macboss

My Feedback: (44)

Gotz just contacted me and he has heard back from Moki: the enigne is supposed to have the tube installed and he is working with me to get the engine corrected.

I will not be running the engine until this is done.

PS: This may be a running change on the Moki 100 Boxter. The picture I posted of the engine with the tube has SN 10091 and my engine has SN 10015. I have a Valach 120 twin and a Zeonah GT80 twin and both have this tube. Perhaps the Moki engine functions well without this modification but I prefer to have it. I was trying to see if the Kolm boxters have this tube but can not find a good picture of the carb arrangement. Doesn't look like this tube is on a DA 120. This tube is on the Roto 85 FS twin.

And, yes, Gotz provedes excellent customer support. On this issue, I think he had to get ahold of the owner of Moki on holiday.

GeorgiaFlyer

awesome customer service!!

macboss

My Feedback: (44)

Update on my #3376 post, above. Moki notified Gotz that my engine is a version that had interanl porting in the carb mounting neck that provided internal pumping. They changed to the external tube to cut the cost of the more expensive internal porting.

My engine is good to go.

Lletisso

Hey macboss, I'm from Spain, Europe, I have a moki 100 bought in nov. 2014. Mine is SN 100106. This mins is the 106th of this model engine, the one with the tube is the 91th and yours is the 15th, the first 100 of​10015 just means the model engine. I think yout engine is not the last evolution of the moki 100. Check it!

Here is mine:

http://youtu.be/AFDMYPhT4XU

Jordi

jbaldwin

I purchase a Moki 150 just over three years ago and had trouble with it right out of the box. I returned it to the repair facility twice and was assured after the second time that it was repaired and running great. The only problem was that fuel had to be sprayed into the carburetor to start it. This was part of the original problem! After it started, it ran and sounded great. I removed the carburetor and checked it and found nothing wrong. However, when I started to reinstall it I noted that the choke arm was touching the engine mount casting. As a result the choke was not allowed to close completely thereby making the engine extremely hard to start. I readjusted the choke arm and then the engine started as one would expect it to.. Don't know why the repair shops couldn't find that! Now for the rest of the story. After completing the build of a 1/5 scale T-6 Texan, I installed the Moki 150. Unfortunately about ten minutes it maiden flight a wing came off and it crashed engine first of course. The engine was damaged requires several replacement parts. I have been trying since early march to order the required parts from Moki dealers without any luck. I have tried two sources and neither is able to get parts for me. Can any one direct me to a reliable source that can get Moki parts ? If so please give me a call @ 940-781-1056. or e-mail. [email protected].

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Could you just return the engine to the Moki factory to have it repaired ? Not the least expensive solution I know, but with the dollar strong against the Euro it might not be as bad as it once was, and at least you would have it up and going again.
-Mike Oberst

jbaldwin

Mike,

Thanks for your reply and idea. That is a possible solution. However, the shipping cost alone is expensive. With my background I can make the repairs myself if I can get the parts. My aircraft mechanic has an extensive background in radial engines and he is also assisting me. As I stated earlier I sent it in twice for repairs (not to the factory) while it was still under warranty and they were not successful in finding the problem. I am sure the cost of the parts alone will be in excess of $500. With the labor and shipping added to that, it will be very expensive to have it repaired. I can add a little more money and by another brand of engine that has parts readily available. Moki is a great engine but their customer service is non existent. If you have contact information for the factory that you can share with me, it would be greatly appreciated.


Jim Baldwin

ForcesR

jbaldwin, did you consider AMR, they sell and service RC engines of many brands including Moki. They are located in Quebec, Canada, shoot them an e-mail or phone them to inquire about Moki parts. Don't worry, the staff are bilingual and understand and speak English + French.

Roger

http://www.amr-rc.com/

mick15

I agree with regard to the disgraceful parts situation. This practice needs to be challenged as I'm sure in law you cannot refuse to supply parts for your product.

m

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Maybe Greg Wright might chime in here-As I understood it, he was going to return his 250 to the factory for service after it quit and cost him his airplane. He may already have done the leg work and have the contact info. He is active in the war bird forum I know. Hope this helps.
Mike O

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

It appears that I need to add some up-thrust to my Delro Turner W4X with the Moki 250.
Question - Will placing a washer or spacer at 1 of the 3 base ring mounting holes place deforming stress on the mounting ring?
Anyone comment on the proper way to shim this motor.

Thanks - J Tab

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

J Tab, trace on a fine piece of hardwood about 1/2 inch thick, the mount with a pencil, cut it out with a scroll saw inside and out. You now have a ring 1/2 inch thick. Now on the band saw with the fence very close to the blade ( your desired thickness) angle the table the degrees down thrust you need and cut. Actually very easy to do. It will look good and not stress the mount.

flyn2high

My Feedback: (2)

I have two Moki Radial engines. One is a 10 year old 215 cc 5 Cylinder Radial in a Balsa USA Stearman that runs fine using the original top had design ignition module. The second one is in a enlarged Ziroli Hellcat with a 5 year old 250 cc 5 cylinder radial. It came with a defective top hat design ignition module. I did not realize there was anything wrong with the module until I finished the project 5 years later and discovered the problem the first time it ran. The symptoms were that it would run for a few minutes and then it would start to miss and get worse until it would finely quit. I was able to substitute the 215 module in the Hellcat and it works fine. I had several very nice flights with it.

I purchased one of the new Moki blue high voltage modules and installed it in the Hellcat. All of the connectors plug in fine but I do not get a spark at all.

I removed all of the spark plugs from the cylinders and fully seated each one in the ignition cable. I plugged in a fully charged 2 cell LIPO measuring 8.4 vdc and spun the engine by hand. No spark. When the battery is connected and before I move the prop, the power led light comes on solid and the second indicator light blinks about once per second. When I turn the prop the indicator led flashes at the approximate time when a spark should occur.

I also tried it in the Stearman with the similar results.

Any Ideas of what I might be doing wrong or should try? Do you think this is it another defective ignition module?

mick15

Sounds probable to me, I've just re-engine my SeaFury with a 300 went to test run it yesterday, engine would not start.
First led on solid, second led flashes until prop is turned a couple of revs then second led either lights solid or goes out.
Sending it back today.

m

flyn2high

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Mick for your reply. The blinking indicator light may be an indication of an error of some kind.

Can anyone let me know how the LED's respond on a properly working setup with the new Blue ignition module?

Thanks

mick15

The inner one should flash until you rotate the engine, it's sensing which is #1. The light goes out and then flashes when it gets a pulse from the Hall sensor.
Five flashes per revolution.

m

GR7Racer

Lou,
I can't help you with the new ignition, but I had a similar problem with my top hat style ignition. I found that it was very very very picky on what voltage I fed it. I used a powerbox spark switch which has a regulator in it that supplied the ignition with 5.9v and the engine would do just as you say. Run ok initially and then start to miss. On Scott P's recommendation I went to a regulator I could adjust down to around 5.5v and it improved greatly, but I would still have some missing later in the flight, especially when the ambient temps would rise. I ended up with a SmartFly optical ignition kill switch with a built in regulator set to 5.0v and my issues went away. I suspect (but have no proof) that extra voltage going into the top hat ignition would heat up the ignition unit and cause the problems. I came to this conclusion when I could start and run and fly for a few minutes without any problems early in the morning, but couldn't even run it on the ground smoothly later in the day. My ignition was mounted at the top of my Corsair fuse behind the firewall and would heat up quickly even without running on a hot day.

Might be worth a try...
KennyMac

flyn2high

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Kenny:

That is very interesting. My module that came with the Hellcat 250 cc radial may be good after all. I had it set up with an A123 battery regulated down to 5.9 vdc. I would run for a few minutes and then go downhill until it would finely quit. It seems to behave just as yours did where if you wait a bit and start it up it would run good for a shorter length of time. I suspected also that something was heating up and causing it to quit.

I will try it with a 5.0 regular to see if that helps.

It is strange that on my older Stearman I always ran that with a 5 cell NiMH battery. Fully charged it was over 7 vdc. I now use a direct connected A123 battery which is 6.6 vdc. It runs perfectly. Had it out today and it starts on one flip after choking for 5 flips.

GR7Racer

I can't explain why the two top hat ignitions would behave differently, but there does seem to be differences. I'm guessing (again) that there is some sort of voltage regulating circuitry inside the top hat that might vary depending on how old the ignition unit is. Feeding it higher voltage would result in the regulating circuit giving off more heat and something in the ignition doesn't like to be hot. There's other reports on this thread of getting the ignition unit on the other side of the firewall and away from heat sources, so it seems to make sense that keeping it cool internally would be a good idea as well.

Hope that helps you out.

KennyMac

flyn2high

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Kenny:

I just ordered a 4.8 vdc 5A regulator. It will accept my A123 battery. i'll let you know how I make out. I don't think I can easily move it to the back of the firewall but there is a lot of air flow

BeasleyBunch

I hope you all will indulge this newbie this out-of-left-field question...
Is there a mounting template for the Moki 180? Something with the hole and correct location of the 5 bolt holes...

Thanks in advance!

rajincajun

My Feedback: (1)

HELP - Don't know how to start my own thread but have a problem. Have a moki 215 and was flying today, about 3 minutes into the flight heard a "pop" and engine quit. Landed and found prop turn very easy with no compression on engine, rocker arms are moving, think I may have broken a crankshaft???? Anyone know of a parts source or repair center??

Thanks Joe email is [email protected]

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

Vogelsang Aeroscale
[email protected]
919-533-6275

Sorry about your incident, does not sound good.

rajincajun

My Feedback: (1)

Do you know of a parts or repair source??

Thanks

Joe

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Ragincajun, It sounds like the crankshaft or crank pin failed just behind the main bearing. The cam ring still works because it is geared off the crank between the two crankshaft bearings. You can remove a spark plug and see if the piston moved but I am afraid it will not. -Tom