MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
09-13-2015, 01:27 PM
#3502
Did you double check the spark plug wires to make sure that they are connected to the right plugs? I haven't seen the new ignition modules, so I don't know how easy or hard it is to get them incorrect.
09-13-2015, 01:54 PM
#3503
Join Date: Jan 2008
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I received a GT-80 in the mail, it looked like they sent it airmail but forgot to land when they drop shipped it.
The spark plugs were broke the plug wires were torn, the magneto coil was dislodged, what a mess.
You may have the same problem, these shippers mistreat our packages and get away with it, the people now are so lazy they don't want to be bothered by delivering your package, so they see how far they can throw it.
Good move on your part about returning it. I'm glad you are not discouraged because that 400 is an awesome engine, it has a sound of it's own and what a powerhouse, actually all the Moki's are powerhouses....Ron
The spark plugs were broke the plug wires were torn, the magneto coil was dislodged, what a mess.
You may have the same problem, these shippers mistreat our packages and get away with it, the people now are so lazy they don't want to be bothered by delivering your package, so they see how far they can throw it.
Good move on your part about returning it. I'm glad you are not discouraged because that 400 is an awesome engine, it has a sound of it's own and what a powerhouse, actually all the Moki's are powerhouses....Ron
09-14-2015, 04:12 AM
#3506
The new module is just an updated version of the old one so you can run any thing from 6 volt up to 9.9 volt batteries thru it. The only other thing i have seen changed is that there is a Female Multiplex plug on the top
edge that you plug your battery into instead of the wire coming out of the side.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 09-14-2015 at 04:25 AM.
09-14-2015, 06:11 AM
#3507
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I have a Moki 215 cc older version. Not getting any spark on number 4. Changed the coil thought that was the problem , it wasn't . I had taken the connector off the ignition and soldered the wires directly together a while ago. The top hat ignition lights and shows by blinking that all cylinders are firing. Checked the magnets under sensor are are in place. I would think it either the hall sensor wire or ignition. Does anyone have any thoughts or how to check further ?
09-21-2015, 09:20 PM
#3508
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When I got home I noticed a stuck intake valve on #1 and a thrown pushrod. I pulled off the head and discovered the items in the picture in the combustion chamber and intake tube. I then pulled the other heads and discovered more of the same in all cylinders!
As the shrapnel had to come from inside the engine I pulled off the back crankcase cover and saw that all the piston skirts had been knocked off by the crank counterweight, which was the source of the aluminum pieces. I'm not sure what those small screw heads are from, but there are small threaded holes in the master rod.
i am at a loss to explain. The crank bearings seem tight with no side play.
anyone seen or heard of this? It is quite a mess.
09-22-2015, 02:57 AM
#3511
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Screw & screw holes
The three holes & screws that you are referring to hold a retaining plate in place that in turn holds the piston rod connecting pins in place on the master rod. If there are no screws in those holds, it is my guess that they came loose and vibrate out, allowing the pins to come out and the piston rods to detach and causing the engine to lock up.
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
Last edited by jbaldwin; 09-22-2015 at 03:04 AM. Reason: After viewing the pictures, the information I gve you does not seam to appjy to your ingine.
09-22-2015, 07:37 AM
#3513
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Can anyone help please, spent 2 hrs this afternoon trying to start a new moki 400. Followed the instructions to the letter.... Nothing at all happened,
As per the instructions, im using 2s lipo, straight connection with no voltage drop as the ignitions now say 6-9v, plugs were sparking fine, fuel definately getting through, infact my feeling is it was flooding, particularly on bottom 2 cyls, i have experience of all sorts of engines and fly a 7cyl evo260 regularly and have no issues, the problem may well be me but cant see why i wouldnt even get a pop out of it...... Anyone got any suggestions or helpfull starting procedures?( is runnin on 32:1 premix as suggested)
As per the instructions, im using 2s lipo, straight connection with no voltage drop as the ignitions now say 6-9v, plugs were sparking fine, fuel definately getting through, infact my feeling is it was flooding, particularly on bottom 2 cyls, i have experience of all sorts of engines and fly a 7cyl evo260 regularly and have no issues, the problem may well be me but cant see why i wouldnt even get a pop out of it...... Anyone got any suggestions or helpfull starting procedures?( is runnin on 32:1 premix as suggested)
I just had a thought, you can tell by the smoke.
Are you sure you are getting power to your ignition module, the plug from my battery will plug in both ways, so if you are plugged in wrong you won't get a spark.
09-22-2015, 10:53 AM
#3514
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The three holes & screws that you are referring to hold a retaining plate in place that in turn holds the piston rod connecting pins in place on the master rod. If there are no screws in those holds, it is my guess that they came loose and vibrate out, allowing the pins to come out and the piston rods to detach and causing the engine to lock up.
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
09-22-2015, 06:24 PM
#3516
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Yes. He is the one that has been trying very hard to help me but the factory will not respond to him either
I also tried AMR and they did not have any luck. For those thinking about buying a Moki product be fairly warned that they
do not support their products!
I also tried AMR and they did not have any luck. For those thinking about buying a Moki product be fairly warned that they
do not support their products!
09-22-2015, 06:44 PM
#3517
My Feedback: (11)
Guys another option will be to contact Troy Build Models, The RCS radials are one and the same engine but different name on it.
But Gotz should be able to help.
I actually contact Moki when I needed some parts for the 215 I have bought to develop a CDI on it and they got back with me...after 3 weeks,but prices are real high ,
same number but the Money symbol different. 100EUR from them and from Gotz $100 .got the idea?
I will soon have the Moki 215-250 CDi, the 150 and 180 it is available $300. Same will be for 215-250. Same hardware but program different .
I do not see why the German version charges 100 more...I think because they can and is the only other option.
I have tested the 150 with original and the other option CDI and I am not sure, I got some kick backs.
On mine I set a Rev Limit at 6000 RPM so will not over rev and protect the engine.
Will not cut off ignition, cyl will spark over 6000 rpm to prevent flooding but will not develop power.
Mine is one unit, not split like MOKI or the other German unit.
The engine I had was much worst than that, the piston had only top part left, no skirt and even the top was 3/4 gone.
Replaced the cylinder, piston, ring and the small timing gears that now come metal not brass as before.
Thanks
Adrian
But Gotz should be able to help.
I actually contact Moki when I needed some parts for the 215 I have bought to develop a CDI on it and they got back with me...after 3 weeks,but prices are real high ,
same number but the Money symbol different. 100EUR from them and from Gotz $100 .got the idea?
I will soon have the Moki 215-250 CDi, the 150 and 180 it is available $300. Same will be for 215-250. Same hardware but program different .
I do not see why the German version charges 100 more...I think because they can and is the only other option.
I have tested the 150 with original and the other option CDI and I am not sure, I got some kick backs.
On mine I set a Rev Limit at 6000 RPM so will not over rev and protect the engine.
Will not cut off ignition, cyl will spark over 6000 rpm to prevent flooding but will not develop power.
Mine is one unit, not split like MOKI or the other German unit.
The engine I had was much worst than that, the piston had only top part left, no skirt and even the top was 3/4 gone.
Replaced the cylinder, piston, ring and the small timing gears that now come metal not brass as before.
Thanks
Adrian
09-22-2015, 07:45 PM
#3519
My Feedback: (11)
Hi Whit,
The CDi collects the signals from the magnets inside the engine, determine what RPM is the engine at that stage and apply the curve.
Once the processor sees that is over 6K RPM ....does what it needs to do in the software and prevents the engine to gain more RPM.
If you put a small prop the engine can destroy it self from over rev.With this option , the engine will go only to 6k and buzz there.
That is good also when you come down on vertical the engines can over rev and get several K RPM. This also will prevent that ,
will gain some more RPM but will not be full power rpm.
With the little piece of software (and forgive me for not make it public on the details on how and what) the engine does not develop power even tho it is sparking and burning the fuel.
I hope that this will answer the question some how.
The CDi collects the signals from the magnets inside the engine, determine what RPM is the engine at that stage and apply the curve.
Once the processor sees that is over 6K RPM ....does what it needs to do in the software and prevents the engine to gain more RPM.
If you put a small prop the engine can destroy it self from over rev.With this option , the engine will go only to 6k and buzz there.
That is good also when you come down on vertical the engines can over rev and get several K RPM. This also will prevent that ,
will gain some more RPM but will not be full power rpm.
With the little piece of software (and forgive me for not make it public on the details on how and what) the engine does not develop power even tho it is sparking and burning the fuel.
I hope that this will answer the question some how.
Last edited by CH Ignitions; 09-23-2015 at 01:59 PM.
09-23-2015, 10:56 AM
#3521
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The three holes & screws that you are referring to hold a retaining plate in place that in turn holds the piston rod connecting pins in place on the master rod. If there are no screws in those holds, it is my guess that they came loose and vibrate out, allowing the pins to come out and the piston rods to detach and causing the engine to lock up.
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
When I disassembled my 150 after the crash to inspect for internal damage, I found those screws to very tight an difficult to remove.
I am very surprised if they came loose on their own.
I hope that puts some light on the subject for you.
GOOD LUCK IN GETTING PARTS TO REPAIR IT IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO DO!! I have been trying to get parts for my engine since March 7, 2015. I am finding that the factory is not co-operative in supplying parts.
Jim
09-24-2015, 10:23 AM
#3522
Gotz has confirmed that the retainer plate came loose and was fodder for the crankshaft to destroy the piston skirts. Seems like this would have been a factory error in securing the screws, especially based on what you said about removing your plate. Not very comforting when you consider the cost of these motors, and the aircraft they are in...
How seriously was the Corsair damaged? I hope not too bad, that's a really nice model.
Thank you,
09-24-2015, 09:19 PM
#3523
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I agree, what is your best guess on the hours on your engine? Or how much fuel has been put through it? I'm trying to make a call on pulling mine apart and checking the retainer plate fasteners.
How seriously was the Corsair damaged? I hope not too bad, that's a really nice model.
Thank you,
How seriously was the Corsair damaged? I hope not too bad, that's a really nice model.
Thank you,
Trying to get some ballpark figures from Julian, Gotz engine guy, on the parts costs, but he is not very responsive, which is troubling. Don't want to spend $100 to ship off an engine without knowing if it will cost more to repair than a new motor! The horror stories I've heard on parts prices ($700 for 4 valves, 3 pushrods, and 5 copper o-rings) have me rightly concerned. And when you get no response from your questions it basically answers them...
09-25-2015, 12:00 PM
#3524
I hear you on the parts prices, I had to replace an exhaust ring and it ran over $500! The price of the copper crush rings set me off and I sourced them from a motorcycle supply house for about 10% of the cost. Let me know if you need those and I'll PM you the data.
In a related note, my buddy Mike's Thunderbolt only did one flight at WOTR this year because a valve spring basically disintegrated requiring him to limp the plane around the pattern on 4 cylinders and land. Goetz told him this is a new one and he's in discussion with Moki over it. Mike thinks the valve may have hit the piston though the engine kept running and was not making scary noises.
In a related note, my buddy Mike's Thunderbolt only did one flight at WOTR this year because a valve spring basically disintegrated requiring him to limp the plane around the pattern on 4 cylinders and land. Goetz told him this is a new one and he's in discussion with Moki over it. Mike thinks the valve may have hit the piston though the engine kept running and was not making scary noises.
09-29-2015, 08:21 PM
#3525
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I hear you on the parts prices, I had to replace an exhaust ring and it ran over $500! The price of the copper crush rings set me off and I sourced them from a motorcycle supply house for about 10% of the cost. Let me know if you need those and I'll PM you the data.
In a related note, my buddy Mike's Thunderbolt only did one flight at WOTR this year because a valve spring basically disintegrated requiring him to limp the plane around the pattern on 4 cylinders and land. Goetz told him this is a new one and he's in discussion with Moki over it. Mike thinks the valve may have hit the piston though the engine kept running and was not making scary noises.
In a related note, my buddy Mike's Thunderbolt only did one flight at WOTR this year because a valve spring basically disintegrated requiring him to limp the plane around the pattern on 4 cylinders and land. Goetz told him this is a new one and he's in discussion with Moki over it. Mike thinks the valve may have hit the piston though the engine kept running and was not making scary noises.
Julian got back to me with some estimated parts prices. About 70 bucks each for the Pistons, as are the valves. I know it will need five pistons for sure and one or two valves, plus gaskets and bearings. So hopefully he can bring it back to life and I can get the beast back up in the air again!