drube

Thanks Chad!

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

You bet drube, my pleasure. By the way, I was able to locate one of the mechanical rotaters out of my H9 Hellcat. This one looks to be in decent condition. Their were some issues with the other one as I recall and I probably tossed it in the garbage. Anway, the one I have is all yours for the asking. Just send me an email at the addy below with your shipping info again and I'll send it along to you if you think you can use it.

[email protected]

drube

Email sent, Thanks again!

Alan

drube

Made a little progress tonight. I noticed that you really need to read ahead and study the pics on this kit, but this is my first TF kit.

drube

Question guys, I'm looking at where the wing tips join at the main spar,LE and TE. Just doesn't seem like it would be strong enough to stop the wing from snapping. Did you guys do anything to add strength?

dusel1

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Alan:

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When first attempting to join the wing ends (tip panel) with the center wing, I prematurely cut off the tabs on T-7.

In step 5 of the wing joining, I was unable to maintain an overall 11/16 inch spacing between all R-1 and T-1 connections. So, I got this gap as close as possible and at the same time used a red laser beam to align the main spars among all three units (center, left, and right wing parts) as well as using the 5/8 inch dihedral spacer block.

When I was satisfied with the spar alignment, I just beefed the joints with adequate epoxy.

Additionally, you might want to add verically-oriented grain shear webs between ribs, on-center between top and bottom spars. This will add minimal weight and should help overall strength of wing. See website below:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/math_and_science_of_model_aircraft/rc_aircraft_design/shear_webs_in_model_aircraft_wings.htm

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drube

Thanks for the link. My first thought was to add shear webs but was wondering why TF doesn't tell you to, I will though thanks. I also feel I should add something to the LE and TE joints.

dusel1

Yes to adding a little beef to the LE and TE joints.

I will too before sheeting the wing on my Corsair.

Everett

asafh1

need help
i am now sheeting the lower site of the body and i am having some problems [:@]
on the manual page 25 section 25
written :

"refer to the photo and plan.cut oversize lower fusalage sides from 3/32" x 4" x36" balsa sheets"
well , does the cutting shape is in th plane ? i didn't find it , can someone upload the picture or something ??? ( maybe i lost part of the plane ?)
or send my an email ? - [email protected]
thanks
asaf

RCGuy41

asafh1,

Hi, what you are suppose to do is to use the plans and trace the lower skins from the side view located on the plans. The reason to oversize so you can trim the balsa to the desired size before you glue the skins onto the lower fuse. Any further questions please feel free to ask.

beaulac1

test

RCGuy41

Test right back at ya. This thread is still alive and doing well and how are you doing today, well I hope.

dusel1

I have a question for anyone who can help:

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I bought a JR NES-791 Servo to activate a high-friction non-variable Robart air valve in order to operate Robart pneumatic retractable landing gear. I don't know if the purchase of this servo was overkill on my part, but that is what I thought I needed to do. The air valve appeared to have a lot of friction in it, so I figured that I would need a healthy servo to activate it.

The NES-791 servo has 260 oz. of effective torque to activate the air valve, but this NES-791 servo also has approximately 170 degrees of rotational arm travel, which is excessive in order to push and pull the air valve. I only need rotational travel equivalent to a 9/32-inch straight-line air valve travel.

Does anyone have explicit how-to instructions (with graphics) to internally modify the NES-791 servo to limit the rotational travel by approximately 50% or equivalent to 9/32-inch air valve travel.

Thanks,
Everett

RCGuy41

dusel1,

Hey Everett, all you need to do is get into your radio and set the servos travel, that's if you have one of the newer radios. I have a DX7 and I can limit the travel of each individual servo from 0% to 130% any other questions please feel free to ask. By the way check with your radios owners manuel to see how to adjust servo travel.

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

The 791 is a servo designed for mechanical retracts if I recall correctly, and the throw is not adjustable via the radio's EPA. You could probably make it work by using a short arm on the servo to limit the overall travel, but I think something may be wrong here as a mini servo should have plenty of poop to activate the robart valve(if there is nothing wrong with it).

Just my humble 2 cents, and sorry if I stated the obvious.

dusel1

Thanks for both replies, gentlemen.
I have an old Airtronics six-channel 72 MHz transmitter circa mid 1990s; I don't know if the transmitter has internal limit adjusts. It does have servo reversing though. When using the transmitter switch designed for retracts, the NES-791 rotates almost 180 degrees.

As a possible solution, I think I will lube my Robart air valve to free up some of the friction and use a 90-Degree rotation servo that came with my radio set and use a short servo arm as suggested.

Anybody need a JR NES-791 servo (Brand New and don't know what to do with it)? Guess I could use it on a miniature snow plow to turn the blade. Winter's coming, you know.

Everett.

Firepower R/C

My Feedback: (10)

how much? PM me if you want to.

dusel1

Mr. Firepower:

I paid $59.99 for the servo. Make me an offer. I'm located about 100 miles south of Bloomington in Edwardsville. I often take trips to Springfield, IL to visit with family. We could arrange for prisoner exchange some time. You get merchandise, I get cash.

Everett

RCGuy41

Everett,

Firepower is correct a small s-81 would have been fine to actuate a robarts air control valve. With that being said, a standard servo will still work and you can use a 4-40 wire with a threaded end and clevis, run a strait wire with a stop on one end of the wire with another stop on the wire. Your control arm will have another push rod stop without the set screw thus allowing the stop to run through the wire to engage each other stop and push the wire and actuate your aircontrol valve.

dusel1

Brad:
Thanks for the update. I'm making progress on your suggestions.
Everett

asafh1

question !!!

any one flying the TFGE F4U Corsair 60 with DLE20 engine ????
what do you think about that engine ????

thnaks
asaf

andernamen

My Feedback: (3)

I flew one with a RGCF 20cc motor. The only thing is that the stock muffler extends beyond the cowl and will require a huge hole. The plane balances without any problem and the engine has plenty of power. I would recommend this set up.

drube

I put the wing on hold until I get retracts so was able to make some progress on the fuse this eve. So far this has been a fun build but I may have made a boo boo.
The directions for the"Stab Base Support" it saysthey must sit flat against the building board.... Ididn't trim away enough so they would and nowI have about a 1.5 mm gap on both sides. Should I just trim the same amount off the tops of the supports? How bad will it fly and would it be noticeable?

I tried to get a decent pic of the gap.

Thanks

RCGuy41

drube,

After looking over your pics, in my opinnion, you should be fine just as long the gap is the same all the way around. If it isn't then you will need to sand the high side until both are the same hight.

drube

The gap is at the aft end but the same on both sidesso i'll take a little of the high side down as you said.

Thanks