RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Wow - that is a lot of weight ~ ! But I will keep that bolt idea i mind just in case. This stuka is just sheeted in balsa and the original builder scribed the panel lines and details by hand! It looks cool - truly unique craft at the local field. I have been told to not get the plane slow due to the tapered wingtips and tipstall. I will be doing test flights on a huge soccer field.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

More a wing loading thing that wing shape,,
Most of these midsize "scale outline" warbirds need to be flown right down to the wheels,, They will not float in like a trainer at all.
Best thing to so it take it up high and slow it down to get familiar with the stall speed,, It's better to learn this at 200 feet than 5-10

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

It will definately be unique and it might also possibly be the rarest plane currently flying at your field!
I have a great planes at-6 and have had cap 232's both of which are known for their tendencies to tip stall.
The key to avoiding tip stalls in the first place is to make a good long run with plenty of power and gradually lift off.
When landing make the final turn and keep the throttle around 1/2, then pull her back to 1/4 when the final turn is complete.
Fly her with 1/4 or slightly more throttle until it is 10 feet off the ground and right at the end of the runway. at this time pull the throttle all the way back and let her sink on in.
Try not to prolong the flare for more than a few feet.
I always do this and have never had a tip stall cost me a plane.

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

It would be nice if you would have someone video tape the maiden flight.

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Great advice.. I will do my best to get it on video with a descent videographer!

FNQFLYER

I am watching this thread with great interest. For the record I have NIB, a Marutaka Stuka, Stinson Reliant and a Beech Staggerwing. All are on my retirement list to build. A previous comment implied that these kits were not "scale" rather stand off scale. As far as I know most of the Marutaka kits at least the later ones were scale and if carefully built were capable of winning contests. I intend to build my to represent the ones (yet to choose) that Hans Rudel flew in Russia
I would be interested in knowing where the Fibre Glass cowls etc were sourced for the Stuka, I was contemplating building my own moulds etc bt if I can buy them all to the good. As for cannons etc have a look a the ESM site they make a Stuka of similar size I think if not there are some available through a link off the YT International site as I remember. I have a set for this kit that I bought either in Singapore or Hong Kong I forget which.
Any way all good stuff and keep up the information flow

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

If this was my "Scale outline" comment I think you misinterpreted what I meant. I meant, yes the have a true scale outlines, Airfoils are not scale, but what model is. These older Scale outline kits with their high wingloading were just more demanding of piloting skills, that was my point. Great contest capable kits,,, true

These guys have them for all your kits,

[link=http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/cowlkit.htm#ROYAL / MARUTAKA]http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/cowlkit.htm#ROYAL / MARUTAKA[/link]

Pippin

Nice Stuka, happy you.

I had one too years ago. Very nice flying plane. Mine had a 61 two stroke behind the prop and that was just enough.

FNQFLYER

All noted, the one conclusion I have come to though is that a lot of sanding and general weight reduction will be requiredwhen I build these kits. So much so I am actually thinking of duplicating some of the more complex bits and photo copying the rest for future events both planned and unplaned.
The engines recommended are for the 80's and early 90's so our modern engines of equivalent capacity should be more than adequate BTB I am thinking a Saito 90 or 115 will be my choice at this point.
Any way I have an ARF Swordfish, Fiesler Storch and a P47 to complete in the scale area before I get to these models and I just might do a warm up with either a Flightline Fleet Biplane of a TF Fury (to get the mind and fingers working) before attempting one of these kits. Not matter what they all will be long term propositions

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

Hows progres?

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Progress...

Well it has been a very busy summer with work - and I have worked on it here and there. I repaired the wing cracks and the flap damage. They all work now. The sheeting was seperating on the wing which is now smooth.
I installed and rigged the servos for the elevator and rudder. Installed the throttle servo and setup a flex linkage. I have a very low time saito 100 ready to install. I had it setup for measurements and adjustments. It looks like I will have to modify the rails very slightly.

All I need to do is make a plate for the wing and flaps servos and install them. I am considering a smaller than standard servo for this application since the amount of travel is short and the torque high. After that, reinforce the dowels and use larger wingbolts to secure the wing to fuselage. Secure the fuel tank and plumb. Make a rack for the battery to sit as far forward. Radio and wiring. I will fly it without the cowl first and I think I will either rebuild another cowl from the plans... or order a fiberglass one from fiberglass specialities.

Still need to set CG and test runs. Then it looks like test flights. Thanks for your interest. I really want to finish this season so if it flies well = I can clean it up and airbrush it.
Stay tuned.

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

ok just try to make sure you notify us before flight and possibly get a video of the maiden flight.
But most importantly please dont go tail heavy! you will definately want a slight nose down attitude when starting out.
I'm not sure how your experience with war birds goes so when making your landing make the final turn with nothing less then 1/2 throttle and after the turn cut it to 1/4 when ten feet from the ground idle her back and let her sink on in. Also make sure you have your speed upfor take off and a long straight run.

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

has it flown?

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Nothing to report... A growing family has postponed my projects. I also travel a lot for work that chews into my time. It is hanging in the garage ready to be completed. I have been tossing around the idea of converting it to electric... but then I change my mind. Decisions.

Right now time is short. I will post progress reports and pics as they come up.

Thanks for your interest and advise.

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Old thread refreshed. I am sorry that this project died out. Many life changes and various things create hobby setbacks. I am happy to say that the ol Stuka is happily hanging out ready to be completed. I have been finding more and more free time and such - been planning my attack on the plane. With glow fuel so expensive... and electric's powerful batteries and easy operations - - I am trying to determine what path to take. Maybe your input will help.

A: I still have the original G90 super tigre that was mounted on the engine rails.... It is rebuilt and basically new. I don't really care for the 2-cycle sound and it burns thru the fuel quicker.
B: I could use my Saito FA-100. Better sound and higher torque to swing bigger props... 3 bladed too. It is better on fuel as well. Con= it doesn't quite fit between the rails - it is a little wider causing the rails to slightly bow out. Since the rails are not that big (wide) I don't really want to trim them down and weaken structure. I will still need additional weight for balance somewhere in the nose.
C: Go electric and remove the fuel tank and use that space for batteries; components, any ballast etc. Run at least dual batteries (1 Rx; 1 motor) with good ESC/BEC. Cowling will be complete with no cutouts but will need to be easily removable for battery change. CON: bigger LIPO packs can get pricey and need several to have multiple sorties at the field. Also - the electric buzz just doesn't make a warbird...especially a Royal Stuka.

Throw me your thoughts and ideas. It's time to get this in the air.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

From one Club Saito member to another...You just gotta figure out a way to get that FA-100 in there

If the rails are tall enough you may be able to just taper the mounting edge enough to accomodate the curvature of the crankcase without compromising the strength.

So cool to see this thread resurrected...nice work there!

Lee;
Club Saito member #777

RC-CAKES

My Feedback: (4)

Hello all. I can't believe it has been so long since I started this thread and not much has happened. My two boys and family life have consumed my free time. When I do get some RC time - I try to head out to the field with my airworthy P-51 or Stearman.
As fate would have it - I fell and broke my ankle recently and can't work for a while…. SO……
I am re-engaging my efforts to the ol' stuka!
I figured the first place to start is the cowl and build a new one from the plans. Then I can see what is needed to reinforce the engine mounting for the Saito 100. The next would be what servos to use and how to mount in the wing for the pushrods. I am concerned about the bell crank assemblies that are buried behind the skin. I would like to inspect them for safety.

I will post pics as I go. Thank you for the interest and suggestions.
Now… if only I can get my wife to help me get the plane down from the garage… haha.