wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Where do you get this grease? I've ben searching online and failing! Need an online source if possible.

whit

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Whit, I googled it just now and found it instantly. Google SKF bearing grease and it comes up before I even finish typing. The only problem is you get enough to grease 100 Moki's! I think it is a whole liter...yep 100 greasings. -Tom

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Yes, it comes up instantly but almost all entries are ABOUT it, not where to buy, and none were either the specific SKF grease you showed, or in a quantity that made any sense. If I'm spending $100 on grease at MSC.com I'd at least like to get THE SKF grease you/Gotz recommend.

Where did you buy yours and did it come in a reasonable quantity?

whit

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Oh OK Whit let me look for you.

Reliabilitydirectstore.com has it and it is cheap!


http://www.reliabilitydirectstore.co...f-lghp%202.htm

mogman

I think I've commented about the grease in the front case before but I'll mention it again.
Being an old retired mechanic, I don't know why they put grease in a gearbox. If it was that good your man. trans in your car would have it. Grease is not really a good lube for a gearbox.

I checked the cams and lifters in my Moki 400 after about 20 or so runs and the cams were dry and the lifters showed wear. At basically any rpm's the grease is going to get slung to the sides of the case and basically provides no lube.

What I have done, (thanks to Mick B. in the UK) is add some 80/90 gear oil to the front case.
I remove a lifter that is just below the crankshaft c/line, and remove one of the #1 cyl lifters. I inject oil until it runs out of the lower lifter hole.When it stops running out, I install all the removed parts.

After doing this and running the engine, I now have a little oil residue coming up past the lifters and the cams are oily, not dry like before so things are getting lubrication.
By keeping the oil level below the c/line of the crank, it cannot be over filled. After every 10 flights or so, just pull out the aformentioned lifters and check the level and add oil as required.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Dave.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Dave, You are making a ton of sense. I have checked my tappets and they always have grease on them and they are polished with no striations but still I think I will try it. You have had no troubles with oil spraying out the vent hole? I do want my engines to last forever! -Tom

mogman

Tom, no oil spray. The gear oil has mixed with the existing grease and seeing it ooze past the lifters tells me there is adequate lubrication.
I wish I could do the same with my 7-77.

Cheers,
Dave.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Dave,

I like your tip on the gear oil - thanks.
I've yet to see grease seeping from the pump in my engine.
Makes me suspicious the factory installed grease is not doing it's job. Think the gear oil will help.

Maxam,

Great idea putting the bent hose over the velocity stack intake to keep the gas from running back into the fuse.

Thanks - Jaketab

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Thank you Dave. I am going to give it a whorl.
I still love my 7-70 and 9-90. Gonna put an original Seidel ST 540 in a 1/4 scale Pietenpol. The supplied carb was terrible so I made an adapter on the lathe so I could use a Saito carb intended for the little 3 cylinder 90R3. Made the engine run gobs better!

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Jaketab, Go to the autoparts store and ask them to look at the heater hose selection. They are pre-bent into all kinds of funny shapes. Pick one of the right diameter and curve for your application. As mentioned in an earlier post I use them for exhaust too.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Tom,

Thanks! Excellent Google-fu!

Dave,

I believe I understand what you're saying, but would you be able to post a few pictures of your process and what oil you use? Your argument about oil v grease makes sense to me and I might try to do that vs the grease but I am worried about over filling and using the correct oil. There are LOTS of oils out there and I'm sure some would end up being corrosive!

I have thought about making a video about servicing the Moki before flight and of adjusting the rocker valves but I keep hoping someone better / more mechanical than myself would make one, I'm just barely competent, I hope..... :-))

Whit

LRFitch

Maxam, Yes the module does have an aluminum ring around the top. I have no idea how to take and post a photo, so that's not likely. I talked to Dr. Vogelsang today, and think I have a path forward for the needed power lead to the module. Thanks.

Larry Fitch

mogman

Whit,
some gear oil is corrosive to brass. I understand some of the early Moki's had some brass gears, but all have steel now.
Having said that, i use 80/90 gear oil in the transmission of my Morgan car..it's an English Ford item. It has brass synchro rings and selector forks, I've owned the car for 47 years...gearbox still going strong.
90w. gear oil is just 40w with additives. I use oil I get from the local auto parts shop. If you remove a lifter that is just below the c/line of the crank, you can't overfill the case. If you're still concerned, use the next lifter down. The oil will liquify the existing grease and gear oil is by nature, a little sticky, so will cling to the cams and gears
I think I posted some pictures earlier on in this thread, if I can find them I'll post the post#

Cheers,
Dave.

EDIT

To remove any misgivings about gear oil, you can also use engine oil...30 or 40w and add some STP...really sticky stuff. That will do the trick also.
You can also remove the ignition sensor , it makes it easier to add the oil, plus you can see if the cam is oily or dry.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey Dave, I own a vintage BMW motorcycle (1954) and yes!!! there are very corrosive oils to Brass and Phosphor bronze bearings. You want GL 4 gear oil, NOT GL 5. It is a little harder to find but still made. -Tom

PS Morgans are cool!


Larry, I think the plug is a JR style.

Ragz

Im at a stage where I have setup the Emcotec RX fuel pump with my moki 250. As this is a variable speed pump, what percentage is recommended for the pump to be run at? I believe older APS pumps were not variable (only on/off) and were run at full speed? When I ran my pump today while it was connected to the fuel system, i ran it using a rotary knob on my radio and found that 100% is quite a lot of pressure…atleast I think…I will be surprised if this much pressure is needed to operate the engine…i think most of the fuel will just go back into the tank via the return line at 100% setting. I also plan to use the powerbox Spark switch and share the ignition battery to operate pump. The emcotec manual does not recommend mixing the pump with any other channel, not even the ignition. This means, I have to deal with Choke, Ignition and Pump on 3 different switches/sliders/channels before I even flick the prop. Not nice. Any better and efficient way of making this work? I think its better to have the pump on/off on the radio than a manual onboard on/off switch, just in case there is a flame out, atleast one can turn off the pump, for whatever its worth….not sure if I’m thinking logically here...By the way, I have cut off the infamous pulse line and extended it to exit the cowl…let it weather the aircraft naturally…the carb festo has been plugged off with a 3mm festo cap. All I need to do now, is to setup the pump speed and i am ready to start the engine on the airframe….its a carf p47.

thanks in advance...

GeorgiaFlyer

I used a smartfly ignition kill switch which I believe is similar to the Powerbox Spark Switch. I use one battery to power both the ignition and fuel pump, a LithIon 7.2v. I put the ignition kill switch on one channel on the receiver so that my ignition kill switch on my transmitter operates the ignition on/off and turns the pump on /off. This setup works very well for me. Hope this helps.

rbgetz

I'm testing a setup on my moki 300 using 2 PB Spark switches. They have 2 spark switch versions, a 5.9V and a 7.4V version. I have the 5.9V for the fuel pump and run the 7.4V direct to my Moki ignition. The newer moki ignitions can handle a direct 2S lipo. I’m using an APS Fuel pump that does vary output depending on voltage. I felt the 5.9V would be best. I have both spark switches assigned to one switch on my RX so when the ignition is turned on/off… so does the pump. I have a battery for each switch. I don’t mind the extra weight since I will need it to help with C.G. The Spark switch has an opto-coupler so interference shouldn't be an issue. But again, I haven’t flown this setup, the plane won’t maiden for another 30-45 days but seems to work great “on the ground”

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Dave of BC, Canada,

Assuming the newer 250 does not have the brass gears, may I again assume that either gear oil grades GL-4 or GL-5 will be suitable ????
Locally available gear oils are either 80w-90 or 85w-145. The oil also comes either regular or synthetic.
Can anyone comment if the heavier multi viscosity would also be suitable and whether the synthetic would be compatible with the factory installed grease????
The synthetic has a higher temp rating.

Thanks - Jaketab

LRFitch

Maxam, I believe I have the power lead to the ignition module fixed. I used a 12" servo extension. I removed the female plastic end so I had the three leads with their sockets crimped on. I removed the signal lead, leaving the black and red leads. The small sockets slipped onto the pins in the module perfectly. I installed a small piece of shrink tubing on each socket, and applied some heat with my covering blow dryer, shrinking the insulation. I then reinstalled the aluminum ring and black plate back on the top of the module. I can now plug the 5+ volt source into the male end of the lead, and all is good--I think/hope.

Thanks,
Larry Fitch

mogman

The gear oil I have is Pennzoil 4096, 80/90 GL5. I have had no issues.....so far.. my 400 is not a daily flyer, so not a lot of time on the engine.
The other preference would be 30 or 40w engine oil with some STP added. This makes a sticky oil mix which clings to surfaces such as cams and lifters.

I think, basically, anything is better than grease in this application. My goal was to ensure my cams were lubricated, which they did not appear to be with the grease.

Cheers,
Dave.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Well Dave, I oiled the timing chest per your method. Seemed to hold just under 5 ml in both engines. Very easy to do. I did use GL 4 just in case there were any phosphor bronze bearings. Yes plain motor oil around 40 weight has about the same consistency (viscosity) without the corrosive additives that affect brass/bronze. thank you for your posts and information. -Tom

mogman

Hi Tom.

I just posted what seems to work for me and provided the result I was looking for.
If someone can benefit from this, then, glad to help

Cheers,
Dave.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Maxam,

Hoping after a run or 2 you could report back the difference in the seepage of oil coming from the vent hole in the pump.
I would expect it would increase slightly and may be a sign the cams are being lubed.
Maybe we'll begin to get some good flying weather after a long winter.

Thanks - Jaketab

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Will do Jaketab, It is going to be 17 degrees tomorrow morning........crap.

mick15

As I have indicated elsewhere in this thread, the pressure delivered to the carb should be no more than 4psi. In fact the system could run reliably at half that value.

m