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MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

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Old 01-11-2012, 12:25 PM
  #1801
Growler84
 
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

This is how my friend Phil baffled his CARF Corsair. He painted the baffles flat black and you can hardly see them. Through the Spektrum telemetry system we've seen a 40-50 degree drop in cylinder head temperature. Keep an eye on Gary's CARF Corsair build thread, he will post the template for the baffle soon.

I like your dummy cylinder head idea. I think anything that blocks off the airflow between the cylinders will work. Finding out to what extent it works will of course require testing.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:34 PM
  #1802
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

just injoy this Beautiful
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGF7R...9&feature=plcp
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Old 01-12-2012, 06:31 AM
  #1803
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Wow! he was lucky, he lost both flying wires on the left side and one flying and one landing wire on the other, that shows you the stress these engines put on the aircraft.
It was a great film of a moki idling, great camera work.
Also, don't complain about your flying field, that one looked like a postage stamp, a hedge on one side and a bunch of trees on the other.
That would definitely keep you on the runway.
Thanks growler84 for the info on the baffles......Ron
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:52 AM
  #1804
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

hi ther
the wirer was lost not becase the engine, but becase the wires did not Secured
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:47 PM
  #1805
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Great flight...we soldering in the new 150 Moki coil as we speak....hopefully we get to kiss the sky in a few days weather permitting....I'll post a couple pics....
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:16 PM
  #1806
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Here's one that open for discussion....the new coil is just slightly different from the original, although it minor... as you can see in the photo the shielded wrap is for sure soldered to the "ring" you see all other coils connected to....the new coil as you see has the factory shrink wrap ready for install at the coil end....apparently some ignitions are not soldered/grounded in this manner or it has been changed...would you put it back as original before removing for replacement...or...remove the factory installed heat shrink on the new replacement coil and solder back the wire shield as it was originally to the "grd ring"....and as stated by a few here...there is a cute snug fitting resistor embedded in the plug cap...I'll get a few shots of it for those that may want to see it in it's position in the cap for reference...after looking at it's position and snug fit, it may be the culprit of misdiagnoses/coil replacement in certain mis-fire situations if shorted or open...hence leading one to think the coil is bad/shorted...I bet money it is available from most any Radio Shack for replacement if ness...it looked common....I'm gonna do some ohm test before install to compare new with old also....it may help diagnose future problems for some or keep one from waiting months for a replacement cap maybe if it's defective or damaged...a new one was in the replacement cap/coil assembly sent by Mr Kunkel...just a thought for some maybe...if your plug cap is dented or damaged from a mishap any at all....slightly dented maybe...the resistor could easily be damaged because of it's tight snug fit in the cap...pliers...twisting excessively for removal...etc...could easily damage it....it's just not a normal everyday type graphite wire as we most know that's tough as a tie-wrap...be easy here with removal/replacement, and it will last a lifetime...just my 2 cent...the first photo is before removal...the #3 CDI ignition module gray wire was soldered to coil Blue..the coil Red wire connects to the plug wire RF shield wrap and the "grd ring" returning the circuit to ignition Battery Neg...the other shows the coil difference in reference to my question.....I feel we gonna get all 5 this time....would you re-solder the "grd ring" to the new replacement plug wire RF shield wrap as I found the original?.....my feeling is to remove the factory installed shrink wrap and solder it back...anyone?....Bill
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Old 01-14-2012, 06:42 AM
  #1807
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

"grd" means ground ring. The shielding must be grounded to sink the RFI (radiated noise) from the electrical impulses. This will prevent interference to your radio. So yes move the heat shrink to the position to protect the shielding from the engine rear housing and solder. -Tom
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:24 AM
  #1808
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Maybe the coil being "newer" than the older pre-2009 original one explains why the shield is no longer grounded maybe...would the newer 2.4ghz radio's not be bothered by RF?...I still think that it should be re-soldered as found...Thanks Maxam for the input...we thinking on the same page....I'll get up the pics on the resistor in the cap in a bit....Bill
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:21 PM
  #1809
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Here's a pic of the cap end of the Moki 150 sparkplug boot disassembled.....the 2nd pic is the new replacement resting in it's new home...the coil had a slight egg shape that required a slight bit of trim work to fit correctly in the rear of the intake housing...other than that she was right at home....Bill
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:00 PM
  #1810
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Here is a link for replacement plug ends for the CM-6 plug.


http://www.prcmodel.com/modeng/name/...od/product/134
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:05 PM
  #1811
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

These can come in handy too if you ever have damage between the coil and a plug end cap. It beats the replacement process of the single coil assembly.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...s.asp?mode=nml
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:01 AM
  #1812
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Announcing a new product from Tru-Turn for the Moki's! I was at Toledo and I was talking to Bob at Tru-Turn about prop adapters for the radials. As many of you are aware, the shaft is threaded and Tru-Turn makes an adapter. The threads however are tiny and delicate. I made a drawing called the Moki Hat of a safer more durable adapter. Well 8 months later I got an E-mail telling me they now make the "Moki Top Hat". So my little idea is now available. -Tom
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Old 02-02-2012, 09:36 AM
  #1813
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Would anyone have a link to the aps power fuel 380hv instructions/manual ?

thanks !

~V~
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:27 AM
  #1814
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Here ya go.
PDF of the Power Fuel pump manual.
Vern

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Old 02-02-2012, 10:43 AM
  #1815
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Cool, thanks !

so with the pump running, how does the crab not get flooded out unless its completely closed since its running the moment ignition is turned on ( if set per the same switch/power source )

~V~
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:13 AM
  #1816
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Becuuse there is a needle valve that closes when the fuel bladder in the carb is full. If you see fuel coming out the carb, then that valve is not fully closing.

Dave N
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:13 AM
  #1817
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: wojtek

Cool, thanks !

so with the pump running, how does the crab not get flooded out unless its completely closed since its running the moment ignition is turned on ( if set per the same switch/power source )

~V~

If I understand the pump correctly. It pumps just under the PSI needed to activate the Carb. pump diaphragm. And return the excess fuel to the tank even when the engine is not running. It will not cause the Carb. to flood the engine.
Seems to work great.


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Old 02-08-2012, 01:45 PM
  #1818
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Scott Prossen

I check all the plugs making sure to clean, gap and replace them just snug not "gorilla" tight. I stripped the threads on a cylinder one time and it was an expensive lesson to learn. I have to remind myself that these are steel plugs going into Aluminum heads.
This is my first post here, because this great forum does not have a section for n00bs to introduce themselves. Iplayed around with control line planes as a teenager, in the Cox .049 days. Now that Iam semi-retired I am looking to get back into scale modeling, specifically R/C planes.

Things have sure changed in the past 35 years or so!

Although Ido not have any experience with current model aircraft engines, Ihave over 30 years of experience as a professional mechanic. Iam ASEcertified Auto and Truck Master, and hold a Mobile Hydraulic certification.

Iapologize if this has been addressed already in this thread, but Iam too lazy to read through seventy some pages of posts.

So please allow me to make a suggestion for the spark plugs. Always use anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. This will prevent galling, and help removing and reinstalling the plugs.

Also, never remove a plug when the engine is hot. You may just pull the threads out of the head.

This info from mick15 is excellent too. Iwonder if using "corn head grease" used in farm machinery might work in the cam gear drive? It has the properties of grease, but flows like gear lube, and would be less likely to work its way out of the gearbox.

Quote:
ORIGINAL: mick15

I have been running three 215s for four years now and have gained some experience which may benefit some of you guys.

Firstly the factory have modified the cam gears from brass to steel on early engines because the brass ones wear quickly, you can feel the wear at the propeller tip, the lash should be no more than 25mm. Personally I think this wear comes from using grease in the gear housing rendering the lubrication very hit and miss apart from the problems caused to the pulse generator (mistakenly called a pump). Since I replaced the gears in two of my engines I have run 80 grade gear oil in the housing with no more problems.

To top up the housing I remove any one of the lower cylinders cam follower and fill from the pulse generator until oil runs from the follower hole.

A small tip for adjusting valve clearances, rotate the engine until one valve is fully open, and then rotate 360 degrees. Undo the locking nut and gently tighten the screw until it touches the valve, you should feel the pushrod just nip. Back off the screw ONE flat and tighten the nut.


m
Ihave been looking at these radial engines, and Itoo am surprised at how little information is available to the end user who possesses the skills and determination to perform maintenance and repairs on their own. These engines are certainly well made, and if a person should wish to get the most out of the investment, when it is time for an overhaul, why shouldn't the job be within reach of the modeler?


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Old 02-08-2012, 06:52 PM
  #1819
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

To Whom It May Concern:

Anyone out there interested in a Moki 150 below retail? New in the box. Never been run. Never been removed from the backboard.

Thought I'd give you guys a shot before going public. Send me a PM if you're interested.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:52 PM
  #1820
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: germrb

To Whom It May Concern:

Anyone out there interested in a Moki 150 below retail? New in the box. Never been run. Never been removed from the backboard.

Thought I'd give you guys a shot before going public. Send me a PM if you're interested.
Iwould be delighted to take a shot at one, but my budget is running a bit shy. Ihad to take a few months off from work to have a hip replacement, and haven't had any income since December 5 last year.

If I went out and started spending money right now Ithink my partner would give me reason to have the other hip replaced! And we all know how important it is to have a happy woman at the home front, right?

Thanks for the opportunity though!



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Old 02-09-2012, 05:57 AM
  #1821
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Hello Tom, (Maxam)

Some time ago I ordered the straight 4mm to 5mm spinner adapter from Tru-Turn. Seems to work fine, but first had to extend the 4mm threads inside the shaft so the adapter would seat to the shoulder. If the Top Hat would have been available, I probabally would have purchased it.

Do you know any case where the threads in the straight prop adapter have been failing and whether or not it would be advisable to purchase the Top Hat.

It might appear that centering the Top Hat is dependant upon drilling the prop bolt holes "dead on" through the prop. Sometimes drill bits wander.

Thanks - Jaketab
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:32 AM
  #1822
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

On www.heilemann-sternmotoren.de , you find also interestings things for the Moki

fg

koen
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:50 AM
  #1823
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Guys,

Just thought I would post here real quick before I put it in the classifieds. I sold the Moki 250 and I still have the APS 380 fuel pump (older style not the HV) and moki 14" flexible exhausts. They are in excellent condition. If you guys might be interested in them send me a PM. $125.00 for the pump and $75.00 for the exhaust. Take care.

Jason
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:42 AM
  #1824
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Jaketab, First I am sorry I did not respond sooner. I just now saw your post and I am subscribed!?!! Yes drill bits can drive me nuts too. Place a 10 mm rod or drill bit through the hole of the prop and the Hat to hold it centered. That hopfully should work. The failing part is between the threads and the shoulder of the adapter. Rather tiny! Also the Hat is threaded 8/32 american like most spinner adapters. -Tom
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Old 02-17-2012, 09:10 AM
  #1825
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Default RE: MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

Guys,

Thanks for the interest in the Pump and Exhaust! The APS 380 Fuel Pump is sold, the exhaust is still available for the time, I have one interested party in those. Thanks again. Take care.

Jason
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