drube

Made some more progress the last couple days. I need to fill gaps and fix a couple areas whereI dug my planer in too deep. The Fin isn't glued in.

RCGuy41

drube,

Looking very nice, keep up the good work. Are you going to use some hobby lite filler or something else, hobby lite once dry sands easy then put some thin CA onto the filler to hardend it, believe it or not it will still be sandable.

drube

Yes, i'll use some filler and sand it out. Didn't know about adding thin CA. Thanks

asafh1

drube , nice work !!![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
you are going to finish this kit fasssstttttttt
what about the retracts ????

drube

Still dont know what i'll be using as far as retracts go,so finishing the wing is on hold. Waiting to see the new Robart electrics when they come out. Also waiting to see if the Wingspans get sorted out.

wdelorme

Hello everyone,

wdelorme

wdelorme

This is my vertical stab. roughly sanded.

Hello everyone,
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wdelorme

Here is my rudder, horizontal stab and elevators.  The rudder has not been sanded yet and the other parts have been roughly sanded.  A friend of mine recommends using a sanding sealer to finish the sanding work.  Does anyone have any wisdom on that?

wdelorme

wdelorme

So here are my thoughts and plans. Friends at the fields tell me to just do the bare minimum and just enjoy the plane No flaps stationary gear and fly it until something happens to it. Others same no put your best work into it and detail it out. Well that is what my heart is telling me, but to some extent my bank account is telling my to do it in moderation. So here are my plans.

1. "Lado electric retracts" I would like to do a retractable tail wheel also but do not think I can duplicate an electric retract like Brads. Its a beauty though. Do I do doors or not or do they just recess into the wing?
2. Not sure about power yet 2 stroke or four stroke glow. I would like to go gas but I don't think we have gas that small yet?
3. Want to go full working flaps "a necessity."
4. Dual on the wing aileron servos with on the wing enclosed hatches like brads. Robart hings all around...
5. I'm having a multiple personality disorder on the covering I really want to fiberglass it, but I'm afraid to try it. I know it's going to make the plane tremendously heavy.
6. I really like the ordinance as well. Besides all of the AO's (those are the guys that fuse and hang bombs and missles on planes on the carrier) that I have know would not forgiven me if I left the bombs off the plane.
7. I am also torn on the colors. I like to be different.
8. I plan to do the cockpit kit and the engine kit. Also can't leave out the pilot who's going to fly the thing?

I start working on the wings tomorrow!

Wil

wdelorme

I don't understanding step #6 under the the manufacturing of the rudder where it says to make doublers from left over 3/32" sheet to reinforce the area where the torque rod protrudes into the rudder see plan for location. This is not clear to me for some reason.. Also it says there are pictures for proper shape of the rudder and I do not see pictures for that in the book either. I don't want to sound stupid, but it had diagrams for the shaping of the vertical and horizontal stabs. I think I can probably do it OK without pictures, but I would feel more comfortable with pictures or diagrams especially since the book mentioned following pictures. I don't see any. Any ideas on this?

RCGuy41

Wil,

First of all thanks for joining this build thread I always encourage anyone who wants and has a desire to share their build to post on this thread and yes there quite a few builders who will provide great information. As for your question about your rudder the doubler step #6 is talking about is adding extra basswood or light ply to add strength to the lower right and left side corners of the rudder. The rudder torque rod comes up from inside the fuselage a 90 degree bend is made in the rod at yopur desired location where you want the rod to enter the rudder. Please review the rolled plans around the tail section and it should give you where your torque rod will come out.

On another note, Wil, you can post a comment and a picture at the same time here is how you can go about it step by step;

1. Select reply on any comment
2. write your comment
3. If posting pictures select "Click here to upload images and files"
4. A popup window will appear, select the first browse button and select from which file you want to put load a picture from.
5. When you have added all your pictures select OK and wait for the system to tell you all pistures have been uploaded.
6. Once your pictures are loaded and you are happy with the write up just select OK at the bottom and your comment and pictures show up on the same post.
7. I've loaded my ugly mug

As for pictures I would recommend resizing all pictures to 640x480 before posting to RCU. Hey Wil, feel free to ask any and all questions you may have concerning your build.

wdelorme

I appreciate your help. When I get home this evening I will take a look at the rolled plans to get a better idea of the location.  Also thanks for the lesson on using RCU.  I will keep in touch.

Wil

RCGuy41

Wil,

If you are thinking about a gas motor 15 and 20 cc RC motor's are out on the market, check this out, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15380 a 15 or 20 cc motor will fit into the cowl of a 60 corsair.

I believe Lado retracts has gone out of business, you might want to look at Robarts website they are coming out with electrics also wingspan retracts and there is another site that deals with electric retracts but I don't remember their name. When working your flaps make sure you follow the directions to a tee and ask plenty of questions if you get stuck or confused. If you haven't ever used glass then I would recommend that you practice on a plane that's not going to fly. For this project .5 ounce glass shall be used and you can use any epoxy system that you desire, there's plenty to pick and choose from. I use the West system because I can buy it locally and has multiple applications other than RC. Well there was a site dedicated to RC bombs, drop tanks and release systems but their website is down pending renewal or cancelation, but wingspan models does sell bomb release systyems, check them out. You might want to check out tower hobbies and horizon hobby's websites you might be able to find other items of interest for your build.

wdelorme

Hey Brad,

The 15 gas engine looks like a possibilty and inexpensive also. I wonder what reliability is on it. As far as the Lado company I was on their website 2 days ago. Here is the URL for there website http://www.lado-tech.net/en/15-f4u-corsair. They also haveone USdistributor I don't remember the name of the hobby store. I had not heard of wingspan. I will have to check them out. I really want to try the fiberglass. I worked with it on a canoe and put carbon fiber kit on the running ends of the canoe and did repair work. The only problem with that, is it was to be cosmetically beautiful like I want this to be. so may be I will take my time with this and work on some objects before I apply it to my plane. Did you do rivets and panel outlines on yours? Also agree about the flaps, I'm not looking forward to that. I will check out the other sites you recommended thanks for step in to help me out. I really appreciate it. What did you do in the Navy?

Wil

RCGuy41

Wil,

This is what I did when glassing my bird; I used .5 ounce glass and the west system epoxy. When I started glassing it was the tail group first, verticle and horizontal surfaces only, I used a very small amount of epoxy, carefully spreading it evanly but very thinly across the balsa. I let the epoxy sit and soak into the balsa for a few minutes then taking my precut glass cloth I covered one side ensuring to cover most of the leading edge. The glass needs to soak up the remaining epoxy, if there is to much epoxy your glass will start to float an then creates epoxy bubbles in the glass. The only way to remove excess epoxy is to take a scraper and scrape off as much as possible then let dry for 24 hour's. Check your work after 8 hour's to ensure everything is going as planned, check for dry spots in the glass, which will look white, use very small amounts of epoxy on those affected areas and scrape off the excess. Once your resign starts to cure it will have a rubbery feel and will be tacky to the touch this is a good time to trim off your excess glass. Hope this helps and by the way I retired in 03 and was an AME the entire time I was on active duty.

wdelorme

Brad,

Thanks for the input on the glassing. It sounds pretty easy. I started out as an AMH and did search and rescue, then airborne mine countermeasures for a while. Couldn't make Chief so after applying for LDO half dozen times and the old LDO aviator program and failing to select for those, I applied for the MECP program and was selected for that and went to college at ODU here in Norfolk. I was then stationed with the Marines at Cherry Point and Camp Lejune. Then finally landed at Naval Medical Center Portsmouth. I have been there since 1997. I retired in 2003 after 28.5 years half in aviation and half in medicine. I really miss aviation. Thats why I do RC! Any just finish dinner and going up to my room to work on the wing.. Still working at Porstmout live in Chesapeake. So it would probably be easy to get the stuff for glassing. I don't think I live that far from you relatively speaking.

I watched a video last night on the glass that did exactly what you described. After he let it dry he sanded it lightly and said he took most of the resin off. Then he used a filler like bondo the red stuff and squeeged it all over the part that he was working on. Allowed it to dry once again and then sanded most of that away until it appeared to just fill cracks in the fiberglass. The he did a couple of coats of primer drying and sanding in between. It was wet sanding! It appeared to be a very smooth ready for top coat part. I'm not sure if that is the process you are explain. I think it is...

What squadrons were you in? Were you a fighter or attack guy?

Wil

wdelorme

Brad,

Check this Youtube out.[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRk97k73xFs[/youtube]

wdelorme

Brad,

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I don't mean to step by step you on this project, but in step four after I have epoxied the spar after sanding it. It says you may want to cut any holes required for your retracts at this time. "See instructions that came with your retracts." It’s talking about air lines etc. I think Right? Can I for go this for now until I get the Lado's? Or should I wait until I get them and just start working on the fuselage now? Your my resident expert. I just don't want it to be a pain after the fact you know. I remember safety wiring the nitrogen bottles in the sponson of SH-3 for the float bags. The access port in the sponson was big enough for one arm to get in there so you had to safety wire the shader valves with one arm. Man that was a freakin bear, and you did it blindly because you could not see what you were doing. Well I'm sure this would not be that bad.... Right?

Wil

wdelorme

Brad,

I have the Spar glued together noted in photo "A". I have joined the aft Leading edge pieces, marked the ribs, and glued the fed LE edge pieces and cut the unglued areas as can be seen in the photo "B". I glued the fwd traling edge pieces to the aft trailed edge pieces as shown in photo "C". I drill 3/16" inch holes where punch marks were located but they did not seem to line up when overlayed with the overlay piece but they were close. My problem is the Rib number on the wood do not correlated with the instructions in step 9. on page 10 gluing the die cut 1/16" plywood R-2B rib doublers to the die-cut 3/32" balsa R-2 ribs and glue the plywood R-3B rib doublers to the blasa R-3 assembly. non of these numbers correlated. I put them together because the pictures worked out as shown in my photo "D". What I cannot figure out is Step 10. on page 10. I photo'ed it in photo "E" where it is talking about gluing 1/8" R-4B sub ribs 1/8" r-4 ribs and r-5B sub ribs to the R-5 ribs and making sure there are left and right assemblies I photo graphed also the diecut pieces (Photo F) in the kit books inventory page for you as you can see there are (2) 4's, (2) 5's, (2) 6's, and the WD pieces. I' not sure what glues to what in this step, and I don't want to mess it up. I also photoed my actual pieces cut out for that step. They are the last two photos. It seems like I'm missing a one sheet of die cut 1/8" balsa. but I reinventoried and everything is accounted for. So I know that I just don't understanded the instructions here.

RCGuy41

Wil,

You have the correct ribs accounted for now you need the small rail doubler and the other as it is called for in step ten of the instructions. You are looking for R-4B and R-5B located within your diecut 1/8 inch light ply, all four pieces are short and will cover only the forward section of R-4 and R-5. Wil, after reviewing the manual you should be looking for a diecut part set with CRS6W08 X2 stamped on it, that plate has your needed parts to glue to R-4 and 5.

wdelorme

Bradley,

Got R-4B and R-5B located within the diecut 1/8 inch light ply as you said, and have them glued to the R-4 and R-5 respectively left and right versions. Got all left and right ribs glued with their respective doublers as we discussed. Also have R-1 through R-6 both sides equaling twelve ribs but not sure which are left and which are right. I have them all dry fitted, and wanted you to look it over before I glued anything. So they are all pictured below. Everything seems to be fitted outboard except R-2 which faces inboard. Is that correct? I looked at your previous pictures and from what I can asertain from them it is correct but it is hard for me to say.. So here is what I have thus far. I hope the rest is less confusing. So if you think its correct I will glue the ribs and cut the two inch blocks and start gluing the LE and TE etc.

Wil

RCGuy41

Hey Wil,

Everything looks good, keep up the good work.

wdelorme

Hey Bradley,

Made some progress tonight. Here is what I got done. OnceI round the spar area where the retracts fit into them (where the plywood is doublers is epoxied in)then the middle third of the wing will be done for this part of the wing build. Then I will be ready to start working on the other two wing thirds. When my retracts get here I can fit them (read below). Then I can get the rigging done for the ailerons and flaps, then skin the wings then do the cutouts for the retracts. Then the wings will be done (for this phase anyway). Then off to the fuse. Any pointers for this part? By the way my retracts are on back order.... Lado is not going to ship because the tail wheels are not in stock and will not be for some time. I am looking at "Wingspan" retracts nowwho have mains and tail wheels (there tail wheels are available in February retractible also)and they are out of Atlanta Georgia not France. Have you heard of them? Here is there site.... http://www.wingspanretracts.com/. Anyway let me know if you can think of anything. I'm leaving out the belcranks steps because I'm mounting two aileron servos out on the 2 wing thirds like you did recessed in wing compartments. Do you have any close up pictures of how you did the aileron servos? I'm sure it is simple.. I'm going to try to get one of the wing thirds done tonight "maybe!" both if I have time. What servo's did you use? Standard? I'm having fun...