (thanks to both Gotz Vogelsang and Mitch E ( Nine o Nine) for their patience in advising me on the process. I would enjoy / benefit from seeing a video on it, see if I followed their advise correctly. Seems simple but the Devil is in the details.
Whit
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RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
ORIGINAL: Moki4Ever
Sorry I did not start at the top of the thread, is there information here about any advantage the new velocity stacks offer, for an older Moki 250?
Sorry I did not start at the top of the thread, is there information here about any advantage the new velocity stacks offer, for an older Moki 250?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11450559
#2575
RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
I need a prop suggestion for my Moki 150....
I'm flying a 35% Pilot Yak, about 32 pounds (if I remember) and a 107" wingspan. I've tried a 26x14 and a 26x16, both of which just don't seem to give me much torque or speed. I thought that since the plane was relatively light for the motor, it could handle the extra pitch. Maybe not. If I do typical warbird bombing runs, it builds up a good head of speed, but looses it quickly on the upline. The motor turns over 5000 RPM on the ground with either prop, and I hate to step down too far in pitch... need to keep the ground RPM's around 5000.
Someone suggested a 28x14.... there's plenty of room for ground clearance. I hate to keep throwing money at props that aren't performing for me... any suggestions that will improve torque and still have decent speed from the plane? I don't 3D at all, just basic aerobatics, sport flying.
I'm flying a 35% Pilot Yak, about 32 pounds (if I remember) and a 107" wingspan. I've tried a 26x14 and a 26x16, both of which just don't seem to give me much torque or speed. I thought that since the plane was relatively light for the motor, it could handle the extra pitch. Maybe not. If I do typical warbird bombing runs, it builds up a good head of speed, but looses it quickly on the upline. The motor turns over 5000 RPM on the ground with either prop, and I hate to step down too far in pitch... need to keep the ground RPM's around 5000.
Someone suggested a 28x14.... there's plenty of room for ground clearance. I hate to keep throwing money at props that aren't performing for me... any suggestions that will improve torque and still have decent speed from the plane? I don't 3D at all, just basic aerobatics, sport flying.