at-6 texan

but in this case is double dihedral ....right?

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Outer wings (cont)

Spoilers (cont)

pic 1-3:
A few pictures of the spoilers from the inside of the wing.
I brushed carpenters glue on the areas since, initially, I only CA'ed them.

Sheeting
I used carpenters glue on all sheeting.

pic 4:
Sheeting (3/32" thick) the bottom right wing from the main spar back to the TE.
Note jog in TE sheeting for aileron and flap edge.
You could sheet the entire area at once since the curve is very shallow.
I like to divide up the sheeting from the main spar, especially since I always leave gaps between the flaps and ailerons which makes measurements easier for me (I also sheet the flaps/ailerons separately)

pic 5/6:
Top of stab sheeted (3/32" thick).
Note sheeting overhangs the TE by a quarter inch as a hinge gap cover.
Before putting the sheeting on the wing, I sanded the back edge to get a taper where the elevator will meet this area, as it's easier to sand before gluing the sheeting onto the stab.

pic 7/8:
Sheeted the bottom right wing from the main spar to the LE.
Before adding the sheeting, the LE balsa was sanded to the contour of the ribs.

pic 9:
Ailerons and flaps sheeted. on the bottom right wing.
I ensured the TE of the flap and aileron were aligned with each other.
Paint sticks used to insure the TE is straight.
(later, some 3/32" thick ply will be CA'ed to the TE's of the ailerons/flaps)

pic 10:
Rib W-8 glued to the left wing.
As with the right wing, W-9 was kept perfectly vertical and straight since W-8 is glued in relation to it plus all alignments were checked and double checked as, mentioned before, this W-8 angle is critical.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Miscellaneous stuff

pic 1:
Shear webbing added to the stab's main spar.

pic 2/3:
Elevator hinges drilled for 1/16" hinge wire and epoxied into stab.

pic 4:
Epoxy added to the two outside ply ribs on the stab plus epoxy on the blind nuts and four gussets added.

pic 5:
Also, epoxy added to R-8 on right wing.

pic 6:
A notch cut into end of R-8 for a recess location for the spoilers hinge wire.

pic 7:
Some spars added to the left outer wing and started on its spoiler assembly.

kram-RCU

Awesome pix and details (as usual) Sam.

Your build threads are like Instruction Manuals on steroids! (and I have used them as such)

Have you ever considered selling them, or at least storing and cataloging them, in case RCU disappears, or something?

If I were about to start construction on a particular warbird you had chronicled, I would gladly pay $20-50 for an instructional DVD with pictures.

Since the plans and instructions on a lot of these kits are subject to a lot of interpretation (and error), those of us who build in relative isolation could really use the help.

I'm not saying you should quit yer day job, but it could be worth a little cash and a lot of street cred for you.


mt

at-6 texan

Yes i'm agreed which Kram telecomando!... this is an great opportunity for you always if you want!!.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Thanks for all the compliments, dudes.
I just do this for fun and rcuniverse better not go away!
I use this site a lot for reference as well as my own stuff, as it's easy to forget how you might have done a procedure and also what materials were used.
I've got all the pictures but not the instructions: it would be nice to have my own copy for 'just in case'!
Yeh, once in awhile, I do get 'diarrhea of the pen' but I like to put in extra details since some may not know 'a procedure': I figure it's best to 'show how' verses 'say' a procedure was done. Putting things in writing also better imprints the thought process into my brain as I'm a 'visual' dude and I'll remember better with pictures and words.
I've gotten' a lot more out of this than I've put into it so I'm happy.


=================

Outer wings (cont)

pic 1/2:
Well, I put the left wing on the center wing and I got 5 1/8" high: I'm off 1/8" from the right (close enough for me).
Lots of epoxy and probably the hardest part of the project just done: getting those wings aligned with each other.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Outer wings (cont)

Shear Webbing

pic 1/2:
Put 3/32" thick balsa along the main spar with the grain vertical using carpenters glue.
Presently, I left one rib span open for the spoiler servo as I'm not sure if I need the extra rib that is included for this purpose.
I put the wing over the shim on the table and weighted the wing to insure the 'washout' is kept in the wing.
That's 'it' for tonight.

at-6 texan

I want Sam parfitt how president!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Outer wings (cont)

spoilers (cont)
I started on the left wings spoiler getting the main hinge area completed.
I then switched over to the right wings spoiler and finished it up with the other three center hinges (total 5 hinges per spoiler).
Except of the two end hinges, the remaining center hinges needed adjustment: either moving the wire pin hole or sanding some off the spoiler end of the hinge.

pic 1:
After getting the hinge base CA'ed together, I used a razor saw to cut out a notch for the rotating side of the hinge and then cleaned out the area with an xacto blade. Fortunately, the CA usually didn't get that far in so the waste 'popped' out pretty easily.

pic 2:
Recess cut in R-8 for pulling out the hinge wire.

pic 3:
Razor saw to cut out the waste between the slot edges.
Since this part hangs out with not a lot of support, I'd cut one side until almost through and then cut the other side (allowing some stiffness in this area) and then just cut the last 1/16" on each side.

pic 4:
Middle hinges all needed either hole adjustment or spoiler side sanding.
SP-4 hinge needed the hole moved over about an 1/8".

pic 5:
I also sanded the area around the hole for 'rotation room' in the wire base area.

pic 6:
I would lay each hinge over the wire to spoiler to get the proper measurement.
In this case, a new hole in SP-3 would be too close to the original hole so I sanded off the spoiler end of the hinge.

pic 7:
I had to put a notch in the slot edge on the far side so the ball link can pass through this area.

pic 8/9:
Down/Up test.
Note notches in bottom of spoiler needed for rib clearance.
The spoilers won't be rising up this far so the notches won't be visible.

pic 10:
Front view of spoiler.

pic 11:
Three #0X3/8" screws in each hinge insures that nothing's coming apart!

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Spoilers (cont)

pic 1/2:
We don't want any twisted spoilers or they will bind.
Mine is about an 1/8" out of alignment: close enough!

pic 3:
I've got the hinges centered but I'm not sure they won't move over and scrape the sides of the slot.
Not sure if this is something of concern or just 'over kill' by putting some brass tubes that stick out on each side of the hinge!
Initially, I should have made the rotating hinge area only the width of the hinge instead of the entire slot width.

pic 4:
Mike the pilot came by to check out the construction!

pic 5/6:
The first snow fall of the year.
It looks like Christmas morning in the the movie 'Christmas Story' (love that movie: brings back all those memories that I almost forgot!).

at-6 texan

we have had a very abundant snowfall yesterday ... this is a rare event that is very difficult able to snow so much and to stay for more 'two-day ... these pictures were taken today

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Outer wings (cont)


pic 1:
I finished up the other spoiler on the left wing.

pic 2:
The rest of the spars and caps were applied to the bottom of the left wing.

pic 3:
I decided to add an extra set of rib doublers around the spoilers.
The plans call for one set (on the opposite side of the ribs) but since they are only 1/32" thick, negligible weight is added and 'it gives me peace of mind'!

pic 4:
Bottom sheeting added to the left wing.
Making that one large sheet of four pieces of balsa worked great as there was little waste after cutting the remaining piece for this wing.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Last pics for the night:

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Outer wings (cont)

NEVER USE A WARPED SPAR!
On the pictures in the previous post, I noticed the left wing looked like the LE was not straight.
Sure enough, the far left end moves forward by an 1/8".
One of the spars had a big time warp in it so I figured that I could use it last after all the other caps/spars were glued in: wrong.
Since I had the bottom spar pinned to the plans, the upper warped spar didn't affect the wing until I removed the wing from the plans and I didn't notice it until after I partly sheeted the bottom of the wing.
I clamped a long 'L' bracket to the LE from the spar and it straightened the LE but when I laid the wing over the plans, the end of the spar was still of by an 1/8" at the wing tip.
I noticed that the force of the clamp move the TE of the outside wing tip down a little (which removes some of the washout).
I was contemplating putting a slit down the center of the bottom wing sheeting to alleviate the warp but in the end, I figured the 1/8" at the tip of the wing is no big deal: I still have to put a 1/4" thick piece of balsa on the LE and I can taper that to remove any visual affects. I doubt if that 1/8" will affect it's flying characteristics.
I double checked the wing on the plans with the 3/8" riser and the washout is 'as it should be'.
Lesson learned: hopefully, I'll remember this a few years 'down the road'!

pic 1:
A futile attempt to clamp an 'L' bracket to straighten out the problem.

pic 2:
The gap in the middle with the 'L' bracket used as a straight edge.

pic 3:
The warp visible on the plans.

==========
other stuff:

pic 4:
I'm contemplating putting two servos in the stab for a more direct link versus running long 4' sullivan flexible rods.
Each servo is 1.9 oz but on a 45 lb plane and those heavy G-62's, this weight probably won't be noticed.

pic 5:
The spoilers will get some HS-311 (51 oz) servos and the ailerons get the HS-645's (133 oz).
The aileron servos will have to be farther out since the spoilers occupy the center section.

pic 6:
the rest of the sheeting added to the bottom of the left wing from the main spar to the LE.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Elevator

The two LE's for the elevator is badly warped (learned my lesson once!).
The elevator is not very thick 3/4" to 1/4" so there's a lot of room for warping.
A piece of wood cut in layers and re-glued will remove the warp so I cut both LE's in half and re-glued them, sandwiching a 1/16" thick balsa sheet.
Since the elevator gets a cloth covering, which probably will cause warping, I'm putting a 1/16" thick balsa in the center to stabilize the elevator.
An 'L' bracket is used to keep everything straight on the 'glue up'.

pic 1:
Center balsa sheet cut to fit the dimensions of the elevator.

pic 2:
Here's the severe warp in the two LE's.

pic 3:
I used my band saw to cut them in half.

pic 4:
A paint stick with sandpaper to clean up the band saw marks.

pic 5/6:
First LE glued back together with the center sheeting.

==========
Miscellaneous stuff:

pic 7:
1/32" X 3/16" wide ply CA'ed to the TE's of the flap and aileron.

pic 8:
Shear webbing added to the left wings main spar.
On 3/8" riser with weights over plans to insure washout is maintained.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Elevator (cont)

After getting the outside LE of the elevator glued to the center sheeting, I then cut off the center sheeting so I can build the hinge assembly around the 1/16" wire.
With so much force on a large bird, I'm encasing the wire with all plywood.
I first glued 1/64" thick ply to the outside LE.
The wire was then put in the center and 1/16" and 1/32" (wiggle room for wire) thick ply was sandwiched on each side of the wire and, finally, another layer of 1/64" thick ply glued as the final layer.
After this was dry, I then glued the center sheeting sandwiched by the inner LE to the hinge assembly.

pic 1:
The center sheet cut off the outer LE (3/8"X3/4")

pic 2:
1/64" thick ply glued to outer LE.

pic 3:
1/16" and 1/32" thick ply glued on each side of the 1/16" thick wire.

pic 4:
Finally, a 1/64" thick ply glued on top.

pic 5:
Wire now enclosed by all ply.

pic 6/7:
Center sheet and inner LE (1/4"X3/4") glued to hinge assembly.
Next, we can build up the ribs and rest of the elevator.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Elevator (cont)

Well, for the finish of this day, I was just going to check how the elevator was drying but decided to add a few ribs!
First, I CA'ed a 1/16" X 3/8" thick ply to the TE and then marked, in pencil, the rib and trim tab locations.
I next cut a bunch of 1/2 ribs 4 1/6" long X 1/16" at one end and 5/16" at the other end.
Some carpenters glue to hold them in.

pic 1:
CA'ed the 1/16" thick ply to the TE.

pic 2:
Cut 1/2 ribs.

pic 3-5:
A few ribs glued in place.
These pictures are helping me see mistakes.
This is the second one where I noticed the ribs aren't fully seated on the center sheeting in the last picture.
Some more weights and adjustment of the ribs fixed that.

Richard m Crapp

Hi Sam,
I just found your thread and have had a good look back through it, very enjoyable, It bought back a lot of memories.

I built one of the first Aeroworks kits and all the Robart gear as a test for a UK magazine. must have been 17 years ago.I think i bought it home from 95 Top Gun.
Pre-Digital so i do not have the construction pictures handy.

Mine Had G38 and was plenty of power. I think i would use 45's now if only because they are more compact.

Things i remember;
I wish i had used Spruce stringers through the canopy area and through the nose Dore rails. My nose did break off when the steering link broke.
I used the big Sulivan snakes down etch boom for the elevator, good decision.
I drilled out all the beach blocks for the nylon screws, saved a 1lb
The clear canopy parts, front , top and back need very firm fixing, screw them on. They get sucked off!
Do not mount the engine with cylinders in a vertical plane, vibration harmonics cause all sorts of things to fall off.
The ply hinges work well and last.
Make sure all those music wire retainers are secure.
The spoilers are wonderful. the ailerons were only there to reassure pilots. one of mine fell of in flight and i did not notice. Mine did twist in service so i would glass them for stability.
Find some light 6" wheels for the mains.
Mine came out at about 50lb.
When it was finished I never had the need to take the booms off, far to many connections anyway. It used to travel, even internationally with just the wings removed.

Mine was fully aerobatic with the 38, doing a schedule with the thing was a HUGE buzz.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Richard,
Thanks for all the good tips.
Since I've got the center fuse done, I'll put a double layer of FG cloth on the fuse.
Good point on the engines, I usually mount my engines at about 10 degrees off vertical.
I like removable canopies so I always use screws.
I still have to make a canopy frame out of FG cloth so that should also help.
I'm putting brakes on my wheels so 'light' is not an option.
It would make it lighter without all those block mounts but I keep thinking that if I 'prang' it, it would be much easier to repair as individual modules.
I'm also thinking that if I 'screw up' the incidence, I can easily loosen the bolts and glue in shims.
Twins normally need a 'ton' of wire so I'll probably go with two receivers.
thanks again.
My G-62's are overkill but I want to use 3-blades (even though the proto had 4-blades) plus a lot of the flyins that I go to have grass runways.

G-Pete

They fly still with ease at 50 pounds

No Y-‘s no hassle about long wires, and when one shuts down you have still half control over the airplane (at least a controlled crash).

As I said before there is no overpowered, keep in mind Col. Doolittle had to takeoff from the Carrier Hornet with his B-25’s. They were not short on power…

There are only underpowered airplanes.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Elevator (cont)

pic 1:
Ribs, fake trim tabs and end blocks done on the top side of the elevator.

pic 2/3:
Bottom side:
Shims put under the control horn ply to raise it to the surface of the elevator and epoxied.

pic 4:
I get extra life out of my xacto blades by putting them to the belt sander at about a 20 degree angle.

pic 5:
Bottom done.

pic 6:
TE nice and straight.

pic 7:
A 3/8" round over bit in the router table made quick work of rounding over the LE of the elevator.

pic 8/9:
Band saw used to cut some aluminum servo mounting 'L' brackets as the next construction phase will probably be putting in all the servos.

simple

My Feedback: (9)

I also just ran across the thread and I have to say WOW!!!

The speed at which you are moving on this project is incredible.. I took a year to get mine in the air and for the last year each time it fly's and survives I do a little more.

There is no replacement for the combination of pure power the 62's will provide you on take off and during flight. I used the 62 with Cunningham ignitions and really enjoy the easy start.

The 62 adds weight which translates to higher landing speeds, but when its in the air the combination sounds great and flys like a dart - straight and true. These were fighters and just short of prolonged inverted flight and intentional flat spins they will do what ever you ask.

I chose to model after the OD pacific versions and also chose to try and copy the real weathering effect the Pacific environment had on these.


Early build and test flights: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxVvd4GVZ_k

November flight: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fL2optziAL8

Post flight interview describing the build: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4uYb3p8obw

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

David,
Very impressive!
The flight looks great and thanks for showing/explaining the cool fuel locations, exhaust and center pod electronics.
I'm also going to have to put my fuel location on the top of the wings.
Did you make your exhaust ports and show some pictures of them?
Are those 22X10's Mejzlik?

==============
I'm glad that I can get back into RCU since I installed AVG anti-virus and after 33 problems found and deleted, I could no longer get into the web. To make a short story: I had to re-load windows and do all kinds of other 'stuff': it took a lot of time.
Back to building, though!

================
Servo's, servo's servo's!

Can't do any top sheeting of the wings or stab until all servos are installed.
I had to first make up about 20 aluminum servo 'L' brackets.
I drilled/tapped for the servos and will then use 4/40 button head screws to hold the servos to the brackets and hex head screws to hold the brackets to the ply mount.
I then used dubro's heavy duty ball link sockets and 4/40 threaded rod for all the flaps and ailerons (hitec hs-645's on all flaps and ailerons).
Everything is directly linked to a servo so each inner flap gets a servo plus each outer flap gets a servo plus ailerons.
Safety on the elevator as two servos also on the elevator.
Flaps and elevator will have the servos all mounted in the same orientation to eliminate servo reversers.
The spoilers get HS-311 servos using 2X56 threaded ball links and rod.
On one wing, I will be swapping spoiler hinge 2 and 3 so the ball link is aligned with the servo arm.

pic 1:
Aluminum 'L' brackets being set up to be drilled/tapped.
To insure uniformity of mounting, two sets of dividers were used to make 'tick' marks on the aluminum, then it was center punched and then drilled/tapped for 4/40 threads.
The holes are drilled so the servo will be slightly proud of the 'L' brackets base to isolate the servo from vibration.

pic 2:
Aluminum 'L' brackets being drilled/tapped.
Took awhile to do all these!

pic 3:
Got about 15 sets made up

pic 4:
Dubro 4-40 heavy duty ball links connected to flap control horns and servo arms.
The ailerons and elevator get robart heavy duty 3/4" long ball/socket control horns.

pic 5-8:
Did lots of work and only have them sitting where they still have to be mounted!
Eight servos in the wing and two in the stab.

LAWNDART65

Wow Great build!!! I see the pics of Ohio. I was born and raised in Wilminton, Ohio. Now I see them on 60 minutes. I miss Ohio except for the snow. Keep up the great work!! Really enjoying it. Merry Christmas John

simple

My Feedback: (9)

Sam,

I have flown it on two sets of props - Solo Prop 19" 4 blade with a 10" pitch and the 20-12 Mejzlik 3 blade. The performance is the same for both props systems, but the solo's are expensive so I usually just show them off and then fly the 20-12's. The 20" diameter is about as close to the ground as you want to get.

The exhaust were made by the owner of westcraft back in the day (may he rest in peace) - basically a pits style muffler with welded flex tubing exiting to the rear and then angled 90-up for the final exit - holes are cut in the top of the firewall and top of the nacelle.

I don't have any photos of the engines with the cowls off but I did find one showing the holes cut in the top of the nacelles early in the build.