goodinmw

Aloha John,

Haven't actually taken mine apart yet- but there should be a seat inside the crankcase bore for the intake tubes, the crush washer goes in first against the seat and then the intake tube. As the intake tube is tightened at the cylinder head, the tube is drawn in against it and crushes the (crush washer) sealing the end of the intake tube to the crankcase. That's the concept anyway.
If you did not recall seeing them on dissassembly, my bet is they are still inside the crankcase bore and need to be removed.

Mark

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Got the first two runs on the motor today and things went well. Temp was 96F with a humidity of 54%. I am running 91 octane ethanol free gasoline mixed 45:1, Castrol RS TTS T2 oil and Metalon C2 friction additive. A 32 x 18 Biela prop is installed and I was getting 4,400 PRM at full throttle and 850-900 PRM at idle. Transition was great after coming up to temperature and no really problems were noted. temperature for the #1 cylinder was getting up to 260F and all others were in the 190 to 230F range checked with a Raytek temperature gun aimed at the exhaust outlet in the cylinder head. I checked the #1 plug at it did not look lean, actually looked slightly rich. I am going to buy the Eagle Tree Telemetry system in the near future, so I can get more accurate data. Were are you guys measuring the temps during runs? I hope you guys don't mind a video, but here is my son doing his best to record the run. Please pay no attention to the fat man in the black shirt and getting interrupted by the neighbor half way through the run. Any advise or inputs are welcome. Thanks and take care.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-0szwqLnBU[/youtube]

goodinmw

Aloha All,
Got a line on Moki 150 Intake tubes-
www.teamaerscale.com Gotz Vogelsang [email protected]
Has my 150 tubes in stock.
A bit pricey, $65 per tube and they only come in sets of 5 (5 x $65)
Guess I'll be able to do lots of experimenting!
Or if I figure this out on the first tube, I'll have several to share.
Will keep you posted.
Aloha,
Mark

goodinmw

Sorry Guys,
The correct link is http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/
Mark

wd40

My Feedback: (81)

I am looking for a Moki 150 if you have one for sale let me know 615-556-2477

mogman

A little "Moki Music". Just finished the maiden on the plane, 40% Waco, Moki 400, 76lbs.....comin' to Monster Planes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFl7F1NE5io

TSHARK203

My Feedback: (206)

What weight oil are you guys using the RS T2 motor oil, the 10/40 or the 20/50.
Thanks
George

Scott Prossen

WHAT???? What are you talking about George?

Scott

TSHARK203

My Feedback: (206)

The RS 2T motor oil comes in two different weights. I was just trying to find out which one everyone is using.

Scott Prossen

Use a synthetic at 50:1.
I use Amsoil Saber or Dominator at 50:1. Run it in them right out of the box.

Scott.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Oil recommended by Vogelsang at 50/1.
Another good one I hear is Stlih Ultra Synthetic.

Jaketab

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I have three flights on the airframe and the motor is a great performer. Total time on the motor since I got it from Vogelsang Aeroscale is 1.2 hours. Pulled the plugs today to inspect the condition and this is what I have. #3 and #4 are running the coolest as indicated on the temp gauge and the spark plugs. #1,2, & 5 are within 10 degrees F of each other (190-180F) after landing and #3 & #4 are 50-80 degrees (110-120F) cooler. I posted earlier with no reply and hope that you guys might find some interest and input to the condition of the spark plugs and the previous video. I do have all three flight videos to post if you guys would like to see them. As before, any inputs are appreciated. Thanks.

Jason

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

You bet, please post the videos, and thanks for the info.

germrb

My Feedback: (3)

Nice data! I have one question: What are you needle valve settings?

Thanks,

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Here are the first two videos of the flights on Saturday. My son is filming and loves to joke around. Great flying airplane and I can't wait to get the motor dialed in. I set my RPM on the ground to 4150-4200. Total weight of the airplane is 44 lbs dry. Third movie will be up today, it failed upload last night and I need to re-upload it. Take care and any thing you see that would help operate the motor better please advise.

Jason

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4BzwM76Qq8[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJa7dhSyYqA&feature=related[/youtube]

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Turbulator time! Will even that engine right up and the plugs will all be the same. -Tom

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Bob,

Right now my needle setting are 1.7 H and 1.2 L. I have leaned them out about a blade width each. I am going to get the Eagle Tree System or another that will allow me to monitor all five cylinder, but at a minimum, like you, I want to monitor the hottest and coldest. It has been really interesting to see all the data you collect with the Eagle Tree. It seems over the last two flights that #5 is turning out to be my hottest cylinder. Thanks and take care.

Jason

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Tom,

I am thinking the same.

Jason

mick15

Hi Scott, long time no see, how are you?

Just a little update on what I've been up to...enjoy.

regards Mick.

http://youtu.be/xvRDltmAERA

Jetjockgb

My Feedback: (4)

Hi Mick,
Wow love your new LA she sure looks the bizzz,she rips through the air!!!!
Do you fancy bringing her along to the Victory show!!! http://www.thevictoryshow.co.uk/Airc...S/Default.aspx

Mick, Scott is out on tour with the Cat,he has been picking up a few trophy's in between doing interviews on the TV!!!!
http://www.fox11online.com/dpp/good_...21&status=true


Cheers Graham B

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Here is the video from Sunday, before I pulled the spark plugs for inspection. Take care.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2asFgebTxNc[/youtube]

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I thought I remember reading in the thread that some of the guys ignition connection had come loose so....I have been thinking about a way to positively lock the ignition connection in place and during my morning run this is what I came up with. I wanted to use the existing ignition structure and be simple. Its main function is to keep the locking tabs engaged and not come loose due to vibration. A secondary benefit is that is puts "finger pressure", best way i can describe it, on the top of the ignition connection. Couple of pictures. Take it easy.

Jason

mogman

Jason, it's the large screw together connector(the big one on the left side of your second photo) that has loosened up for some people. Just wrap some tape around it to secure it. I also use some servo grommets on the 3 screws on the ignition box to help isolate the vibrations.

Cheers,
Dave.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Thanks Dave, guess I got that wrong.[sm=red_smile.gif] I should have confirmed before I posted it. Well it was fun to think up and design so no loss I guess. I used a 1" rubber lined clamp for the screw together ignition junction and that has seemed to hold the connection tight. I used cork on the bottom of ignition mount to help isolate the vibration. but some rubber grommets would help also. Here are some pictures of the ignition mount before it was glued and painted. Sorry about that. See ya guys.

Jason

mogman

That mount looks like it should work well.

Cheers,
Dave.