ProScaleRc

Hi JL1,

I don't know why you are turing this into a debate. I never said it wasn't yellow in Europe (and I have that photo in your link); I stated he changed to red in Europe, then added invasion stripes and at one stage added a white stripe on the tail (but no date).... that's all.

I have a book that states he flew a A-51B in Asia, just before being re-assigned to Europe. The book states that the b's never scored a kill in Asia because they were re-assigned England within weeks. It states his squadren joined the 9th who had just received the new P-51c's . I also own a Mustang video showing Howard standing on his left wing with the meatball kill marks being painted on, as the narrator talks about P-51's being tested Asia. And finally, I own Roar of the Tiger and I might be wrong, but I can't see where is states "His first experience with the 51B was in the fall of 1943 in England". The book does state though "he first flew bomber escorts in England in the fall of 1943".

As mentioned war records are sometimes inaccurate, and some comments online or in a book need to be taken with a grain of salt, and who know's you very well maybe correct.. but meh, this is just hobby! All I can say is I'm basing mine off the photos and books I own; whether is is right or wrong, it doesn't mater... what maters is I'm enjoying the build and have enough documentation to enter a scale competition. Peace!

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

Proscale, read pages 191 through 195 for Major Howards comments on the P-51B.
If you are interested, get a copy of "America's Hundred-Thousand which has a rather complete chronology of P-51 production and deployment. You will find that there might have been some A-36's or 51A's in India or Burma but production B's were not shipped from North American until August of 1943, well after Maj. Howard had left Asia.
Another book with lots of 354th info is "The Pioneer Mustang Group" which is 400 plus pages of photo's and text about the groups history. There is also an appendix that discusses colors and markings. It is a very nice book with more information than a person can use in one lifetime..
I'm outa here, enjoy your model

ProScaleRc

Will look into it. Thanks for the info JL1. [8D]


Have the day off today, so I will post some more pics tonight.

ProScaleRc

Got the tail on today. I used some spruce inside the tail and followed this through to the empennage. I used 30min epoxy, but also used some spot 5min so I wouldn't have to worry about any shift during curing.

I have test fitted the razorback and will install this tonight.

IL2windhawk

Great work so far! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished result.

I have Leo's razorback and I am very impressed with the quality, and his service. Money well spent. Leo - would you say that the same process for flush-mounting the cowl (as you outlined above) should be used for the razorback?

Also - I'd love to see a photo of the Malcolm hood.

I'll be watching this thread with much interest! I want to build a 357th bird, probably Old Crow or Hurry Home Honey.

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Steve,

As I stated above, "My recommendation would be to glass the fuse first and trim the edge, then bond on the cowl and the razorback. Filling the seam without the overlap will be easier. Putty can just extend to whichever side is lower. You will have a hard surface to sand against with the glassed balsa versus just balsa alone. Most of the putty is sanded off so weight is not an issue. Just my recommendation and the way I plan to do my next one."

I continue to watch this thread with great interest myself. Great project!

Leo

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Hey James!

Before you bond that Razorback on you need to pay some attention to your pushrods. Everything there needs to be pulled out and you have to re-route some new tubes that are up higher to match the new stab location. It is a lot easier to do it now while the fuse is open then after you close it up. Also notice that you don't want to locate the front of the elevator tubes as they did on the kit. They are mirror images of each other which requires you to reverse one servo. Not cool. It is better to locate both tubes on the same side of the servos. I had to use a servo reverser on my TF ARF that I built. You can see this in the install picture. The two outboard servos are the elevators. I won't do that on my ARC. Leo

ProScaleRc

Thanks for pointing that out Leo. I've been a bad boy and have not really read your instruction sheet. (I never read instructions. lol)

I will look at that tonight and order the new pushrod tubes tomorrow.

PS: May I ask, did you need to add weight to the nose of your ARC? If not, should I rear mount my servos?

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Rear mount everything! I have nothing but an engine in front of the wing and I still had to mount my 2 RX battery packs behind the wing in order to get the balance. No lead needed. This is a nose heavy bird. Leo

ProScaleRc

Leo: Thanks for the tip. I will have a look at the best way to rear mount without showing an servo body. If I can't hide the servos with easy access, I will simply go for the standard installation.



IL2windhawk: I left my camera at work, so I will take a photo of the Malcolm Hood tonight and post it.

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Hold up here! I mis-understood what you meant when you said rear mount servos. Don't put them in the tail. Just move them back as far as you can in the main compartment. Plan for stuff to be aft on the whole radio installation and you should be fine. Don't do that AeroBat thing by sticking servos in the tail. That's just not right for a plane like this. Leo

ProScaleRc

Hi Leo, I know exactly what you mean.

I haven't had any down-time to work on the B. The few hours I've had to build I've used up rebuilding my 25% DPM Super Cub and finishing off 1/9 ME-163 PSS. I purchased some new push rod tubes yesterday, so I'll hopefully get them in this week.

Next is to fix the razorback, brill the engine mount holes and then send her off for glassing. Although I have a good understanding of glassing, I'm getting it professionally done because I want it heat cured. Curing glass in a heated room reduces resin weight and sets stronger, with more flexibility. I'll keep you all posted.

ProScaleRc

Hey groovers,

I'd dropped this project for a while due to work taking up 99% of my life, plus I spent some time building a couple of other smaller models. Life's settled back down now so I'm ready to get back into it. [8D]

I just ordered some extra servos and a receiver from Desert Aircraft, so once they arrive I'll resume. I kinda got a bit carried away with the servos and I'm now running JR DS6305's throughout, except the flaps which will run 25kg JR DS8911's. I know this is over-kill, but you only live once.

I'm looking forward to the day I fly this baby.

Warbird Man

My Feedback: (95)

Keep us posted.

I just recently picked up a half started "B" version kit and plan on doing some of the same cowl modifications. Not sure of a scheme yet. I'm thinking either 352nd or 361st.

ProScaleRc

Well after a few months of being time-poor I just spent the morning playing catch up.

All the push-rod guides have been relocated to account for the raised elevator.

The razorback is now attached with 30min epoxy and fuselage wall along the cockpit has also been raised.

I have installed an Aerotech dash/turtle deck. I had to place this slightly aft of the scale position due to the need to fit the retract air canister and also give enough room for the Inzpan instrument panel. It still looks good, so I’m not going to cry over a few inches difference from the real thing.

Next project is the mount the engine and cowl so I can send the whole airframe to get glassed. Hopefully won’t take me 2 months to start on it. LOL

ProScaleRc

I cut out the exhaust outlets on the weekend. I made sure there was plenty of room for engine vibration.

That's it for now; next step is to send it off to get glassed. The fun stuff starts after that, can't wait!

ProScaleRc

I have to say the world works in mysterious ways. I sold this model uncompleted on Ebay a few months ago. I had it for so long, but simply did not have the time to work on it. When I sold it I regretted the sale and wished I could buy it back. Last night the guy who bought it called me asking if I knew anyone who wanted to buy it because he'd lost his job and needed money urgently. I immediately put my hand up and offered to buy it back for the same price I sold it. The great thing is the guy had glassed the entire model, saving me time and money. Can't wait to pick it up on the weekend. Woo Hoo!

ProScaleRc

Here's the last picture I took.

Beechbum

My Feedback: (11)

I hate sellers remorse. Glad you got it back. Was hoping to pick your brain on the cockpit kit. Specifically how wide is it, and how tall from top to the bottom of the main panel? I know you don't have it in hand, but thot I would get the question in when I saw your post.
Thanks, Richard

ProScaleRc

Hi Richard,

I'd be happy to pass on that info for you. If you don't hear from me within a week, just give me a little reminder.

Cheers, James

Props4ever

Hey James,

Very nice build n conversion you did, you are right "B model" Mustangs are fewer then "D models" but then B's have there own space and beauty.
I have bigger Nosen P51B that i've converted into Reno racer "The Believer", it's coming together nicely. I did its maiden flight 3 weeks ago n it flew beautifully.
Since u r using a ready made cockpit kit, i like to know the material of those seat belt harness, i want to make same for my model also. If u can post few close up pictures of it, that would be great.

Other thing i'm wondering is, if Kelso makes scale exhausts for Nosen mustangs also, i have Sach 4.2 70cc engine on mine but its lacking scale exhaust, just have dummy stacks sticking out from one side,
I still have to make newer ones for right side. Posting few pics of my P-51B for ya...

speedbrake

I hope you haven't sold the B again (?). If not, how are you doing? Still inching along or has it been put into the closet?

Speedbrake