jairaksinen

Below 6000 rpm I believe is the recommendation. Over the last weekend I tested some idle RPMs, 410-470 rpm without loosing the lower cylinders! I kept it at that for about a minute and it feels it could go lower but the carb is fully closed so it seems that the small hole in the butterfly is giving just enough air. Finally the engine seems to work as it should!

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

5000 RPM maximum, and you want to avoid that as much as possible. Most of us have thrown pushrods during the Moki learning process and it is not fun. If the engine sounds like a F1 engine, the RPM is too high. These engines make their power at lower RPMs and they sound much more scale . Very nice Corsair!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

My opinion, this is what max RPM's should sound like.
4 blade 30" prop on a Moki 250 turning 3650 on the ground.

low pass:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u1RRUYQ7Tc


ground rpm sound and scale speed passes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERTe1bnuPck


Depending on the weight of the plane, I have the lighter F4U at 3450 rpm's.

jairaksinen

If only I had a constant RPM prop . But yes I do agree, that the engine is at its best on lower rpm.

jairaksinen

That low pass does sound like close to 6000 rpm...

affas

Hi,

Anyone familiar with Emcotec PowerFuel RX pump? I got the older Emcotec 380 and they work great but I am not able to get this new one running. 2S LiPO direct into BAT and own channel into RX side. Blu light falshing rapidly and no signs of running. The manual says no startup setup needed. I have tried other channels and also end point adjustment, no joy :-(

Any suggestions?

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Biela Carbon 32 x 22 Prop drilled for Moki.
See ad: http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...itemId=1083040

Regards J Tab

rbgetz

Hi alf... I've attached a document that I followed. Same programming as the RX pump. You'll see the programming section. I did this and it now runs. It does need set up.

Rob

JSZ

My Feedback: (73)

I have two Moki's, a 215 and a new 150. The 150 was new and never could get the proper rpm's out of it. So I contacted Julian Mashburn from JM engineworks. All I can tell you is he offers excellent service. My engine was not easy to diagnose the problem, but with his perseverance and knowledge of these engines I'm once again a happy Moki owner. My Meister P-47 has come Alive. He kept me informed of the progress and even sent me a video of it running. He is also a certified repair facility for IQ Hammer turbines now as well. I highly recommend his service, located in North Carolina

affas

Thanks a lot!


Hi,


I did read in the Moki maintenance forum and saw that You have found a good way of running the Moki 150.

I have 2 Moki 250 and one 215, all running great. Started my brand new Moki 180 today. Starts easily but only 3 cylinders running. From front, top 1230 and left bottom 0730 does not fire at all… I do use a second Emcotec pump(that works on my Moki 250), changed plugs, 2S LiPO direct to the ignition. Adjusting the needle does not seem to fire it at all at these 2 cylinders.

Corrected:
I did check the ignition with all plugs out. The one 0730 gives spark but very weak, the top one is dead. nice on a new engine :-(

Pelle Gris

I have been working on a 1:3 scale Yak 50 on and off for a few years. Originally I wanted to power it by a homemade geared 124cc inline twin, but when a good deal for a Moki 250 came up I jumped for it.
Since then I have been looking for a suitable and scale looking propeller for it, without much luck I must add, but recently a friend convinced me to contact Christian Ramoser, who makes the Varioprops, to see if he had a suitable propeller.
As luck would have it, he had recently finished a new set of 33,6" Hamilton Standard blades, and when cut down to 30,5" they look the part, and the engine should be able to drive this size with enough pitch for good aerobatic performance.

Yesterday I finally managed to run the engine with the new prop, and his predictions was spot on it seems. His advice was to set the prop for 24" pitch, which should give about 3300-3400 rpm on the ground. He estimated a static thrust of about 22 kg and a theoretical top speed of +200 km/h.
For now I have only been able to verify the first prediction, as the engine did about 3350 rpm on the test stand with 24" pitch. :-)

The unit seems very high quality indeed.
The blades are very thin and quite stiff even though he uses some sort of injection moulding process. But it´s in no way comparable to a saggy old APC I might add. Apparently the blades contains some form of carbon too.

Setting the pitch is very simple, turning a single socket head screw embedded in the hub, which adjusts all blades simultaneously. A pitch gauge who mounts at the blade root as well as a thin "pointer" completes the setup.

I´m looking forward to eventually testing the propeller in the air, but that will be quite a while still. :-(

jairaksinen

Looks like I need to change the bearings to my Moki 250. Anyone here done it yet? What are the things to pay attention to and what would be the easiest way to do it?

Jyrki

GeorgiaFlyer

++1 very pleased with Julian's service on my Moki engines. I have a 180 and two 250s

jairaksinen

Hello, I'm now almost done... Just wanted to confirm the timing gear alignment. In the picture you see the little dot on the gear that is now aligned with the top cylinder being at top dead center. Is this correct? I managed to drop the axle from the case before take the front open so it may be couple of tooth misaligned.

thanks,
Jyrki

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Ok guys I got my first Moki 250. It's in a GeeBee R3 Airworld Modles
its got the fuel pump, running a 32x18 2 blade

I have lots of gassers but this is my first Moki. Its the first I have ever seen so my experience is low

This bird was built 4 years ago, and sat for almost 2 years before I got it.

My attempt found out something was stuck in the fuel pump, cleaned it

1st flight easy and ok. 2nd flight bad. Started to feel weak and would not Come Down to a idle and it died on me. Found a whole lot of Crap on the fuel filter screen in carb

cleaned it, motor runs ok, 4500 on the ground. But it loses power at full power vs 3/4 stick. The rpms go down to 4150. Is this how moki run? I know they unload a little in the air
On flight it would run great at 3/4 stick but lose power through the flight. So I richen the H needle and it made it worse in the air, now what. My setup has baffle on front and great air exist. What am doing wrong

Straightleg

Check that the throttle opening is not more than 3/4 at full stick. Fine tune with ATV

/terje

jairaksinen

Well my Moki 250 does not behave in that way, it increases RPM until it is at full throttle. It is true that with the butterfly type valve there is not much happening after 3/4 position, but when I'm in the air I can clearly hear the RPM drop if I reduce the throttle a little. So I do not find it a good solution to limit the valve travel, but would look for the reason why it drops RPM. I had a issue once with very high idle rpm. The reason was found to be leaking intake line. Now I can idle the engine below 500rpm. To check leaking intake, I blew air through the carb and noticed air coming out from the intake line from the cylinder end.

Jyrki

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

When I was taking the carb apart, I noticed that some of the intake and exhaust nuts were lose, so maybe I fixed it without reading.
thanks

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Is is its normal for a Moki to lose a little RPM at full butterfly open? I have no issues lowering the ATV in the TX. I just want to make sure that's normal. It's a complete different beast vs DLE111 lol

Straightleg

Nobody I know, have full throttle opening on their Mokis...

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Mikes68charger,

Sent you a private message regarding your Gee Bee R3.

Jaketab

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Totally agree, full throttle on the stick = 5/8 to 3/4 open on the carb. Far better running and response to throttle changes. -Tom

jairaksinen

Mine had very tight nuts, but two intake lines were still leaking between the nut and the intake pipe. I changed the copper gaskets and put some teflon tape. Since then the engine has been like a wet dream

jairaksinen

Perhaps these engines are individuals, Mine works perfectly with full open on the carb, although I have done some modification to the inlet lines to get a better flow. Perhaps that has some positive effect since I can idle below 500 rpm without losing the lower cylinders, and yes, the carb is then fully closed. It seeps enough air through the small hole in the butterfly.

GeorgiaFlyer

I have three Mokis and all three of them lose RPM when pushing the throttle past 3/4. I think farther back in this thread it is discussed to adjust throttle travel so full on the transmitter is 3/4 mechanical full on the carb. That is how I have always adjusted my Mokis. Like you said all my other gas engines do not behave like this. Moki is the only one that does.