Scott Prossen

GaryM,

I just got my head out of the clouds and figured out who you are. Man I wish there were pictures of the members next to our screen names.
Anyways, good to talk to you again. Was great meeting you at MP last month. How about some pictures of that project and the Moki of course???

Take care my friend,
Scott

GFoushi

Moki Lovers,

I thought I'd give an update on my 250... My engine is running and sounding great!! I have a dozen flights on her and all the nuts are holding tight on the collector ring. I used the High Temp RTV Silicone and it's doing its job well. I've had to clean out the clear tube of extra gear oil coming from the crank case a few times. Other then giving her a little oiling and cleaning everything is looking good!!

The first start of the day I have her fully choked, full throttle, ignition off and rotate the prop ten 360 deg. circles. Turn the ignition on, still fully choked and full throttle after the 3rd or 4th flip she pops. Then choke off and low idle and about the 3rd or 4th flip she fires right up!!!

On my maiden flight with the 250 my friend Paul video taped the flight and put together this attached video. He did a great job putting it together... Thanks, Paul.... I recently participated in Monster Planes and I attached a picture one of the photographers took!! This is one of my favorite shots of my plane at the event.

In closing all I can say is I Love my Moki!!! And I spent a lot of money for her but she is one hell of a ride....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usvw-spse6M

Hello82

Hey Greg

That's so good to hear all is going well and the video looks great....she really slows down on that landing! Great Job!! What's next?

I'm getting very close to installing my Moki 150 so I'll be asking many questions soon here...

Wish I could of made Monsters this year...next year!

Matt

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

After much local debate on wether the "little one Phittey" would fit in the ziroli corsair cowl......it will! But, its really close shave in one spot. All of the rocker bars have solid clearance but one has a bit more than an 1/8" in the extended position. I doubled up the fancy moki measuring device included with my Moki 150 (a piece cardboard from the box insert) to illustrate the point. If this cowl doesn't sit perfectly or stay in place, I'll have a nice little hole to prove everyone who told me to open this cowl right. Has any one dared to take a few of threads of the top on the rocker with a dremel? I know that everyone is probably going to yell back at me (NO!!!) but I thought I'd ask.

Scott Prossen

Peter,

Great photography! It looks good to me. I think that if you have a true 1/8" than there should be no need to shave a few threads off. Although it appears there are plenty of threads to spare if need be.

How many degrees of right thrust do you have the engine mounted at?

Keep up the good work,
Scott

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

I haven't gotten my .020 G-10 from Frank T yet, but I will be adding that to the left side as per your advice. I am trying to remember where that head is located? I think its left side.... so that should push it up and away from the cowl. But .020 is so small it may not change it much. If it does those extra threads may be shaved off a bit with a cutting wheel.

GaryM

My Feedback: (14)

Peter, looks like you and I are in similar situations. I am building the Meister Corsair which is also a snug fit. At the location where the rockers sit, my cowl measures 10 9/16. Sittting on the bench and placing the cowl over the motor It will slide 1/4 of inch from left to right etc. Looks like I also will have about an 1/8 of clearance. I have rotated the crank a couple of times trying to determine the length of the pushrod stroke and it might work out and it might get real close.

Seeing as how the adjustment screw uses a slot for adjusting rather than a socket head like Saito, I dont see a problem with cutting them down a bit and just cutting a new slot.

I went with 1 1/2 degrees of right and down thrust what did you use?

Gary

Doolittleraider

My Feedback: (72)

Hey Gary

I have the ziroli fiberglass fuse. I had to cut off a few inches of the front and make my own firewall to fit the moki. As far as thrust I didn't see it indicated on my plans. If it was built in the fuse I did a halfway decent job of perserving it. The .020 G-10 idea I stole from Frank Tiano's P-47 (Scott told me). Aside from that I am going to fly it and see how it goes. If its hard to keep straight down the runway or needs a Sh&@ load of trim I will add washers accordingly. I am sure plenty of "real" builders are cringing reading this post [X(]

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

I stuck the same intake valve again this weekend, easy to fix quickly but getting aggrivating. any ideas fellas? i just clean the carbon off the valve stem and good to go again. Jeff

GaryM

My Feedback: (14)

Maybe it is in the machining and tolerance of that particualr valve stem or the guide it is running in. Maybe it is just a little on the tight side.

Gary

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Jeff, Any chance the valve stem is bent? Mitch

mick15

You should'nt be getting carbon on the inlet valve stem, is the valve seating correctly?

m

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

Mitch i checked it with a caliper the first time it happened and the best I could tell it wasn't bent. The guide looks good and I cant tell that there is any wear on one side of the stem or guide which would be evidence of it being bent. After cleaning and a little oil it works as free as the rest. Whats strange is it's the Intake valve. The valve guide is nothing more than a piece of brass tubing. I'm going to talk with troy built and see if he can get Moki to replace the head. Jeff

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

I had an oops last week on my Stearman...actually construction fault....folded the wings on one side and the wild gyrations tore out the engine and mount in one piece. The resultant fall to the ground broke a valve pivot mount so I had to order a new head casting. I know the sum of the parts is more than the whole but I about SH** when I got the price. If you want my damaged head for parts Jeff let me know. It's got one good valve and guide. It's on my 215.....are you talking about the 150? If so then they won't match up anyway. Mitch

Hello82

yeah that was sad to see Mitch...sorry man!

but another Moki has found a new home

More measuring and slight adjustment and she's in...used the 5mm for now with regular nut in back to hold in place...might go to another US size so it's easier to get blind nuts etc.....might take a peak at McMaster Carr for 5mm blinds nuts though....maybe they are easy to get there?

Ignition will have to go in airtank area...upfront top is where the batteries will have to go...unless she ends up nose heavy????????

Cowl mounts will be tricky???..the ring method would have to be super thin to get around the Moki....clearance at the front where the rods are is about 3/8"....but the back has a bit more...

Happy TG everyone
Matt

2walla

My Feedback: (10)

Hi Mitch, What was the construction defect on the stearman? I have been looking at the BUSA stearman as a new home for my 250. I have looked at a couple and the wing spar didn't seem that strong to me. I would think that a CF tube would be a better joiner??
R/Mike

speedbird390

Hi there moki owners

I started my brand new 250 for the first time last night, very impressive engine, the sound and power is nice,

a short video of the first start
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6GNJxhzisE[/youtube]

a quick question for you guys [8D]
what is going on near the end of the vid ?
first I thought it was low on fuel but the tank was at 50%
so I suspect it may be low voltage in the ignition pack that make the engine run like this ? ?
the total run time was around 15min on a 1800 mAh pack
I edited it down to 1:30 in movie maker...

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

This is my 3d BUSA Stearman. The others over the years went in for one reason or another...not construction related. I believe I didn't do a good enough job of assembling the spar sockets on the upper left wing. When that went of course the lower ripped away since they're joined by the flying wires. Spectacular yes, expensive, very. PIA!!!!!! The 250 will do a fabulous job of overpowering a BUSA Stearman. Good luck, Mitch

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Speedbird,

What was the temperature of the top cylinder?? It should remain below 110 C. Be carefull, it is easy to overheat the engine in static testing.

It sounds like it might be overheating. Also, the carb needs to breath ambient temperature air, not hot air.

Use 30:1 oil and only run a few minutes and let it cool down, then run again.

Also, check your battery capacity. The ignition can draw as much as 1200-1500 ma, so fifteen minutes running will use up an 1800 mah battery if its not full.

speedbird390

Hi germrb
thanks for the info

the top cylinder was just at 105 C checked with a infrared thermometer,
the other cylinders was around 97 - 100 C
I was running the engine maybe 5 - 7 minutes at a time, total runtime 15 min... within 30 min or so...
maybe I did not let it cool down enough before starting it again...
ambient air temp was just above 3 C so I hope the carb was getting cool air

I use 30:1 fully synthetic oil mixed with Shell V-power gas

I will try an 3700 mAh ignition pack tomorrow night...

/Perra

Scott Prossen

Hey Guys,

Anybody out there been running a three blade prop on the 150cc Moki? Myself and a few others in the area have 150's on our warbirds and have been looking for info from anyone doing the same. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Perra,

The temperature sounds very good!! The larger battery should eliminate any question about power.
Operatiing at 3 C should take care of any heating problems, except for you.

What aircraft are you building for your 250?

Good luck,

goneflyin2002

Scott, I'm also very interested in the 3 blade for our new 150-
I understand the Solo prop is the way to go. Just 'what size?'
We're going to do our initial run up with a 28-12 CF 3 blade I had lying around.
Don

speedbird390

that sounds good,
and yes it was freeezing cold standing outside
but its good for running Moki

Im building a Krill 37% Yak55M with some custom paintwork for it [8D]
I hope to get it ready to fly early next spring as I intend to fly IMAC with it next season...

/Perra

Scott Prossen

I think that will be a god one to try. I look forward to hearing how it works for you. Another one I'd like to find is a 26 X 14 X 3blade. I've always been told to step down a pitch when switching to 3 blades from two and keeping the same diameter. I will see if I can find one of those for a trial. I will let you know how it goes.

If anyone else has some practical experience with the 150cc and three blade props please chime in and give us your advice!

Happy Holidays,
Scott