MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
12-08-2014, 06:03 PM
#3154
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Hello: I'm in process of removing the collector Ring from my Moki 250 -- going to convert it to direct exhaust. It looks like the back plate of the moki must come off in order to remove the intake ports such that you can remove the collector ring. So my question is: Is removing the back plate straight forward, or am I going to be surprised (in a bad way) once i get it off? Don't like surprises.
Thank you.
I was making it too hard. Done.
James
Thank you.
I was making it too hard. Done.
James
Last edited by JamesPool; 12-09-2014 at 05:36 PM.
12-12-2014, 07:00 AM
#3158
Thread Starter
NEWS FLASH!
I just got off the phone with Dr. Vogelsang and he assured me that they are still servicing the MOKI'S! He is such a supporter of the motor that he will service them even if you didn't purchase from him. That being said I would urge you to purchase from him since he not only is a service center but like you and I, he is also an avid flyer and RC enthusiast. Not an opportunist!
Now that should settle any incorrect rumors I hope. Happy Holidays to all !
Scott Prossen
I just got off the phone with Dr. Vogelsang and he assured me that they are still servicing the MOKI'S! He is such a supporter of the motor that he will service them even if you didn't purchase from him. That being said I would urge you to purchase from him since he not only is a service center but like you and I, he is also an avid flyer and RC enthusiast. Not an opportunist!
Now that should settle any incorrect rumors I hope. Happy Holidays to all !
Scott Prossen
12-20-2014, 01:01 PM
#3163
I just received my first Moki radial, a 300. However, I'm starting to find out there are some differences I wasn't prepared for. I'm looking for a 4 blade scale prop for a 3W Bearcat I'm working on. The prop shaft for the Moki 300 is 12mm up from 10mm I believe the 250 has. same prop bolt pattern as 250 but slightly larger plate diameter. I emailed solo and they don't have an option for the 300.. This was my first choice. I also don't see anything offered by Biela. Probably looking at a 32 x 18+. I'm talking to Gotz Vogelsang, and I know Seidel can make a custom prop & hub for the bearcat, but if anyone has thoughts on other options, I'd greatly appreciate it. Gotz sold me a 2-blade 34/20 for break-in.
12-21-2014, 10:55 AM
#3164
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Nærbø, NORWAY
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Sven Lange in sl propellers i germany have the alu hub for the moki 300 with 12mm axle! I just ordered a Three blade hamilton style for my moki 300! He make the blades in Carbon instead of wood for a stronger blade.
Geir
Geir
12-21-2014, 02:25 PM
#3166
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12-21-2014, 08:19 PM
#3167
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Hello im new to moki engines so i was trying to mount my moki 250 and i broke the throttle linkage off the carb and im freaking out are carbs availible or parts to fix this?
12-22-2014, 05:59 AM
#3168
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Mad Mech, Go to your KandS metal center at the hobby shop and fit the broken off piece into the best fit brass tube. Cut the brass tube about an inch long and solder or JB weld the carb rod and linkage together inside the brass tube. Make sure to position the linkage for the best actuation in throttling. -Tom
12-22-2014, 08:26 AM
#3169
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Thank you is this a problem that is a common repair for? Im just worried it would vibrate loose or something. But thanx for the advice im going after work to get that.
12-23-2014, 05:26 AM
#3171
Maxam, I need your help/advice.What should i be checking on a used 2007 Moki 150 to make sure (or at least have a hint) that it does not need major work?
Thanks Joe
Thanks Joe
12-27-2014, 01:33 AM
#3173
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: kuwaitkuwait, KUWAIT
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Hi there.
Ive vey recently built the airworld gee bee with the moki 250 in, the plane flies amazing. Apart from one reoccurring problem. The valves every now and then stick in the open position and throws the rod, not such a huge problem as they're sticking open not shut, but this time it snapped the rocker arm, which is an anomaly as the valve is suck open and the cam wouldn't force it past the breaking point unless it just caught the lip of the socket.
anyway, my question is, is this normal? I find it odd they give you a spare rod aswell like it's normal.
If it is normal what's the fix.
Im using am soil at the recommended ratio and a three bladed beilla also recommend, there's also plenty of cooling and the engine purrs and idles like a kitten.
Please help, as I will have to make a rod catcher in the engine bay.
Ive vey recently built the airworld gee bee with the moki 250 in, the plane flies amazing. Apart from one reoccurring problem. The valves every now and then stick in the open position and throws the rod, not such a huge problem as they're sticking open not shut, but this time it snapped the rocker arm, which is an anomaly as the valve is suck open and the cam wouldn't force it past the breaking point unless it just caught the lip of the socket.
anyway, my question is, is this normal? I find it odd they give you a spare rod aswell like it's normal.
If it is normal what's the fix.
Im using am soil at the recommended ratio and a three bladed beilla also recommend, there's also plenty of cooling and the engine purrs and idles like a kitten.
Please help, as I will have to make a rod catcher in the engine bay.
12-27-2014, 02:53 AM
#3174
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: JESSHEIM Ullensaker, NORWAY
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Hi there.
Ive vey recently built the airworld gee bee with the moki 250 in, the plane flies amazing. Apart from one reoccurring problem. The valves every now and then stick in the open position and throws the rod, not such a huge problem as they're sticking open not shut, but this time it snapped the rocker arm, which is an anomaly as the valve is suck open and the cam wouldn't force it past the breaking point unless it just caught the lip of the socket.
anyway, my question is, is this normal? I find it odd they give you a spare rod aswell like it's normal.
If it is normal what's the fix.
Im using am soil at the recommended ratio and a three bladed beilla also recommend, there's also plenty of cooling and the engine purrs and idles like a kitten.
Please help, as I will have to make a rod catcher in the engine bay.
Ive vey recently built the airworld gee bee with the moki 250 in, the plane flies amazing. Apart from one reoccurring problem. The valves every now and then stick in the open position and throws the rod, not such a huge problem as they're sticking open not shut, but this time it snapped the rocker arm, which is an anomaly as the valve is suck open and the cam wouldn't force it past the breaking point unless it just caught the lip of the socket.
anyway, my question is, is this normal? I find it odd they give you a spare rod aswell like it's normal.
If it is normal what's the fix.
Im using am soil at the recommended ratio and a three bladed beilla also recommend, there's also plenty of cooling and the engine purrs and idles like a kitten.
Please help, as I will have to make a rod catcher in the engine bay.
This is not uncommon on new engines,especially exhaust valve, and it will go away by itself after some liters of fuel. In the mean time, you have to be very careful with lubricating the valve stems. Use thin oil, or a spray lubrication from Würth, which I do (not messy)
/terje
Last edited by Straightleg; 12-27-2014 at 02:56 AM.
12-27-2014, 10:03 PM
#3175
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Madmechanix, I had the same thing happen to me. I went to my local lawn mower repair shop and he had about 500 used Walbro carbs piled in boxes. He let me sort though them and I found a couple with the exact same shafts. $15 each and I was back in business.
Last edited by Remaking; 12-27-2014 at 10:06 PM.
