reyn3545

I don't need to know these things!

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Hello Guys,

just an FYI ...for the Moki 150-180 we have made the MOKI 150-180 CH CDI ignition for this engines only!.
We have to test run it for 2-3 months ( flying).

The unit works from 6-6.6-7.2-7.4-11.2-12v . I will recommend the 7.4 Battery with a minim 2400mA.
The Unit draws around 1A avarage.
After the endurance testing will make it available.
CH CDI and Sensor holder that will be replacing the regular OEM will be around $399.
Units will be available on CH site for pre-order and lead time 2-3 weeks...maybe sooner.
if presents a lot of interest then will try to have stock.
We will look for a 215 or 250 engine to try and make a CDI available for those also.



http://youtu.be/sNTNL1z8yVo
Thank you
Adrian

reyn3545

Great news... thanks for sharing!

reyn3545

Just a quick note for anyone considering one of these CARF adjustable pitch props... they are NOT Solo propellers and hubs!

I bought one from Vogelsang and got it in this past Friday. I was very surprised when I pulled the spinner off and didn't find the pitch adjustment dial. Tearing it apart fully, I see that the blades are very much like Solo's (probably the same blades), and the hub is identical, but there is no dial adjustment in the center. This is set up for a manual adjustment (they provide you with a wedge of plywood that is supposed to be a good blade pitch for the CARF Corsair), and you use the center bolt and bolts around the hub halves to clamp down on the blades to keep them set in place. I may reach out to Solo and see if the adjustment piece is interchangeable, and I'll let you know.

The prop seems to work fine, and you can set the blades pretty close to identical using the manual method, but I would have liked to have the dial that sets all 3 blades at once.

There are some instructions written in German. I can't read them, but this appears to be a "SL-Propeller" Not a Solo Propeller.

Here's a copy of the document, if anyone can translate it for me.

jairaksinen

Well I have had both, Solo Prop and now the CARF version. They are identical, and it has the dial in the center, just like solo prop has. Perhaps they just forgot it from yours.

snauwaertj

Does anyone have a template for a baffeling for a 400? A friend of me has a cnc milling machine and could make one for me if he had a drawing of it.

regards Johan

reyn3545

Very interesting... thanks for sharing.

Scott Prossen

Quite possibly Vogelsang has them. I know he has them for the other Moki's and we all know that Dr.V is the bomb to work with. Great prices and quick turn-a-round if he has it you will also in a very short period of time.

If he doesn't have one the process is very simple to get a pattern. Place the end spinner upright perpendicular to the floor onto some cardboard, in a somewhat dimmed room shine a bright light straight down on the engine and trace the shadow line. Check you tracing with dimensions off the engine to assure yourself you got it right. It's pretty easy...........done it several times with many things to get tracings. KISS is my rule.

All the best,
Scott

reyn3545

Why didn't I think of that?

snauwaertj

Great idea, thank you

reyn3545

BTW.. back to the SL-Propeller issue... I did ask the new owner of Solo Props if there was any commonality between the components in the Solo and the SL-Propeller. Understandably, he noted that he could only speak for Solo props, and that he wouldn't recommend mixing components from different manufacturers in something like a propeller hub that spins at 5000 RPM... sounds reasonable. He also added that some people have tried to swap blades between the two and found that there is a diameter miss-match.

So... maybe the hub components are interchangeable, maybe they aren't... I'll keep the prop I have until the Solo is ready for shipment, then I may keep the SL for a backup, or I may sell it. It seems to work fine, and once you find your sweet spot for pitch, there's no reason to ever change it... so either should work just fine.

kimhey

Hi guys, I need some input regarding my 150. It is a post -09 and has about 2 hours running time. Original ignition and no fuel pump. I am the second owner, and have now five flights with this lovely little motor (baffled) in my La-7. My Futaba has telemetry, and I have connected two temp sensors, one at #1(hottest?) and one at the famous #3 (coldest/sometimes not running..) At idle, I get around 80-85 Celisius on #1 and 40-45 on #3. At full 95-100 on #1, 85-90 on #3.

In the air, they both seem to settle around 70-75 Celsius (a little cold?). At least when I take a brief look while flying...I know, I know bad thing to do;(

My problem is idle and around half throttle. Getting a constant reliable idle (700-800 rpm) has been impossible. The best a have got, is 1+minute before it stops. At half throttle, the engine cycles noticably, on the ground and in the air. I have tried to my best adjusting H and L, but I guess I have limited knowledge/experience ;(

Last 3 tanks has been running on Stihl Motomix (2%), without that black gunk, and shiny piston heads). Earlier I ran 95 octan pump gas, with mobil syntetic (mixed to 2%), with a lot of gunk and build up on the pistons).

Ignition: 2s2100mAh LiFe with regulator (5.5V)

Is this a "classical" Get-a-fuel-pump-case?


Happy for any input,

kind regards
Kim

reyn3545

I had similar issues, and Gotz (God of all that is Moki), suggested the RainbowTronics ignition system. I had already tried the fuel pump with little noticable improvement. I think there was an earlier post on this thread also about CH Ignitions offering a replacement ignition module for the 150, but it might not be available yet. The original modules on these older motors are crude at best, with individual coils nested inside the rear housing on the motor. When I replaced my ignition and noticed the birds nest of wiring, bare wires, etc.. that was used, it was no surprise that my motor wasn't running smoothly. When I replaced the ignition, it immediately ran smoother, better idle and more responsive throttle.

rk212

+1 RainbowTronics system

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

+1 for the Rainbow Tronics ignition and fuel pump combo. Also, I am now using the Redline high temp motor oil with an oz of the Seafoam treatment per gallon as well. Lastly I don't like the 26 x 16 prop, I am flying both of my engines with the 28 x 14 prop and love it only getting 4600 RPMs right now in a cowled in situation but cooling is adequate and all cylinders stay running. The 28 x 14 may not be fast enough for a heavy metal warbird though, I intend to try with my Meister F4u but that's in the future. With the 28 x 14 your idle is fantastic. You might also call and pick Gotz brain on setting the needles.

Whit

Der Goetz

My Feedback: (9)

Hello Kim
!!

The bad news out of the gate: you have an airleak.

Try removing the carburetor, gaskets and thermal block. Now CLEAN and then apply gasket making silicone, you can get it at your automotive shop. Use very little, you do not want anything to get into the carb. When reinstalling the mounting bolts for the carburetor add Loctite. The softest you can find, you only want to make sure that you are sealing, not locking.

See if the motor still surges or cycles in RPM. IF it does contact me and we will try something else.

Hope all is well
Gotz

kimhey

Ok Dr.Götz,

Here is what I discovered when I carefully removed the carburettor (I wanted to lift it off gently, in order to maybe reveal a poor gasket/seal). I am a beginner+ when it comes to gas engines, but what I discovered tells me that the gasket was not proberly sealed. In pic #2, you can see that the bolt were uneven lenghts as well(?), so I went and bought new bolts. It looks like the shortest one is definately cut, why I don´t know (I am the 2nd owner).


So I looks like you were spot on Dr. Götz! I will probably test the engine tomorrow, so then I will know whether it runs better or not.

(Oh...and that zip-tie in pic #2, is now replaced with locking wire )

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

KimHey : My first question is, are you running a fuel filter between the tank and the Carburetor?

If not i highly recommend it as i just went thru a similar issue with my Moki 250 but it was at full throttle that it would start to loose power after 3 or 4 circuits of the field.

What i found after i opened up the carb is that there was some small bits of plastic that had worked there way loose from the tank and got trapped in the screen inside the carb. It took 25 flights and a bad ignition to find this out.

flyn2high

My Feedback: (2)

In regards to having to use the wedge to adjust the pitch of the blades on the non-solo prop hub. I have a 3 blade 32" solo prop and tried to use the adjustable dial to set the pitch by first taking out the backlash. I made my own wedge to check the accuracy and consistency between each blade. They were way off using the dial. It takes a little while to set each blade up with the wedge but I feel that it is much more accurate way to go. Not only was the pitch setting incorrect using the dial but each blade was not the same pitch.

What I did to calculate the angle of the wedge is to choose a distance from the center then find the circumference of that circle. The angle is triged out using the length of the circumference for the adjacent side and the desired pitch as the opposite side of the angle.

Way back I used to fly heli's and if one blade was pitched just a little more then the other when view on end they were not in line. To see which one is forward you use a little colored tape on one. You can see which one is high and which is low. The reason I mention it is that on my engine all three blades are inline when running up. I don't recommend doing this as it is the most dangerous place to stand if something goes wrong.

Der Goetz

My Feedback: (9)

Keep in mind with the 8pitch (guessed) Solo blades. You are NOT warping the blade, hence creating correct 18pitch propellers, you are increasing the overall pitch of an almost flat blade as you do on a kitchen ceiling fan. There are videos on YouTube showcasing Moki failures because of this.

kimhey

Successful day at the field today. Used my hat-cam to try to document the engine and model. It is what it is with this recording method, and I have edited some of the "out of the frame" video, so you guys can listen to the engine and tell me if it runs ok. Personally I think it runs a bit on the rich side at full throttle? Fixing the air leak, as Dr. Götz suggested, made all the difference to me

Thank you doctor!


Here is the video link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUFc-r1eyxY


Kim

Scott Prossen

on the fly-bys when it is unloading it sounds pretty darn good/smooth to me. I did not hear any supersonic prop tip noise...........bad thing to hear.
I see far too many people running their Moki's with too little prop and way too much RPM. Just don't see and benefit from that decision.

Enjoy that La-7/Moki combo. Sounds like you and Der G have it going great now.

All the best,
Scott

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

I am with you Scott; The engine sounds correct. -Tom

kimhey

Thanks for you replies guys, I leave the settings as now then. Btw, the hottest sylinder #1 was 101C (213F), the coldest 82C (180F) just after landing. I understand that is within acceptable limits?


Kim

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Kim, That 33F degree range is not too bad, better than most. It is a keeper! -Tom