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MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence

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Old 10-05-2018, 09:44 AM
  #4201  
Moebius44
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Originally Posted by Captainbob
Two years ago I bought a Moki 250 for a comp arf F4-U i was building. Initial test running on a test stand was not satisfactory. it wasn't possible to get the high speed mixture rich enough (turn the needle out three or more turns no drop in rpm). I settled for this, finished the airplane and installed the engine and test flew. However, the Moki quit frequently, once in flight, and was just very temperamental. I started reading others comments in this forum and found out that many were having similar problems. At one point V.A. came out recommending an electric fuel pump. To me, this was an admission from the factory rep. that the engine had issues. Finally, out of total frustration, I discarded the factory Walbro carb. In it's place I used an O.S. Max 8B carb I had in my "junk box" (I believe O.S. used this on their 108 motor). GUESS WHAT! All problems disappeared. I use no pump of any kind, not even muffler pressure. The throttle response is much more linear and CH temps have dropped from somewhere around 250F to less than 200F (Jeti telemetry). I've had many flights on the Corsair since making this change and I no longer have any concerns about the engine stopping in flight or any other time.
Great idea; a quick check online appears this carb is not available. Is this so? Can you enlighten us about mods required? Now wondering whether they may be another, more readily available carb that would also fill the bill. I'm really after reliability on an aerobatic setup.

Thanks...
Old 10-05-2018, 01:11 PM
  #4202  
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Yes, this carburetor is probably not available. But I,m sure that any nitro R/C two stroke carb of similar size will work. One that comes to mind is the Moki 180/210 engine carb, a very high quality unit by the way.
The main problem with the Walbro is that the carb throat is too large, this. causes a very weak DELTA P in the venturi. The throat area of the O.S. carb is 62 pct. of the Walbro.
Old 10-05-2018, 01:17 PM
  #4203  
Moebius44
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Originally Posted by Captainbob
Yes, this carburetor is probably not available. But I,m sure that any nitro R/C two stroke carb of similar size will work. One that comes to mind is the Moki 180/210 engine carb, a very high quality unit by the way.
The main problem with the Walbro is that the carb throat is too large, this. causes a very weak DELTA P in the venturi. The throat area of the O.S. carb is 62 pct. of the Walbro.
Thanks. I have a 215; I ownder if it has been established:
- if the two engines share the identical carb
- if either the 215 or 250 has demonstrated a greater difficulty to tune / keep running reliably.
Old 10-05-2018, 06:05 PM
  #4204  
Captainbob
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Just read the posts.This forum topic goes back to 2009. And from the beginning a lot of the posts had to do with how to adjust the needle valves properly, how to prevent overheating, the necessity of keeping the impulse line free of grease, and so on. The only "fix" the factory could offer was the electric fuel pump which is expensive, must run all of the time, and probably is going to require an additional battery pack. And this "fix" doesn't really address the main problem. It is merely a substitute for the Walbro pump which is relatively trouble free and requires no electric power. Eliminate both these problems- get a two stroke nitro carb.
Old 10-05-2018, 06:11 PM
  #4205  
Hinckley Bill
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Originally Posted by Captainbob
Yes, this carburetor is probably not available. But I,m sure that any nitro R/C two stroke carb of similar size will work. One that comes to mind is the Moki 180/210 engine carb, a very high quality unit by the way.
The main problem with the Walbro is that the carb throat is too large, this. causes a very weak DELTA P in the venturi. The throat area of the O.S. carb is 62 pct. of the Walbro.
Would sure like to see pictures of your nitro-engine carb, 8B or whatever, installed on the Moki radial engine if you'd care to share?

Bill
Old 10-08-2018, 11:49 AM
  #4206  
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Advice please. I have a Moki 250. It will fit into the cowl of the Vailly Tempest 2 which is 1/5th scale.

Is is this a practical combination?

D G.
Old 10-08-2018, 01:31 PM
  #4207  
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If anyone can show me a better combination I would be very surprised.

m
Old 10-09-2018, 12:12 AM
  #4208  
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Thanks , Mick. I was just wondering if it might be rather small.

Most of the other kits for the 250 seem to be 1:4.5 or larger so I suspected the Tempest may just be a little small for what is a very powerful and heavy (mine is electric start) engine.

I have the Vailly kit so work will begin!

DG.
Old 10-12-2018, 07:59 AM
  #4209  
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Help please: I have a Moki S180 with the blue ignition unit, the engine was running but when I went to restart it there were no green lights on the ignition unit. I tested that there was power going to the unit, is it faulty?
Many thanks
John
Old 10-29-2018, 08:42 PM
  #4210  
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Having similar issues John, blue unit, ran ok then flashing green led goes out when prop flipped then nothing?

m
Old 10-29-2018, 10:52 PM
  #4211  
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Hi Mick
I have bitten the bullet and bought a Rainbow-Tronic's unit, I am keeping my fingers crossed, I believe my original unit hasn't been working properly for sometime.
John
Old 10-30-2018, 10:36 AM
  #4212  
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Default Looking for Tubulator

Hey guys. I'm looking to see if anyone out there has a kunkel turbulator they bought for there 215 or 250 that is not being used. Vogelsang does not have any in stock. So if you have one sitting around that you do not have a use for please drop me a line. [email protected]
Thanks

Last edited by TSHARK203; 10-30-2018 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Added title
Old 11-02-2018, 04:49 PM
  #4213  
kork
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Can someone please help me with the size tank needed for a Moki 180cc in a Meister jug please.
64ounces fits fine as well as a 32 ounce.
What are most getting for flying time hauling the mail with the 32's?
Thanks

Last edited by kork; 11-02-2018 at 04:51 PM.
Old 11-02-2018, 07:15 PM
  #4214  
Remaking
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64oz!! You could fly for an hour! I have 50oz in all my Moki250's and could fly for 20-30 minutes with 1/4-1/3 fuel left.
Old 11-02-2018, 11:42 PM
  #4215  
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I've got a 1 liter tank (about 32 oz) in a meister p47 with a moki 180 - you will get a good 6 min flight with half a tank of reserve
Old 11-03-2018, 02:15 AM
  #4216  
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Thanks guys, I realized the larger Fuji bottle is 50 ounces instead of 64 like I thought.
I will probably stick the 32 in it then.
Im looking for a good 8 minute flight is all.
Old 11-04-2018, 09:18 AM
  #4217  
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:43 AM
  #4218  
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Hopefully I am in the correct form . I need some help identifying a Moki 5 cylinder radial that came with a Bipe that I recently purchased. It is stamped 250415. I guessing that it's a 250 and the 415 is a serial. I purchase this and several other giant scales from a lady who's husband has passed. I'm new to Moki and intend on following this form. I have a lot to learn and more questions to come.
Old 11-19-2018, 05:37 AM
  #4219  
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Michael at AMR got back to me and confirmed that I am working with a 250 and that there are no user manual as mention on this form.
Old 11-20-2018, 07:18 PM
  #4220  
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Default electric fuel pump

Well I was getting frustrated with the amount of flipping the prop to get the 250 primed. Raised the fuel tank, installed a pump and now happy chappy. Pump on, ign on, full choke 3-4 flips motor fires, choke off 3-4 flips and motor running fine.
Thanks to all help and advice on this thread.
tmac48.

Sorry wrong photo.old pic with DA 150.




Last edited by tmac48; 11-20-2018 at 07:24 PM.
Old 11-23-2018, 02:17 AM
  #4221  
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Hi Guys, I am looking to squeeze a Moki 250 into a Warbird I am working on. I have a spec sheet for the 250 that indicates the diameter is 285mm or 11.22 inches. What I need to know is what is a real number for the inside diameter of a cowl, allowing for rocker arms to move & the barest minimum of clearance?

Thanks in advance,

Mick
Old 01-06-2019, 08:50 AM
  #4222  
Eulboyington
 
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Default MOKI Radial general maintenance

Hi Guys,

If you want to see my guys in action (and with photos) about a MOKI S250 radial maintenance, please go to my Professional FaceBook webpage :

https://www.facebook.com/ModelismeMicromoteursService/
Hope this help you if you want to work on your lovely radial engine !

Happy New Year 2019 for you and your Families

Olivier
Old 02-10-2019, 02:31 PM
  #4223  
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Guys, I need a little help. I am mounting an old 215 MOKI to the firewall of a 41% Pitts Model 12 biplane. My current question is about how best to control the choke on the MOKI. As you are aware, the choke is about flush with the rear of the mounting bell, so very near the firewall. It appears the control rod (with ball link) needs to exit to the rear of the engine through the large hole in the firewall? I'd prefer to open and close the choke manually without a servo, but not sure I know how best to install all the linkage. Can some of you experienced MOKI users show or state how best to do this. The engine is covered with a round cowl, so I'd need the pushrod for actuation must be outside the cowl, or maybe inside the cockpit area. The cockpit area is covered with a canopy, so something under the fuse would likely be best?

Thanks,
Larry Fitcfh
Old 02-10-2019, 03:51 PM
  #4224  
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Originally Posted by LRFitch
Guys, I need a little help. I am mounting an old 215 MOKI to the firewall of a 41% Pitts Model 12 biplane. My current question is about how best to control the choke on the MOKI. As you are aware, the choke is about flush with the rear of the mounting bell, so very near the firewall. It appears the control rod (with ball link) needs to exit to the rear of the engine through the large hole in the firewall? I'd prefer to open and close the choke manually without a servo, but not sure I know how best to install all the linkage. Can some of you experienced MOKI users show or state how best to do this. The engine is covered with a round cowl, so I'd need the pushrod for actuation must be outside the cowl, or maybe inside the cockpit area. The cockpit area is covered with a canopy, so something under the fuse would likely be best?

Thanks,
Larry Fitcfh
Larry,

I extended the choke arm about 1 inch so the ball link and 4-40 rod is just aft of the mounting ring. I put a coupling on the end of the rod so that a 2nd rod could be screwed into the rod to remove the cowl. I chose to exit the top left of the cowl. Choke open was down and flush with the cowl. To choke - pull up the rod. Hope this helps.

Regards - J Tab
Old 02-10-2019, 05:50 PM
  #4225  
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Originally Posted by LRFitch
Guys, I need a little help. I am mounting an old 215 MOKI to the firewall of a 41% Pitts Model 12 biplane. My current question is about how best to control the choke on the MOKI. As you are aware, the choke is about flush with the rear of the mounting bell, so very near the firewall. It appears the control rod (with ball link) needs to exit to the rear of the engine through the large hole in the firewall? I'd prefer to open and close the choke manually without a servo, but not sure I know how best to install all the linkage. Can some of you experienced MOKI users show or state how best to do this. The engine is covered with a round cowl, so I'd need the pushrod for actuation must be outside the cowl, or maybe inside the cockpit area. The cockpit area is covered with a canopy, so something under the fuse would likely be best?

Thanks,
Larry Fitcfh

yeah same as above, come straight out the back of the firewall about an inch or so and use a 90 degrees bell crank and come out the side of the plane. We use the dubro bell cranks for throttles on gas boats aswell and are very reliable.


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