ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
02-11-2010, 11:46 AM
#306
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Except for Joe Nall, WOD, Fond du lac and Indiana warbirds champaign, all others are decided on a 'what looks good' for that week end by 'how far' and 'how long the event'.
Except for Joe Nall, WOD, Fond du lac and Indiana warbirds champaign, all others are decided on a 'what looks good' for that week end by 'how far' and 'how long the event'.
02-11-2010, 11:50 AM
#307
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Cowls
With the G-62's as power, I had to butcher the cowls to get them to fit.
I was hoping not to have to cut a hole for the carb but not only did I need the hole for carb but also an extra notch for the H (high) needle adjustment. Since the H needle is a T, instead of the usual screw, the notch in the cowl had to be larger.
Also, it looks like I won't be able to add cowl flaps as the wing support plys re-enforce the fire wall so I don't want to remove those.
Well, at least I know the engine won't overheat!
With the G-62's as power, I had to butcher the cowls to get them to fit.
I was hoping not to have to cut a hole for the carb but not only did I need the hole for carb but also an extra notch for the H (high) needle adjustment. Since the H needle is a T, instead of the usual screw, the notch in the cowl had to be larger.
Also, it looks like I won't be able to add cowl flaps as the wing support plys re-enforce the fire wall so I don't want to remove those.
Well, at least I know the engine won't overheat!
02-11-2010, 12:11 PM
#308
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
That's a very large opening for the carburetor.
I suggest a blister, not only for cosmetic reasons - this makes the engine run smoother. Also you don't suck everything into that exposed hole...
Blisters are easy to make and look just fine - they blend in when you apply paint. A large cooking spoon there you have your mold
No big deal - it just looks sssssoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better...
These ones hide my spark plug caps[8D]
I suggest a blister, not only for cosmetic reasons - this makes the engine run smoother. Also you don't suck everything into that exposed hole...
Blisters are easy to make and look just fine - they blend in when you apply paint. A large cooking spoon there you have your mold
No big deal - it just looks sssssoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better...These ones hide my spark plug caps[8D]
02-11-2010, 10:33 PM
#310
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Cowls (cont)
I used G-pete's idea and made some air scoops over the carb holes.
Later versions did have turbocharger scoops on the bottom and anyone looking at them will figure that they are a scale item.
I used some 1/4" thick balsa for the front of the scoops and used a french curve to make a paper template and then cut out the 1/16" thick balsa for the sides of the scoops.
Some holes drilled into the cowl and balsa so the epoxy can make rivets to adhere better to the cowl plus some water and microwave to help curve the side balsa.
pic 1:
Paper templates to duplicate the holes in the first cowl for engine, muffler and carb.
pic 2/3:
Holes in front air scoop balsa and cowl so the epoxy can make rivets/
pic 4/5:
more epoxy to hold the side scoop balsa to the cowl.
I used G-pete's idea and made some air scoops over the carb holes.
Later versions did have turbocharger scoops on the bottom and anyone looking at them will figure that they are a scale item.
I used some 1/4" thick balsa for the front of the scoops and used a french curve to make a paper template and then cut out the 1/16" thick balsa for the sides of the scoops.
Some holes drilled into the cowl and balsa so the epoxy can make rivets to adhere better to the cowl plus some water and microwave to help curve the side balsa.
pic 1:
Paper templates to duplicate the holes in the first cowl for engine, muffler and carb.
pic 2/3:
Holes in front air scoop balsa and cowl so the epoxy can make rivets/
pic 4/5:
more epoxy to hold the side scoop balsa to the cowl.
02-12-2010, 12:19 PM
#311
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Check out this web on car model scenes.
Not airplanes but may give some good ideas for detailing (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!).
One of the last pictures shows materials used in the scene.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2479674...th/2346008881/
Detail descriptions of scenes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2479674...242338/detail/
Looks like this is the web site where he purchases his vehicles:
(looks like about $150 each)
http://estore.websitepros.com/1319711/Detail.bok?no=103
Not airplanes but may give some good ideas for detailing (that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!).
One of the last pictures shows materials used in the scene.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2479674...th/2346008881/
Detail descriptions of scenes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2479674...242338/detail/
Looks like this is the web site where he purchases his vehicles:
(looks like about $150 each)
http://estore.websitepros.com/1319711/Detail.bok?no=103
02-12-2010, 06:16 PM
#313
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Cowls (cont)
I used 10X32 button head bolts and blind nuts to hold the cowls to the booms.
I used these large bolts since there are only four hard points per cowl.
I also used some rubber washers from ACE for a 'buffer' between the cowl and bolt heads.
The blind nuts allows me to get very tight bolts on the cowls.
pic 1:
With no primer on the cowls, it was easy to mark/drill the locations for the bolt holes.
pic 2:
First the blind nuts were epoxied to some ply.
pic 3:
The ply with the blind nuts were then epoxied to the booms using the cowl bolts to hold them in place until the epoxy dried.
pic 4:
it seems like I usually have to tap the blind nuts after they are epoxied in place as the bolts usually have trouble threading to them (maybe forcing the spurs on the blind nuts into the ply distorts them).
pic 5/6:
Cowls done.
I bought some dummy radials but the cowls have to be tilted down in order to remove/install the cowls, thus, eliminating having the radials.
Next will be the rudders.
I used 10X32 button head bolts and blind nuts to hold the cowls to the booms.
I used these large bolts since there are only four hard points per cowl.
I also used some rubber washers from ACE for a 'buffer' between the cowl and bolt heads.
The blind nuts allows me to get very tight bolts on the cowls.
pic 1:
With no primer on the cowls, it was easy to mark/drill the locations for the bolt holes.
pic 2:
First the blind nuts were epoxied to some ply.
pic 3:
The ply with the blind nuts were then epoxied to the booms using the cowl bolts to hold them in place until the epoxy dried.
pic 4:
it seems like I usually have to tap the blind nuts after they are epoxied in place as the bolts usually have trouble threading to them (maybe forcing the spurs on the blind nuts into the ply distorts them).
pic 5/6:
Cowls done.
I bought some dummy radials but the cowls have to be tilted down in order to remove/install the cowls, thus, eliminating having the radials.
Next will be the rudders.
02-14-2010, 01:18 PM
#314
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Engine/Rudders
Engine:
A 3/8" X2"X4" ply was epoxied to the top of the fire wall.
I plan on putting the throttle/choke servos on this ply.
I also drilled/tapped the prop bolt for the 10X32 spinner nut.
pic 1:
3/8" thick ply epoxied to fire wall.
pic 2/3:
Drilled/tapped prop nut for spinner nut.
Rudders:
Layers of ply are sandwiched together for the hinge wire on the rudder.
Layers:
rudder,
1/64" thick ply
two 1/16" ply on each side of the hinge wire
another 1/64" thick ply
7/8"X5/8" balsa block
A very thin layer of epoxy was buttered onto each ply surface and then clamped around the hinge wire.
pic 4:
rudder hinge wire assembly parts.
pic 5:
the 1/16" thick ply sandwiches the hinge wire
pic 6/7:
The rudder hinge assembly epoxied and clamped.
pic 8:
Slots for the boom side hinge to fit into the rudder side and LE sanded to shape.
pic 9:
dry fit.
Engine:
A 3/8" X2"X4" ply was epoxied to the top of the fire wall.
I plan on putting the throttle/choke servos on this ply.
I also drilled/tapped the prop bolt for the 10X32 spinner nut.
pic 1:
3/8" thick ply epoxied to fire wall.
pic 2/3:
Drilled/tapped prop nut for spinner nut.
Rudders:
Layers of ply are sandwiched together for the hinge wire on the rudder.
Layers:
rudder,
1/64" thick ply
two 1/16" ply on each side of the hinge wire
another 1/64" thick ply
7/8"X5/8" balsa block
A very thin layer of epoxy was buttered onto each ply surface and then clamped around the hinge wire.
pic 4:
rudder hinge wire assembly parts.
pic 5:
the 1/16" thick ply sandwiches the hinge wire
pic 6/7:
The rudder hinge assembly epoxied and clamped.
pic 8:
Slots for the boom side hinge to fit into the rudder side and LE sanded to shape.
pic 9:
dry fit.
02-15-2010, 08:04 PM
#315
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Rudders (cont)
Not a whole lot done today.
Shoveled another 6" of snow (more than we usually get in three winters: where's that global warming!), cleaned up the work area, watched the Olympics and trimmed the other rudder to fit the boom.
Not a whole lot done today.
Shoveled another 6" of snow (more than we usually get in three winters: where's that global warming!), cleaned up the work area, watched the Olympics and trimmed the other rudder to fit the boom.
02-16-2010, 02:29 PM
#317
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Ram3500:
thanks.
We probably have the same video: it's 28 minutes long (if I ever buy a full size one, I'll know how to fly it!!).
With your 'reminder', I went and watched mine, also.
========================
Rudders (cont)
Nav lights (cont)
The white nav light goes just above the rudder trim tabs.
I epoxied some scrap balsa on the TE above the trim tabs, drilled them out and soldered some old extension wires to the LED's. As with the wing nav lights, I twisted some red/green wires together and 'fished' them through the booms and put a female extension on the back so I can easily remove the rudder for painting/maintenance.
I also epoxied some 1/8" thick aircraft ply on the rudders for the control horns.
pic 1/2:
I used an electricians 'fish tape' to pull the nav wires through the boom (since I forgot to do this before the planking!).
pic 3/4:
nav lights dry fitted and tested.
pic 5/6:
Red/green wire with servo extension plug as well as LED wire leads for ease of assembly.
Control horn hard mounts also epoxied on the inside of each rudder.
thanks.
We probably have the same video: it's 28 minutes long (if I ever buy a full size one, I'll know how to fly it!!).
With your 'reminder', I went and watched mine, also.
========================
Rudders (cont)
Nav lights (cont)
The white nav light goes just above the rudder trim tabs.
I epoxied some scrap balsa on the TE above the trim tabs, drilled them out and soldered some old extension wires to the LED's. As with the wing nav lights, I twisted some red/green wires together and 'fished' them through the booms and put a female extension on the back so I can easily remove the rudder for painting/maintenance.
I also epoxied some 1/8" thick aircraft ply on the rudders for the control horns.
pic 1/2:
I used an electricians 'fish tape' to pull the nav wires through the boom (since I forgot to do this before the planking!).
pic 3/4:
nav lights dry fitted and tested.
pic 5/6:
Red/green wire with servo extension plug as well as LED wire leads for ease of assembly.
Control horn hard mounts also epoxied on the inside of each rudder.
02-16-2010, 03:23 PM
#318
Join Date: May 2005
Location: high wycombe, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 82
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
http://picasaweb.google.com/7thfight...63150448181842
This link has an extraordinary collection of death and destruction on Iwojima with some good Black Widow shots
This link has an extraordinary collection of death and destruction on Iwojima with some good Black Widow shots
02-19-2010, 03:07 PM
#322
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Booms/rudders (cont)
I epoxied some balsa blocks at the bottom of the back end of the booms to complete the hinge covers but that didn't work as the balsa is too soft for such a thin edge.
The rest of the hinge covers had 'hanger rash' so I just cut some 1/64" thick ply to the correct shape and epoxied those to the booms. The results are much better plus the ply is more resistant to 'hanger rash'.
I also got one rudder covered in solartex.
Did the inside part first (control horn side) with about a 1/4" wrap around to the other side.
The 1/4" overhang was cut vertically about where each rib is plus about every 3/4" on the sharper top/bottom curves.
The nav light first had to have a small piece of solartex applied to it.
The hinge wire is put in from the bottom and I put a J bend on one end of the wire which will push into the bottom of the boom.
pic 1:
A futile attempt to use balsa for the hinge covers.
pic 2:
1/64" thick ply works much better!
pic 3:
Inside (control horn side) of the rudder covered first.
pic 4/5:
one side done with the 1/4" overlap to the other side.
After all edges were sealed, the iron shrunk the surface of the solartex to a nice tight, wrinkle free fit.
pic 6:
A small piece of solartex first applied to the nav light area.
pic 7:
Second side complete.
pic 8/9:
Dry fit rudder to the boom.
I epoxied some balsa blocks at the bottom of the back end of the booms to complete the hinge covers but that didn't work as the balsa is too soft for such a thin edge.
The rest of the hinge covers had 'hanger rash' so I just cut some 1/64" thick ply to the correct shape and epoxied those to the booms. The results are much better plus the ply is more resistant to 'hanger rash'.
I also got one rudder covered in solartex.
Did the inside part first (control horn side) with about a 1/4" wrap around to the other side.
The 1/4" overhang was cut vertically about where each rib is plus about every 3/4" on the sharper top/bottom curves.
The nav light first had to have a small piece of solartex applied to it.
The hinge wire is put in from the bottom and I put a J bend on one end of the wire which will push into the bottom of the boom.
pic 1:
A futile attempt to use balsa for the hinge covers.
pic 2:
1/64" thick ply works much better!
pic 3:
Inside (control horn side) of the rudder covered first.
pic 4/5:
one side done with the 1/4" overlap to the other side.
After all edges were sealed, the iron shrunk the surface of the solartex to a nice tight, wrinkle free fit.
pic 6:
A small piece of solartex first applied to the nav light area.
pic 7:
Second side complete.
pic 8/9:
Dry fit rudder to the boom.
02-19-2010, 06:21 PM
#323
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Rudders (cont)
Finished up covering the rudders.
pic 1:
On the last side, I really 'butchered up' laying the solartex as you can see all the wrinkles in it.
pic 2:
After applying the iron, all the wrinkles came out: shows how forgiving the solartex is.
pic 3:
one more step done!
Getting close to when I have to put on the primer!
Finished up covering the rudders.
pic 1:
On the last side, I really 'butchered up' laying the solartex as you can see all the wrinkles in it.
pic 2:
After applying the iron, all the wrinkles came out: shows how forgiving the solartex is.
pic 3:
one more step done!
Getting close to when I have to put on the primer!
03-02-2010, 03:24 PM
#324
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Main gear doors (cont)
Previously, I cut out the gear doors as one piece.
Next, I cut them in half using a combination of razor saw, cut off disk and xacto blade.
I wasted a lot of time on hinge selection.
Since I just about always use the robart large door hinges on previous builds, I assumed that I would also use them on these doors.
There was no room for the hinge by the gear mounts so I used some thick brass sheeting to make a hinge mount that would screw onto the gear mounts. After cutting it, geometry's stark facts told me that this wasn't going to work as the hinge pivot was way too far off center for the doors to function properly.
Next, I got out the Nelson's piano hinge and was going to use that as that probably is more prototype, anyway. Realizing that I would have to drill a lot of holes to put all those #0X3/16" screws into the hinge, plus it would be a lot of work removing them in the future, I finally realized that good ol' dubro nylon heavy duty hinges with a removable hinge pin was best.
pic 1:
A razor saw and cut off disk to cut along the outside to separate the two doors.
pic 2/3:
To separate the doors along the inside, an xacto blade finished the job.
pic 4:
Some balsa blocks sanded to the shape and epoxied on the ends of the doors to keep the ABS white blisters in proper position.
pic 5/6:
The balsa along the inside of the doors had to be trimmed so they could close over the wheels.
pic 7/8:
Initial idea of using a brass mount and robarts large door hinges were a futile effort!
pic 9:
The next idea to use nelson's piano hinges.
Previously, I cut out the gear doors as one piece.
Next, I cut them in half using a combination of razor saw, cut off disk and xacto blade.
I wasted a lot of time on hinge selection.
Since I just about always use the robart large door hinges on previous builds, I assumed that I would also use them on these doors.
There was no room for the hinge by the gear mounts so I used some thick brass sheeting to make a hinge mount that would screw onto the gear mounts. After cutting it, geometry's stark facts told me that this wasn't going to work as the hinge pivot was way too far off center for the doors to function properly.
Next, I got out the Nelson's piano hinge and was going to use that as that probably is more prototype, anyway. Realizing that I would have to drill a lot of holes to put all those #0X3/16" screws into the hinge, plus it would be a lot of work removing them in the future, I finally realized that good ol' dubro nylon heavy duty hinges with a removable hinge pin was best.
pic 1:
A razor saw and cut off disk to cut along the outside to separate the two doors.
pic 2/3:
To separate the doors along the inside, an xacto blade finished the job.
pic 4:
Some balsa blocks sanded to the shape and epoxied on the ends of the doors to keep the ABS white blisters in proper position.
pic 5/6:
The balsa along the inside of the doors had to be trimmed so they could close over the wheels.
pic 7/8:
Initial idea of using a brass mount and robarts large door hinges were a futile effort!
pic 9:
The next idea to use nelson's piano hinges.
03-02-2010, 03:27 PM
#325
RE: ZIROLI P-61 BLACK WIDOW BUILD
Main gear doors (cont)
pic 1-4:
Dubro heavy duty hinges dry fitted to the doors/fuse frame.
I may add a third hinge for extra support.
I used a cut off disk to cut just below the top surface by a 1/16" deep and at about a 30 degree angle to get the hinge pin at the surface between the door and fuse edge.
pic 5/6:
Both doors dry fitted.
pic 1-4:
Dubro heavy duty hinges dry fitted to the doors/fuse frame.
I may add a third hinge for extra support.
I used a cut off disk to cut just below the top surface by a 1/16" deep and at about a 30 degree angle to get the hinge pin at the surface between the door and fuse edge.
pic 5/6:
Both doors dry fitted.
