nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Recently my 215 dies at over 1/2 throttle. It seems to be starving for fuel at a high setting. I've checked for a clogged screen (even replaced the carb) but no joy. The only anomoly I can find is the o ring around the intake tube in the rear crankcase was deformed and possibly allowing air to get by. The idle and transition seems fine except when going past the 1/2 open position. Haven't had a chance replace the o ring but am wondering if that sounds like the problem. Mitch

Scotsman

Mitch,

Could it be fuel line or a tank problem? Or are you setting it up on a new airframe with new tank, etc. Ignition able to keep up with the higher RPM? I'm sure it is baffling as you probably have moved over a working configuration to a new airframe.

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Nope...not gas line or tank problem. Was working normally then this??????? Mitch

Jim Cattanach

Are you using an electric fuel pump? If not, then perhaps the pulse generator that aids fuel delivery to the carb is not working properly. I had many problems with mine, so I fitted the electric fuel pump & the engine now runs perfectly.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (2)

Have my First Moki 250 Going in a Comp ARF Corsair and have to say the fuel pump is a Big Question as to if it is a must do or can the motor be run without the Electric fuel pump, ????

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

Read the post above yours

Jim Cattanach

With the huge amount you have invested in your project, I would not advise taking the risk of flying without fitting the recommended electric fuel pump. The pulse generator fitted to the Moki radial, in many cases, is not reliable & could cost you dearly.

heinzulrich

Fellas , I was just sreading all your questions and replies and most certainly found them very interesting and certainly very helpfull in many cases. And then I had this brain fart, Has any one ever thought about putting on a self starter on these radials????
Heinz

heinzulrich

Fellas , I was just sreading all your questions and replies and most certainly found them very interesting and certainly very helpfull in many cases. And then I had this brain fart, Has any one ever thought about putting on a self starter on these radials????
Heinz

wingstrut

Heinz, I'm sure someone is working on that, I'm wondering if the Helicopter boys have come up with a use for one yet.?..............Ron

heinzulrich

Wasn't there a Helicopter that had a radial engine? Full size???

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The pump is very inexpensive insurance compared to your investment. Plus, it will start easier, and average about 300 more RPM, with a more reliable and lower idle with the pump. I see no good reason not to use it, other than to save money, and again, I would not risk my CARF Corsair to that factory, rather small, pump.

Also, I mount the pump UNDER the front of the tank. It primes in a split second, and always works flawlessly.

I'd like to show you pictures, but alas, RCU is not cooperating again.

jairaksinen

I have mentioned this earlier. My opinnion is that you shoud not change somtehing that is working properly. For me it is a question of propability, Electric pump can have break two ways as the pump fitted can only have blocked tube. Two of my Moki engines work flowlesly in more expensive corsairs that CARF. And a third one is being build, without an electric pump. For the second one I installed the TBM velocity stack and it seems to give a bit more High RPM, but then again it is not necessary. There ha been some comments on not getting the engine too rich setttings. I've never tried to get it too rich, just so that it works and thats how I think the engine should be adjusted.

Moreover, when I start the engine cold for the forst time it takes some 5 flips it pops and then about the same for it to start. For me the engine works just perfect as it was designed. So I would never byu something so expensive that, to my experience, does nothing but increase propability of malfunction.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Opinions vary. The factory Moki pump is marginal at best.

To say the pump can cause problems makes no sense to me. The needle settings are cut back a bit with it. The engine has a constant and steady flow of fuel that does not waver or vary. This regardless of where the tank is.

I don't believe the Turbulator is necessary, but the electric pump is another story. I base this on personal experience, and the experience of almost every Moki owner I have met at events like Monster Planes and Top Gun.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

I have had the 150 and 215. Both where dramatically improved with the turbulator. Have you tried it? All aspects of operation where improved including even running of all cylinders, vibration, far lower temp and throttle transition. So many people say "do not run the engine on the ground for long periods or it will overheat" ....not true with the turbulator. I could run it all day long at high throttle and cylinder temps would all be around 180 F on an 80 degree day. The exhaust collector ring stayed looking brand new. Yes I agree the fuel pump is a requirement. -Tom

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I have not tried it Tom. With baffles, though, I don't have the overheating. Do you run baffles? The transition is also crisp with a cooler running engine. Perhaps a well baffled engine runs similar to one with the tubulator.

wingstrut

Heinz, I believe most of the old Sikorsky units used radials like the H-19 and UH-34D's , I just thought someone out there might be thinking of a radial for a heli, that would be a neat helicopter............Ron

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

I think a few of our WW2 tanks used radials as well, one tank destroyer was open topped ith a radial pulling air through the open cockpit fom the rear, the crew froze in the winter...

wingstrut

Whit, you are correct, isn't it great all the neat things radials can be used for.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

It would be neat to take a Moki 150 and build a Hellcat tank destroyer around it!

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

I've had a fuel pump on it for 2 seasons. The throttling problem just recently showed up. I can get very good high rpm it's just that the throttle plate can't go beyond about 1/2 before the engine starts to quit????? I'm baffled. Mitch

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Mitch,

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Yes it was in the Stearman. Fortunately there was no prop or engine strike. I ran it after the mishap and it performed fine except for the throttle plate issue. Mitch

jairaksinen

Well it's either starving for fuel or getting too much air. My borther had similar issues and the problem was with the "fuel dot filler" it was leaking air into the engine. Moreover, I was once running my Moki 250 on test bench and it also seemed to not get enough fuel. I found the problem to be the tank. Ihad bolted it down too hard this time and it was shaking just a bit too hard giving air into the fuel line. And it was not much but enough. Our club has had a few of the similar type issues all of them solved by stopping the air going into the fuel line.

So I'd bet my money on too much air. I suppose it could also be possible that there could be a stuck intake valve so it would press the air from the cylinder back to the crack case causing the airflow from the carb to stop for a short time.

Hope you'll get it fixed.

stivvy

Help please guys.

I bought a used Moki 215 and have been busy bench mounting it for testing.

It came with the APS electric pump, 34x18 prop and SM Services kill switch so I have rigged it up to suit.

Started it up today - 1st flick and she was away !!
Sounds like it isnt firing on one of the cylinders and No3 runs very cool.
Disconnected the No3 HT lead whist running and it didnt seem to change the engine note at all - so I am GUESSING No3 may be out.

I am sure that this will have been covered somewhere in this thread, but what is the process of elimination ?

I am guessing it will be check plug for spark first - if no spark check HT lead/plug cap then coil ??

Could there be other common issues with No3 ignition problems ?

Thanks, Steve