MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
#3729
My Feedback: (43)
My friend Scott says the cortex are the best and easiest to set up.
Not cheap but probably don't want to go cheap on a multi thousand dollar airplane!
If I did use them, it would be nice for some of the fields that I fly at where the flight line is really close to the runway. Those other fields where the runway is 200' wide, even I can take off :[]
It makes a pilot that has trouble keeping a 'tail dragger' straight, especially on a hard surface, look like a pro.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...yro-Fixed-Wing
Sam
Not cheap but probably don't want to go cheap on a multi thousand dollar airplane!
If I did use them, it would be nice for some of the fields that I fly at where the flight line is really close to the runway. Those other fields where the runway is 200' wide, even I can take off :[]
It makes a pilot that has trouble keeping a 'tail dragger' straight, especially on a hard surface, look like a pro.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...yro-Fixed-Wing
Sam
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-12-2016 at 08:13 AM.
#3730
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Modesto,
CA
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Greg, perfectly said, all I will add is that for me the nerves just thinking of a 4K engine in a plane I am flying will distract me from flying...maybe a Gyro will help me relax lol..
Its settled in my mind, I will get one and I was looking at the cortex Sam so thank you for that info.
Its settled in my mind, I will get one and I was looking at the cortex Sam so thank you for that info.
#3731
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Well, step one, got the Hellcat ordered... Moki 180 here I come! (starting a separate banking account for the Moki)..... probably get it ordered in a few months..have two birds in line first.
BTW, been wanting a Hellcat for many years, took the sound of a Moki to make it happen lol.....
BTW, been wanting a Hellcat for many years, took the sound of a Moki to make it happen lol.....
#3732
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bellingham,
WA
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Agree +100!
Just give em a few years to catch-up!
Joe
Just give em a few years to catch-up!
Joe
I use Gyro's in all of my planes...
But don't get the idea that a gyro is going to save or help you fly or save your plane from crashing.
Because everyone that thinks that, they are totally wrong in there deception on what a gyro is there for.
I will just leave it at that cause i don't want to get into it with any of the none believers.
But don't get the idea that a gyro is going to save or help you fly or save your plane from crashing.
Because everyone that thinks that, they are totally wrong in there deception on what a gyro is there for.
I will just leave it at that cause i don't want to get into it with any of the none believers.
#3734
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Yes sir! Love that cat!! I got a lot of reading on this engine to catch up on.
Sorry for the sidetrack guys.... thank you for your patience
So being a radial multicylinder engine, is vibration less than a single cylinder and being 4cycle is power less than 180cc 2 stroke counterpart?
Sorry for the sidetrack guys.... thank you for your patience
So being a radial multicylinder engine, is vibration less than a single cylinder and being 4cycle is power less than 180cc 2 stroke counterpart?
#3735
Yes sir! Love that cat!! I got a lot of reading on this engine to catch up on.
Sorry for the sidetrack guys.... thank you for your patience
So being a radial multi cylinder engine, is vibration less than a single cylinder and being 4cycle is power less than 180cc 2 stroke counterpart?
Sorry for the sidetrack guys.... thank you for your patience
So being a radial multi cylinder engine, is vibration less than a single cylinder and being 4cycle is power less than 180cc 2 stroke counterpart?
#3736
I don´t know about the 180, but my homemade geared 124 cc inline pulls the same prop at about the same rpm as my Moki 250. So my guess is, that the Moki 180 can be compared to a 80-100 cc two-stroke, but with the ability to spin a much more efficient prop.
In my experience the high pitch props used on the radials are much more efficient than the low pitch counterparts normally used on two-strokes. In fact I tried a Fiala 30x16x2 prop on a 140 cc two-stroke powered tug, and the performance was WAY better than with the 32x12x2 prop I used initially.
According to the prop calculator I use, made by the late Pé Reivers, the thrust at 70 km/h is 4-6 kg higher with the former prop, which can really be felt.
In an attempt to lower the noise level I´m going with a Fiala 28x16x3 on the tug this season, as this should, theoretically, provide almost the same thrust and speed as the two-blade, while lowering the tip speed significantly.
In my experience the high pitch props used on the radials are much more efficient than the low pitch counterparts normally used on two-strokes. In fact I tried a Fiala 30x16x2 prop on a 140 cc two-stroke powered tug, and the performance was WAY better than with the 32x12x2 prop I used initially.
According to the prop calculator I use, made by the late Pé Reivers, the thrust at 70 km/h is 4-6 kg higher with the former prop, which can really be felt.
In an attempt to lower the noise level I´m going with a Fiala 28x16x3 on the tug this season, as this should, theoretically, provide almost the same thrust and speed as the two-blade, while lowering the tip speed significantly.
#3737
My Feedback: (62)
Pelle, you are correct and your experience matches propellor theory. Unless for hovering a prop with a pitch to diameter ratio of less than .5 is best for stirring paint. A 32x16 =.5 32x18 =.56. As the ratio increases the efficiency increases to a point. People argue a very low pitch is good for slow planes yet a Pietenpol (slow flying homebuilt) uses a 74x51 which is a ratio of .7! -Tom
#3738
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: JESSHEIM Ullensaker, NORWAY
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Maxam,
Regarding your post 3709 above, I have discovered your post to be good advice. School me if you would as I have never seen the inside of a radial. The Moki radial has 2 cam rings - one for intake valves and one for the exhaust. Question - on each cam ring are there 4 cam lobes ???? If so, does it take 2 revs of the crank for the cam lobe to rotate 1/4 turn to the next lobe ??? So is each valve being lifted in turn by the 4 lobes on the cam ring which accounts for the slight variance in the valve lash ????
FYI - Regarding Moki 250 props, in the video posted below my engine is tuning a Xoar Laminated 32 x 18. Seems to be a very good stiff prop for this combo other then it may slightly over-rev the engine if not managed. Has anyone tried the Biela 32 x 22 on the 250 ????
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bvQ3ApFfT4
Regards - J Tab
Regarding your post 3709 above, I have discovered your post to be good advice. School me if you would as I have never seen the inside of a radial. The Moki radial has 2 cam rings - one for intake valves and one for the exhaust. Question - on each cam ring are there 4 cam lobes ???? If so, does it take 2 revs of the crank for the cam lobe to rotate 1/4 turn to the next lobe ??? So is each valve being lifted in turn by the 4 lobes on the cam ring which accounts for the slight variance in the valve lash ????
FYI - Regarding Moki 250 props, in the video posted below my engine is tuning a Xoar Laminated 32 x 18. Seems to be a very good stiff prop for this combo other then it may slightly over-rev the engine if not managed. Has anyone tried the Biela 32 x 22 on the 250 ????
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1bvQ3ApFfT4
Regards - J Tab
I use a Biela 32x22 on my Evo 250. 20% more push than on a Menz 32x18. +/- 4000 rpm on ground. CARF Pitts Python
/terje
Last edited by Straightleg; 04-19-2016 at 10:26 AM.
#3739
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West Richland, WA
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I have a 215cc MOKI, and would like to remove the motor mount from the back of the engine. I have removed the two bolts that mount the carb, and the four smaller bolts that I think hold the mount in place. With all six bolts/screws removed, the mount still doesn't want to come off. Is there more to it, and is there any chance I'll screw something up by removing the mount. The reason for taking this all apart is to allow me to accurately drill the three motor mount holes in the firewall of a new airplane I'm building. Any help will be appreciated.
Larry Fitch
Larry Fitch
#3740
My Feedback: (6)
LR Fitch,
Draw yourself a template instead of pulling the motor apart. Take a piece of card stock and trace the mount on to it. Then just use an old bolt that you grind a point on to and use that as a punch to locate the holes in the mount.
Draw the firewall shape on to it also and then you can just tape that on to the plane and use that to drill your pilot holes to mark the firewall for the engine.
Draw yourself a template instead of pulling the motor apart. Take a piece of card stock and trace the mount on to it. Then just use an old bolt that you grind a point on to and use that as a punch to locate the holes in the mount.
Draw the firewall shape on to it also and then you can just tape that on to the plane and use that to drill your pilot holes to mark the firewall for the engine.
#3741
LR Fitch,
Draw yourself a template instead of pulling the motor apart. Take a piece of card stock and trace the mount on to it. Then just use an old bolt that you grind a point on to and use that as a punch to locate the holes in the mount.
Draw the firewall shape on to it also and then you can just tape that on to the plane and use that to drill your pilot holes to mark the firewall for the engine.
Draw yourself a template instead of pulling the motor apart. Take a piece of card stock and trace the mount on to it. Then just use an old bolt that you grind a point on to and use that as a punch to locate the holes in the mount.
Draw the firewall shape on to it also and then you can just tape that on to the plane and use that to drill your pilot holes to mark the firewall for the engine.
#3742
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West Richland, WA
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Greg, and Georgia,
Thanks for the good advice, and I will likely follow it. I attempted to do exactly that about two times, and didn't get perfect hole placement. I have a set of hole center punches, but can only access two of the three holes in the mount due to the engine being in the way. I'll fiddle with it again today and see if I can make a suitable template.
Thanks again,
Larry Fitch
Thanks for the good advice, and I will likely follow it. I attempted to do exactly that about two times, and didn't get perfect hole placement. I have a set of hole center punches, but can only access two of the three holes in the mount due to the engine being in the way. I'll fiddle with it again today and see if I can make a suitable template.
Thanks again,
Larry Fitch
#3744
My Feedback: (2)
Pictured what you will be looking at if you remove the mount and carb intake tube and go into the ignition coils.
The mount should separate with little resistance.
When my motor was fairly new I had an ignition coil go bad.
The repair involved de-soldering and soldering in a new one.
J Tab
The mount should separate with little resistance.
When my motor was fairly new I had an ignition coil go bad.
The repair involved de-soldering and soldering in a new one.
J Tab
#3745
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: West Richland, WA
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Jaketab,
Thanks for the photos! When I finally realized there are five bolts holding the mount to the engine (not four), the mount came right off. Your middle photo (DSCF3237) is exactly what I see, except the machined plate on mine is black--likely anodized aluminum. So I lifted the mount off, made a couple templates, and carefully reasembled the mount and carb. Guys, thanks for all the warnings and information. It really helped keep me out of things I didn't want to mess with. Now my mounting ring is drilled and epoxied to the firewall that will be the front of my new tug.
Thanks Again,
Larry Fitch
Thanks for the photos! When I finally realized there are five bolts holding the mount to the engine (not four), the mount came right off. Your middle photo (DSCF3237) is exactly what I see, except the machined plate on mine is black--likely anodized aluminum. So I lifted the mount off, made a couple templates, and carefully reasembled the mount and carb. Guys, thanks for all the warnings and information. It really helped keep me out of things I didn't want to mess with. Now my mounting ring is drilled and epoxied to the firewall that will be the front of my new tug.
Thanks Again,
Larry Fitch
#3747
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Concord,
NC
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Fellow Moki owners- couple weekends ago at the Sodbuster fly-in at Camden SC I noticed (with my Russian LA-7) as I was about to take to my second flight of the day that my muffler ring was completely loose on my Moki 250. After pulling the cowl off I noticed that the 12mm bends coming out of each head had come apart at each fairing. It was consistent on each one at the same place. I spoke with Scott Prossen and he has never heard of this......just curious if anyone else has experienced this problem? I am currently searching for 5 new 12mm bends and can’t wait to re-align all 5 ha ha!
#3748
Fellow Moki owners- couple weekends ago at the Sodbuster fly-in at Camden SC I noticed (with my Russian LA-7) as I was about to take to my second flight of the day that my muffler ring was completely loose on my Moki 250. After pulling the cowl off I noticed that the 12mm bends coming out of each head had come apart at each fairing. It was consistent on each one at the same place. I spoke with Scott Prossen and he has never heard of this......just curious if anyone else has experienced this problem? I am currently searching for 5 new 12mm bends and can’t wait to re-align all 5 ha ha!
#3749
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Thanks for the reply Growler84! No all 5 of my bends came apart right at the copper crush ring going inside the head. as I have learned over the last couple days I think this is a flaw with the 12mm bends mostly.....but a friend of mine explained that they all do this over time. Vogelsang has 5 new bends on order for me directly from Moki. He only carries 14mm bends so special order which means 4 weeks.......No flying at Joe Nall! bummer!
To your point I have not had the problem in your picture. I have 3 moki's.
To your point I have not had the problem in your picture. I have 3 moki's.
#3750
Uhmm...they do it over time? In my little group of Moki operators we have one engine with well over 200 flights on it and no such issues. Maybe just lucky. One more thing to watch out for.