Dzordzik

OK, no problem to make video like you want but where exactly you want to measure temperature? Near spark plug between valves? This week I discuss for some time about my engine with Zdenek Vlach - constructer of all Valach engines. Very good and experienced guy. If you will want sometimes I have telephone number to mr. Fiala, owner of Fiala propeller company - he buy before some time Valach motors and offer very nice combos - engine with propellers, both from one company.
Btw, how about max rpm on the ground? I was around 3900 with 34x14 now. 32x18 is too small for this engine. Zdenek told me it is normal when engine unloads in flight for more than 1200-1300 rpm, then I will be over 5000 because small pitch on propeller.
What propellers you use on your 5cylinder and how about rpms? Have some logs from flight?

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey a video is not necessary just some temp readings is plenty. I use a 34x16 SEP laminated on my 215's and they work very well. around 4000 on the ground. Right between the valves in front is fine for temp measurements. I use common sense during flying. In a dive i am always throttled back. Level flight a bit above 1/2 throttle and take off 3/4. Kinda like flying full size. Your help and information has been quite benificial in making a decision to purchase! -Tom

Andrew Bailey

Some advice please. I am considering buying a Corsair (Schachermayer) which has a Moki 150 installed. I am not sure of the weight, but I would think it has to be in the 45 - 50 lbs region. I do not like an overpowered scale setup but I am concerned that this engine might not be sufficiently powerful for the airframe. I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Has anyone flown this or the CARF Corsair on the 150 or 180 engines?

Dzordzik

OK,Sep prop have much thinner blades than my scale prop, especially on end. I try to make video in few days (easier for me than write numbers and rewrite it here). I use throttle management on every my model, no problem. Will be glad to help you

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey Dzord, I forgot to mention valve oiling. I use a light machine oil on all moving surfaces before the flying day. No I also use a spray oil to make sure the actual valve stems get oiled where they slide up and down in the valve guides. At the end of the day i wipe off all black gunk around the valve areas to keep the engine clean. After a number of visits to the field I use Chlorinated brake cleaner sprayed deep into the valve area around the springs. You will not believe the amount of black gunk that will come out. Step 1. Spray into valve area. Step 2. wait about 3 minutes. this gives the cleaner time to dissolve the accumulated carbon on the stem. Step 3. Spray again and wipe off. If you have an air hose you can blast out any remaining brake cleaner. The cleaner removes ALL lubricant so right away oil everything that has to do with the valve train! This procedure will greatly help with prevention of valve sticking which can be a problem with Moki's.

Dzordzik

Hi Maxam, here it is. I made next video with some temperature measurement of heads, muffler etc. in Celsius and Fahrenheit too (for you). Help it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hajf...ature=youtu.be

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey thanks a lot for your efforts. Temps on the lower cylinders are typically the problem areas. What I do is run the engine up to full throttle for a few seconds and shut down then immediately measure every cylinder in front between the rockers. Careful listening to your video indicates this is not necessary because your engine runs very well! I am sure you are getting excited to get this engine into a model. -Tom

Dzordzik

Hi Tom, I can make another video as you wrote with readings in F.
I want to ask you for another things. I don´t use fuel pump and engine is very sensitive to L needle settings. I have now setup where idle is very low and reliable, transitions and full rpm is good but if I go from idle to full rpm very fast, there is little hole in transition as you seen in my last video. Is this setting correct or I may open L needle a little? If I do that, engine sounds much more burblings and haven´t idle and low vibrations as good as now, is much rich with bugger vibrations for my ear.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

These engines should not be throttled instantly. Your settings are quite good. I even set up my servo for the throttle slow to full throttle. I do use the fuel pump for reliability. Some engines run well with out it but you must keep the pulse tube clear!!!

Dzordzik

Yes, I know. After 5 liters of fuel tube is clear.
Today I made some measurement. After some idle, temps are from 153 to 163F, after full throtle temps are 177 to 197F. Lowest temperatures are on lower cylinders.
Now my biggest problem is run procesure. I use standard - choke on - run, choke off - run but problem is with choke off it took too much time to run - engine run but quit in second and I must repeat choke on/off procedure to start. For run, you set more throtle than idle? Now I have spring on throtle linkage and I cannot set more than idle for run on testbed.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Nice temps on cylinders. You have a good engine. Starting; choke on throttle at 1/8th or so. Flip till it fires. Choke then off and should start within about three flips. Engine is harder to start at idle. I test run my engines with a servo on a radio for precise control.

Dzordzik

Thx. How often you check valve clerance? I want to do it now, after 5 liters.
Can you send me your email? I will send you some pics of model for this sweet baby :-)

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

After a couple of valve adjustments during break in, they should be checked after every 20 flights or so. This first adjustment session, remove all spark plugs. This makes adjusting easier. Start with the top cylinder at top dead center at the position where both valves are fully closed. Use the feeler gauge to adjust to correct gap. You are not finished with this cylinder! There are additional cams on the cam track. They might not be concentric. Rotate the prop two exact turns from the beginning adjustment position and measure again. If more loose leave alone, if less gap readjust. I do not know how many cams are on the cam track so do another two turns and check again. Now repeat for the next six cylinders. It is better to have a valve a bit too loose than too tight. If too tight the valve can get burned. DO NOT over tighten the spark plugs!

Dzordzik

OK, will do it exactly you wrote. Thx for usefull informations. Can you send me in PM your email pls?

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

E-mail sent.

mitchilito

My Feedback: (7)

There are only 2 cam lobes so you only need to check twice. My brand new 300 shows several thousandths difference between the two and I agree with Tom: "If more loose leave alone, if less gap readjust."

mick15

You're right mitch, my 250 the difference was more than the recommended valve clearance. I complained to the supplier who denied there was anything wrong!


m

Of course this is the result of poor engineering.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

I have three moki 215's; two newer ones with the big exhaust nuts and an older one from around 2007. The new ones cams are nearly perfect. The older engine's cams are off quite a bit. All three engines run excellent! The old one is slightly easier to start.

paulrcpilot-RCU

My Feedback: (32)

Hi Folks,
What is the best way to get ahold of Vogelsang Aviation I have called several times. I would like to purchase a Moki from them.

Thanks

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Try email - [email protected]

flatsguide

My Feedback: (1)

A few weeks ago I learned that Dr. Volgalsang was in the hospital with pneumonia. Hope all is well.
regards, Richard

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

I hope he is OK, I need a Moki and an Airworld kit from him too! In the past I have never had trouble getting him by email or phone, but usually I email first and then talk out the details.

Growler84

My Feedback: (8)

I emailed him well wishes and he replied that he is back up on his feet and returning to normal operations.

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

I talked to Gotz this week about getting a Moki S-180. I should have it in a couple of weeks an looking forward to owning one. He has quite a little package put together for the Moki so I will have an electric pump, and ply baffle , exhaust extensions, some tools. Man I hope I get a runner and don't have to tinker too much

Ragz

I ran up my moki 250 with the emocotec rx fuel pump today. It starts in a couple of flicks and idles beautifully under 900. The needles are set at H(1.75) and L(1.25). Now when I open throttle, it wants to lean cut around 40%. I have removed the cowl and even when I open up the H needle to 2 or more turns, there is no change in the behaviour of the throttle. This engine has not had more than 2 gallons of fuel yet. The last time I ran it, I was getting 3850 rpm on the ground and I flew the airplane. Just a minute before landing I felt engine was loosing power so I landed. Ever since then, its misbehaving when I open throttle. What could be happening? I have never opened the plugs nor tampered with the cams etc.