Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

That is sooo funny. How about a bicycle! If that prop came off that guy would be in a heap of trouble!

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Use,

Thanks for the reply. What do you recommend I use to reseal? I see one "O" ring, is there also a gasket or is RTV or similar sealer used? I think your ignition came with some small rubber parts that are used to plug the old spark lead holes?

Jaketab,

As soon as I get my F4u in the air I will let you know!

Whit

regenbieger

Hi Whit,

in addition to the O-ring you should use some kind of "liquid" sealing which you should put around the O-ring. This must be, of course, heat resistant.

The small rubber parts are OK, if the ignitiuon cables comes out of the housing without a shrink sleeve around. With shrink sleeve around the rubbers are too small Possibly you will find some other plastic or rubber plug in your neighbourhood.
This part is not the critical one. If the sealing around the O-ring ist fine the rest is just cosmetic. The rebuildings I made here in Germany left with open cable inlet my test stand.

Best regards

Uwe

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Uwe,

mogman

Hi Uwe,

As previously posted in this thread, is there any reason the new ignition would not work on the other Mokis...the.400 for example?

Cheers,
Dave.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Uwe,

regenbieger

Hi Dave and all the others,

basically I doesn't want to discuss this issue here in the forum because it will create a lot of different opinions and will end up in an endless discussion which will destroy this polite and obliging thread. This is not helpful for neither you nor me. Nevertheless let me spend some words in this matter because I am asked frequendly this or similar questions;

The big blocks (215+) looks identical but they aren't. Not sure for the 400 because I never had one in my hands.
The difference is the sensor and the principle of switching Moki realizes it. This is not "nice" (just to use polite words) and I never will go the same way because it is not save to synchronize the engine and ignition system, which is essential for a save run. Me as a component supplier can only burn my fingers in this matter. And this is what I do not want.

The retrofits I already made are more critical and expensive. The engine needs to dismantled (at least the front part where the sensor is located) and a new ring with magnets will be installed as well as a new sensor. That's the same way I did with several other 3-, 5- and 7- cylinder radial engines. These work fine and it is a 100% save solution.
That's my way of thinking and working.

Hope this makes it understandable for you why I do not offer an 80% solution.

I'm still thinking about an easy solution for the big blocks but up to now no result.


Best regards

Uwe

mogman

Thanks Uwe.

Cheers,
Dave.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Uwe,

heinzulrich

Thanks for your reply. I do understand.
Heinz

regenbieger

Hi Whit,

this is not uncomfortable. I can understand you guys and the questions are more than legal. But when I would write more than this I would open a very big box and this will not help anybody.

Salut

Uwe

wingstrut

That is a neat idea, on a bicycle you could turn the engine around and use a pusher prop.
I bet you could haul butt down the road on that, YAHOOOOOO!

Sorry, that's the kid coming out in me.

Waco Brother #216

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Have any of you been to Oshkosh Air Venture? Well this year the radial engine is featured! I have posted this on the other three radial sites within RCU. Even if you do not own a full size plane you would really enjoy this event. I have been three times before and going and seeing all those beautiful planes is motivating to get you building! There are dorm rooms at the local university that are very affordable. Check out the EAA website. -Tom

heraldoboldrin

i am thinking in use a 32x16 in the moki 7 cilinder 250 for break in, than go to 32x18, 19 or 20 Wood prop.
And oil, thinking in 2,5% for break in than go to 2%
what do you think?

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

I was asked about the new ignition over on RCSB, and instead of posting a link here to it which might be a internet faux pau, here it is again:


This is the "new" Rainbow Tronics ignition:

From the left above, the three cell A123 from NoBS batteries, then the ignition module that directly replaces the "Top Hat" of the stock ignition, a 6 inch ruler and then finally the replacement for the stock engines internals a box with the coils and the 5 spark plug leads. This has the side benefit of removing the colis from the heat and cooling and heating cycles of being inside the motor mount in the stock engine.

Here are close up shots of each box:

and the coils box:

Below is a "stock" engine pic with the spark leads exiting the motor mount in front of the carb, you can just see the clear festo tubing coming from the "pump" actually a pressure pulse generator on the front of the crankcase:

And here's the modified version, done by Vogelsang Areoscale, just the little orange plug to show where the old spark leads were:

Whit

reyn3545

Moki newbie here... I should get my 150 tomorrow.

My question is about lubricating the rockers and valve pushrods... what's the best way to accomplish this with a cowled airplane?

brazan

My Feedback: (2)

Reyn3545
I just use the straw that comes with the Dupont spray that Vogelsang recomends.
As a side note what are you planing to put the 150 in?
I just took mine out of a hanger 9 Beast and am trying to stuff it into a 33% Suhkoi.
Saw you sold your compy 330sc I realy love mine.

reyn3545

I'm putting the 150 in a Pilot 35% Yak... it had more wing area than the others in its class, and I thought that might help it stay airborne when I cut the throttle. We'll see.

I really enjoyed the 330SC, but with the crowds at our field, I just never got it out and flew it... and I was concerned about the DA200 and all the problems people are experiencing.

reyn3545

What is the Dupont spray that Vogelsang recommends?

wingstrut

It's the Dupont Teflon Silicone spray, I got mine at ACE hardware.
If you go to Voglesangs website and click on the moki emblem you will see a picture of the can.

Waco Brother # 216

reyn3545

got it.. thanks!

brazan

My Feedback: (2)

This stuff ( Dupont Teflon silicone lubricant )

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

When will rainbow release the ignition for the 250?

regenbieger

Manfred,

please read post #2357.

Cheers

Uwe

reyn3545

Moki Newbie tuning question... I have a 150, got it started for the first time today. It took forever to get it running, thank God I didn't sell my reduction gear starter a few years ago!

Anyway, once it started running, I kept the RPM's pretty low, but it wasn't running quite as smooth as the videos I've seen. I checked the temps... most cylinders were running around 200 degrees, but the bottom cylinder (7 o'clock looking from the front) was only running about 100 degrees at teh exhaust port.

It must be crazy rich, based on the black wet exhaust.

What are the "beginning" settings on the carb? It looks like a Walbro, so I set both the high and low at 1 1/2 turns. I haven't ran the motor up much to see how it throttles up and down, so I didn't want to do any twisting on the needles until I got some advise.

Also.. would you recommend one of the turbinators? I've read about them, but haven't heard any first hand reports.