peter w h

Questions-

1- Is there a factory website in Hungary for Moki and if so what is it.
2- Factory parts supplier.
3- Can someone (in a nut shell, I have heard the long version and don't completely get it) explain the history of the company and
who is building the "real ones".

Peter.

rajincajun

My Feedback: (1)

Just purchased a balsa usa 1/3 scale Stearman with a 215 Moki, haven't run it yet and have been looking for a parts or maintenance manual, does such a thing exist, downloaded the manual on the engine, but it doesn't give much info

oldrcguy

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Nope, this thread is your best bet... Plus Vogelsang. What do you expect for $4K anyway.... LOL Moki really could/should spend a few hours and crank something out.

Whit

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

Guys I'm needing some help installing my moki 250, so I have gotten the turbulators and the pump but I don't understand how everything is supposed to be wired up.

On the turbulator the install seems straight forward except for the fact that it comes with a Black tube that I don't know where its supposed to go, does anyone have pics of the turbulator installed on there 250?

finally how is this pump supposed to be wired up, does it need its own channel? power supply?

reyn3545

I run my pump on a separate battery and switch... a manual switch. You could put it on a transmitter channel also, but my assumption for my plane was that if the manual switch was on, I also want the transmitter switch to be on. Keeping it on a manual switch only also eliminates the possibility of accidentally killing the fuel pump while in flight. There's an overflow valve on the pump, so any excess fuel is pumped back into the tank, not the carb!

I do use a dedicated battery for the pump.

Not sure about the turbulator.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

I run mine on a manual switch and inline with a Smartfly OptoKill switch. Vogelsang points out that it's another way to kill the engine plus if you have a landing "in the field" if it keeps running w/o fuel it can fry itself and or the plane.

my $.02


whit

GeorgiaFlyer

I run mine on the same battery at the ignition thru a SmartFly OptiKill Switch. So the channel that controls the ignition also controls the fuel pump. Ignition on, fuel pump is on. Ignition off, fuel pump is off. Works well for me.
My .02$

Pelle Gris

I run my pump and ignition via a Powerbox Sparkswitch. This regulates the voltage from the 6,6V A123 pack down to 5,5V,as more may hurt the ignition, and controls the ignition/pump via a switch on the TX.
As mentioned above, if you happen to run out of fuel it´s vital to be able to shut down the pump immediately, as letting it run dry may destroy it in no time.

I´m considering installing a safety switch on my TX to operate the Sparkswitch. Then there is no chance of accidentally killing it in the air. I already use such switches for choke and retracts.

I´ll snap a picture of the setup on my test stand tomorrow.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

ok so I found the manual on the pump so that explains, but 1 thing is crazy on the diagram for the carb they actually show a pic of a muffler?

ANYWAY, so if you are using the pump do you need to disconnect the clear festo tube on the engine? will it matter if it gets filled with grease?

Lastly, any information on the black 3mm tube that comes with the turbulator, how do i install it?

Greg Wright

My Feedback: (6)

DiscoWings,
(ANYWAY, so if you are using the pump do you need to disconnect the clear festo tube on the engine? will it matter if it gets filled with grease?)


Yes you do have to disconnect the tube from the engine. I just installed a pump and all i did was remove the tube from the Festo fitting at the engine. I left the tube connected to the pump to keep it looking stock.

GeorgiaFlyer

I did the same with mine. Works well!

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

The black tube supplied with the turbulator is a replacement for the tube from the pulse pump to the carb. It is longer due to the carb being further back. You can forget about it because you have the fuel pump!!!
Has anyone run and flown the Moki 100BVT? (Twin) -Tom

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

so what happens if you leave it on? will grease get into the carb? Also should you plug the holes in the engine/carb?

Salte

I made some tests With an With out the tube and found out that there is wery little if no difrense,and on 5 mokies now i use el pump and the festo tube conected! I know the fuelpump manual tell us to take the tube off but when no difrense i leave it on.

Geir

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

I leave the tube on at the front but disconnected to the carb. That way less gunk on the engine. There will still be grease coming out of the vent at the base of the pulse pump.

sahwang

Hi, I am new here, and have read lots of articles, and found them very helpful. Thank you all experts.
The thing is I found there are lots of grease coming out from the base of the pulse pump after I started to break-in the 180s. Then the engine won't be able to reach the high speed, it will become slow unless I move the throttle stick back. With couple of mid-speed, I will get he high-end back. But gradually the engine became very hard to start, and easily have carb flooded when chocked. I am using oil mix 30:1, and Gotz told me I should change to 50:1 immediately, and he suggested me to use electric pump.

My question here is: does the grease coming out means my engine leak at the base of fuel pump. It looks like coming out from the base not the vent hole on the pump. If I change the oil mix to 50:1, will all these issues resolved? I did have one engine shutdown at the third flight when the fuel is low. Thank you very much all experts here. I will definitely go to get an electric pump...

GR7Racer

The grease should be coming out of a small hole at the base of the pulse pump. It can also come out of the festo connector on the pulse pump and clog the tube that connects the pulse pump to the carb. The electric fuel pump will take the place of the pulse pump and the fuel pumping portion of the carb. This eliminates the possibility of a clogged tube causing your engine to quit in the air. The electric fuel pump also improves the choking and starting characteristics of the engine too. The fuel/oil ratio will not change the amount of grease coming out of the pulse pump, but it will improve the performance of the engine and most likely reduce carbon buildup and plug fouling.

KennyMac

sahwang

Hi KennyMac,

Really appreciate your help. Originally I thought it was leakage of engine shell. Will go to get electronic pump.

SA

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Poor Moki thread...too quiet around here. I would like to make an observation here with the newer large exhaust nuts. They are a great improvement over the older ones. As we all know the older ones kept unscrewing or the teflon seals would soften and thus the nuts would get loose. People would use the red high temp sealer or safety wiring. The new nuts seem to need one tightening after the first run and thats it. How do I know?? You can take a sharpie and mark the nut moving down to the collector ring so the mark on both the ring and nut indicate the position of the nut relative to the ring. After even many runs, the sharpie mark is still visible! Non of the nuts on both my mokis unscrewed! YAY! -Tom

WacoDream

Gents I am getting ready to break in my new Moki 250 7 cylinder. Wanted to thank you all for contributing to the thread. Looking forward to learning and sharing.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Can you retrofit the exhausts to the newer large nuts?

Mine has the older ones and they never stay tight.

Whit

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Whit, I just do not know. Maybe Gotz at Vogelsangaeroscale knows. I am guessing the ring would need replacing too. I no longer own any older engines so I cannot compare.

Waco Dream, Looking forward to hearing your experiences with the seven cylinder. I have inquired before if anyone had one. Did not get a response so maybe you are the first to get and run one.

rbgetz

Maxam... Interesting post on the exhaust nuts, I have a new 300 and have only bench tested several times and each time I've had to tighten them. Being a newer engine, I would think they'd have the new nuts. What engine do you have?

Ragz

I have been following this great thread for a few months now. My carf p47 thunderbolt with the moki 250 is almost ready to go. I have run up the engine on a test bench with a SEP 32x18 props and it runs like a swiss clock. Just purchased a carf 4 bladed props as well….I have installed an emcotec power Fuel RX fuel pump and I am wondering if a turbolator should also be a part of my setup? While I have made notes about post run care for this engine, is there a part on this thread which summarizes the learnings with ABSOLUTE dos and donts? I cannot possible go through this entire thread…way too long... I am atleast one month away from a test flight.

Thanks in advance.


PS: Any advice on which temperature measurement device is ideal for a moki?

Ragz

Does anyone have a plumbing diagram to install an emcotec power fuel rx pump with a moki 250? Since its a variable voltage pump, what is the recommended setting to run it? The instructions say between 30% to 60% depending on engine size.

thanks