Props4ever

For last 2 years i have been working on my major Super Connie project, now i'm at the stage of being burned out from it as it's still not complete yet. In meantime while i took a break off from it, i just happened to get this plane today as sort of a trade. It's partially built but still needs some areas to be built still. I'd say 3/4 of fuselage is already done except for couple for areas that are made poorly those have to be re looked at. Wing is 85% built, yet some flight controls still needs to be built and glued ie: Flaps

I haven't built a warbird in looong time and Corsairs are one of my favorites among other WWII fighters. I went looking for certain Corsair that would appeal to me but most are navy blue in color as how most people would build them. I want to do something different and have that one of kind, unique warbird in my fleet.

Well it's not in military colors anymore and seems to be highly modified also, It's Reno racer Super Corsair and i will be replicating my Corsair after it. Below are the pictures of the one i chose to replicate. I hope its ok for me to do this thread as part of warbirds criteria..

I encourage others to submit their ideas as well, but please submit only replies which directly deal the subject of this thread. Many of us subscribe to threads like this, and do not want to be annoyed with meaningless chatter, Thank you

Props4ever

Here are pictures of what i will be starting with.

I would appreciate all the help i can get in terms of documentation and building techniques from more experienced warbird builders on here. I want to add retracts to it, now i don't want to go all brand new, i'll live with used ones in good condition also. I would like to know if anyone have pictures of the cockpit of this Reno racer Corsair, i see it's canopy is very different and more like P-51 Mustangs or P-47 Bubble backs on it. I also noticed that spine of that particular Corsair is more like tubicular type vs razor back type, so i will have to modify back of my model to resemble it by cutting off razor back part of it and adding top round formers, stingers and sheeting to it.

Props4ever

I have started to do the conversion behind the cockpit area.

Started with drawing a flat straight line from former F9 to F7 where cockpit base sides are. I did this by looking at the pictures of this Reno Racer Super Corsair#57. Then i started to cut the sheeting on that line while making sure formers under it don't get cut. After the similar cuts were made on both sides, i detached the skin sheeting from former F10, F9, F8 and to the back of F7.

This separation gave me bit of space to reshape the formers, though i had to cut top part of former F8 at this point in order for fuselage to curve into round to be blended with other side.
I had to draw new more curved shapes on the formers in order to make new curve on the top of the rear fuselage. Razor saw was used to cut the formers into new curves and then i had to sand these areas to smooth them. Once this was done, i applied bit of water on the outer side of sheeting so it could be reshaped and be easily re attached to the formers.

Interestingly i had to reattach part of F8 former that i had cut off earlier but at lower level, i did this so i could attach new spruce stingers between former F9 and F8 on the top part. This i did to keep sheeting straight or it was starting to curve between the formers. Now that stingers are higher in level to then where outer skin should be but it will be sanded down while i will maintain constant curve on the top of the fuselage.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Nice subject, and a very beautiful Corsair. Here's a few more pics for encouragement & documentation:

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

A little history here:
http://www.airrace.com/CorsairStatusList2.html
Drawings here:
http://warbirdaeropress.com/articles.../TaichiNew.htm (scroll down)

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Actually Race 57 is a relatively stock F2G Super Corsair. I've had the pleasure of watching Bob Oddegard perform in this airplane and it is spectacular. Good luck with your model and I'll be watching your progress.

Chad Veich

Free Bird

What color is #57 Red or Orange? I've never seen the plane in person, and in some pics it looks red, and others it looks orange.

FB

Props4ever

Thanks guys for encouragement, history and drawings of this bird. I didn't knew F2G was also a production variant of Vought Corsairs, i twas under impression as it was modified version for the races only.

Will keep you guys posted with update on this project.

Cheers,
Sammy

Props4ever

Does any one have idea what would be good canopy that i could use on this conversion and of what size and type of aircraft ie: 60sz or 90sz

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

here is a pic of my 60 size Top flight P-47 bubble canopy, your model looks like a 60 size when looking at the shot of your hand on the model,the P-47 does look pretty close in shape to the race plane's.
I was doing my pre-maiden engine run in this afternoon, so I snaped this pic a few min. ago hope it helps

Adonis

I made a pretty scale 1/8 F2G canopy for the Royal Corsair, I think it should work on the TF. I have an extra sitting on the shelf right now.

Luke

Here it is on the Royal fuselage and a white plastic version so that you can see some of the detail.

Props4ever

Look as i have a winner here, yes Luke i'm sire it would work on my conversion also.
Pm me the details on what you may want for the spare one.

Bigtim,

Yep it's 60sz Top Flite Corsair. You P-47 look different then most as being bubble back vs razor backs. Wish you best of luck on maiden, let us know how it went..

Props4ever

Here is more update on the conversion process. Finally new rear fuselage took its shape as you can see in the pictures. I used 3/32 sheeting cut accordingly to the required shapes and then glues on the previous skin sheeting and internal formers. Once i had sheeting done, i took the fuselage out side and started sanding it into right shape. I think it turned out pretty good. I will have to use some filler when time comes for final sanding as who ever started building this model, didn't seems to had much of building skills.

I am also posting picture of firewall also, it doesn't seems to be straight as suppose to be, i can see wavy curves on it and few attachment areas. Plus do you guys think stock doubled firewall is good enough or should i change it to 1/4" ply as i am planning to get either 91sz or 108sz 2 stoker for this one as it's racer and modified originally to accept Wright R4360 engine!.

Props4ever

Here are firewall pictures.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

the basic fire wall should be OK but stronger isn't a bad idea, I am using a OS120 4st.
what I did was to use tri stock epoxied to the corners behind the fire wall and at a couple of critical connections to the fuse.
as for the angle of the fire wall there should be a little right thrust angle incorporated into it, all TF gold editions have it you can see it in the photo facing the engine there should be a slight lean to the left.

Props4ever

Tim,

It does have right thrust angle on it, but if you look at the picture closely that i posted of top view of firewall you will see other slight bend/wavy angles also. I am wondering about those vs right thrust angle. If i should pull off this firewall and make new one or if it's livable...

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

LOL I hadn't even looked at the pics when I posted, you hadn't loaded them yet, now that I did,it does have a bit of a twist to it.
if it were mine I think I would fix it just because I am a little A-retentive about my models it probably wouldn't do anything adverse but the straiter the better especially if your going to fly it fast.

Props4ever

HA HA HA, hey i had hard time uploading those pictures, attachment management feature crashed on me 4 times before i could get them loaded, was frustrating but oh well...

yep it does have those twists alright and i would like to get more opinions on that situation before i take present stock FW of the structure!.

It took bit of time to get first part of the fin made as i had to scratch built it, so here it is. Now i know how new fuselages section is in relation to fin. Looks god to me so far, what do you guys think?

I will be making rudder, stab, elevator and rest of the rear lower fuselage base and tailcone from scratch also.



Edit: I didn't used right phrase about new fin and new fuselage modification, so corrected it.

Props4ever

Here is the side profile drawings of number #57. What do you guys think of the rear fuselage mod compared to these drawings.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Props, Looking good .

F2G's had a taller rudder than an F4U. It's hard to see from your pictures, if you have made arrangments for that. Good luck with your build. I love fast planes.

Kelly

Props4ever

Thanks Kelly for kind words, your observation is dead on!, yes they did increased the height of the whole vertical stabilizer on F2G vs F4U. Since i didn't noticed this mod, i will now work on incorporating it on forward fin section i built few hours ago. Good timing Kelly, Thanks

TimexSammy

Props4ever

Is it my eyes or this beast does have 2 rudders!!, look that this picture closely as it seems as smaller secondary is pushed to right and main rudder is in straight position!!

TFF

It does have two rudders. the lower one is really a trim tab like device, that is hooked to the flaps I think, so the pilot does not have to kick right rudder on TO and landing as much with that big engine up front. I have seen the real one fly and the one white blade has a strobe effect so the prop looks like it is slowly turning. It also looks like it has one blade a bit too.

Props4ever

So in this case, what to do on a model?. Should model be equipped with 2 functional rudders and if so, then how can they function in relation to each other and also in relation of trim rudder to engagement of the flaps of the model. Currently i am extending forward fin that i made by adding more structure to it at the bottom of the fin. I am increasing the height by 1-1/4" or should it be bit more?. I'm just going by pictures and drawing i posted above.

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Torque will not be near the issue on your model that it is on the full size F2G. I would keep it simple (and light) and make the rudder and sub-rudder function as a single unit.